010 



.',v 



THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 



COPYRIGHT, 1890, 
BY THE BUTTERICK PUBLISHING COMPANY, [LIMITED]. 



METROPOLITAN 
CULTURE SERIES 



THE 



Pattern Cook-Book, 



iC--. 



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0-7^ 



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FIRST EDITION. 



NEW YORK: 
THE BUTTERICK PUBLISHING COMPANY, [LIMITED]. 

1890. 



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' Ah ! happy age when ladies learn to bake, 
And when kings' daughters know to knead a cake. 
Rebecca was esteem'd of comely hue, 
Yet not so nice her comeliness to keep 
But that she water for the camels drew." 

Thomas Fuller. 

' The turnpike road to people's hearts, I find, 
Lies through their mouths, or I mistake mankind." 

Dr. Wolcot. 



INTRODUCTION. 



A BOOK on cookery that is to be of genuine assistance 
alike to the experienced housewife and to the beginner 
must, in our opinion, possess two important quaUfica- 
tions ; in the first place, the dishes and preparations pre- 
sented in it must be such as may be readily made up 
with the facilities to be found in an ordinary household* 
and in the second place, all instructions and directions 
should be couched in language so simple that every one 
can comprehend them. It has been our earnest endeavor 
that in both these respects the present work shall excel. 

The recipes are eminently practical and easy to follow, 
all having been thoroughly and successfully tested by the 
author; and in their selection chief attention has been 
given to those unpretentious yet dainty and wholesome 
dishes that are so acceptable and appropriate upon the 
average family board. 

Among the admirable features of the book deserving 



INTRODUCTION. 

of special mention are an intelligent but not too 
lengthy dissertation on the Chemistry of Food ; a 
Cook's Time-Table ; a chapter on Cookery and Simple 
Remedies for the Sick ; a list of Menus for all occa- 
sions ; a Glossary of Terms used in Cooking ; a Table 
of Measurements ; helpful talks regarding " Small Econ- 
omies," "Things Worth Knowing," and "Miscella- 
neous Helps;" and lastly, a most admirably arranged 
index. 

When we add that the work is from the pen of one 
whose experience entitles her to a position of foremost 
authority in all matters pertaining to the culinary science, 
we have said all that is needful to commend the book 
fully and heartily to the world of w'omen as a complete 
and reliable guide in the selection, preparation and cook- 
ing of food. 

The Butterick Publishing Co. 

\Li7nited\ 



CONTENTS. 



PREFATORY. 

Difference between the Cookery of the Past and 
Present. — What Cookery is. — The Effect of Heat, 
Cold, Water, and Air in Cookery, . . 13 

THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 

Why we Eat. — What to Eat. — Whkn to Eat Cer- 
tain Foods, . . . . . . 17 

THE KITCHEN. 

Plans for the Room. — Care of Room and Utensils. — 
Utensils Needed. — List of Utensils, with Prices. 
— Cuts of some of the Utensils Needed, . . 25 

MARKETING. 

Se.'^sons for the Different Meats. — Beef, with Cut 
of Ox. — Veal, with Cut of Calf.— Mutton, with 
Cut of Sheep. — Lamb, with Cut of Lamb. — Veni- 
son, WITH Cut of Deer. — Pork, with Cut of Pig. — 
How to Select Poultry, Fish, Game, Eggs and 
Apples, ....... 47 

PLAIN DIRECTIONS. 

How to do Roasting. — Broiling.— Boiling. — Frying.— 
How TO Clarify Fat for Frying. — How to do Sau- 
TEiNG. — Braising. — Larding. — (with cut of larded 
meat.)— Boning and Steaming.— The Cook's Time 
Table for Roasting.— Broiling. — Baking, Etc., . 57 

7 



8 CONTENTS. 

SOUP. 
Soup for Stock. — Meat for Stock. — To Clear Stock. — 
To Season Stock. — Thickening for Stock. — Color- 
ing FOR Stock. — What may be Served in Soup. — 
Recipes for Soup with Stock. — Soup without 
Stock, with Recipes, .... 70 

FISH. 

Something about Fish. — To Clean. — To Skin. — Fillets 
OF Fish. — Fish Boiled. — Fish Baked, with Stuff- 
ings. — Fish Fried. — Fish Broiled. — Other Modes 
of Dressing. — Fish Remnants. — Shell-Fish. — Fish 
Sauces, ....... 96 

MEATS. 

Beef.— Uses for Cooked Beef. — Veal. — Mutton.— Lamb. 
—Pork. — Poultry and Game. — Recipes for the 
Preparation of the Several Kinds of Meats, . 142 

VEGETABLES. 

General Suggestions.— Proper Vegetables to Serve 
with the Different Me.\ts. — Recipes for the Prep- 
aration of Many Kinds of Vegetables, . . 239 

SALADS. 

Dressings. — Coloring for Salad Dressing. — Salad 

Combinations, ...... 292 

CHEESE DISHES. 

Various ways of Preparing Cheese.— How Rare-bits, 

Straws and other Dainties are Made, . . 308 

EGG DISHES. 
The Cooking of Eggs, Omelettes, Etc., . . • 3^^ 

BREAD. 

General Helps in Making.— Flour. — Yeast. — Sponge. — 
Kneading. — Moulding. — Baking. — R e c i p e s for 
Bread made with the Different Yeasts. — How to 
make Rolls, Buns, Rusk, Etc., .'.•,• 33^ 



CONTENTS. 9 

BREAKFAST DISHES, BISCUIT, GEMS, ETC. 
Recipes for Muffins. — Griddle Cakes. — Southern 
Cakes, as Corn Dodgers, Corn-pone, Etc. — Dough- 
nuts. — Fritters. — Cereals for Breakfast, . . 358 

PIES. 

Pastry. — Puff Paste. — How to Shape Paste.— Recipes 

for Many Kinds of Pie, . . . . .388 

PUDDINGS. 

(teneral Suggestions. — Recipes for Hot Puddings. — 
Recipes for Cold Puddings. — Sauces for Both Hot 
and Cold, ....... 413 

FROZEN DISHES. 

Ice-Cream of Various Kinds. — How to Make a Mousse- 

Souffl:^s — Ices — Sherbet — Frozen Fruits, Etc., . 461 

CUSTARD, CREAMS AND GELATINE JELLIES. 

Boiled Custard. — Baked Custard — Whipped Cream, 
with Ways of Using. — Jellies. — How to Clear. — 
How TO Remove from the Mould. — Recipes for 
Jellies, . . . . . . .481 

TARTS— COOKIES— MOLASSES CAKES, ETC. 

Fillings for Tarts. — Various Recipes for Cookies — 

Gingerbread, Etc., ..... 503 

CAKE. 

General Helps in Making. — Loaf-cake — Layer-cake. — 
Fillings for Layer-cake. — Frosting or Icing 
Cakes. — How to Decorate with Icing, . -5^5 

BEVERAGES. 

Remarks on Drinks. — Tea — Coffee — Cocoa — Summer 
Drinks. — The Service of Wine, with a Wine 
Menu, ....... 554 



lO CONTENTS. 

FRUIT— HOW TO SERVE IT. 

Various Kinds of Fruit. — How to Ice Fruit. — Cooked 

Fruits, ....... 566 

COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 

Suggestions for Preparing Various Dishes. — Teas — 
Broths — Gruels, Etc. — Drinks for the Sick. — 
Three Menus for an Invalid, .... 573 

MENUS. 

A Thanksgiving Dinner. — A Christmas Dinner. — 
Menus for a Day in Spring.— A Day in Summer. — A 
Day in Aufumn. — A Day in Winter. — Menus for a 
Lenten Day. — A Company Luncheon.— A Company 
Dinner. — Two Menus for Evening Card Parties, . 588 

MEASUREMENTS. 
Helpful Table for Housekeepers, . . • 596 

SMALL ECONOMIES. 

Various Ways ro Economize. — How to Use What is 

Saved, ....... sqG 

THINGS WORTH KNOWING. 

How TO DO Various Things not Commonly Understood. 
How to Make Various Kinds of Sugar. — How 
to Cream Butter. — How to Make Claret Vinegar. 
— How to Keep Food in the Ice Chest. — What 
I-iME Water is good for, .... 604 



LNDEX, . 617 



THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK, 



PREFATORY. 



" There's no want of meat, sir, 
Portly and curious viands are prepared 
To please all kinds of appetite." 

Massinger. 

''The destiny of nations depends on their diet," says 
Savarin, an opinion exactly coinciding with that of the 
ancient ballad-monger who asserted the infallibility of 
Britons so long as they were fed upon beef. Without 
exactly agreeing with either of these, time has proven 
that the civilization of a people or age may be ascer- 
tained by the style of its cookery — that gastronomic taste 
changes with the progress of a people. In the time of 
Henry VIII. a porpoise was esteemed a great delicacy. 
The seasoning of dishes was strong and pungent, saffron 
being a predominating flavoring for them. Shaks- 
pere speaks of this in " The Winter's Tale," when 
the clown, sent shopping for the sheep-shearing feast, 
says, — " I must have saffron to color the warden pies." 
The fee-favor of the city of Norwich was twenty-four her- 
ring-pies, each containing five herrings. They were car- 

13 



14 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

vied to court by the Lord of the Manor of Carleton in 
1629. These pies were seasoned with ginger, pepper, 
cinnamon, cloves, and " grains of Paradise," which were 
much used in those days of strong palates, being pun- 
gent and peppery. Looking back only to the last cent- 
ury, we arc confronted with the coarseness of our more 
recent ancestors' cookery. A gammon of bacon was 
to be boiled and a quantity of hay was tied up in a 
cloth and placed in the water during the cooking — for 
flavoring. A neck of lamb was fried with ale, which 
appears to have been freely used in cooking. Simplicity 
evidently was unknown, as may be gathered from a 
perusal of the " Cook's Dictionary," published a century 
ago. 

But we must not. forget, while criticising the cookery 
of the past, that every age and country have been laid 
under contribution to supply the materials with which 
the modern cook works, and that our tables are now sup- 
plied, thanks to the increased and rapid intercourse with 
other lands, from the larder of tlie world. How best to 
use and enjoy these gifts of Providence became at length 
a study, and a literature of cookery gradually arose. 
The first books were written by cooks or housewives, who 
lacked the power of language to convey their knowledge 
to others ; and like the " Cook's Dictionary," their books, 
ill-spelled and poorly expressed, were of no great use to 
the worker. But in the present day, as the art improves, 
books on the subject grow with it, and ladies vie, in 
writing them, with the professional cook. 

COOKING 

is the art of preparing food for the nourishment of the 



INTRODUCTION. 1 5 

human body. It is usually done by the direct applica- 
tion of heat, fruits and some of the vegetables eaten in 
their natural state having really been " cooked " by the 
sun. Milk and eggs, which are perfect food, would be 
nothing unless they came from the warm living animal. 
Foods dried or smoked have undergone a certain process 
of natural cooking, 

HEAT 

seems to create new flavors and to change the odor, 
taste and digestibility of nearly all articles of food. It 
opens the cells of starch in flour, rice and potatoes ; 
hardens the albumen in eggs, fish and meal ; softens the 
fibre of tough meat, hard vegetables and fruits ; and 
gives new flavor to tea, coffee, etc. 

COLD 

is also a most important factor in the preparation of 
food ; honey, ices, custards, salads, butter, gelatine 
dishes and many others being only fit to eat when cold. 

WATER 

or some other liquid, in connection with heat, is neces- 
sary in the many forms of cookery. Grains, dried fruit, 
and foods which have parted with nearly all their moist- 
ure in the ripening or drying process, need the addition 
of a large quantity of water in cooking to soften and 
swell the gluten and starch before they are fit for the 
table. 

AIR, 

or the free action of oxygen upon our food while cooking, 



1 6 THE PA TTERN CO OK- B O 0K\ 

develops certain flavors not otherwise obtainable ; thus. 
meat roasted or broiled has a much finer flavor than 
when boiled or fried. Food cooked before the fire or in 
the open air (as "camping-out" parties can testify) 
shows the advantages of this combined action of heat and 
air. Drying in the sun was one of the earliest modes of 
cookery. Then came roasting before the fire or broiling 
over the coals, and baking in hot ashes ; this last was the 
primitive oven. As the art of making kitchen utensils 
developed, other modes were adopted. Then to encono- 
mize heat, ovens were invented. The oven originally con- 
sisted of a covered dish set over or near the fire, having 
sometimes a double cover filled with coals. Afterwards 
stoves, which kept the fire and heat in a limited space, 
were introduced ; and so extensive are the improvements 
in them, that we now have conveniences with them for 
doing all forms of cooking with w^ood, coal, oil or gas. 



THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 

" Now, good digestion wait on appetite, 
And health on both." 

Shakspere. 

Why we eat, what to eat, and when to eat it, are 
questions which all should be able to answer. That a 
man may eat his fill and yet be hungry is a well-known 
fact. What then is the reason ? It is certainly not the 
quantity but the quality of food which satisfies ; and 
often, indeed, it not only happens that what is one man's 
meat is another's poison, but it is also true that what 
is food at one season of the year or time of life, or 
in one climate, may be poison at another season or 
age or in another climate. Dwellers in the tropics 
thrive on fruits upon which the inhabitants of the frigid 
zone would starve, while the blubber and oil that com- 
pletely nourish the Icelander would be fatal if eaten 
under the Equatorial sun. Even the same person 
requires fruit in the tropics and fat and oils in the frozen 
zones. The child requires food made up of different ele- 
ments from that needed by the adult, and the food of a 
laborer in the field must differ from that of the student, 
who takes little exercise, and whose strain of life is 
heavy on the nervous system. 

17 



1 8 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

It is particularly important that those who are forced 
to practice rigid economy should know just what will 
best supply the needs of a family and how the most nour- 
ishment may be had at a minimum of expense. We are 
told by scientists that an adult requires daily eight 
and a-quarter pounds of dry food and water, with air 
necessary for respiration. The same amount is thrown 
off as waste, or in other words eight and a-quarter 
pounds is used up as fuel to keep the machinery of life in 
motion, and if that fuel is not forthcoming, death ensues. 
The better the oil, the better the light ; and the more 
perfectly suited the food is to the wants of the system, 
the more vigorous will be the body, the more perfect the 
working of muscle, nerve and brain. 

Food is first masticated, then digested. When it 
reaches the stomach it is at once acted upon by the gas- 
tric juice, which pours from the walls of the stomach. 
Consequently, anything that dilutes this fluid tends to 
retard digestion, and sickness follows. Therefore, it is a 
mistake to drink freely during mastication, or until some 
little time has elapsed after eating to allow the stomach to 
do its work unhindered. As the juices of the stomach act 
only upon the surface of the food which passes into it, 
it can readily be seen why light bread is more whole- 
some than heavy bread. Light, spongy bread is acted 
upon in every part because the gastric juice is able to 
penetrajte it; and if all housewives knew this, they would 
not place the heavy, stale loaf on the table, *' to save it." 
Truly, many a mother gives a stone when asked by her 
child for bread ! 

Fats of all kinds do not digest in the stomach, but 
require the action of the bile and pancreatic juice 



THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 1 9 

to make them available as carbon for living combus- 
tion. Only as fat is combined with other food is it a 
benefit to the system, and the use of more than can be 
perfectly blended brings on indigestion and often exces- 
sive " heart-burning," to use a domestic term. 

Food has primarily two functions — the repair of muscu- 
lar waste, and the supply of the body with fuel to keep the 
temperature up to 98° ; and each is indispensable to health 
and strength. The chief part of our food goes to keep up 
this living warmth, and the balance, except small portions 
of mineral substances, such as sulphur and potash, goes 
to muscle and brain production. The secret of healthy 
food is to adapt it to the present needs of those for whom 
it is prepared. Foods are divided into three classes: 
the Nitrogeneous, in which nitrogen is the chief element, 
and which feed the muscles only ; the Non-nitrogeneous 
or Carbonaceous, which produce heat chiefly ; and those 
in which the first two are combined. 

It is known that the body requires four to five ounces 
of food for heat to one for muscle, and this is the key to 
preparing food in dift'erent climates and for different 
occupations and conditions. The whites of eggs (pure 
albumen) are richest in nitrogen or muscle-providing 
food. The lean parts of beef, mutton, venison and game 
contain nearly as great a percentage — about fifteen parts 
in one hundred. Grain, peas, beans and the curd of 
milk are also rich in nitrogen, and if muscles were all 
that were needed, these would be almost perfect food. 
But for one ounce that goes to muscle, five ounces must 
go to heat, and this means Carbon. 

Carbon, the heat producer, .comes chiefly from starch, 
of which the vegetable kingdom is largely composed, 



20 



THE FA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 



Sago, tapioca, arrow-root and corn starch are almost pure 
starch, and desserts made of them are easily digested and 
contribute largely of carbon, but do not feed the muscles, 
except they be combined with eggs, milk, etc., in cooking. 
Consequently^ children and working people who need to 
have their muscles fed should be fed on such things 
rather sparingly, unless muscle-making food has also 
been eaten. For the student, the aged and those who do 
not exercise much, these foods are most valuable, being 
easily digested and productive of warmth. 

The following table shows the proportion of starch in 
common grains, etc. 



Rice Flour, 


84 to 85 parts ii 


Indian Meal, 


77 '• 80 " " 


Oat 


70 " 80 " " 


Wheat Flour, 


39 ''11 " " 


Barley " 


67 " 70 " " 


Rye 


50 " 61 " 


Buckwheat, 


52 " " 


Peas and Beans, 


42 " 43 " ' 


Potatoes, 


13 "15 " " 



n 100. 



The variation in wheat flour is due to the diiTerent 
processes of grinding. The old method of making fine, 
white flour used only the middle of the grain and rejected 
the gluten, which is nitrogeneous and muscle-building ; 
hence the whitest flour was the least nourishing, contain- 
ing the largest percentage of starch. Modern grinding 
has, however, reversed this, and the "new process " flour 
contains the largest percentage of gluten. The old argu- 
ment that graham contained the largest proportion of 
muscle-making material no longer holds good, as analysis 



THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 21 

has proven that the '' new process "' flour and graham are 
ahnost identical in these elements. 

The substance of next importance in supplying carbon 
to the body is oil. The oils used are butter, lard and the 
fat of meat. They contain about 80 parts of carbon in 
100. Grains contain oils in varying quantities, as follows : 

Corn meal, 9 parts in 100. 
Oatmeal, 6 " " " 
Rye, 2>% " " " 

Wheat, I to 2 " " " 

This furnishes the best of reason why fats should be spar- 
ingly used in hot weather, the grains and vegetables 
supplying sufficient warmth-producing material. The 
excessive use of fats in cooking causes an over-secretion 
of bile, and this produces indigestion, sickness at the 
stomach, and often fevers of different kinds. Dyspeptics 
particularly should reject fried and oily foods. 

One condition of life calls for a daily diet of fat, and 
that is long exposure to excessive cold. When the 
breath freezes on the beard, the lungs require a large 
amount of heat to keep the body up to a normal tempera- 
ture. The best bread for cold weather is that containing 
the most oil. Corn bread ranks first, oatmeal second, rye 
third and wheat last. Woodmen, sailors, street-car driv^- 
ers, railroad men and others exposed to long, cold storms, 
especially when there is little opportunity for exercise, 
should eat freely of fat meat and butter. Let the cook 
remember, however, that fats are physic — and truly harm- 
ful if not blended with substances containing starch. An 
ounce of lard and a pound of flour thoroughly blended in 
wheat bread are digestible, but the same in corn meal 



22 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

already rich in oil would only be fit for an Icelander. 
The proper proportion of oil in food is found in milk, 
which contains 3_^ parts in loo. 

The next element which supplies carbon is sugar, 
which is found in all vegetables and largely in milk. 
Sugar contains 40 parts carbon and 60 parts water; con- 
sequently candy should be sparingly eaten in the warm 
months and children should be allowed little if any. 

There are other elements found in food, and while 
noticed only in small quantities, they are no less essential 
to health and comfort. One is phosphorus, which 
largely enters into the building up of brain and nerve 
waste. Phosphorus is found in eggs, fish, oysters, lob- 
sters, game, cheese and potatoes, and these should be 
freely eaten by the brain-w^orker. Another element that 
enters into body-building is sulphur, which is required 
for growth of hair, nails, bones and cartilage. Of this 
there is so much found in eggs that silver is darkened by 
contact with them. Curd of milk and. cheese are also 
rich in sulphur. Iron is also present in the blood and is 
found in most articles of food, being most abundant in 
the juice of beef, in eggs and in milk. Lime and salt are 
also needed for the body, the lime making bone, while salt 
aids digestion. Lime is found in all grains, in wheat 
and in milk. Nothing is more healthful for growmg 
children than bread and milk, as it supplies heat, muscle 
and bone material. 

Races develop largely in proportion to their adeptness 
in supplying heat and muscle producing food. The 
Scotch use oatmeal, rich in nitrogen ; the Irish endure a 
large amount of labor on cheap fare, potatoes, cabbage 
and milk largely entering into their daily food. The use 



THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 23 

of " Chemistry in Cooking," is to learn how to combine 
all the life essentials. With a meal that contains much 
nitrogen should be served vegetables and dessert that 
are rich in carbon, to make up the needed healthy food. 
For instance, the farmer's dinner of salt pork, cabbage 
and potatoes is about perfect for an outdoor laborer in 
cold weather, the cabbage giving the nitrogen and the 
pork the carbon. It is a proper dinner also from the 
fact that it takes four hours and a-half to digest, and, 2" 
an old farmer once said, " it stands by a man," although 
the why of the '' standing " had never entered into his 
education. Venison is about the easiest of digestion of 
all meats and contains fifteen parts of nitrogen, which is 
the same proportion as beef. Wheat bread does not con- 
tain muscle-producing material enough for a laboring 
man, and should be supplemented with lean meat ; conse- 
quently a sandwich made of rare roast beef and bread is 
most nourishing. 

Beans contain, next to meat, the most nitrogen and 
form a durable food for laborers, and this is the reason 
the inmates of our State prisons have beans served to 
them daily in the form of soup, made with fat pork, the 
fat supplying the carbon needed. Cabbage ranks next 
to beans in nitrogeneous qualities, and then come oats, 
wheat and barley. Milk, containing all the elements of 
body building, and eggs, rich in nitrogen, used together 
with rice and sugar, containing carbon, produce a most 
nutritious dish that is easy of digestion. Buttermilk is a 
healthful drink in summer as it is still rich in nutritive 
jiarts, and the acidity aids digestion. Eggs contain a 
large quantity of carbon and are, in consequence, good 
food for cold weather. Wheat bread alone will support 



24 THE FA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

life longer than any one food, except meat, the propor- 
tion of nitrogen to carbon — i to 5 — being nearly correct 
for the student and those not taking vigorous exercise. 
For active life, however, more nitrogen is needed, and 
lean meat should be used. 

Considering the requirements of the body and the ele- 
ments that make up food, a wholesome breakfast should 
consist of strength-giving and muscle-making food. 
Nothing is better than broiled beefsteak, which is most 
easily digested, especially by real workers. Eggs are 
nourishing but less stimulating and provide for the mus- 
cles. For heat, bread and cakes are to be preferred, and 
fruit with its mild acid aids digestion. If coffee is to be 
taken at all during the day, it should be drank in the 
morninoj, as it is stimulatino^, and the effect should have 
time to pass off before the hour for retiring comes. 

In summer less carbon should appear on the bill of fare, 
and blanc-manges, creams, berries and ripe fruits should 
be served for dessert. In giving a dinner the wise host- 
ess will consider well her company, their occupation, 
etc. A party of hunters or outdoor workers would require 
an abundance of meat, while persons of sedentary occu- 
pation would be better pleased with delicacies and noth- 
ings. A sleighing party will devour carbon, but persons 
almost fainting under a July sun long for cooling fruits 
and the leanest of meat. The time when food is given 
should decide the nature of the bill of fare — whether 
easy of digestion or not ; thus those starting upon a jour- 
ney should be given rare roast beef or beefsteak, which 
can be quickly disposed of by the stomach (thus prevent- 
ing possible loss by car sickness), rather than a fried 
pork-chop, that takes nearly five hours to digest. 



THE KITCHEN. 

" There is always work. 
And tools to work withal, for those who will." 

Lowell. 

It is almost impossible to give any except general sug- 
gestions as to the arrangement of the kitchen. 

If every housewife had the pleasure of planning this 
part of her house, a model kitchen might be fully drawn 
out ; but unfortunately the large percentage of our peo- 
ple live in rented houses, in which the kitchen has to be 
taken just as it is found, and endured among other incon- 
veniences. A few hints, however, for those about to 
build homes for themselves may be found helpful. 

The room should not be too large, 15x15 feet being a 
very good size. If larger, more tim.e will be required to 
keep it properly cleaned, and many more steps will be 
needed to accomplish the necessary work. The matter 
of ventilation should be given an important place in the 
planning of the kitchen, since the comfort of the entire 
household depends upon it. The odors from the cook- 
ing should not go through the house, and high and wide 
windows in the kitchen furnish the only means of pre- 
venting this. Good ventilation and plenty of light are 
indispensable, for there should be no dark corners to 

25 



26 THE FA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

tempt untidiness. The floor should be made of hard 
pine, maple or birch, and laid in three-inch strips, and 
a carpet should cover all the floor, except around the 
stove, where an oil-cloth will be found much neater. 
Many persons object to a carpet in the kitchen, but it is 
restful to tired feet and can be taken up and washed 
when soiled. 

About the room should be a wainscot of oiled pine 
wood, and none of the wood-work should be painted. 
The walls of the room are by many considered quite 
improperly finished unless paint is applied, but unless 
you are sure the painter understands just the kind of 
paint to use, paper them instead. Well painted walls are 
a continual satisfaction, for they can be easily cleaned ; 
but when poorly painted they are great burdens to the 
good housekeeper, inasmuch as no amount of cleaning 
cleans them. If paper is used, choose neither a light 
nor a dark tone, and have plenty of it left over to 
repair any disasters that may come to the walls. 
The usual objection to paper, that the steam from the 
cooking ruins it, will not hold good if the windows are 
lowered from the top a couple of inches throughout the 
day. Whitewash the ceiling, and have it re-whitened 
every spring at the usual cleaning time. 

Have a large sink, choosing one of iron rather than of 
slate, as dishes are more likely to be chipped and broken 
if a stone sink is used. The strainer in the sink should 
be fastened down permanently, as anything that will not 
run through the holes ought not to go into the drain pipe 
at all. A great temptation to raise the lid and let sedi- 
ment pass through is thus removed. Do not enclose the 
space under the sink, for such a closet will afford a 



THE KITCHEN. 2/ 

secure and inaccessible abiding-place for water bugs 
should they gain a foothold in the kitchen. Besides, if 
this be left open, the manner in which it is kept will 
furnish a reliable criterion of the neatness of the kitchen- 
maid. 

In many parts of the country what is known as the 
" dresser '' in the kitchen is not in use, the pantry giving 
space enough for dishes and utensils of all kinds. A 
dresser usually has two closets above and two below, with 
two deep drawers at the top of the lower closets. In the 
upper closets should be kept all the dishes necessary for 
use in the kitchen, and in the lower ones all pots, sauce- 
pans and other utensils of this kind. In one of the 
drawers should be the cooking knives and forks, larding 
needles, wooden spoons, can-opener, rolling-pin, etc. ; 
and in the other the jelly-bags, dish-towels, linen soup- 
strainer, fish cloths, a large extra piece of cheese-cloth 
that may be torn into convenient pieces as wanted, a ball 
of twine and all other necessary articles of this kind. It 
is a question whether a dresser is a good arrangement for 
dishes, as the doors of the upper closets are frequently 
left open by careless workers, so that the smoke from 
broiling and the steam from the cooking have a most 
untidy effect upon the dishes. It is very unwise to dis- 
pense with a pantry altogether and depend on one of 
these dressers. Have a pantry always, even if you are 
compelled to do away wnth the parlor of the house to 
make room for it. 

There should be a large table in the kitchen, or two, 
if there be room enough ; but if there is to be no sep- 
arate laundry and the stationary tubs are in the kitchen, 
the top of the tubs forms a very handy table for dishes. 



28 THE FA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

etc. A small table covered wiUi zinc and placed near the 
range is a most convenient addition to the kitchen furni- 
ture, as hot dessert, cake, pie, etc., can be placed on it to 
cool. There should also be a good-sized shelf or mantel, 
upon which the clock, match-safe, candle-sticks, etc., may 
be kept. 

Screen the windows and the door in sumirier, or 
swarms of flies will enter, rendering it impossible to keep 
the room clean and creating a personal annoyance that 
must be endured to be fully appreciated. 

In the pantry under the shelves should be built a long 
bin divided into compartments for holding wheat flour, 
corn meal, graham, etc. This is a most satisfactory 
arrangement, for often a space that is large enough for 
the purpose would be found entirely too small to contain 
a barrel of flour. 

CARE OF THE KITCHEN AND THE UTENSILS. 

" A place for everything, and everything in its place " 
is a motto to be followed in the kitchen more than in any 
other part of the house ; for there are so many utensils, 
dishes, etc., that confusion is certain to reign supreme 
unless order is the first thought all day and every day. 
But even if the worker is careful, there should be one 
day set apart for general cleaning and putting in order 
of everything pertaining to the room. The entire wood- 
work should be cleaned at least once a month, and 
around the tubs and wherever the strain of the work is 
the greatest it should be cleaned every week. 

The sink requires special attention. Wash it daily 
with soap and water, always giving a final rinse wilh 
scalding water. Set a regular time for this cleaning, just 



THE KITCHEN. 



29 



after the dinner work is out of the way being obviously 
the most convenient. The drain pipe of the sink should 
be carefully cleansed once every ten days with washing 
soda. To prepare a cleansing agent for this purpose, 
pour three quarts of boiling water on a pound of washing 
soda, and when the latter is dissolved, bottle for use. 
Pour a pint of this liquid down the drain-pipe when it 
needs purifying; the soda unites with the grease and 
keeps the pipe free from deposits. 

Tinware, granite-ware and frying pans will need fre- 
quent scouring, and nothing is of greater comfort in the 
kitchen for this work than a generous supply of Sapolio. 
Bristol brick may be used for this purpose, but scarcely 
with as admirable results for the labor expended. 
Woodenware that has been washed should never be dried 
before the fire, as the wood will warp and crack when 
thus exposed to the heat. Steel knives should be bright- 
ened with Sapolio. The refrigerator should be carefully 
cleansed throughout once a week and a wire run through 
the drain pipe to dislodge anything that may have 
dropped into it. It is very unwise to have this pipe con- 
nected with the sewer or the drain of the house, as such 
an arrangetnent offers a constant menace to the health of 
the household. The range or stove should be cleaned 
once a fortnight, all the flues being swept out, the top of 
the oven brushed oiT, and the stove pipe sharply tapped 
to loosen any soot that may have formed. 

Above all, the kitchen should be plentifully supplied 
wath towels. There should be three kinds : some of crash 
for the hands, which can be made to go over a roller ; 
some of soft crash for dishes and kitchen implements gen- 
erallv : and some of unbleached cotton for use about the 



30 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

range in lifiing hot utensils. Tliese cotton towels are 
much more convenient than the padded holders com- 
monly in use, as they can be easily washed, and the 
heated dishes can be handled much more safely with 
them. 

UTENSILS NEEDED. 

The young housekeeper will, we believe, gladly 
receive some advice in the matter of choosing the uten- 
sils needed to produce a well-furnished kitchen. In buy- 
ing tinware (and, indeed, any article for equipping 
this part of the house) it is economy to purchase the 
best in the beginning. It is a well-known fact to 
experienced housekeepers that American wares for the 
kitchen are not nearly so durable as English. Of 
course, the latter cost more here, but if, when furnishing 
the kitchen, a little more money be expended in this 
way, it will never be regretted, since the best wares last 
fully twice as long as those of poorer quality. A superior 
quality of tinware will last a life-time, while the cheap 
varieties will scarcely survive a year's usage. The best 
lin has a smooth and rather dull-looking surface and 
keeps its shape until worn out ; its surface will stand 
great heat without becoming rough, but when the poorer 
tin is thus exposed, the coating melts, producing a rough 
surface that is difficult to clean, and to which the food 
clings until it burns. The utensils should all be made 
of XX tin, and the bread and cake pans, when not made 
of iron, should be of the XXXX quality. 

The surface of the iron-ware for the kitchen becomes 
smoother with use, but iron utensils of poor quality are a 
great annoyance and can never be relied upon to attain 



THE KITCHEN. 3 [ 

this desired smoothness. Before iron-ware is used, it 
should be washed out and dried perfectly. The inside 
should then be rubbed with fat or oil that contains no 
salt, and be allowed to remain thus greased for six or 
eight hours before washing again. Place the utensil on 
the fire and heat it gradually, after which wash it 
thoroughly with soap and water and rub with a dry towel. 
This process will smooth the surface, if carefully done. 
Iron comes next to copper in the matter of retaining 
heat, although it is far below the latter metal in this 
respect. Copper utensils are not much used for two 
reasons — their weight and the danger of poisoning. Cop- 
per requires constant inspection and care and does not 
find favor in the eyes of housekeepers generally. It may 
be cleaned with sour milk and salt. 

Granite-ware is most commonly used nowadays, being 
preferred on account of its lightness and cleanliness ; 
and if its cost can only be brought to a more reasonable 
figure, it will eventually displace all other varieties of 
cooking utensils. In selecting this ware, if a piece does 
not seem firm in every part, or if there is a flaw in the 
enamel, reject it, for the granite will chip and crack. 
Granite-ware will not endure rough treatment, but with 
care, it will last a long time. 

Two lists of kitchen utensils are here given, each being- 
very complete in itself. One, which is called by the 
house supplying it the "one hundred dollar outfit," 
includes everything needed in the kitchen and is sold for 
one hundred dollars. The other is the " twenty-five dollar 
outfit," the cost for the articles furnished amounting to 
that sum. For those who cannot afford the costlier out- 
fit, the less expensive one will be found very complete. 



THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 



List No. I, 



Step Ladder $2. 

Clothes Horse i. 

" Line, 50 Yds i, 

o Doz. Clothes Pins 

Skirt Board 

Ironing Table 5, 

Zinc Top Kitchen Table 4, 

Dish Drainer 

Water Bucket 

Rolling Pin 

Potato Masher 

Vegetable Slicer 

Clothes Wringer 5' 

Wash Bench i. 

Cedar Wash Tub i. 



Wash Board 

Flour Bucket 

Salt Box 

Nest Boxes 

Coflfee Mill 

Wooden Spoons 

Soap Cup 

Oval Iron Boiler, Lined. 

Muffin Pan 

Roasting Pan 

Bread Pans 

Fry Pan 

Omelette Pan 

Garbage Can 

Tea Kettle 

Agate Cook Pot 



" Sauce-Pan i 

" Farina Boiler i 

" Pudding Pan 

" Colander 

" Coffee Pot I 

" Tea Pot 

Tin Pie Plates 

" Jelly Cake Plates 

Butter Kettle 

Basin. 

Turk's Head 

Wire Broiler 

Iron Spoons, assorted 

Wash Boiler, Copper Bottom.. . 2 

Toaster 

Radish Grater 

Chain Dish Cloth 

Croquette Mould 

Nutmeg Grater 

Set Skewers 

Flour Dredge 

Sugar " 

Pepper " 

Tin Cup 

Dish Pan 



$100.00. 

Graduated Measure $ 15 

Cake Turner 12 

Dipper 5 

Oyster Broiler , 50 

Egg Beater 25 

Egg Whip 6 

Skimmer 7 

Scoop 5 

Cake Cutter 3 

Tea Strainer 5 

Coffee Strainer 12 

Fish Boiler 2.85 

Waffle Iron i.oo 

Wire Vegetable Boiler 22 

Soap Stone Griddle i.oo 

Pudding Boiler 75 

Jelly Mould 50 

Melon Mould 55 

Soup Strainer, 85 

Dust Pan 20 

Dust Brush 40 

Bread Box 80 

Cake " 75 

Sugar Can 75 

Coffee Canister 18 

Tea " 15 

Spice Box 70 

Crumb Tray and Brush . . 60 

Japanned Trays i.io 

Mincing Knife 18 

Bread Knife 35 

Butcher Knife 20 

Set Sad Irons 1.40 

Polishing Iron 80 

Ice Pick 12 

Egg Poacher 25 

Hatchet 40 

Meat Saw 40 

Tack Claw 15 

Set Scales and Weights 1.65 

Stove Brush 35 

Package Stove blacking 5 

Dish Mop 12 

Steamer 50 

Oyster Fryer 1.25 

Cleaver 60 

Hanging Safe 4.00 

Set Table Mats 85 

Market Basket 80 

Clothes " 1.50 

Knife Box 40 

Meat Board 25 

Broom 25 

Coal Scuttle 50 

Coal Shovel 8 

Poker 5 

Paring Knife 10 

Family Nail Box 10 

Refrigerator i5-75 

$ 1 00.00 



THE KITCHEN. 



33 



List No. 

1 Wash Tub % 55 

I " " 70 

I " " 85 

I Wringer 2.25 

1 Wash Board 25 

25 Yds. Clothes Line 25 

3 Doz. " Pins 6 

2 Clothes Props 20 

I " Horse 75 

I Ironing Board 60 

I Step Ladder 90 

I Kitchen Table 1.25 

I Coffee Mill 60 

I RoUing-Pin 10 

I Potato-Masher 8 

I Pie Board 25 

I Radish Grater 8 

I Slaw Cutter 25 

I Meat Board 25 

1 Flour Bucket 30 

I Water " 20 

I Soap Cup 5 

t Wooden Spoon 5 

I Ash Sieve 20 

I Tea Kettle 70 

I Round Iron Boiler, Lined 66 

1 Oval " " 1.20 

I Round Sauce-Pan, " ..... 57 

I Coal Scuttle 30 

1 Roasting Pan 40 

I Broom 25 

I Chamois 20 

I Griddle 25 

1 Frying Pan 25 

1 Bread " 15 

I Waffle Iron 45 

I Tin Coffee-Pot 15 

I " Tea " 12 

I Tea Strainer '. 3 

I Coffee "■ 10 

I Scoop 4 

I Ladle 5 

I Skimmer 6 

I Spice Box 25 



$25.00, 

Coffee Canister $ 10 

Tea Canister 10 

Japanese Tray 12 

Crumb Brush and Tray 45 

Dust-Pan 9 

" Brush 20 

Bread Box 60 

Market Basket 60 

Pudding Pan 12 

Cake Cutter 3 

Wash Boiler 55 

Tin Kettle 9 

Dish-Pan 20 

Flour Sieve 15 

" Dredge 5 

Pepper Box 3 

Iron Fork 5 

" Spoon 6 

Scrub Brush 12 

Set Skewers 20 

Chain Dish Cloth 5 

Egg Whip 5 

Nutmeg Grater 3 

Apple Corer 5 

Butter Kettle 15 

Gem Pan 15 

Colander 18 

Broiler 20 

Toaster 5 

Tin Cup 4 

Pie Plates 10 

Basin 12 

Paring Knife 5 

Flat Irons 65 

Hatchet 40 

Mincing Knife 18 

Tack Claw 7 

Ice Pick 9 

Knives and Forks 60 

Can Opener 8 

Flat Iron-Stand 5 

Butcher Knife 20 

Bosom Board 25 

$25.00 



A dish-drainer is a great convenience In the kitchen. 
If the sink is too small to hold both the dish pan and 
the drainer, a dripping pan should be set under the 
drainer. A sink-rack made of slats of wood on which to 
place the dish-pan when in use is a necessity. 

The modern potato-masher is a great improvement on 
the old wooden pounder. The potatoes should be sea- 

3 



34 



THE PATTERN COOK-JWOK. 



soned after being put through the masher the first time ; 
they should then be re-heated and pressed through into the 





SINK-J^ACK. 



DISH-DRAINEK. 

serving-dish. They should not be smoothed nor patted 
down before being sent to table, as that 
would greatly diminish their lightness. The 
masher or strainer here illustrated is quite 
O inexpensive, costing only twenty-five cents ; 
and it can be used in many ways — for 
crushing berries, in powdering the yolks of eggs, etc., 
etc., the method of doing which is described further on. 

There are many dif- 
ferent kinds of vege- 
table cutters. They 
are made of tin, and 
a set of graded sizes 
and shapes can be 
purchased. They are 
very useful. The cups 
or ends of figures A 
and B are pressed into 
POTATO-MASHER. ^j-^g vegctablcs, and 

The cutter A will make 




then given a turn around. 



THE KITCHEN. 



35 



little potato balls one inch ni diameter, which are 
called potatoes ''^ la Farisienne'' when fried. The 
cutter shown at figure B will cut oblong forms. The 
cutters C, D, E and F may be used for cutting veg- 
etables that have been previously sliced for the pur- 



B 



& 



<— 



i" 



D 



-. O 



a 

^5 



O Q 




VEGETABLE CI TTEK'- 



pose and are intended for decorations or for soup. 
These cutters can also be used for cutting slices of 
bread to fry, the shapes resulting being very attractive 







DOUGHNUl' 



when served. There should also be biscuit cutters, one 
large and one small ; these will answer for ginger-snaps 
as well. Then a round and a fluted cook)^-cutter will be 
needed ; and if doughnuts are to be made, a double cut- 
ter will be found of great assistance. 



36 



THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 



Among the various knives needed in the kitchen, the 
French fluted knife will be found a great convenience. 
It cuts solid vegetables in a round, fluted shape. 



tbtmJ-— — ^ 



1 



d 



ID 



■KEiNCH FLUTED KiMH 



The French cook's knife is made of the best steel and 
is easily kept sharp. It is very useful for boning. It 
costs about eighty cents, but will, if properly used, last 
for years in constant service. 



^= 



^ 



FRENCH COOK'S KNIFE. 



This coffee-mill is one of the newest, and is easily 

regulated to grind coarse 
or fine, by means of a 
thumb-screw on the side. 
It is a little more expen- 
sive than the common mill, 
costing $1.75 ; but it is 
manipulated more easily. 
It can be held on the table 
while in use. 

The " bain-marie " pan 
is an open vessel to be 
filled with hot water and 




COFFEE MILL. 



placed on the back of the range ; several sauce-pans 
or cups with handles are fitted in, and are intended to 



THE KITCHEN. 



hold sauces, entrees and other dishes that must be 
served hot. The flavoring is not diminished when 
articles are kept hot in this way. 





MUFFIN-PAN. 



BAIN-MARIE 



lir "" A muffin-pan, for coolv- 

ing muffins or corn cakes, 
should be made of iron, 
and should be thoroughly heated before each using. 
There are different depths for these pans, and a shallow 
one is not advisable. 

A measuring cup is a most necessary 
article in the culinary department. Cups of 
this kind are graded in two ways — at the 
quarter cupfuls and at the eighths.. 

Oysters cannot be properly broiled with- 
out a separate utensil for the purpose. In the broiler 




MEA.SURING Cll', 




OYSTER-BROILER. 



here shown the wires are so close together that the 
oysters cannot slip into the fire. 



38 



THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK, 



The Dover egg-beater, than which no better is made, 
may seem a luxury to many who do not possess one, but 
as they cost but twenty-five cents, they are within the 




means of the most economical. The egg-whip here pic- 
tured is used simply to whisk the eggs to thin them, 



without beating them light. 




FISH-KETTLE, WITH RACK. 



This kettle is used for boil- 
ing fish. It is half filled 
with water, and the fish is 
laid on the raick and sub- 
merged. The rack can be 
removed when the fish is 
done, all danger of break- 
ing the latter being thus 
avoided. The fish should be drained a moment over a 
pan or kettle before being removed from the rack. 

The waffle-iron finds a place in nearly every kitchen. 
It should not be on a frame that lifts it too high from the 
fire, and it should fit the stove, if possible, otherwise it 
will be a source of great annoyance. 

Through the winter griddle-cakes are eaten in every 
household, so the choice of the griddle on which to frv 



THE KITCHEN. 



39 



them should be given some thought. The soap-stone 
griddle does not require oiling ; there is, consequently, 
no odor or smoke from cooking the cakes. There are, 
however, two objections to this griddle ; it takes a very 




WAFFLE-IKC) 



long time to heat through, and the cakes are not as 
tender as when fried on an iron griddle. Many prefer 
the little crispness that the oiling of the griddle imparts 
to the cakes. In buying an iron griddle, chose one of 
medium thickness. 




MEAT-REST. 



A meat-rest should be included among the utensils. 
Such a rest can be purchased in any size to fit the roast- 
ing pan. Roasting should not be done without a rack. 
This raises the meat sufficiently from the bottom of the 
pan to cook it evenly, and, by keeping ,the meat out of 



40 



THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 



the juice and gravy, prevents it being boiled instead of 
roasted. 

A braising-pan is here represented. The food to be 
braised is put into the lower pan and the lid covered with 
hot coals. Recipes for brais- 
ing are given in the body of 
the book. 

Bread pans should not be 
too large. They should be 
^ made of Russia iron and will 
last a lifetime. Roasting pans 
are also best when made of 
this iron. The first cost is nearly twice as great as that 
of the ordinary iron pan, but the durability of this metal 
more than pays for the extra expense and it is much 
lighter to handle than the common variety. 




BRAISING-PAN. 



WIRE BASKET, 




The frying- 
pan, with basket 
for frying oys- 
ters, croquettes, 
etc., is a very 
useful article. 
The support for the basket can be taken out, thus leav- 
ing an ordinary frying-pan. A pan of this kind, nine 
inches in diameter, costs one dollar. A basket made 
of wire may also be obtained for frying in this way, but 



FRYING-PAN. 



THE KITCHEN. 



41 



the work is then done in a kettle of fat without the use of 
a frying-pan. Frying-pans are best made of iron. The 
granite-ware pans are not satisfactory, as food is very 
likely to burn in them, unless a large amount of fat is 
used, which is not always possible or economical. 

There should also be a short- 
handled frying-pan that can be put 
in the oven if necessary, and an- 
other with a long handle. 



FRYING-PAN. 




:^•I^•G-PAN. 



An omelet pan, with sloping sides, is a requisite if the 
best results are desired in making omelets. 





FRYING-PAN. 

One of the latest of 
useful articles for the 
kitchen is the "salad- 
washer." The lettuce is 
placed inside, and the 
washer is then closed and 
well shaken, all the water 
that may cling to the salad being thus thrown off. Salad- 
washers may be had in four sizes, from seven to ten 



SALAD-WASHER. 



42 



THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 



inches in diameter, and the smallest size costs seventy- 
five cents. 

Scales are a necessity in every well-regulated kitchen. 





There are two varieties which are about equally desirable 
— the old-fashioned "counter" scales and the " dial " 
scales. The dial scales can be adjusted to the weight of 
the vessel the article is weighed in by means of a simple 
screw at the top, and on this account are very conven- 
ient. 

f'fWffTf'/^'f''m\ Moulds for jelly, blanc-manges, 

ill 1 1 h' 1 1 I mmm ice-creams, etc., come m many dif- 
rf II I m^L ^^^^"^ forms. It is not best to at- 
-'^^^-^^-kXL^^^^m tempt too fancy a form for ice- 
cream, as the result is apt to be very 
disappointing ; none but an expe- 
rienced packer can use elaborate moulds to advantage. 



BLANC-MANGE OR JELLY 

MOULD. 





INDIVIDUAL JELLY MOULDS. 

We give a simple form that the least skilful need not 
fear to attempt. 

Moulds for puddings are shown in pretty designs in 
earthenware. The best tin moulds are quite expensive, 



THE KITCHEN. 



43 



but jelly and cream cool much more quickly in tin than 
in earthen ware. 

Individual jelly moulds are not very expensive when 
purchased by the dozen, and a very pretty dessert may 
be produced by their use. 





ROUND MOULD, HOLLOW CENTER. 

The round mould, with open 
i-uDDiNG MOULD. ccutcr f o r steamed p u d- 

dings, renders expeditious cooking a possibility, as the 
steam can penetrate the center as well as the sides. 
The round mould for pudding made of corn starch or gela- 
tine has a hollow center. When the pudding is turned from 
the mould, and the center or hollow filled with strawber- 
ries or whipped cream, a very attractive dish is the result. 

There should be a plentiful supply of kettles in every 
kitchen ; and one should be set 
apart for boiling ham, as the odor is 
so lasting. 

The farina kettle, or double- 
boiler, as it is sometimes called, is 
one of the most useful of kitchen 
utensils. It can be used for cook- 
ing many preparations, such as 
boiled custards, cream for filling 
in layer cake, blanc-mange and any 
dish that is made of heated milk. 
Water is placed in the lower kettle and the milk in the 
upper one ; and the latter, being heated by the steam 




FARINA KETTLE. 



44 



THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK. 



from the boiling water, cannot possibly be scorched. 
The price of this boiler is small, one that has a two-quart 
capacity for the upper kettle costing seventy-five cents. 
A small family will only need the quart size for the 
upper kettle. 

A kettle or saucepan in which 
to cook mush for breakfast, 
without danger of scorching, 
has been very recently in- 
vented. Oatmeal or cracked 
wheat is served on nearly all 
breakfast tables nowadays, and 
^^'^"^^^- it is no easy matter to cook 

either of these cereals with the ordinary kettle, both 
requiring to be stirred almost constantly to prevent their 
sticking to the bottom of the vessel. This kettle, there- 
fore, is gladly welcomed. The part A is made of good 
tinware, while B is of copper ; and the space B is solidly 
filled with asbestos, the inside bottom of the kettle being 





where A and B meet. In this way the food is held at 
least an inch from the top of the stove or fire. Such a 
ketde of two-quart size costs seventy cents. 

The dust-pan here shown is an improvement on the old 



THE KITCHEN, 



45 



Style. The foot is placed on the section marked A and 
the dust is taken up without stooping on the part of the 
sweeper. This dust-pan costs thirty cents. 

A wire soap-bracket should 
hang over the kitchen sink in a 
convenient position; and a 
soap shaker will use up all the 
small bits of soap. The latter 
costs fifteen cents. 

Those who have ' not a re- 
frigerator in which to pre- 
serve food will find a set of 
wire screens most useful. 
Food can then be placed on the cellar floor (if the house 
iiiiiiiiiHiiiiiiiiiili 




SOAP-BRACKET. 




SOAP-SHAKER. 



is fortunate enough to have a good cellar) and safely 
covered with the screens. 



LARUING AND TRl'SSIxNG NEEDLES. 



Larding needles must be provided if larding is to 
be done. These have split ends, like a cleft stick, to 
receive strips of fat meat. 

Trussing needles, or skewers, are also very convenient. 

A paste jagger for cutting pie-crust or doughnuts will 
be found of great utility. 



46 



THE PATTEK.V COOK-BOOK, 



Fish scissors are needed. Tliey should be carefully 
washed and dried after each using and placed just where 



} ASlh, JaGGER. 

they can be found when needed again. 

A whip or "syllabub" churn is a 

and useful article. It costs but eigh- 

and is made of tin. The handle, A, 




very cneap 
leen cents 
is placed 



& 



WHIP chuk: 



inside the tube B, and the whole is then 
dipped into a bowl of sweetened and fla- 
vored cream. By churning and pressing it 
through the perforated holes at the bottom 
of the tube, the cream soon becomes a 
light froth, which is skimmed off the top as 
soon as formed ; and the churning is con- 
tinued until all the froth possible is obtained. 



MARKETING. 

" But yet I run before my horse to market." 

Shakspere. 

Few housekeepers know how to market wisely and 
economically. They trust the butcher's opinion entirely 
or else give their orders to the market-boy, and then are 
obliged in consequence to take what is sent and to pay 
the weekly or monthly bill without knowing whether it is 
correct or not. Circumstances are often such that 
" order boys " are of necessity the only avenue of com- 
munication ; but when this is the case, the mistress 
should insist on a bill being sent with each purchase of 
supplies and also that every article be weighed in the 
kitchen, thus relieving the tradesman of any temptation 
to give under weight. 

In some cities it is the fashion to go to market, and 
all ladies do so except those favored ones who can 
employ servants enough to relieve them of all care of 
the house and housekeeping. Skill and experience are 
certainly required in purchasing meat, and it is our 
endeavor here to give directions by which the inexpe- 
rienced housewife may be aided in choosing good food. 

MEAT 

is the general term applied to the flesh of animals used 
for food, and is of three classes : Meat, including beef, 

47 



48 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

veal, mutton, lamb and pork ; Poultry, including chick- 
ens, geese, turkeys and ducks ; Game, including quail, 
partridge, grouse, pigeons and other birds, venison and 
any wild meat that is hunted in the forest or field. 

Meat is in season all the year round, but certain kinds 
are best at certain seasons. Pork is good only in 
autumn and winter. Veal should be eaten in the spring 
and summer. Venison is in season in the winter ; fowls 
in autumn and winter ; lamb in the summer and fall, and 
mutton and beef throughout the year. 

Beef is considered by most people the best and most 
nutritious of meat. An ox should be five or six years old 
before it is killed, being then in its prime. Ox-beef is 
the best. The meat is fine-grained, the lean being of 
a bright red color, marbled throughout with fat, when the 
animal is well-fed and of good breed. The fat should be 
white, not yellow ; and the suet should also be white and 
firm. Beef should never be lean — that is, lacking in 
the usual amount of fat; for unless there is a good 
quantity of fat, the meat will be tough and undesirable. 
Heifer-beef is paler in hue than ox-beef and of closer 
grain, the fat being white, and the bones, of course, 
smaller. Bull-beef should always be avoided. It is dark 
colored and coarse-grained, has very little fat, and 
possesses a very strong, meaty smell. If when meat 
is pressed with the finger it quickly rebounds, it is 
prime ; but if the dent disappears slowly or not at all, 
the meat is of inferior quality. Any greenish tints about 
the fat or the bone, or any slipperiness of surface, 
indicates that the meat has been kept too long and 
is unfit for use, except by those who enjoy what is known 
as a "high flavor." 



MARKETING. 



49 



Meat is cut differently in different parts of the coun- 
try, but the accompanying cut of an ox shows one way of 



dividing it. 



1. Sirloin. 

2. lop or aitch-bone. 

3. Rump. 

4. Round. 

5. Lower part of round 

6. Veiny piece. 

7. Thick flank. 

8. Thin 

9. Leg. 

10 Fore-rib (5 ribs). 

11. Middle rib (4 ribs) 

12. Chuck rib (3 nbs) 

13. Shoulder. 

14. Brisket. 

15. Clod. 

16. Sticking. 

17. Shin. 




OX. 



Choose the ribs or the sirloin for roasting ; if the 
former be selected, let them be the middle ribs. One rib, 
unless the bone is taken out and the meat rolled and 
stuffed, is too thin to be an economical cut, because much 
is lost in cooking. In selecting sirloin, have it cut from 
4 



50 



THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 



what butchers call the " chump end," which has a 
good under-cut. The tenderloin lies under the short ribs 
and close to the back. It is considered by many to be 
the choicest piece and can be purchased by itself, but 




Loin, best end. 

Loin, chump end. 

Fillet. 

Hind knuckle. 

Fore knuckle. 

Neck, best end. 

Neck, scrag end. 



8. Blade bone. 

9. Breast, best end 
10. Breast, brisket end. 



CALF. 

only at the larger markets. It is usually cut through 
with the porterhouse and sirloin steaks. Of these the 
porterhouse is generally preferred, and the short or small 
porterhouse is the most economical. The coarse and 
tough end of the large steaks may be used for soup. The 
family that has to carefully consider the expense of meat 
will find recipes farther on for preparing the cheapest 
cuts so as to make a nutritious dinner at small cost. 



MARKETING. 



51 



Veal is best when the calf is two or three months old ; 
if over four months old, the flesh will be coarse. Veal 
should be white and the kidney well covered with fat. If 
the flesh is dark and hangs loosely about the bone, it 
IS not good. It should be dry and closely grained ; if 



Leg. 

Chump end of loin. 
Best end of loin. 
Neck, best end. 
Neck, scrag end. 



6. Shoulder. 

7. Breast. 

A saddle is the two loins undivided. 
A chine is the two sides of the neck 
undivided. 




SHEEP, 
moist and clammy, avoid it. The fillet, loin, shoulder 
and best end of the neck are the roasting joints. The 
breast is usually stewed, as is also the knuckle. A calf's 
head is a great delicacy. Calves' feet are boiled and 
stewed, or used for making jelly. Sweetbreads have 
come to be looked upon as a great delicacy and are 
therefore expensive. The calf is divided as illustrated in 
cut, 



52 



THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK, 



Mutton should be fat, and the fat should be clear, hard 
and white. Wether-mutton is the best and may be known 
by having a knob of fat on the upper part of the leg. 
Mutton to be perfection should be from sheep five or 
six years old. The flesh should be dark-colored, the 




1. Leg. 

2. Loin. 

3. .Shoulder. 

4. Breast. 

5. Ribs. 
Forequarter, 3, 4 and 5 together. 



LAMB. 

color being an indication of age. The ribs may be used 
for chops, but there is much waste, the bones taking up 
half of the weight. The leg chops are most economi- 
cal. All the joints of a sheep may be roasted, the sad- 
dle being the best, and the haunch next. The leg and 
neck are used for boiling. The scrag end — an eco- 
nomical piece — is very sw^eet stewed and served with 
rice. The sheep is cut up as illustrated in the engrav- 
ing. 



MARKETING. 



53 



Lamb should be a year old ; and it is more digestible 
than any other young meat. The flesh should be a pale 
red and should be fat. Lamb is generally roasted or 
broiled, the finest chops being from the loin. 

Venison is best when from the female deer. The flesh 



1. Haunch. 

2. Neck. 

3. Shoulder. 

4. Breast. 




DEER. 

should be a reddish-brown, and the fat thick, clean and 
close. This meat is more often eaten " high " than any 
other variety. 

Buy pork only when the butcher can be relied upon to 
have good meat ; for diseased pork is of all meat the 
most to be avoided. The fat should be firm, and the 
lean white and finely grained. If the fat is full of small 
kernels, the pig has been measly, and the meat is unfit 



54 



THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 



for use. Pork should never be eaten during the warm 
months. The pig is divided as illustrated below. 




1. Spare-rib. 

2. Hand. 

3. Belly. 

4. Fore-loin. 

5. Hind-loin. 

6. Leg. 



PIG. 



TO CHOOSE TURKEY. 

They are in season in fall and winter and the old ones 
have long hairs and the flesh is purplish — where it shows 
under the skin on the legs and back. When young they 
are white and plump, with smooth black legs, and the 
cock bird has a sharp spur. When fresh the eyes are 
bright and full and the feet supple ; and the absence of 



MARKETING. 55 

these signs denotes age and staleness. Hen-turkeys are 
inferior in flavor to the gobblers, but are smaller, plumper 
and fatter. 

FOWLS. 

These are always in season. The old ones have long, 
thin necks and feet, and the flesh on the back and legs 
has a purplish shade, the legs being rough and hard. 
V'oung fowls have tender skin, smooth legs and comb, the 
breast bone is soft and easily bent with the fingers, and 
the feet and neck are large in proportion to the body. 
Choose white-legged fowls for stewing and dark-legged 
ones for roasting. 

GEESE. 

Young geese have yellow and supple bills and feet and 
tender skin, and the breast is plump and the fat white. 
An old goose is not fit for the table. It has red and 
hairy legs. ^ 

DUCKS. 

Young ducks feel tender under the wings, and the web 
of the foot is transparent. Those are best that have 
thick, hard breasts. The wild duck has reddish legs, and 
the tame duck yellow ones. 

FISH. 

The eyes of fresh fish are bright, the gills of a fine, 
clear red, the body stiff, and the smell not unpleasant. 
Fish, in order to be palataljle, must be eaten very soon 
after being taken from the water. Chloride of soda will 



56 THE PATTERIV COOK-BOOK. 

restore fish that is not extremely fresh, but it is never so 
good as when freshly caught. 

OYSTERS. 

If fresh, oysters will close forcibly on the knife when 
opened. If the shell gapes in the least degree, the oyster 
is losing its freshness ; and when the shell remains open 
the oyster is dead. 

HARES AND RABBITS. 

When these animals are young and fresh the cleft in the 
lip is narrow, the body stiff, and the claws smooth and 
sharp. Old and stale hares and rabbits will present 
indications the reverse of these. To ascertain whether a 
hare is young or old, turn the claws side w^ ays ; if they 
crack the animal is young. The ears also should be 
tender and should bend easily. 

EGGS. 

Shake the eggs, and if not altogether good, they will 
rattle. Another test is to place them in a basin of water 
if they lie on their sides, they are fresh, but if they turn 
on end, they are not good. 

VEGETABLES. 

Vegetables should be crisp and fresh-looking. 

Apples. — In choosing these, be guided by the -weight, 
the heaviest being the best ; and those should be selected 
which, on being pressed by the thumb, yield to it with a 
slight cracking noise. Prefer large apples to small, for 
the waste is not so great in peeling and coring them. 
Apples should be kept in a dry place, and if convenient 
should be laid on a straw bad, which is a great safeguard 
against decay. 



PLAIN DIRECTIONS. 

Not to know at large of things remote 
From use, obscure and subtle, but to know 
That which before us lies in daily life 
Is the prime wisdom." 



Milton. 



The knowledge of how to properly cook meat is not 
possessed by half the housewives in this country. The 
finest cuts of meat are often provided and then utterly 
ruined by the one preparing them for the table. This 
is not due to a lack of mterest on the part of the mother 
of the family, but to the fact that she does not under- 
stand the first principles of cooking ; and the result is 
ruin to the meat and often to the health of the family as 
well. A few principles cover the entire ground and can 
be briefly explained without going into the chemistry of 
meat at all ; and when these are once understood, the 
housewife can readily apply them, much to her enlighten- 
ment and to the advantage of those looking to her for 
nutritious and well prepared food. 

Meat, when properly cooked, should be juicy, well 
flavored and as tender as possible. It is largely made up 
of albumen and fibrine, and when these are exposed to a 
degree of heat higher than the boiling point, the meat 
becomes hard and indigestible. With the following facts 

57 



58 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

well in mind, the young housekeeper need make no 
e^Tor in the preparation and cooking of meat : First, heat 
higher than the boiling point hardens and shrinks meat, 
but when kept at the boiling point for a long time, 
it will make the meat tender, provided there is plenty of 
moisture. Second, meat to be roasted or boiled should , 
be exposed for the first fifteen minutes to a greater 
degree of heat than the boiling point, so that the surface 
of the meat may be crusted and hardened to keep in the 
juices. Third, the heat must not be allowed to fall below 
the boiling point while the meat is cooking, that tempera- 
ture being necessary for the development of the flavor. 
Thus we see that the meat must first be treated to a high 
degree of heat, to close the pores of the surface, after 
which it must be maintained uniformly at boiling point 
(212°) until the cooking is done. 

ROASTING. 

There are three modes of roasting^-before the coals, 
under a sheet of flame in a gas stove, and in an ordinary 
range or stove. The last named process is unanimously 
conceded to be inferior to either of the others, but 
the oven is always available while the first two are not, 
unless special preparation has been made for the 
work. 

For roasting before the fire it is necessary to have the 
range constructed for this purpose, and a tin screen with 
a spit and jack to place before the coals, on which to do 
the work. Some of the roasters are arranged with a 
spring-jack ; the meat is placed on the spit and the 
spring wound up, which sets the meat revolving slowly 
before the fire. The meat should first be placed near 



PLAIN DIRECTIONS. 59 

the coals to quickly crust the surface, and then moved 
back a little to cook through without burning. Baste 
the meat frequently ; and if the roast is very large, it 
should be surrounded with a buttered paper. Just before 
the meat is done, it should be basted with a little butter, 
then sprinkled with flour and placed nearer the fire to 
brown. Sprinkle a little salt upon the roast, but not 
until it is ready to serve, as salt draws out the juices. 
The fire should be made ready some time before putting 
in the meat, that the coals may be bright and hot ; and 
it should be strong enough to last through the roasting, 
with possibly the addition of a little coal. 

In roasting in a pan, the nifeat should be placed on a 
meat rest, and thus raised from the bottom of the baking 
pan. (This rest is described among the kitchen utensils.) 
Dredge the meat with flour, salt and pepper it, and sprin- 
kle a quantity of flour in the bottom of the pan. The 
salt draws out the juices, but the flour unites with them, 
making a paste that soon hardens and imprisons those 
within the meat. When the flour in the pan is brown, 
put in just enough water to cover the bottom. After the 
meat has browned, it should be basted at least every ten 
minutes, wifti the gravy in the pan, and then treated to 
another light sprinkling of flour. The water in the pan 
should be renewed frequently, but none should be added 
during the last half hour, so that there will be nothing 
remaining in the pan but oil and sediment. When the 
meat is done, lay it on a warm platter, lift the meat-rest 
from the pan, pour off the fat, and scrape the sediment 
from the sides and bottom. Place the pan on the stove, 
and add a cupful of hot water ; when this has boiled up 
once, stir in a thickening composed of flour and water 



6o THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

rubbed to a thin paste, pouiing in only a little of the 
paste at a time so the gravy will not be too thick. Let 
the gravy boil for two or three minutes to cook the flour, 
stirring constantly ; then season with salt and pepper and 
strain into a hot dish. The time required for roasting 
meat is given in the cook's time-table. 

BROILING. 

is cooking directly over the hot coals. This is one of the 
simplest forms of cooking meats, yet care, niceness 
and skill are required to broil properly. The fire should 
be bright red and nearly to the top of the fire-box, so that 
the broiler may almost touch the fire ; but there should 
be no flame. The wire broiler is much more easily man- 
aged than the iron gridiron ; it can be turned quickly and 
easily, and, if the fire is at too great a heat, can be easily 
held away from it to allow the fire to cool down to the de- 
sired point. Grease the broiler well with a bit of fat from 
the meat, and place the thickest part of whatever is to be 
broiled next to the middle of the broiler. Do not salt the 
meat unless a sprinkling of flour is used at the same 
time, as in roasting ; but the better way seems to be to 
season when the meat is cooked, although cooks differ on 
this point. Place the broiler as near the fire as possible, 
and when the surface of the meat is seared, quickly 
turn and crust the other side. If the fat that drips off 
catches in a blaze, quickly remove the broiler until the 
flame has died down, and throw a little salt on the fire to 
clear it again. Keep turning the broiler almost con- 
stantly until the meat is cooked. Never thrust a fork 
into the lean part of meat that is broiling, as the juice is 
thus started and much of it escapes. Cook ten min- 



PLAIN DIRECTIONS. 6 1 

utes if the meat is an inch thick, so as to have it a fine 
rare dressing. Butter well, and serve very hot. The 
smaller and thinner the article to be broiled, the hotter 
should be the fire ; and the larger the piece, the more 
moderate should be the fire or the greater the distance at 
which the meat should be held from the heat. 

In broihng fish, buttered paper is generally first 
wrapped around it to prevent burning. When it is 
broiled without paper, rub the broiler well with butter 
and have it slightly heated. To preserve the skin of 
broiled fish entire, dip the fish, as soon as it has been 
washed and cleaned, in vinegar for a second, dry it in a 
cloth, and flour it. 

Chops, bacon and birds, as well as fish, are often 
broiled in paper. To broil in this way, proceed as fol- 
lows : Take a large sheet of white letter-paper, and rub it 
well with butter, to keep out the air. Season the chop or 
bird with salt and pepper, place it near the center of the 
paper, and fold the edges of the covering over several 
times, pinching them together close to the meat. The 
paper will char a lor^g time before it blazes, if care be 
taken not to break through the paper and thus admit the 
air and let out the fat and juice that will have come from 
the meat. The meat will be basted in its own juice. A 
longer time is required for broiling in this way, but when 
the paper is well brov/ned, the meat is done. Birds to be 
broiled are cut open and the inside laid to the fire 
first. 

Anything egged and crumbed should be well buttered 
before broiling. The broiler should be covered with a tin 
pan or a baking pan when pieces that require any length 
of time to dress are to be broiled. In broiling a good- 



62 THE PA TTER.V COOK-BOOK. 

sized chicken a great amount of care is required, and 
really none but a professional can be sure of the result. 
The amateur will be better pleased to broil the chicken 
only long enough to give it a rich brown tone on all 
sides, and then put it in a shallow pan or a frying-pan, 
and finish it in a moderate oven. 

Pan-broiling is broiling in a hissing hot frying-pan. 
This way often has to be relied upon when wood is 
burned instead of coal, the difficulty of securing a deep 
bed of wood coals to broil over being not easily over- 
come. Heat the pan very hot and rub across it once 
with a bit of fat from the meat, to keep the latter from 
sticking to the pan ; but do not leave any fat in the pan. 
Sear the meat quickly on one side, then turn it carefully 
(without piercing the lean of the meat) and brown the 
other side before any juice escapes into the pan. Cook 
about five minutes for meat an inch thick, if it be liked 
dressed rare, turning it twice ; and serve very hot, after 
seasoning with butter, salt and pepper. This is not fry- 
ing or rather sauteing, but broiling on iron, and the 
flavor of meat prepared in this way is excellent. 

BOILING. 

Salted meats, such as ham, corned-beef, salt tongue, 
etc., should be put on the fire to boil in cold water, to 
draw out the salt, and should be gently brought to the 
boiling point and kept there, rapid boiling being carefully 
avoided, as it hardens and ruins the meat. All other 
meats should be plunged in boiling water at the first, and 
when the water boils again (it will be cooled somewhat 
when the meat is put in) skim it and keep it at the boil- 
ing point for fifteen minutes ; then draw the kettle away 



PLAIN DIRECTIONS. 6^ 

from the fire, where it will be kept at just the bubbling 
point, care being taken that the water never gets below 
this heat while the meat is cooking. If these directions 
are followed, every piece of boiled meat will be found 
tender and juicy when done and will cut smoothly, while 
meat that has been boiled rapidly will break into long 
shreds when cut, and will be hard and tasteless. 

Fish that is to be boiled should first be wrapped in 
cheese-cloth, the cloth being pinned or tied together at 
the lapping places ; the fish can thus be easily kept from 
breaking. When done it should be lifted out by the 
cloth and drained thoroughly before being placed on the 
serving dish. 

FRYING 

is cooking by immersion in hot fat. The fat should be 
deep enough to entirely cover the article to be cooked, 
and as the same fat may be used many times, it is 
not so extravagant to take such a quantity as some house- 
keepers think. The careful cook saves all the fat that 
can be collected from boiling meat of any sort, the fat 
ends of steaks and mutton-chops, and from all other 
sources of this kind. The fat should, however, be clari- 
fied before using. 

TO CLARIFY FAT, 

place it on the stove in the frying-pan, and heat it slowly. 
When the fat is melted, set it where it will simply 
bubble, and keep it there until there is no motion and all 
the sediment has fallen to the bottom of the pan. Then 
drain and set away for use. Many persons object to the 
odor of clarifying fat and, therefore, place the frying-pan 



64 THE PA TTERX COOK-BOOK. 

in the oven to melt the fat. This method is fully as suc- 
cessful, but the oven should not be too hot, and it should 
be left open to air after the pan has been removed. 
After fat has been used a number of times, and has 
become darkened, it may be cleared thus : Place the fat 
in a kettle with about six times its quantity of hot water, 
and boil twenty minutes. Turn the liquid into a large 
pan and set in a cool place. When cold, the fat will be 
found in a solid cake on the surface of the water, but 
must then be clarified in the manner already described. 

The secret of successful frying is to have the fat hot 
enough to instantly harden the surface of the article fried 
and thus prevent the fat soaking in. The fat 
should be heated slowly, and when blue smoke arises 
from the center of the liquid, drop a bit of bread into it; 
if the bread browns in one minute, the fat is hot enough. 
Only the experienced can know what is meant by the 
words "hot fat" ; the unskilled in housekeeping will have 
to learn by tests. The word " boiling " as applied to fat 
is misleading, as it would imply a motion of the liquid. 
When fat does not contain any foreign substances, there is 
no motion to it at this degree of heat. The novice can 
best tell by watching for the smoke to rise from the center 
when the fat is hoi enough. Coffee sprinkled on the 
stove while frying is being done will disguise the unpleas- 
ant smell, but it is a matter of taste which odor is to be 
preferred. 

The frying-basket is fast gaining a place in every 
kitchen. After placing in the basket the articles to be 
fried — not, however, crowding them at all — lower the 
basket gently in the fat. When the food is cooked, lift 
the basket, drain well, place in on a plate and remove the 



PLA IN DIRE C TIONS. 6 5 

articles cooked. Lay them on brown paper that has 
been spread in a warmed pan. If properly cooked they 
will hardly stain the paper. Doughnuts, oysters, cro- 
quettes of all kinds and many other dishes are cooked in 
this way. The frying-basket is illustrated in the kitchen 
utensils. 

SAUTfelNG. 

The ordinary method of frying in a frying-pan with 
only a little fat, doing one side at a time, is called by the 
French " sauteing." To saute well the work must be 
done quickly so as to keep the juices in the meat. It is 
by many considered an economical mode of cooking 
small articles of food of all kinds. Almost everything 
that is saute'ed is much better when fried by immersion. 
Some people, however, are very unwilling to make the 
change and persist in cooking in the old way, using a 
little half-hot fat, which spatters over everythmg near it, 
soaks into fish or meat, and is often served as the only 
gravy. 

BRAISING. 

This mode of cooking is most successful when the 
meat is lacking in flavor or is tough. It is, when properly 
done, the act of cooking by the action of heat above as 
well as below the article cooked. The braising-pan (see 
Kitchen Utensilsj has a deep cover, on which live 
charcoal is placed. The pan is air tight, and vegetables 
are generally placed with the meat, thus imparting any 
particular flavor desired. Stock is added to the pan (if 
there is any at hand) or water may be substituted. 
Braising in the oven is much easier, and the result is 

5 



66 



THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK 



practically the same. A deep pan with a close-fitting 
cover will answer in place of the regular pan, but the 
parts must not be soldered together. 

LARDING. 

This may seem to many a difficult and unnecessary 
work. The only implement needed is a larding needle, 
which costs fifteen cents and should last a lifetime. Any 
one who can sew can lard, as it is merely sewing with 
strips of fat bacon or pork, leaving the fat midway 
through the meat. Lean and dry meats are much 



C 




improved by larding. Take a piece of salt pork two 
inches wide and four inches long, and shave off the rind 
the long way of the pork ; then cut the same way as the 
rind two or three slices a quarter of an inch thick, cutting 
only to the membrane which lies about an inch below the 
rind, as this is the firmest part of the pork. Then cut 
each slice across the width into strips a quarter of an inch 
wide and thick and two inches long. Insert one end 
of a lardon, as each of these pieces is called, in the 
needle, and then with the point of the needle take 



PL A IN DIRE C riONS. 



67 



up a stitch half an inch deep and one inch lon<r 
across the surface of the meat. Draw the needle through 
and help the pork to follow by pushing it until partly 
through; then hold the end of the pork, and draw the 
needle out, leaving the pork inserted in the meat, with 
the ends projecting at equal lengths. Take up more 
stitches one inch apart, in parallel rows, until the whole 
surface is covered. A is a piece of meat to be larded, 
and the numbers show the strips of bacon or pork as 
inserted, 6 being the needle with the lardon attached 
and partly drawn through. 

BONING. 

This is not difficult work. A small knife with a short 
sharp, pointed blade is the only implement required. 
The aim is to remove the flesh from the bone without 
cutting it. To bone a fowl, cut off the neck and the legs 
at the first joint, and cut the skin in a line down the mid- 
dle of the back. Then, taking first one side of the cut in 
your fingers and then the other, carefully separate the 
flesh from the bones, sliding the knife close to each bone. 
Unjoint the wings and the legs at the body-joint and, 
cutting close to the bones, draw them, turning the flesh 
of the legs and wings inside out. ,When all the bones 
are out, the skin and flesh can be readjusted and stuffed 
into shape. The butcher will bone when so ordered. 
The bones may be saved for soup. 

STEAMING. 

There are two ways of doing this work — one in which 
the meat is acted upon by direct contact with steam, and 



68 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

the other in which the steam cooks without contact. 
Steaming by contact is done by placing the article to be 
cooked in a steamer, which is a round tin vessel with 
a close-fitting cover and a perforated bottom; and 
then settins: the steamer over a kettle of water that is 
kept at the boiling point all through the cooking. Pud- 
dings are very delicious when steamed, and many meats 
are warmed over in this way, with good results. The 
other way of steaming is done in a cooking pot made 
expressly for this purpose. It is an English invention, 
and something very similar to the original is now 
sold in this country. This vessel consists of two kettles 
one set inside the other, the upper one containing 
the meat and the lower one boiling water. The arrange- 
ment for the action of the steam is such that the 
latter surrounds the upper kettle, even the lid of which is 
so constructed that the steam passes into it also, thus 
cooking the meat in its own juices without the loss of any 
nutritive properties. 



PLAUV DIRECTIONS. 



69 



Cook's Time-Table. 



Roastingr. 

Beef, sirloin, rare, per lb., 8 to 10 min. 
Beef, sirloin, well done, per lb., 12 to 

15 min. 
Beef, rolled rib or rump, per lb., 12 10 

15 min. 
Beef, long^ or short fillet, per lb., 20 to 

30 min. 
Chickens, per lb., 20 min. 
Fish, if long and thin, per lb., 10 to 12 

min. 
Fish, if thick, per lb., 15 min. 
Game, 30 to 40 min. 
Goose, per ib., i8 to 20 min. 
Grouse, 30 min. 

Lamb, well done, per lb., 15 min. 
Mutton, well done, per lb., 15 min. 
Mutton, rare, per lb., 10 min. 
Pork, well done, per lb., 23 min. 
Pigeons, 30 min. 
.Small Birds, 20 to 25 min. 
Turkey, per lb., 20 min. 
Tame Duck, per lb., 40 to 60 min. 
Veal, well done, per ib., 20 min. 
V^enison, per lb., 15 min. 

Baking. 

Bread, 40 to 60 min. 
Biscuit, 20 to 25 min. 
Beans, 4 to 6 hrs. 
Braised Meat, 3 to 4 hrs. 
Cookies, 10 to 15 min. 
Custards, 15 to 20 min. 
Cake : 

Sponge, 45 to 60 min 

Plain, 30 to 40 min. 

Layer, 6 to 8 min. 

Fruit, 2 to 3 hrs. 
Gems, graham, 30 min. 
(Gingerbread, 30 to 40 min. 
Potatoes, 45 to 60 min. 
Puddings : 

Bread, i hour. 

Indian, 2 to 3 hrs. 

Plum, 2 to 3 hrs. 

Rice and Tapioca, i hour. 
Rolls, 20 to 30 min. 
Scolloped Dishes, 20 to 30 min. 

Boiling. 

Asparagus, 20 min. 
Beef, corned, 3 to 4 hrs. 
Beets (young), 30 to 45 min. 
Cabbage, 45 to 60 min. 
Clams, 3 to 5 min. 
Corn (green), 15 to 20 min. 



Celery, 20 to 30 min. 
Carrots, 30 to 45 min. 
Cauliflower, 30 to 45 min. 
Chickens, i to 2 hrs. 
Coffee, 3 to 5 min. 
Cod, per lb., 6 min. 
Eggs (soft), 3 to 5 min. 
Eggs (hard), 15 to 20 min. 
Fowls, per lb., 25 min. 
Fish (small), per lb., 6 min. 
Fish, blue, per lb., 10 min. 
Fish, bass, 10 min. 
Ham, 4 to 5 hrs. 
Haddock, per lb., 6 min. 
Halibut, per lb., 15 min. 
Hominy, i to 2 hrs. 
Lamb, i to 2 hrs. 
Macaroni, 30 to 45 min. 
Oysters, 3 to 5 min. 
Onions, 30 to 45 min. 
Oatmeal, i to 2 hrs. 
Potatoes, 2o.to 30 min. 
Peas, 15 to 20 min. 
Parsnips, 30 to 45 min. 
Rice, 15 to 20 min. 
Squash, 20 to 30 min. 
Spinach, 20 to 30 min. 
Salsify, 45 to 60 min. 
Salmon, per lb., 15 min. 
Sweetbreads, 20 to 30 min. 
Tomatoes, 15 to 20 min. 
Turnips, 30 to 45 min. 
Turkey, per lb., 25 min. 
Tongue, smoked, 3 to 4 hrs. 
Vegetables (Winter), i to 2 hrs. 
Veal, per lb., 25 min. 
Wheat-mush, i to 2 hrs. 

Broiling. 

Beefsteak, one inch thick, rare, 10 min. 
Beefsteak, one inch thick, well done, 

14 min. 
Chops (Lamb), 4 min. 
Chickens (small), 30 min. 
Fish (thick), 20 min. 
Fish (thin), 12 min. 

Frying by Immersion. 

Croquettes, i min. 
Chops (breaded), 4 to 6 min. 
Doughnuts, 3 to 5 min. 
Fish : 

Codfish Balls, i min. 

Small fish, 2 min. 

Smelts, 2 min. 

Sliced Fish, 4 to 6 min. 
Fritters, 3 to 5 min. 



SOUPS. 

Man shall not live bv bread alone.' 



Bible. 



To make nutritious, healthful and palatable soup, with 
flavors properly commingled, is an art which requires 
much study and practice. There seems to be a general 
impression that soups should be made from almost noth-' 
ing, but this is a great mistake, although it often happens 
that a scanty allotment of material makes a delicate and 
truly good soup, but in a very small quantity. 

A supply of materials for soup-making should always 
be kept on hand, such as dried sweet herbs (which may 
be purchased already dried if the housewife does not 
grow them herself), whole and ground spices and fresh 
vegetables. In every pantry should be an earthenware 
bowl for keeping the remnants of steaks, the bones 
from roasts, etc., anything, in fact, that can be used 
in soup. After breakfast or dinner the wise and 
careful housewife will look over the steaks, chops or 
roast and put by themselves any pieces that can be again 
used, either cold or for entrees (made dishes). Then all 
the bones, trimmings and the gravy will be put in the 
earthenware bowH just mentioned, to be used for soup. 
All remnants of cooked vegetables will be saved, and the 
water in which has been boiled a leg of mutton, a fowl, a 

70 



SOUPS. J I 

fresh tongue or a piece of beef will be utilized as a basis 
for soup. Soup may either be made with what is called 
'* stock " (when meat is the material used for founda- 
tion), or it may be made without stock and is then 
called sotipe maigre. 

SOUP WITH STOCK. 

Under this head are included all the varieties of soup 
made from beef, veal, mutton or poultry. In preparing 
soup stock, the desired object is to obtain from the meat 
all the nutritive and flavoring qualities contained in the 
lean parts and in the bones. To accomplish this, the 
meat should be wiped well and cut into small pieces ; 
this is to expose as large a surface as possible to the 
action of the heat and water. Break or saw the bones 
also into small pieces, and soak both meat and bones in 
cold soft water, allowing a quart of water to every pound 
of soup material Having soaked the meat half an hour 
off the lire, place the kettle on the back of the range for 
another half hour, after which the water can be slowly 
heated to boiling. The kettle for soup-making should 
have a tight cover, so that no steam can escape, or so 
very little that it will not diminish the quantity of water 
to any extent. The water should be soft, since hard 
water hardens the meat and thus imprisons the juices. 
No salt is added, for the same reason. 

The scum that rises with the boiling contains nothing 
unclean, unless the meat has not been properly washed; 
and although uninviting-looking it should not be skimmed 
ofT, for it contains much that is nutritious. When the 
liquid has fully reached the boiling point, set the kettle 
back where it will o-entlv bubble for about six hours. 



72 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Now strain the stock, and throw away the meat and 
scraps, because all the nutriment is, or should be, ex- 
tracted, thus leaving the meat entirely unfit for further 
use. Set the stock away to cool, as rapidly as possible, 
and the next day remove the fat, which will have hard- 
ened on the top. 

This is the simplest way of making soup-stock, and it 
can be made the foundation for a plain or a rich soup, if 
carefully prepared. There should not be more than a 
quarter of a pound of bone to -each three-quarters of a 
pound of meat used. If a larger proportion of bone must 
be used, make the allotment of water a little less than a 
quart to every pound. 

MEAT FOR STOCK. 

Stock may either be made of only one kind of meat or 
of several different kinds, and it often happens that the 
greater the variety of meats employed the better the 
flavor of the soup will be. Beef is the most valuable and 
generally the cheapest meat to buy for soup. The parts 
used for different kinds of soup are as follows : For 
bouillon or consomme, the round, flank, shoulder or 
brisket, and for a clear beef soup, the neck, cheek, leg, 
shin or any scraggy part besides the bones. A shin or 
leg will be a cheap piece to use. Butchers do not break 
these parts into small enough pieces, for the leg should 
be cut into at least eight or ten parts and washed well 
in cold water. When the cheek and neck are used, 
they should also be washed, but the round need not be ; 
wipe it instead with a wet towel. 

Poultry is of great value in making stock. A light, 
white stock may be very economically produced thus : 



SOUPS. 73 

Clean and truss a fowl (skewer it), put it, breast down, in 
as small a stew-pan as will hold it, cover it with cold 
water, and heat it slowly to the boiling point. Let it 
simmer until the fowl is tender, skimming off all the 
scum, so that the soup will be light ; then take up the 
fowl and set it away to cool. Strain the water, set it 
away, and when cold, remove the fat that forms on the 
top. The fowl can be used in many ways — for breakfast 
or luncheon or as an entree for dinner. This stock will 
serve as the basis for cream soups and white sauces. 
The fowl should not be more than two years old. Some- 
times the feet of poultry are used in soup. They may be 
cleaned by holding them with tongs over clear coals 
until the skin cracks and curls, when it can be rubbed 
oft' easily ; or they may be covered with boiling water for 
a few minutes and then scraped free of skin and nails. 
They give body to a soup. Mutton is not much used for 
stock. When it is so used, the fat should all be stripped 
off before the meat is placed over the fire, as it imparts 
an exceedingly unpleasant flavor to the stock. The 
neck, shoulders and feet are the parts generally used for 
this purpose. 

Any kind of game may be used for stock. 

It is, of course, expensive if purchased for the purpose, 
but the remnants left from roasts and broils will be found 
to improve stock very much. 

The flesh of young animals is rarely used, because it 
does not produce nearly so fine a flavor as that of the 
mature animal. 

Veal and beef are most largely used and make deli- 
ciously smooth soups. The best parts of veal are the 
shin, head and feet. 



74 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

TO CLEAR STOCK. 

When the stock is cloudy and a clear soup is desired, it 
may be clarified by the use of the whites and shells of 
eggs, one being used for every two quarts of stock. 
Beat the egg until light, but not dry, and put it and the 
crushed shell in the cold stock. Place the stock over 
the fire, heat it slowly to boiling, and boil ten min- 
utes; a thick scum will then have formed. Draw the 
stock back on the range, and add half a cupful of cold 
water. Now let it stand ten minutes, when strain 
through a napkin, placing a fine wire sieve over the nap- 
kin to catch the scum and shells, which would otherwise 
clog the napkin. 

TO SEASON STOCK. 

In warm weather when stock is to be kept for five or 
six days, it is better not to use vegetables for seasoning at 
the time it is made, because vegetable jiu'ces ferment 
quickly and sour the stock. It is safer to add the sea- 
soning each day at the time the stock is cleared. 

To season and clear two quarts of stock, allow 

One white o£ egg and the shell. 

Two blades of celery. 

One bay-leaf. 

One-half leaf of sage. 

Three whole cloves. 

Six pepper-corns. 

One inch piece of cinnamon. 

One small onion. 

One-half large slice of carrot. 

One sprig of parsley. 

One small sprig of thyme. 

One small sprig of summer savory. 



SOUPS. 75 

One small sprig of sweet marjoram. 
One-half tea-spoonful of sugar 
One and a half tea-spoonful of salt. 

The herbs should be tied together. Place all this sea- 
soning, the beaten white of egg and the crushed shell, 
as in clearing soup, together in the soup ; heat very 
slowly, and when the first bubbling appears, move the 
kettle to the back of the range, where it will keep at the 
boiling point, without really boiling. The kettle should 
be closely covered to keep the soup from being reduced. 
Let it stand in this heat for half an hour, and then strain. 
In this case the tgg is left in longer than when it is 
simply desired to clear the soup, but the latter will only 
be the clearer for the extra length of time. 

When seasoning the soup, as first made, add the differ- 
ent vegetables, spices, etc., as soon as the meat is put on 
the range, unless otherwise directed by the following 
recipe. A good authority on soup-making gives this 
proportion of seasoning to be used ; Allowing one quart 
of water to every pound of meat and bone, add for every 
quart allowed, 

One even tea-spoonful of salt, 
j Two pepper corns, or 
( One quarter of a tea-spoonful of ground pepper. 

Two cloves. 

Two allspice berries. 

One tea-spoonful of mixed herbs, 
j One quarter of a tea-spoonful of celery salt, or 
I One sprig of celery root. 

One sprig of parsley. 

One table-spoonful of each vegetable at hand. 

The vegetables generally used are onion, carrots, tur- 
nips and celery, and they should be cut into very small 



j6 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

pieces that they may be accurately measured. Strain the 
soup when the meat has boiled to rags, and set it away 
where it will cool quickly ; then remove the cake of fat 
that will form on the top. This fat excludes the air and 
helps to keep the stock ; so if the soup is not to be used 
at once, do not remove the fat until needed. No grease 
or oil should ever appear upon soup. 

If " a hasty plate of soup " is to be made and there is 
not time to wait for the stock to cool, place whatever 
may be needed in a shallow pan and set it in another pan 
of cold water — ice-water, if possible. This will soon 
harden the fat. If there is not even time for this, take 
off all the oil possible with a spoon and wipe the rest off 
with soft tissue paper. 

Still another method consists in straining the soup 
several times through a fine napkin that has been rinsed 
in cold water ; the grease will adhere to the cloth. 

With this seasoned stock for a basis, an endless variety 
of soups may be made. This stock will be sufficiently 
clear for any ordinary soup, but for clear amber soup the 
&gg must be used for clarifying. When soup is made 
from stock and rice, sago, tapioca, macaroni or anything 
of a similar nature, except vermicelli, the stock should not 
be wasted by boiling the added substance in it long 
enough to cook it ; instead, cook this matter separately 
and, having drained it thoroughly, add it to the soup. 
Vermicelli cooks in five minutes, and is, therefore, an 
exception ; it should be crushed in the hands as it is 
dropped into the kettle. 

THICKENING FOR STOCK. 

When thickening is needed for a clear soup, arrow-root. 



SOUPS. yy 

corn starch or fine ground tapioca should be used, 
decided preference being given the arrow-root. When 
no possible trace of thickening is desired, this will be by 
far the most satisfactory : Allow a table-spoonful of 
arrow-root to each quart of stock, wetting the arrow-root 
until smooth with a little of the liquid ; and boil 
slowly for half an hour* Corn starch gives a little 
cloudiness to the soup, but it is used in the same propor- 
tion as arrow-root. Tapioca in the same proportion 
is sprinkled into the soup, which should be boiling hot, 
and should boil ten minutes after. This leaves small 
grains in the soup, which to many are not objectionable. 
Cream soups are thickened very delicately with the 
yolks of eggs, two yolks being allowed to a quart of soup. 
The yolks are beaten thoroughly and thinned with a little 
cold milk before being added to the soup, which should 
be served after only a moment's boiling. 

COLORING FOR STOCK. 

To color soup brown take equal parts of flour and but- 
ter and brown them in a frying-pan, stirring constantly to 
prevent burning; when well browned, add to the soup. 
A piece of bread toasted very brown, but in no case 
burned, may be simmered in the soup for ten minutes, 
serving to give it a darker color. 

Many preparations are obtainable for coloring soups, 
such as soup paste, beef extract and caramel. The last 
is most frequently used and is easily made at home. 
Melt a cupful of sugar, either white or brown, with a 
table-spoonful of water in a frying-pan, stir until of a 
dark brown color, add a cupful of boiling water, stir for 
ten minutes and cool and bottle for use. Many 



78 ^ THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

housewives keep this caramel always ready for use ; 
it may also be used for flavoring custards and pudding 
sauces, coloring jelly, etc. 

Spinach greens, which some professional cooks use for 
coloring soup, is made thus : Pound the uncooked 
spinach well, adding a few drops of water ; then place 
the whole in a cloth, squeeze the juice through, and put 
it over a good fire. When the liquor looks curdy, take it 
off, and strain through a sieve. What remains on the 
sieve is the coloring matter, and the juice that is strained 
off is not used. 

TO BE SERVED IN SOUP. 

Clear soup is much improved by dropping into the 
tureen before serving a number of poached eggs that 
have been cooked in salted water and neatly trimmed 
around, one ^gg being provided for each plate. Slices of 
lemon are sometimes added just before serving the soup, 
one slice for each one at table ; or the same number of 
yolks of hard boiled eggs may be dropped into the soup. 
Fried bread may," if desired, be served with soup. This 
is made by cutting neat slices of bread half an inch 
thick, trimming off the crusts, and dividing the slices into 
half-inch cubes, which are then placed in a frying basket 
and plunged into hot fat ; they should brown at once. 
These cubes may be prepared some time before they are 
needed and set away for use. The hot soup is poured 
over them when served. Crisped crackers are often 
served with vegetable soups and oyster stews and in fish 
chowders. They are first buttered and then browned 
in the oven, with the buttered side up, 

A great many different kinds of fried and baked balls 



SOUPS. 



are ni 



here given, 



79 
ade to be served in soup, and the varieties are 



FORCE-MEAT BALLS. 

One cupful of any kind of cooked meat. 

One salt-spoonful of salt. 

One salt-spoonful of thyme. 

One-half salt-spoonful of pepper. 

One tea-spoonful of lemon juice. 

One tea-spoonful of chopped parsley. 

One table-spoonful of flour. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

Yolk of one raw egg. 

A few drops of onion juice. 

Chop the meat very fine, and add the seasoning ; beat 
the yolk of the tgg and stir it into the meat ; then make 
the mixture into balls the size of nutmegs, place them in 
a soup plate and sprinkle with flour, shaking the plate 
until the balls are all floured. Place the butter in a 
frying-pan, and when it is brown, drop in the balls, and 
shake the pan occasionally until they are brown. 

PROFITEROLES FOR SOUP. 

One gill of water. 
Two gills (scant) of flour. 
One-half gill of butter. 
Two eggs. 

Heat the water to boiling in a small frying-pan, and 
put in the butter, and when the liquid boils again, add 
the flour, turning it in all at one time. Beat the mixture 
well for two or three minutes, being careful not to burn 
it; then turn it into a bowl and set away to cool. When 
cold, add the eggs, one at a time, and' beat the whole 



8o THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

thoroughly at least ten minutes. Butter a cake-pan very 
lightly, and drop the mixture into it in tiny balls. Bake 
ten minutes and set away until time to serve the soup ; 
then place the balls in the tureen after the soup, and 
serve at once. 

EGG BALLS. 

Five eggs. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-tenth tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Boil four of the eggs twenty minutes, and mash the 
yolks to a smooth paste in a bowl ; then add the salt 
and pepper, and the other ^gg well beaten. Shape the 
mass into tiny balls, roll them in flour, and fry brown in 
the frying-pan with a little butter, tossing them about 
while frying to prevent them sticking to the pan. They 
may be made some time before they are needed. 

BOUILLON. 

This soup is served as a first course at luncheons and 
at evening parties in bouillon cups, which are like large 
coffee cups ; or it may be served in coffee or tea cups. 
It may be made with or without vegetables, the latter 
method being the most common. Recipes are given 
for both, the quantities named being sufficient for ten 
persons. 

BOUILLON (without VEGETABLES). 

Six pounds of beef and bone. 
Two quarts of water. 
Salt and pepper. 

Cut the meat in small pieces, saw the bones apart, 



SOUPS. 8 1 

and, adding the cold water, heat slowly and simmer 
five hours in a tightly covered soup kettle. Then strain 
through a fine sieve, season to taste, and when cold, 
remove the fat that has formed. Should there be more 
than ten cupfuls, reduce to that quantity. To be served 
hot. 

BOUILLON (with VEGETABLES). 
Five pounds of round of beef (no bone). 
Two and a-half quarts of water. 
One-haif of a large onion. 
One-half slice of carrot. 
One-half slice of turnip. 
Eight pepper-corns. 
Three Cloves. 
Two eggs (whites only). 
One and a-half inch piece of cinnamon. 
One and a-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
One sprig of parsley. 
One sprig of thyme. 
One sprig of summer savory. 
Two small bay-leaves. , 

One leaf of sage. 
One and a-half stalks of celery. 

Having removed every particle of fat from the meat, 
cut off a pound of the lean and set it aside ; then cut the 
remainder into small pieces, cover with the water, heat 
slowly, and, when boiling, move back on the range where 
it will keep at the bubbling point for six hours. At the 
end of this time add all the seasoning, having the herbs 
tied in a muslin bag ; simmer one hour, remove from the 
fire, strain, and set away to cool. The next morning remove 
any fat that may have collected on the stock. Chop very 
fine the pound of meat that was reserved, and place it in 
the soup on the fire, beating the whites of eggs at the 
6 



82 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

same time and adding them, with the shells, while the 
soup is yet cool. Heat slowly, and when bubbling set 
the soup back, tightly covered, and keep it at this degree 
of heat for one hour. Now add salt, if necessary, and 
strain through a napkin ; the soup is then ready to 
serve. ^ 

AMBER SOUP (cOxNSOMME). 

This is served at almost all company dinners. It is a 
light soup and, therefore, a wise choice. 

Four pounds of the shin of beef, 
j Four pounds of knuckle of veal, or 
\ Three pounds of fowl. 

Four quarts of water. 

Two ounces of lean ham or bacon. 

Six cloves. 

Six pepper corns. 

One bouquet of herbs. 

One table-spoonful of salt. 

Three onions. 

One carrot. 

One turnip. 

Two stalks of celery. 

Two sprigs of parsley. 

Three eggs (whites and shells). 

One salt-spoonful of celery seed. 

One lemon (rind and juice). 

Two table-spoonfuls of tomato ketchup. 

Cut the meat and break the bones into small pieces, re- 
serving one pound of the beef. Place the balance on 
the fire with the water, and simmer six hours. Add the 
vegetables and spices to cook the last two hours, having 
first fried the vegetables in hot fat; also brown the 
pound of beef set aside, and add it with the vegetables. 



socrps. 



83 



When the soup has cooked six hours, strain it, and 
set away to cool. Next morning remove the fat that 
has formed and add tlie well beaten whites of the eggs 
and the shells, and also the celery seed, lemon, salt and 
pepper. Heat slowly to boiling, and cook ten minutes. 
Strain through the finest sieve, add more salt if necessary, 
and heat again before serving. This soup is more often 
served clear than otherwise, but many cooks add boiled 
rice, spaghetti, macaroni or pearl barley just before 
serving. Whatever is added in this line is cooked in 
a separate stew-pan, as the soup would be too much 
diminished in quantity if this thickening were boiled in it 
until done. 

JULIENNE SOUP. 

This soup is served with the vegetables in it. 

Two quarts of stock. * 

One pint of turnip. 

One pint of carrot. 

One pint of celery. 

One pint of fine shredded lettuce. 

One gill of sorrel. 

Four table-spoonfuls of butter. 

Cut the vegetables in slices or in fancy shapes with 
vegetable cutters, and put them in a frying-pan with the 
butter. Set the pan over a quick fire for a few minutes, 
tossing the vegetables about until they are covered with 
a thin glaze, and being careful they do not burn. Now 
draw the pan back on the range where the vegetables 
will cook slowly for twenty minutes, after which, draw 
them to one side of the pan, and press out as much of 
the butter as possible. Meantime place the lettuce in 



84 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

a. cupful of boiling water, boil ten minutes, drain and 
set it in readiness to add to the vegetables as soon as 
done. Then put the vegetables and lettuce in the stock, 
which should be at the boiling point ; add salt and 
pepper, cook gently, tightly covered, for fifteen minutes, 
and serve. 

BEEF SOUP, WITH BARLEY. 

This soup is very frequently made, and as its cost is 
small, it will commend itself to those who have to con- 
sider any outlay, however small. 

Two pounds of round of beef. 

Two quarts of water. 

One onion. 

One slice of carrot. 

One stalk of celery. 

One bay-leaf. 

Two cloves. 

One third of a cupful of pearl barley, 

One table spoonful of butter. 

One table-spoonful of flour. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Remove all the fat from the meat, cut the latter into 
small pieces and chop it finely. Place the meat over the 
fire with the water, heat slowly and let it simmer gently 
three hours. Add the vegetables, and simmer one 
hour longer. Meantime cook the barley very slowly for 
two hours in plenty of water ; then strain the soup, add 
to it the barley, and let all boil up. Put the butter in a 
frying-pan, and when hot, add the flour, stirring until the 
paste is smooth and brown. Turn the paste into the 
soup, season with salt and pepper, and serve. 



SOUPS. 85 

TURKISH SOUP. 

One quart of stock. 
One-half tea-cupful of rice. 
Two eggs (yolks only). 
One table-spoonful of cream. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 

Boil the rice and stock together for twenty minutes, 
keeping the kettle tightly covered. Press them through 
a sieve, returning to the fire all that runs through. Add 
to this the cream, into which has been stirred the 
beaten yolks ; and cook for two or three minutes, stirring 
all the time to prevent burning. Season and serve at 
once. 

MOCK TURTLE SOUP, 

The basis of this soup is calf's-head, one head making 
six quarts of soup. This, may seem a large quantity 
of soup to make at one time, but it will keep well. Half 
of a head cannot be bought, so it is necessary to make 
the full quantity. 

One calfs head 

Six pounds of the shin of veal. 

Eight quarts of water ^ 

Two table-spoonfuls of chopped carrot. 

Two table-spoonfuls of chopped turnip. 

Four table-spoonfuls of butter. 

Six table-spoonfuls of arrow-root. 

Three table-spoonfuls of ketchup. 

Three stalks of celery.^ 

One-half blade of mace. 

Ten cloves. 

Twenty pepper-corns. 

One bay-leaf. 



86 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Two lemons. 

One glass of sherry. 

One small piece of cinnamon. 

Have the butcher split and scrape the head and saw 
the bone of the veal into several pieces. Wash all care- 
fully. Place the head in a large pan and soak it for tVvO 
hours, keeping it covered with cold water ; then take it 
out, drain thoroughly, remove the brains, place the head 
and shin of veal in the soup-kettle with the water, heat 
slowly, and keep at the boiling point for three hours. 
At the expiration of this time skim out the shin of veal, 
and also remove the head, being careful not to break it. 
Strain the stock, and place all but two quarts aside to 
cool. Return the two quarts to the kettle with the shin 
of veal, add the spices, cover tightly, and permit the 
whole to simmer slowly. Fry the vegetables gently in 
the butter for twenty minutes, browning them at the last ; 
and, adding them to the veal, simmer four hours. 
Strain the stock, and set it away to cool. In the morning 
remove the fat, and place the two quantities of stock 
together on the fire with the ketchup, salt and pepper ; 
and when all boils up, add the lemon-juice, the wine and 
the face of the calf's head, cut in strips. Thin slices of 
lemon cut in quarters, egg-balls or force-meat balls 
should be put in the tureen before the soup is turned in, 
if one would serve it correctly. 

OX-TAIL SOUP. 

This is an inexpensive soup, as the tails can generally 
be purchased for a very small sum. 

Two ox-tails. 

Four quarts of water. 



SOUPS. 87 

One soup bunch. 

One onion (sliced). 

Two carrots. 

One stalk of celery. 

Two sprigs of parsley. 

One slice of pork. 

Three cloves. 

Salt and pepper to suit. 

Wash and unjoint the tails, and crack the bones, if 
possible. Slice the uegetables, and, mincing the pork, 
place it in a stew-pan to heat. When hot, add the onion 
to brown. Fry the tails also in this fat for a short time, 
and place them in the soup-kettle with the water. Sim- 
mer four hours, add the other vegetables, and when 
these are very tender, the soup has cooked sufficiently. 
Now strain the soup, and, having chosen a number of 
the joints, one for each plate, trim them nicely and set 
ihe whole away. The next day remove the fat from the 
soup, season with salt, pepper, and ketchup or Worcester- 
shire sauce, as preferred, and return the joints saved for 
the purpose. Heat when needed for the table. 

MULLIGATAWNY SOUP. 

This is an Indian soup, and is served at many hotels 
and restaurants. It may be made with either veal, calf's 
head, chicken or rabbit, or with two or more of these in 
combination. It is highly seasoned with onions, curry 
powder and sour apples, lemons or some other strong 
acid fruit. The best portions of the meat are removed as 
soon as tender and served with the soup. Boiled rice 
should always accompany Mulligatawny, served sepa- 
rately 



88 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Four pounds of veal. 

One-half pound of ham. 

Four quarts of water. 

One carrot. 

Two onions. 

One turnip. 

Four cloves. 

Four pepper-corns. 

Six apples (sliced) 

Three table-spoonfuls of curry powder. 

One tea-spoonful of sugar. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Have the bone of the veal well broken, and place the 
veal in the soup-kettle with the ham and the water. Fry 
the onions brown in a little butter, and put them with the 
meat, adding at the same time the sliced apples, vege- 
tables, cloves, pepper-corns, and the sugar and curry 
powder mixed to a paste with a little water. Simmer 
gently for five hours, then strain and set away to cool. 
Remove any fat that forms, and return to the range, 
placing in the soup at the same time a piece of the veal 
for each plate. When the whole is thoroughly heated, 
season with salt and pepper and serve. 

TURKEY-BONE SOUP. 

Never throw away the carcass of a turkey or chicken, 
for it will make a delicious soup. There are always 
portions of the meat adhering to the bones, the neck is 
generally left, and the " drumsticks," or the ends of the 
wings often remain ; and all these can go to form a soup 
for the next day's dinner, or for luncheon. Scrape the 
meat from the bones and lay aside any nice pieces. 
Remove the filling separately, break the bones, pack 



SOUPS. 89 

them in a kettle, and cover with cold water, adding a 
small onion. Cover closely and simmer very gently for 
three hours. Then strain and remove the fat, and return 
to the fire. For every quart of stock add one cup- 
ful of the cold meat and three-quarters of a cupful of 
the filling, after which let the soup simmer half an hour, 
and serve. If there should be rnore of the meat left 
over, it can be used for making an entree. This soup 
may be greatly improved by boiling in it three minutes 
before serving ten oysters to each quart of soup made. 

WHITE SOUP-STOCK 

is made from veal or chicken and seasoned with onion, 
celery salt and white pepper, everything being avoided 
that will add color to it. It may be thickened with rice, 
arrow-root, corn-starch or the white meat of the chicken, 
chopped fine ; and is often made even richer by the 
addition of milk or cream. 

WHITE SOUP, (from VEAL.) 

Four pounds of knuckle of veal. 

Three quarts of water. 

One table-spooiifui of salt. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

Two table-spoonfuls of corn-starch. 

One pint of milk. 

Six pepper-corns. 

Two small onions. 

Two stalks of celery. 

One salt-spoonful of celery salt. 

One-half salt-spoonful of white pepper. 

Cut the veal into small pieces, and place it in the 
kettle with the water. Heat slowly and skim, and then 



90 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

add the salt, pepper-corns, onions and celery. Let the 
stock simmer for five hours, strain, and when cold 
remove the fat that may have formed ; then place the 
stock over the fire, and when it is bubbling hot, thicken 
with the corn-starch, first wetting the starch with a little 
cold stock or water. Season with the butter, salt and 
pepper, and at the last turn in the milk, heated to 
boiling point in a farina-kettle. This should make 
but two quarts of soup, and the stock should be 
boiled down to a pint and a-half before the milk is 
added — provided, of course, the stock exceeds that quan- 
tity. 

SOUP WITHOUT STOCK. 

To make this the housewife need have little experi- 
ence of her own, provided she follows the directions 
carefully. Most soup without stock is quickly made and, 
therefore, commends itself highly to the cook who is 
pressed for time. 

TOMATO SOUP. 

For this take equal parts of tomato and water. If 
fresh tomatoes are available, pour boiling hot water upon 
them to loosen the skins, and having removed these by 
plunging the tomatoes quickly into cold water after they 
have stood one minute in the hot water, cut the toma- 
toes in slices to more accurately measure them, and allow 
as above. Cook the water and tomato rather slowly for 
half an hour, and strain through a fine wire sieve, such 
as is commonly used for sifting flour, pulping through all 
the soft part of the vegetable and leaving only the seeds 
in the sieve. Return to the fire, and season with butter, 



sorps. 91 

salt and pepper. Thicken the soup with a Uttie corn- 
starch wet in some of the soup, allowing one table-spoon- 
ful of starch to every three pints of soup. Boiled rice, 
macaroni or vermicelli may be added, with good effect. 

MOCK-BISQUE SOUP. 

One pint of tomato. 

One quart of milk. 

One large table-spoonful of butter. 

One large table-spoonful of corn-starch. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of soda. 

One tea-spoonful of sugar. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Boil the tomatoes alone half an hour, adding the 
seasoning and soda. When the tomatoes are soft, pulp 
them through a fine sieve as directed in the preceding 
recipe. Heat the milk in a farina-kettle, or in a tin 
pail set in a kettle of water, and when it is scalding 
thicken it with the corn-starch wet with a little cold milk. 
If ready to serve, add the boiling milk to the tomatoes, 
stir and dish at once. This soup must not go on the fire 
after the milk and tomatoes are put together or the milk 
will curdle. If the soup is made before it is needed, let 
the tomato and milk remain in separate vessels, and mix 
them JList before sending to table. 

CRAB AND TOMATO BISQUE 

is made like the above, except that a pint of crab meat is 
added to the milk, and after the milk is thickened and 
cooked three minutes, the whole is turned into the toma- 
toes. Canned crab meat may be used when the fresh is 
not available. 



92 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

BEAN SOUP. 

One pint of beans. 
Two quarts of water. 
One table-spoonful of butter. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 

The " scarlet runners " are the best beans for soup. 
Soak the beans over night in three quarts of cold water, 
and next morning drain and add two quarts of water. 
Cook the beans slowly for three hours, stirring . fre- 
quently ; and when they are soft, pulp them through a 
fine wire sieve, leaving only the skins in the sieve. 
Return to the kettle, add the seasoning,' cook ten minutes 
longer, and serve. Dish with toasted or fried bread. 

CORN SOUP. 

\ One can of corn, or 

/ One pint cut fresh from the cob. 

Two and a-half pints of milk. 

Three table-spoonfuls of butter. 

Two table-spoonfuls of flour, 

One table-spoonful of chopped onion, 

Two eggs (the yolks only). 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Mash the corn as fine as possible and cook it fifteen 
minutes in one quart of the milk placed in a double 
boiler. Cook the onion in the butter in a frying-pan for 
ten minutes, then add the flour, and cook until the mixture 
becomes frothy, being careful not to brown it. Stir this 
into the corn and milk, add salt and pepper, and cook 
ten minutes longer. At the end of this time rub the 
soup through a fine sieve and return it to the fire. Beat 
the yolks of the eggs well, add to them the half pint of 



SOUPS. 93 

milk remaining, and stir the liquid into the soup. Cook 
one minute longer, stirring all the time, and serve at 
once. When fresh corn is at hand, many cooks break 
the cobs into small pieces and boil them thirty minutes 
in enough water to cover them, and they add this water 
to the corn while cooking in the milk. There should in 
no instance be more than a pint of this liquid for the 
above quantity, and three table-spoonfuls of flour will be 
added instead of two, to give the soup the desired con- 
sistence. 

CELERY SOUP. 

One head of celery. 

One pint of water. 

One pint of milk. 

One table-spoonful of chopped onion. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One table-spoonful of flour. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

This is a good way to utilize the portions of celery 
that are not presentable for the table. Cut the celery 
into half-inch lengths, and boil it in the water until soft, 
mashing it as much as possible. Cook the onion ten 
minuteis in the milk in a double boiler, and add both to 
the celery. Rub the whole through a fine sieve, and 
return to the fire ; then make a paste of the butter and 
flour, stir it into the boiling soup, season and serve. 

NOODLE SOUP. 

Three pints of milk. 

Three table-spoonfuls of flour. 

Noodles. 

One slice of onion. 

A bit of mace. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 



94 THE PA rTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Pal all but a cupful of the milk on the stove in a 
double boiler, placing the onion and mace in the milk. 
Mix the flour and cold milk together until smooth, and 
stir this paste into the boiling milk/ Next add the sea- 
soning and cook for fifteen minutes, then put in the 
noodles, and cook five minutes more. 

NOODLES FOR SOUP. 

Beat with one egg a half-cupful of flour and one-fourth 
of a tea-spoonful of salt. Work this dough with the hands 
until it becomes smooth and like putty ; then roll it 
as thin as a wafer on a well floured mouldmg-board. Let 
this sheet of dough lie for five minutes, after which 
roll it up loosely, and with a sharp knife cut it from the 
end into very thin slices, forming little wheels or curls. 
Spread these pieces on the board to dry for half an hour 
— even longer will do no harm. Next cook them 
twenty-five minutes in boiling salted water, and drain 
thoroughly in a colander, when they are ready for use in 
soup. 

OYSTER SOUP. 

One quart of oysters. 
Three pints of milk. 
Butter, salt and pepper to taste. 

Place the oysters on the fire in their own liquor, and let 
them gently simmer until their edges *' ruffle." At the 
same time put the milk on to heat in a double boiler, 
and when it is at the scalding point, turn it over the 
oysters. Let the soup stand one minute, skim well with 
a fine skimmer, season and serve at once. If a richer 
soup be desired, allow equal quantities of milk and 



SOUPS. 95 

oysters. Many cooks place a blade of mace in the milk 
before scalding, but this is a matter of taste. 

CL4M SOUP. 

One-half peck of clams, in the shells. 

Two eggs. 

One pint of milk. 

Butter, pepper and salt to suit the taste. 

Wash the shells thoroughly, using a fine brush to rid 
them of all the sand in the seams, and place them in a 
hot oven in a pan, when the shells will quickly open ; 
then extract the meat and chop it rather finely. Heat the 
clam liquor, adding whatever may be in the pan ; and 
when it is at the boiling point, add the chopped 
clams. Heat again, remove all the scum that will arise, 
and add the butter and pepper and a little salt. Heat 
the milk in a double boiler, reserving half a cupful of it. 
Now beat the eggs well, turn them into th6 cold milk, 
mix thoroughly, stir the whole into the boiling milk, and 
pour at once into the tureen. Next turn in the boiled 
clams, which should have been cooking slowly not more 
than five minutes. The milk and clams should never be 
put over the fire together, or the milk will curdle. 



FISH. 

" How many things by season, seasoned are 
To their right praise and true perfection." 

Shakspere. 

Fish being abundant, cheap and wholesome, is invalu- 
able as food. It is a delicious adjunct to any dinner 
table, and in many families suffices for a good dinner by 
itself ; but it requires nice and careful cooking. . Nothing 
is more unappetizing than a piece of underdone fish; in- 
deed, no food requires so much delicacy in handling and 
dressing, for if it is not perfectly fresh, perfectly cleaned 
and thoroughly cooked, it is not fit to appear on the table. 

Salmon is the richest of fish, being even richer and 
more nutritious than meat. Red-blooded fish, like 
salmon, mackerel and blue-fish, have the oil distributed 
through the body. They are too rich for invalids, and 
should be eaten sparingly by people who are not very 
strong. White fish has the oil in the liver, and is conse- 
quently more digestible. 

TO CLEAN A FISH, 

remove the scales before opening, and scrape with a 
sharp knife from tail to head, holding the knife fiat and 
slanting, and scraping slowly. Split the fish open, if a 

96 



FISH. 



97 



large one, from the gills half-way down the lower part of 
the body ; remove the entrails, and scrape and clean the 
inside, removing all the blood from the back-bone. If 
the fish has been scaled and cleaned by the dealer, it 
should always be scraped again about the head and tail, 
for scales are sure to be found on these parts. The 
blood and dark substance found on the back-bone should 
also be scraped off. If the fish is to be boiled or baked, 
the tail and head are left on, and the fins removed. The 
fish should be washed carefully in cold water, and dried 
before cooking. Fish that have a strong flavor, like 
sturgeon, catfish or sword-fish, should be soaked a few 
hours in strongly salted water. Use as little water as 
possible in cleansing fish ; and the more expeditious the 
work is done at this point the better will be the flavor of 
the fish, since water draws out the juices of most fish if 
they are permitted to soak in it. 

Frozen fish should be well thawed out in cold water be- 
fore using. Salt fish should be soaked in fresh water with 
the skin side upward, to draw out the salt. Fish should 
not be placed in the ice-chest near milk or butter, as these 
articles are very easily tainted. 

TO SKIN A FISH, 

cut a thin strip down the back, taking ofif the fin ; and 
open the lower part half-way down. Then slip the knife 
under and up through the bony part of the gills, and, 
holding this bony part between the thumb and finger, 
strip the skin off toward the tail. Treat the other side in 
the same way. Catfish and eels are always skinned 
before they are eaten. 
7 



98 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

FILLETS OF FISH 

are the jfiesh separated from the bone and served in dif- 
ferent ways. In flounders, chicken halibut and bass the 
fillets on each side are divided lengthwise. They may be 
served in the form in which they are cut, or they may be 
rolled and fastened with a small skewer. 

Fish that are long and slender are served on long, 
slender platters. Boiled and fried fish are often brought 
to table on a napkin ; the latter is folded the length and 
width of the fish, and placed on the serving dish, the fish 
being laid upon it. When the dish is large enough, a 
sauce is poured around the fish, no napkin being used in 
this case ; and the head and tail are garnished with 
parsley. Fillets of fish, when rolled, are arranged in a 
circle on the dish, the sauce being poured in the center. 
When not rolled, they are .heaped in a pyramid in the 
center of the dish ; or they may be arranged in a circle, 
one fillet overlapping another. The center is then filled 
with sauce. 

FISH, BOILED. 

To boil fish properly, a fish kettle is almost indispen- 
sable (see " Kitchen Utensils "), as the fish can then be 
easily lifted out without risk of breaking it. If there is 
no fish kettle, wrap the fish well in a good-sized piece of 
cheese-cloth, pinning the lap securely ; if care be exer- 
cised, it can be nicely lifted out by the cloth. Another 
way is to arrange the fish in a circle on a plate, and tie a 
napkin around the whole ; when the fish is boiled, lift it 
out by the napjcin. 

Fish to boil should be rubbed with a little vinegar 



FISH. 



99 



before being placed in the water ; and the water should 
be salted, and made acid by the addition of lemon juice 
or vinegar. This whitens the fish and makes the flakes 
firm, and also imparts a very delicate flavoring to it. 
Fish that is to be served with the skin on should not be 
put in cold water to boil, else the juices will be drawn 
out and the fish rendered insipid ; and yet many kinds of 
fish have such a delicate skin, that it contracts and breaks 
if put in hot water, thus greatly detracting from the appe- 
tizing appearance of the fish. The best method is to put 
into the fish kettle half as much cold water as is required, 
place the fish in it, and then gradually add boiling water 
until the fish is covered, care being taken not to pour the 
hot water directly upon the fish. In this way the skin 
contracts slowly and does not break. Mackerel, trout, 
striped bass, etc., should always be treated in this man- 
ner. Fish that have a thick, tough skin can be put into 
"water that is at the boiling point, but not bubbling. 
Halibut, sturgeon or any fish that is not served with the 
skin on should be placed into boiling water. The water 
should, never boil rapidly, for if it does, the fish will be 
broken and thus rendered unsightly. Too much cooking 
makes the fibres dry and woolly, but fish should be 
cooked until the flakes will separate easily. (See 
"Cook's Time-Table" for the proper length of time 
to boil.) A sauce should always be served with boiled 
fish, otherwise it will prove a decidedly tame and unat- 
tractive course. (See " Sauces for Fish.") 

c 

TO BOIL AU COURT BOUILLON. 

This is a favorite way of boiling a fish^ and should 
have an English title that would suggest the really easy 



lOO THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

manner of the work, instead of this elaborate French 
name. It is simply boiling the fish in water, flavored 
with vegetables. Fry in a little butter one onion, one 
stalk of celery and three sprigs of parsley. Then add 
the following : 

Two table-spoonfuls of salt. 

Six pepper-corns. 

One bay-leaf. 

Three cloves. 

Two quarts of boiling water. 

One pint of vinegar or sour wine. 

Boil for fifteen minutes, skim well, strain, and boil the fish 
in the liquid. First rub the fish with lemon juice and 
salt, then place it in a kettle, and cover it with the court 
bouillon, and boil it slowly until done. Serve the fish 
with a sauce, the same as if it were plainly boiled. This 
court bouillon is easily preserved and may be used several 
times. 

FISH, BAKED. 

Cod, haddock, cusk, blue-fish, shad, red-snappers, 
white fish, trout and many other kinds of fish are stuffed 
and baked whole. Instead of the wire rack used for 
roasting meat, have a thick sheet of tin, with rings at the 
ends for handles, and large enough to fit into the dripping- 
pan. A simple sheet of tin may be used, without handles. 
By this means the fish can be easily lifted out and slipped 
into the serving dish. If a sheet of tin is not at hand, 
put two broad strips of cotton cloth across the pan before 
laying the fish in it, and when the latter is done lift it out 
by means of the cloth. Rub the sheet well with fat pork 
to keep the fish from sticking to it, and also place pieces 



FISH. 10 1 

of the pork under the fish itself. The following varieties 
of stuffing will be found satisfactory for filling fish for 
baking. 

CRACKER STUFFING. 

One cupful of cracker-crumVjs. 
Two-thirds cupful of water or milk. 
One tea-spoonful of salt. 
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 
One tea-spoonful of chopped parsley. 
One tea-spoonful of chopped onion. 
One table-spoonful of capers. 
Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 
One table-spoonful of lemon juice. 

Rub the butter into the cracker-crumbs, add all the 
seasoning, and then stir in the water or milk. This 
makes a crumbly stuffing. 

STALE BREAD STUFFING. 

One and one-half cupful of grated bread-crumbs. 

One-half cupful of milk. 

One table-spoonful of chopped onion. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-fourth tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Add the seasoning and butter to the crumbs, and beat 
in the milk last. This stuffing is more commonly made 
than the last. 

OYSTER STUFFING. 

One pint of oysters. 

One cupful of powdered cracker-crumbs. 

One-half table-spoonful of chopped onion. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One tea-spoonful of chopped parsley. 



102 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

CIiop the oysters fine, and add to them the other 
ingredients, mixing well. 

Fish will bake more evenly and may be more easily 
managed in every way, if placed upright in the pan 
instead of on their sides. Each fish may be propped up 
with pared potatoes or a cut of stale bread placed on 
each side. Fish, however, that are long and narrow may 
be readily tied into the shape of the letter S, thus : Hav- 
ing threaded a long needle with twine, tie the end of the 
twine around the head of the fish, fastening it tightly; 
then pass the needle through the center part of the body, 
draw the string tight, and fasten it around the tail. Fish 
thus tied will retain the shape after they are baked. 

A fish that is to be baked should be rubbed with salt, 
both outside and inside ; then stufT and fasten the rent or 
opening together wdth a skewer or with a needle and thread. 
Rub soft butter all over the fish, dredge it thickly with 
flour, and lay on the top narrow strips of fat salt pork. 
Now pour in the pan just enough boiling water to cover 
the bottom, and bake the fish in a hot oven. Baste 
every ten minutes with the gravy in the pan and a little 
butter, and lightly dredge at each basting with salt, 'pep- 
per and flour. When the fish is done, remove the 
skewer or strings, and place the fish on the serving dish. 
Set the pan on top of the stove, add water to the 
gravy until there is a full pint in the pan, and thicken 
with one table-spoonful of flour wet to a paste with a 
little water ; then cook the gravy three minutes, season 
to taste with salt and pepper, strain through a sieve and 
pour it around the fish. If the sediment in the pan seems 
at all burnt, do not use it, but make instead a brown sauce, 
and pour it around the fish. (See " Sauces for Fish,") 



PISH. to3 

FISH, BAKED WITH TOMATOES. 

When placing the fish in the oven put in the bottom of 
the pan four table-spoonfuls of chopped tomatoes, either 
fresh or canned; and baste the fish with them, adding 
water as usual. Care should be taken that the pan does 
not become dry, for the tomatoes will soon stick to it. 
The gravy is made as directed above, but if by any acci- 
dent the tomatoes have become scorched, serve a made 
tomato sauce with the fish. (See " Sauces for Fish.") 
This is a very delicious way of serving baked haddock. 

BAKED BLUE-FISH. 

This fish is one of the most satisfactory varieties for 
baking. It should be stuffed with a bread stuffing and 
served with a cream sauce. (See " Sauces for Fish.") 

BAKED SHAD. 

Open the shad only far enough to remove the roe, and 
follow the directions given for " Baked Fish." Serve the 
roe on a small platter, giving a portion to each person 
with the fish. Roe is cooked in different ways, three of 
which are given below. 

BAKED ROE. 

Drop the roe gently into salted boiling water, and let it 
boil twenty minutes, but not rapidly. Drain, and lay it on 
a buttered tin plate. Dredge the roe well with pepper 
and salt, spread soft butter over it, and lastly dredge 
plentifully with flour. Bake in the oven thirty minutes, 
during "which time baste frequently with salt, pepper, 
water and butter, always dredging with flour after each 
basting. 



104 ^-^^ PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

FRIED ROE. 

Cook the roe ten minutes in boiling salted water to 
which a table-spoonful of vinegar has been added. 
Drain, roll it ip beaten egg and then in cracker-crumbs — 
season with salt and pepper, and fry until brown in hot 
fat. 

SCALLOPED ROE. 

Boil as for fried roe, drain, and break the roe up 
lightly with a fork. Make a white sauce (See " Sauces 
for Fish.") Sprinkle a layer of roe in a baking dish ; add 
half the yolk of an ^gg^ well beaten, dropping it over the 
top of the roe ; next sprinkle lightly with finely chopped 
parsley ; salt and pepper to taste and a few drops of 
lemon juice, and then add a layer of the white sauce. 
Repeat the layers of roe, egg, seasoning and sauce, cover 
with bread-crumbs and bits of butter, and bake until 
brown. If a large dish is required, use with the roe any 
cold flaked fish left from a former meal. Various kinds 
of roe may be prepared the same as shad roe. 

HALIBUT a la Creola. 

Four pounds of fish. 

One cupful of water. 

One pint of stewed tomatoes. 

One slice of onion. 

Three cloves. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

One table-spoonful of flour. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Put the tomatoes, water, cloves and onion on the 



FISH. 105 

Stove in a stew-pan to boil. Mix the butter and flour 
together, stir them into the sauce when it boils, and add 
the salt and pepper. Cook ten minutes, and strain into a 
bowl. Pour into a deep plate boiling water to the depth 
of half an inch, and lay the fish in it for a minute, black- 
skin side down ; on removing the fish from the water 
the black skin can be easily taken off. Wash the fish in 
cold water, season with salt and pepper and lay it on 
the baking sheet in a dripping-pan ; then pour half the 
tomato sauce around the fish, and bake in a hot oven 
forty-five minutes, basting three times with the remainder 
of the tomato sauce. Serve with the sauce remaining in 
the bottom of the pan poured around the dish. 

CARBONADE OF HALIBUT OR WHITE FISH. 

Any fish from which solid slices of flesh can be cut 
may be used for a carbonade. The two varieties men. 
tioned above are delicious prepared in this way. 

Two pounds of fish. 

Two eggs. 

One pint of dried bread-crumbs. 

Four table-spoonfuls of butter. 

One tea-spoonful of onion juice. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of salt. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Cut the fish into pieces about three inches square and 
one inch thick. Place the butter, salt, pepper and onion 
juice in a deep plate on the back of the range, and melt 
the butter ; beat the eggs until light in another plate, and 
put a part of the crumbs in a third plate. Dip the 
pieces of fish first in the melted butter, then in the egg 
and lastly in the crumbs, and lay them in a dripping-pan 



I06 THE PATTERN C0OA^-BOOA\ 

that has been buttered on the bottom, sprhikling what 
remains of the egg and butter over the carbonades. 
Cook in a hot oven for twelve or fifteen minutes, and 
serve with HoUandaise, Tartare or maitre d'hotel sauce. 
(See " Sauces for Fish. ") 

RAKED SALT MACKEREL. 

Wash a salt mackerel well and soak it over night in 
three quarts of cold water, laying it with the skin side 
upward. In the morning lay the fish on its back in a 
shallow baking tin (not too large for the fish), and pour 
over it a pint of milk. Bake twenty minutes in a hot 
oven, stirring into the milk at the end of fifteen minutes 
a table-spoonful each of flour and butter, and a sprink- 
ling of pepper, all rubbed together into a smooth paste. 
Serve with the thickened milk poured around the fish. 
This makes a very palatable breakfast dish. 

FRIED FISH. 

Mackerel, salmon, blue-fish or any oily fish should 
never be fried. Smelts, perch and other small pan fish 
are fried whole. Cod, halibut, etc., should be skinned 
and cut in slices an iiich thick and two or three inches 
square. Flounders and bass may be cut in fillets^ if 
desired. When fish has been kept near ice or is frozen, 
it should be warmed gently before being fried, that 
which is frozen being laid in cold water to thaw ; other- 
wise the fish would chill the fat and become greasy. 
Enough fat should be used to cover the fish nicely. The 
frying basket should be used for smelts. Test the fat 
before using it by throwing in a crumb of bread; if 



FTSH. 107 

the bread browns in half a minute, the fat is hot 
enough. 

To prepare fish for frying, clean and dry them, season 
with salt and pepper and dredge with flour , then dip 
them into beaten ^gg^ and roll in fine brea.d or 
cracker-crumbs. If this does not cover them completely, 
repeat the process. Smelts are not split open and 
cleaned, but the entrails are squeezed out carefully, so 
as not to bruise the fish ; and the heads are not 
removed. The smelts are washed as quickly as possible 
and then dried, no attempt being made to scale them. 
All fried fish should be thoroughly drained before being 
served. Another way of preparing fish for frying is to 
pepper and salt them and roll them in salted corn 
meal. 

FRIED EELS. 

Skin the eels (if this has not already been done by the 
fishmonger), cut them into four-inch lengths, and season 
with salt and pepper. Then roll them in salted corn 
meal, and fry. 

BROILED FISH. 

Shad, white fish, blue-fish, young cod, haddock and 
many other kinds of fish are preferred by many broiled. 
A dry fish should be dipped in melted butter before 
broiling. In broiling whole fish, like shad, split them the 
entire length, wash quickly in water, and dry. Rub the 
bars of a double wire broiler with butter, and place the 
fish in it. Dredge with salt, pepper and flour, and place 
over a clear but not fierce fire, the inside of the fish 
being turned toward the fire first. Watch it carefully, 



I08 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

and turn frequently. On taking the broiler from the fire 
let it rest upon a dish, loosen the fish from the wires on 
both sides by slipping a knife between the fish and the 
wires ; then raise the broiler with the skin side of the fish 
up, and fold the broiler together on the under side, leav- 
ing the fish on top. Place a warm platter upside down 
over the fish upon the broiler, and turn broiler, fish and 
platter over together. Lift the broiler, leaving the fish 
in the center of the platter. Serve with butter, squeezing 
a few drops of lemon-juice over the fish, if desired. 
Shad is sometimes served with a cream or Bechamel 
sauce. 

OTHER MODES OF DRESSING FISH. 
SALT CODFISH IN CREAM. 

One and a-half pint of fish. 

One pint of milk. 

One egg. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

One table-spoonful of flour or corn-starch. 

One-third tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Wash the fish, tear it into bits, and covering it with 
cold water, let it soak over night. In the morning pour 
off the water, and place the fish on the fire in a frying- 
pan, adding enough fresh cold water to cover it. When 
the water reaches the boiling point, draw the pan back 
where it will keep hot for fifteen minutes, at the end of 
which time the fish should be cooked sufficiently. Rapid 
boiling hardens salt fish, so the cooking can scarcely be 
too slow. Drain the fish well, and place it in a double 
boiler with the milk ; or if great care be taken, the milk 
can be poured over the fish in the pan. If the latter mode 
is preferred, the milk must be stirred incessantly, or it 



FISH. 109 

will scorch. When the milk is at boiling heat, stir in 
the flour and butter, well rubbed together ; or if corn- 
starch is used, it should be first wet with a little cold 
milk. Cook slowly for five minutes, season with pepper 
and a little salt, if needed, and, drawing the fish away 
from the heat, stir in the beaten egg thinned with one 
table-spoonful of milk. Let the whole stand two min- 
utes, and serve on a hot platter, 

FISH CHOWDER, 

Cut a pound of salt pork into strips, and soak it in 
hot water for five minutes. Place a layer of pork in 
the bottom of a large tin pail. Cut four pounds of sea- 
bass or cod into pieces two inches square, and lay enough 
of the fish upon the pork to cover it. Follow with a 
layer of raw sliced potatoes, then a thin layer of chopped 
onion, a little parsley, summer savory or any herb of that 
sort ; and salt and pepper lightly. Next add a layer of 
Boston crackers or pilot or sea biscuits, broken rather fine. 
Then begin again with a layer of pork, and repeat in the 
same order until all the fish is used, having crackers 
on top. Pour over the whole enough water to cover it, 
place the cover on the pail, and set the latter in a large 
kettle of boiling water. Let it simmer slowly three 
hours, or less if the fish and potatoes are already cooked, 
and serve with slices of lemon. 

CODFISH BALLS. 

One quart of raw sliced potatoes. 

One large cupful of salt fish. 

One egg. 

Two table-spoonfuls of cream or milk, 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 



1 10 THE FA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Pick all the bones from the fish, shredding the latter 
finely; and slowly boil the fish and the sliced potatoes 
together in plenty of water, until the potatoes are soft. 
Mash both together, and beat until fine and light; then 
add the seasoning, butter and milk, and the ^gg well 
beaten, mixing all thoroughly with a spoon. Have 
plenty of very hot fat in the frying-pan, and into it drop 
the mixture, a table-spoonful at a time. Do not use the 
hands to form the cakes into balls, as is sometimes done, 
and do not flour the cakes. Made in 'this way they 
will be found very delicate and light ; in fact, cooks 
who have tried this method will never return to the 
old way of making. 

SALT MACKEREL. 

Clean the fish by scraping off any rusty-looking part 
and the thin black membrane found on the inside, and 
lay it over night in plenty of cold water, with the skin 
side up. In the morning place the fish in a frying-pan 
on the fire, cover with fresh water, and slowly heat to the 
boiling point. Drain off this water, add just enough 
fresh water to cook the fish, and boil slowly until tender. 
Lift the mackerel out carefully (a pancake shovel v\^ill be 
found most convenient for such work), and place it on 
the serving dish in the oven to keep hot while the gravy 
is being prepared. This is made as follows : drain off 
the water left in the frying-pan after the removal of the 
fish, until there is a half-pint remaining, and pour into 
the pan a pint of milk. When the liquid boils, add three 
table-spoonfuls of flour stirred to a paste with two table- 
spoonfuls of butter, and seasoned with salt and pepper. 
Let the gravy boil slowly three or four minutes, stirring 



FISH. 1 1 I 

constantly; then pour it over the mackerel. This sauce 
should not be lumpy, but smooth as cream. Mackerel 
cooked in this way makes a very acceptable breakfast 
dish. 

CANNED SALMON. 

The California canned salmon is one of the greatest 
successes achieved by the canner's art. By always keep- 
ing a few cans of this fish in the house, the housewife will 
be able at a moment's notice to prepare an appetizing 
dish for breakfast or luncheon. One can of salmon will 
be sufficient for six persons. Place the salmon in a small 
frying-pan, and pour enough milk over the fish to nearly 
cover it. Cover the frying-pan, and let its contents sim- 
mer slowly, being careful to keep the milk just at the bub- 
bling point. Now thicken the milk with a table-spoonful 
of corn-starch wet with a little cold milk, adding a small 
quantity at a time to the boiling milk, so the latter will 
not become too thick. Often all the corn-starch will not 
be needed, the quantity, of course, depending on the 
amount of milk used on the fish ; but enough thickening 
should be added to make the milk like cream. Season 
with salt, pepper and butter, and serve on a hot platter. 
This preparation is sometimes served on nicely toasted 
bread, making a very attractive-looking dish. 

TO COOK frogs' legs. 

The hind legs of frogs are the only part used for food. 
They are usually sold ready for cooking, but in some 
places they are to be purchased just as taken from the 
frogs. In this case strip off the skin carefully to avoid 
tearing the tender flesh, wash the legs in cold water, and 



1 1 2 THE FA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

dry them well on a towel or napkin. Season with salt, 
pepper and lemon juice. For six legs, thoroughly beat 
up one egg, and season it with salt and pepper ; dip the 
legs into the ^^g, then into dried bread-crumbs or fine 
cracker-crumbs, plunge them into boiling fat, and fry for 
five minutes. They can be sauteed in a frying-pan, but 
are not then so nice as when cooked with plenty of fat. 
Use the wire frying-basket for them, if you have one. 
Frogs' legs are served for breakfast or luncheon, and for 
the latter they are accompanied by Tartar sauce. (See 
"Sauces for Fish.") 

FISH REMNANTS. 

The "left-over " portions of cold boiled or baked fish 
may be used in many ways. The fish should be freed 
from skin and bones and flaked. 

CUSK a la Creme. 

One pint of cold, flaked fish. 

One pint of milk. 

Two eggs (yolks only). 

One small slice of onion. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

Two table-spoonfuls of flour. 

One bay-leaf. 

One sprig of parsley. 

One blade of mace. 

A little salt and pepper. 

Place the milk, mace, onion, parsley and bay-leaf 
together on the fire in a double boiler, or in a tin 
pail set in a kettle of hot water. Rub the butter and 
flour together, stir them into the milk when it has 
boiled, and cook three minutes. Add the beaten 



FISH. I I 3 

yolks, which have been thinned with a table-spoonful of 
cold milk ; boil one minute, remove from the fire and 
strain, adding salt and pepper to taste. Arrange a layer 
of this sauce in the bottom of a baking dish, then a layer 
of fish, next a layer of sauce, and so on until all the 
sauce and fish have been used, placing a layer of sauce 
on top. Sprinkle the top with bread-crumbs and tiny dots 
of butter, and bake in a hot oven until brown. Serve in 
the dish in which it was baked. 

FISH a la Reine. 

One pint of cold flaked fish. 

One-half pint of milk or cream. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One table-spoonful of flour. 

One table-spoonful of chopped parsley. 

One egg (yolk only). 

Three chopped mushrooms, if you have them. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Put the butter in the frying-pan, and when it melts add 
the flour; then gradually add the milk, stirring thor- 
oughly. As soon as the milk boils turn in the fish, mush- 
rooms, salt and pepper, and cook the wdiole very slowly 
until the fish is thoroughly heated. Beat the yolk of egg 
lightly, add a table-spoonful of milk to thin it, and add 
the parsley and ^^^ to the fish, stirring the mixture well 
together for a minute, when it is ready to serve. 

FISH CROQUETTES. 

One pint of cold, flaked fish. 
One pint of hot mashed potatoes. 
One table-spoonful of butter. 
One-half cupful of hot milk- 



1 14 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

One egg, well beaten. 

One-third tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-half tea-spoonful of chopped parsley. 

Mix the fish with the potatoes, and afterward add all 
the other ingredients, putting the butter into the hot pota- 
toes to melt. Mix all thoroughly, and set away to cool. 
When cold, shape into balls, dip them into beaten egg, 
and roll in cracker-crumbs or fine bread-crumbs. Just 
before serving time, place the croquettes in a frying 
basket, and plunge them in boiling fat. Cook for two 
minutes, drain well, and serve at once. If the croquettes 
are wanted for breakfast, all the work, except the frying, 
may be done the previous day. 

FISH Rechauffe. 

One pint of cold fish. 

One-half pint of egg sauce. (See " Sauces for Fish.") 

One quart of mashed potatoes. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Place one-half of the potato in a baking dish ; then 
season the fish well with salt and pepper, lay it upon 
the potato, add the sauce to the top of the fish, and 
spread the other half of the potato on top of the mass. 
Cover the potato with a thin layer of butter, and bake 
for twenty minutes in a hot oven. The sauce is very sim- 
ple. 

SPICED MACKEREL. 

When cooking salt mackerel, it is well to prepare more 
than enough for immediate use, so that this really fine 
dish may be arranged. By some this is called " Salma- 



FISH. I 1 5 

gundi," on account of the mixture of spices used. Clean 
the mackerel, and, having soaked it over night in cold 
water with the inside down, drain, and boil slowly until 
tender in fresh water. Then lift the fish out, drain well, 
and place it in a rather deep dish. It is best to cut the 
fish into four pieces after it is cooked, as it can thus be 
more easily managed. For a mackerel weighing one 
pound make the following pickle and pour it over the fish 
boiling hot. Allow 

One pint of vinegar. 

Two bay-leaves. 

One table-spoonful of prepared spices. 

One tea-spoonful of whole mustard. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-half tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One slice of onion. 

Place the spices in the vinegar on the fire, cover tightly 
and let them steep slowly for an hour, to draw out the 
flavors. Strain, and pour the liquid over the fish, cover- 
ing it while the vinegar steams. The fish will be ready to 
serve in a day. The prepared spices, which may be pro- 
cured at any grocer's, consist of a mixture of cloves, 
allspice, cinnamon and mustard. 

SHELL-FISH. 

OYSTERS. 

The breeding season for oysters begins about the first 
of May, at which time they become soft and milky and do 
not return to their firm condition again until the weather 
is cold. Canned oysters, however, are good at any time 
and are often a blessing to the invalid on this account, 



1 1 6 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

since they may always be relied upon to furnish a tempt- 
ing dish. 

Oysters are differently sold in different places, some 
dealers selling by measure only, while others sell both 
by measure and count. When they are sold by the 
dozen, they are generally divided into several grades. 
"Counts" are the largest and are suitable for frying, 
broiling, etc. ; they are, of course, the most expensive 
kind. " Selects " rank next to " counts " and in some 
markets are called " culls." " Straights " are oysters 
taken as they come, the large with the small. 

Oysters are very dainty food and require careful hand- 
ling. The seasoning used should be of the most delicate 
kind, and the oysters should never be cooked after they 
have become plump and the edges curl. Too much cook- 
ing makes them hard and indigestible and ruins their 
flavor entirely. 

OYSTERS, RAW. 

Raw oysters are served either on the half-shell, on 
oyster plates or in a block of ice. Allow to each person 
five or six oysters and a quarter of a lemon, and also pass 
thin slices of delicately buttered brown or graham bread. 

Little neck clams take the place of oysters during the 
hot weather and are similarly served. 

OYSTERS ON ICE. 

There is a very attractive way of serving raw oysters. 
Select a rectangular piece of clear ice, with smooth, reg- 
ular surfaces. With a hot brick or flat-iron melt a cavity 
in the ice large enough to hold the oysters. Pour out the 
water from the melted ice, wash out the cavity and dry it, 



F/SH. ' 117 

and put in the oysters, which should be well drained in a 
colander. Place a thick napkin on a platter, set the ice 
upon this, and garnish the dish with parsley and sliced 
lemon. A bed of smilax or parsley is sometimes made 
about and upon the napkin to conceal it, the lemon being 
placed on this green bed. The ice is often chipped 
roughly to resemble a rock. 

OYSTER SOUP. 

This will be found among the soups. 

OYSTERS, FRIED. 

Drain the oysters well in a colander and season with 
salt and pepper. Have ready a pint and a-half of dried 
bread'Crumbs (see index for method of preparing bread for 
crumbing), and slightly salt and pepper them. This quan- 
tity of crumbs will " bread " fifty oysters, which number 
will be ample for six persons. Thoroughly beat three 
eggs. Place a few crumbs on a plate, and roll the oys- 
ters in them, adding crumbs as needed, until all the oys- 
ters have been treated to the crumbs. Lay the oysters as 
they are crumbed on a baking board that has been 
sprinkled with crumbs. Dip the oysters into the beaten 
egg, one at a time, and roll each, as soon as dipped, in 
the bread-crumbs again. Do not pile them one upon 
another ; and let them stand at least an hour before fry- 
ing, if you would have them in perfection. Place a layer 
of oysters in a frying-basket and plunge them into 
boiling fat that is so hot that blue smoke rises from the 
center. Cook about a minute and a-half, and drain on 
soft brown paper. Oysters fried in this manner are 
brown, tender, crisp and plump. 



[ [ 8 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

OYSTERS, SAUTEED. 

Drain the oysters well, season with salt and pepper, 
and roll them in fine bread or cracker crumbs. Place 
clear fat in a frying-pan (butler may be used if the differ- 
ence in cost is not an object), and when it becomes very 
hot drop in enough oysters to cover the bottom of the 
pan. When one side is browned, turn the oysters care- 
fully to brown the other side. The iron pancake griddle 
is often used for this purpose, as in this way many oysters 
may be cooked at one time. Serve very hot on toast. 

OYSTERS FRICASSEED 

Twenty-five large oysters. 

One large table-spoonful of butter. 

One large table-spoonful of flour. 

One large table-spoonful of chopped parsley. 

One-half pint of milk. 

Two eggs (yolks only). 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Boil the oysters in their own liquor, and drain. Place 
the butter in a frying-pan, and when it has melted, add 
the flour, rubbing to a smooth paste. Now pour in the 
milk, and stir it until it boils ; then add the oysters, half a 
cupful of the liquor and the salt and pepper, 'and stir 
again until the liquid boils. At this point remove the 
pan from the fire, stir in the eggs, well beaten, and also 
the parsley, and serve at once. 

OYSTERS ON TOAST. 

One pint of oysters. 
One table-spoonful of butter. 
One table-spoonful of flour. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 



FISH. 119 

Heat the oysters in their own liquor, and when boiling, 
skim them ; add the butter and flour rubbed to a cream, 
and season with salt and pepper ; then let the whole 
cook about two minutes, to make certain the flour is 
done. Have ready some nicely toasted bread ; and if 
the oysters do not seem rich in liquor, wet the edges of the 
toast carefully with a little salted water, pouring it on 
with a tea-spoon so as not to add too much ; then turn 
the oysters over the toast. Should there be plenty of 
liquor to moisten the toast properly, the water, of course, 
need not be used. This is a particularly delicate and 
appetizing dish for an invalid or a convalescent. Many 
prefer the liquor without thickening, and the flour is then 
omitted, with quite as good results. 

OYSTERS BAKED IN THE SHELLS. 

Use only large oysters for this purpose. Wash the 
shells and scrub them with a brush ; then place them in a 
baking pan, with the round sides down to hold the juice, 
and bake in a hot oven until the shells open. Remove 
the upper shells, season each oyster (which should be 
slightly loosened from the lower shell) with butter, salt 
and pepper, and serve at once in the shells. Oysters 
baked in this way are sometimes removed from the shells 
and served in a hot dish. There is no way of cooking the 
oyster in which the natural flavor is so fully developed. 

Another method of baking oysters in the shell is as fol- 
lows : Open the oysters, and season them highly with 
butter, salt and pepper and a drop of Worcestershire 
sauce or a little catsup, and bake a few minutes in a very 
hot oven. Gentlemen who are fond of condiments gen- 
erally prefer oysters roasted in this way. 



120 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

OYSTERS, BROILED. 

Use the oyster-broiler for this work. (See " Kitchen 
Utensils.") Only the largest oysters are suitable for broil- 
ing. Drain the oysters, season with salt and pepper, dip 
them one by one in melted butter, and roll them in flour. 
Then lay them on the broiler, and cook over clear 
coals until they turn a delicate brown. These are served 
on slices of thin toast. Fine cracker-crumbs may be used 
instead of flour, if preferred. 

OYSTERS, SCALLOPED. 

Drain the oysters, and place a generous layer of them 
in a baking dish, seasoning with salt and pepper and 
dots of butter, half a table-spoonful of butter being 
none too much. Spread a thick layer of- cracker-crumbs 
over the oysters, and repeat the layers of oysters, season- 
ing and crumbs until all the oysters have been used, 
placing a layer of cracker-crumbs at the top and sprink- 
ling them lightly with salt, pepper and dots of butter. 
Add an equal quantity of milk to the oyster liquor — that 
is, as much milk as liquor — mix well together, and pour 
the liquid over the oysters, etc., helping it through to the. 
bottom of the dish at the sides, but disturbing the oys- 
ters as little as possible. Bake twenty minutes, not too 
rapidly, and serve in the baking-dish. There should be 
at least a tea-cupful of the liquid to a quart baking-dish- 
ful of oysters ; and if there is not half a tea-cupful of the 
liquor, add enough more milk to make up the difference. 
Oysters are often scalloped in their shells, using three 
oysters to each shell ; or individual silver scallop dishes 
are used, which is the daintiest way of serving. 



FISH. 1 2 I 

OYSTER CHOWDER. 

One quart of oysters. 

Six potatoes. • 

One and a-half pint of milk. 

Three pilot^or sea biscuits. 

One table-spoonful of flour. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One onion. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Drain the oysters, and run each through the fingers to 
remove any particles of shell. Strain the liquor through 
a fine wire sieve. Thinly slice the potatoes and onion, 
and boil them very gently in the oyster liquor until tender. 
Wet the flour in a little of the milk, and stir it into the 
scalding milk (which should have been heated by itself in 
a double boiler), adding also the butter, salt and pepper. 
Cook about a minute, put in the oysters, and boil two 
minutes. Then turn into the milk the potatoes and 
onion, and the liquor in which they have been boiled. 
Place the crackers or sea biscuits in the tureen, pour the 
chowder over them, and serve at once. 

CLAMS. 

There are two varieties of this shell-fish, the " long " 
clam, which has a thin shell, and the " round " clam, the 
shell of which is thick. " Little-neck " clams are the tiny,- 
" round " variety. " Long " clams are boiled or baked in 
the oven, and the tough mouth end is not eaten. They 
also make very delicate fritters. 

CLAM FRITTERS. 

Wash the clams well, using a thin, narrow brush to 



122 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

bring out all the sand ; and place them in the oven in a 
pan. When the shells open, take out the meat, and 
strain the liquor that will have accumulated in the pan, 
keeping it separate. To a pint of meat allow 

Three eggs. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-fourth tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

Two cupfuls of liquor, or add milk to make that amount. 

Flour to thicken. 

This is sufficient for a large quantity of fritters. They 
may be fried by dropping the mixture, a spoonful at a 
time, in hot fat, like fried cakes ; or they may be cooked 
very satisfactorily on a pan-cake griddle. The former 
way, however, is generally preferred. 



CLAMS, BAKED IN THE OVEN. 

Round clams are more often baked than the long 
variety, but the thin-shelled clam is by no means a poor 
dish when dressed in this way. When round clams are 
to be baked, those of medium-size are best, although the 
small ones are still very luscious cooked in this way. 
They should be scrubbed well and placed in a baking 
pan, and when the shells open they have cooked suffi- 
ciently. Serve on a platter just as they come from the 
oven, covering with a napkin to keep them hot 



CLAM CHOWDER. 



Many so-called chowders are nothing more nor less 
than soup with potatoes and onion in it. This chowder 
is of quite, another ki.nd, being served on a platter in- 



X 

FISH. 123 

Stead of in a soup tureen, as many " chowders " are 
nowadays; and it is eaten with a fork. Large, round 
clams are the kind used for this purpose, and they should 
be opened and chopped rather finely. Put into the bot- 
tom of a tin pail small pieces of salt pork, and then add a 
layer of chopped clam's. Place on this a layer of thinly 
sliced raw potatoes, and next a layer of such vegetables 
as may be liked — celery, tomatoes, sliced onion, parsley, 
etc., with a few slices of lemon and pepper sprinkled 
over all. Then add a layer of broken Boston crackers or 
pilot biscuit. Begin again with the pork, and follow it up 
with clams, potatoes, seasoning and crackers, until all the 
clams prepared are utilized. Pour the clam juice over 
all, adding a little water to moisten the whole chowder. 
Place the cover on the pail, put the pail in a kettle of 
boiling water, and boil three hours. Jf only a small 
quantity of chowder is desired, the double boiler may be 
used for the cooking. If the potatoes are not sufficiently 
cooked by this time, the chowder may be turned into a 
kettle to finish, but it must be stirred constantly to keep 
it from burning. It is seldom necessary, however, to 
turn it out. Remove the pail at the end of the first hour 
to see if there is moisture enough to cook all well, and 
add a little water if necessary. The chowder need not 
be stirred at all while cooking, unless it has to be turned 
into a kettle. Sortietimes one is unfortunate in selecting 
clams, for if they are too salt the potatoes will not cook 
tender. This seldom occurs, however. 

CLAMS, ROASTED. 

Round clams are cooked in this way, by placing them 
directly upon the coals ; when the shells open, the clams 



1 24 THE FA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

are cooked enough. Take them from the coals with a 
pair of tongs, and send to the table the same as baked 
clams. Season when eating with butter, salt and pepper, 
and a taste of Worcestershire sauce. 

CLAM SOUP. 

This will be found among the soups. 
LOBSTERS. 

If possible, always boil lobsters at home. If a lobster 
is cooked when purchased, see that the tail is stiff and 
elastic, so that when it is bent out it springs quickly back ; 
otherwise the lobster was dead when boiled. Choose the 
small lobster that is heavy in proportion to its size. 
Those with hard, solid shells streaked with black will be 
found full of meat. The thin-shelled lobster is vyatery. 
The male lobster is preferred for eatuig, and the female 
for sauces and soups. The female has a broad tail and 
not so many claws as the male. Canned lobster is very 
convenient in case of emergency for making salad. 

TO BOIL A LOBSTER. 

Fill a kettle nearly full of boiling water, and add a large 
spoonful of salt. Wind a string around the lobster to 
secure the claws to the body, and plunge it head first 
into the kettle. A medium-sized lobster should boil in 
half an hour; a large one in forty-five minutes. Too 
much cooking toughens the meat. 

TO OPEN A LOBSTER. 

Let the lobster cool after boiling, and wipe the shell 
perfectly dry. Break off all the claws, and separate the 



FISH. I 2 5 

tail from the body and the body from its shell, leaving 
the stomach or " lady," as it is called, in the shell. The 
"lady" is found directly under the head. Save the 
liver, which may be knovi^n by its greenish color, and 
also the coral, which is used in sauces and salad. 
Split the body through the center, and pick the meat from 
the cells, cutting the under side of the tail shell open 
also, and taking out the meat in one solid piece. Split 
this piece open, and there will be uncovered a little vein 
running its entire length. This is the intestinal canal 
and must be removed. It is not always the same color, 
being black, red or even white ; but it is not fit to eat. 
Break off all the gills before picking the meat from the 
joints, as they are liable to drop off with the meat and 
are too woolly to be palatable. The gills, stomach and 
intestines are the parts not eaten. When the shells of 
the large claws are thin, cut off a strip down the sharp 
edge, and remove the meat whole ; or the shell may be 
broken, when too thick to be cut, by hammering it on the 
edge. The claws should never be pounded in the middle, 
as the meat is thus crushed and often filled with pieces of 
shell. 

TO SERVE LOBSTER PLAIN. 

Arrange the meat in the center o'^ a dish, and garnish 
with the small claws, sprigs of parsley or hard-boiled 
eggs cut into quarters. Each person at table seasons to 
suit with pepper, salt and vinegar or oil. 

LOBSTER CHOPS. 

. These are at present a very fashionable dish, being 



I 26 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

served at teas, luncheons and evening parties. They are 
very dainty. 

Two cupfuls of boiled lobster. 
Two eggs (yolks only). 
One cupful of cream or milk. 
Three table-spoonfuls of flour. 
One table-spoonful of butter. 
One-eighth of a nutmeg. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 

Put the butter in a stew-pan, and when it bubbles, stir in 
the flour. Cook this paste, slowly stirring all the time ; 
then pour in the cream, and add the lobster, cut into 
small dice. Stir until scalding hot, take from the fire, 
and when slightly cooled, stir in the yolks of the eggs, 
well beaten, the grated nutmeg, and the salt and pepper. 
Return to the fire and cook two minutes, stirring all 
the time. Butter a platter, and on it spread the mixture 
half an inch deep. When cold, form in the shape of 
chops, pointed at one end ; roll the chops in beaten ^gg^ 
then in bread or cracker-crumbs, place them in the frying 
basket and plunge them in boiling-hot fat until of a 
nice brown color. The frying should not take longer 
than three minutes. Drain well, and stick the end of a 
small claw in each chop to represent the bone. Serve on 
a napkin, placing the chops so they overlap each other, 
and garnish with parsley. 

LOBSTER FARCI. (STUFFED.) 

Two cupfuls of lobster meat. 
Three hard-boiled eggs (yolks). 
One-half pint of milk. 
One-fourth of a nutmeg, grated. 



FISH. 127 

One tabk-spoonful of chopped parsley. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

Two table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs. 

One table-spoonful of flour. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Cut the lobster into small pieces. Two lobsters will be 
required for this quantity. Put the milk on to boil in the 
double boiler,, and when hot, stir into it the butter and 
flour, rubbed well together. Stir until smooth, and cook 
three minutes ; then remove from the fire, and add the 
crumbs, parsley, lobster, salt and pepper, and the yolks of 
the eggs mashed very fine. Mix all well together. In 
opening the lobster for the stuffing, be careful not to break 
the body or tail shells. Wash them and wipe dry, and 
with a pair of scissors cut off the under part of the tail 
shells, using the tails of both lobsters. Join the large 
ends of the tail shells to the body shell, with the ends of 
the tails out, thus forming a boat-shaped shell. Put the 
stuffing into this boat, brush over the top with beaten egg, 
sprinkle lightly with bread-crumbs, and bake in a quick 
oven for fifteen minutes. 

STEWED LOBSTER. 

Cut the meat fine and put it in a small frying-pan with 
milk enough to nearly cover it ; when the milk boils, 
thicken to a cream with a little corn starch wet with milk, 
seasoning with salt, pepper and butter. Serve on toasted 
bread laid on a hot platter. 

DEVILED LOBSTER. 

This is made the same as deviled crab, using two cup. 
fuls of finely chopped lobster where tw^elve crabs are used 



I 28 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

in the recipe. This will require Avo small lobsters. 
Serve in the lobster shells. 

CRABS. 

These shell-fish are found near the coast of the South- 
ern and Middle states, and in Maryland special atten- 
tion is paid to their propagation. They are generally 
expensive and are sold alive or boiled. As they are 
easily boiled, it is better not to trust to the fishmonger's 
boiling. Like lobsters they should be heavy for their 
size. 

SOFT-SHELL CRABS. 

Crabs, as well as lobsters, shed their shells annually. 
When crabs are minus their shells they are known as 
soft-shell crabs and are most highly esteemed by epi- 
cures. In three days after the old shell is lost the new 
one begins to harden, when the crab ceases to be the 
choice tid-bit he w^as. This is the reason the supply of 
soft-shell crabs is always short. They are, of course, 
always sold alive. 

TO CLEAN SOFT-SHELL CRABS. 

To prepare these crabs for cooking will not be difficult, 
if the following directions are carefully followed. The 
back of the crab is of a greenish color and is like thin, 
stiff rubber, and at each end it tapers to a point. Take 
one of these points between the thumb and fore-finger of 
the left hand, and, keeping the crab on its face all the 
time, press the back with the second finger, bending the 
shell back about half-way. There will thus be exposed 
a spongy substance which must be scraped or, if neces- 



FISH. 1 29 

sary, cut away. Repeat the operation at the other point 
of the back. The " apron," which is a small, loose sort 
of tail, running to a point in the middle of the under shell 
and closely lapping it, should be pulled off. Wash the 
crabs in cold water, and drain well, wiping them gently 
with a cloth. They are then ready for cooking. 

FRIED SOFT-SHELL CRABS. 

Dip the crabs in beaten egg that has been seasoned 
with a little salt and pepper, and roll them in bread or 
cracker crumbs, also seasoned with salt and pepper. 
Fry in a frying-pan in hot butter, turning when necessary. 
Place a cover over the pan when frying. The crabs 
should fry slowly for twenty minutes, at least, and will be 
of a deep-red shade when done. Drain a moment on soft 
brown paper, and serve hot. 

BAKED SOFT-SHELL CRABS. 

Season the crabs with salt and pepper, dip them in 
melted butter, and sprinkle thickly with dry bread or 
cracker crumbs. Put them in a baking-pan, and bake in 
a very hot oven for ten or twelve minutes. When tender, 
remove to a platter, place the pan they were baked in on 
top of the range, and add a little water and a table- 
spoonful of flour wet to a smooth paste. When the gravy 
has boiled a minute, season with salt and pepper and 
pour it around the crabs. Strain the gravy, if at all 
lumpy. This is a very delicious way of cooking these 
delicate shell-fish. 

HARD-SHELL CRABS. 

Plunge the crabs into boiling water, and cook fifteen 



I 30 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

minutes ; then remove the outside shells and the shaggy 
substance. Rinse in hot water, and arrange on a platter. 
They are to be eaten from the shell. 

DEVILED CRAB. 

This has become a very fashionable dish. It is served 
at almost all teas, receptions and parties. Only hard- 
shell crabs are used for this dish. 

Twelve heavy crabs. 

One-half pint of cream. 

One table-spoonful of flour. 

Four table-spoonfuls of butter. 

One table-spoonful of chopped parsley. 

One table-spoonful of lemon juice. 

One-quarter of a nutmeg, grated. 

One tea-spoonful of mustard. 

One and a-half pint of grated bread-crumbs. 

One-quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of salt. 

Boil the crabs for thirty minutes. Drain them, break 
off the claws and separate the shells, removing the 
spongy fingers and the stomach, which is found under the 
head. Pick out all the meat, and wash and wipe the 
shells. Heat the cream in a small saucepan ; thoroughly 
mix the flour and mustard and two table-spoonfuls of the 
butter, and stir the mixture into the boiling cream. Boil 
two minutes, remove from the fire, and add the crab 
meat and seasoning. Mix well, and put the mixture in 
the crab-shells. Sprinkle with the crumbs, and place the 
remainder of the butter, cut in small pieces, on top of the 
crumbs. Cook in a hot oven until the crumbs are brown, 
first placing the grate of the oven under the pan, so the 



FISH. 131 

heat will not be too great at the bottom. Serve on a bed 
of parsley, arranging the claws on it. 

CRAW FISH. 

These resemble the lobster and are found in most of 
our brooks and rivers. They are boiled and served the 
same as crabs, or used as a garnish for boiled fish. 

SHRIMPS. 

Shrimps belong to the lobster species, being the very 
smallest of that ilk. They are of two kinds, the gulf 
shrimps or prawns being the larger. Shrimps are sold by 
the quart, and in some places are vended already cooked. 
They are served the same as crabs, in salads and sauces, 
and are also used as a garnish. 

SCALLOPS. 

These shell-fish have round, deeply grooved shells. 
The muscle which unites the shells is the only part used 
for food. Scallops have a sweet flavor and are in season 
during the fall and winter. They are stewed or fried, the 
latter way being much the more satisfactory. 

FRIED SCALLOPS. 

Wash the scallops, drain them and dry thoroughly. 
Season fine cracker-crumbs with salt and pepper, dip 
the scallops in beaten ^gg, then in the crumbs, and 
fry in hot fat. Or they may be simply seasoned and 
rolled in flour and then fried. 

MUSSELS. 

They are fried like oysters or are stewed. For stewing, 
'^^pen the mussels, and to a quart of meat allow — • 



132 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Two tables-poonfuls of l)uLter. 
One table-spoonful of flour. 
Six whole pepper-corns. 
One-half cupful of cream. 
Two eggs (yolks only). 
Salt and pepper to taste. 

Stew the mussels five minutes in their own liquor, and 
then add the flour rubbed well into the butter, and the 
pepper-corns. Stew ten minutes, and pour in the heated 
cream. Set back on the range, and stir in the yolks of 
the eggs, which will have been thinned with a table-spoon- 
ful of water or milk. Season with salt and pepper, and 
serve. 

TERRAPIN. 

This is served at many fashionable dinners and late 
suppers. Terrapins belong to the turtle family and are 
found from Rhode Island to the Gulf of Mexico. They 
vary considerably in size and quality in different locali- 
ties. The finest in winter are very expensive, sometimes 
costing from twenty-five to fifty dollars a dozen in the 
Northern markets, although they are often to be had for 
one-fourth that cost. In the South they are comparatively 
cheap and are larger than those found in the North. 
There are two ways of killing terrapin. In the North, if 
the terrapin is small, it is boiled the same as a lobster; 
but in the South the head is cut off and the terrapin 
placed in cold water for half an hour, to draw out the 
blood, after which it is boiled. The time of boiling 
varies with the age of the terrapin. If young, it will 
cook in half an hour, but old ones require to boil fully 
two hours before they are tender. 



FISH. 133 

COOKING AND CLEANING TERRAPIN. 

If the large Southern variety is used, cut off the head 
and let the terrapin lie in cold water half an hour, then 
drop it into boiling water and cook for ten minutes. 
Pour off the water, and cover the terrapin with cold water, 
letting it stand until cool enough to handle easily ; then 
take it up, and with a towel rub the nails and black skin 
from the legs. Wash the terrapin carefully, place it in a 
stew-pan with enough boiling water to cover, and cook 
until the flesh is tender, which will be when the joints of 
the legs can be broken with a slight pressure, and the 
shell will separate easily. Remove from the water, and 
after it has cooled a little, place the terrapin on its back, 
with the head away from you, and loosen and remove the 
under shell. The liver, gall, bladder and sand-bag will 
be found near the head end, the gall being attached to 
the left side of the liver. Take out the gall as you. 
would that of a chicken, being very careful not to break 
it. If such an accident occur, the entire terrapin will be 
ruined, so there should be extra care at this point of the 
work. All that remains is used for food. Take out the 
eggs, if there are any, remove the slight membrane that 
is around them, and drop them into cold water. Cut all 
the meat very fine (the intestines finer than any part), 
and save any water that may collect in the shells. The 
terrapin is now ready to use in a stew or in other 
ways. It is most commonly served stewed. 

STEWED TERRAPIN. 

Two terrapins. 

Three table-spoonfuls of butter. 

One pint of cream. 



1 34 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

One-half pint of sherry or Maderia. 

One-half cupful of water. 

Six eggs (yolks). 

Two tea-spoonfuls of salt. 

One-fifth of a tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One-tenth of a tea-spoonful of mace. 

One-tenth of a tea-spoonful of allspice. 

One-half of a lemon. 

Put the finely cut terrapin in a stew-pan with the water 
and butter, the juices that have collected in the shells 
and the salt, pepper and spices, and let all simmer 
gently for fifteen minutes. Boil the six eggs fifteen 
minutes, remove the yolks, mash them very fine, and 
gradually mix the cream with them. Add this mixture to 
the stew, and also the sherry, the eggs of the terrapin, 
and the lemon thinly sliced. Let the stew stand where it 
will become well heated, but do not let it boil, or the 
cream will break. Serve while hot. 

Silver-plated saucepans holding half a pint each are 
used for serving this rare dish. One kind is in the shape 
of a terrapin, the other round, v/ith a straight handle 
and a tightly fitting cover. 

SAUCES FOR FISH. 

The French undoubtedly understand the making of 
sauces better than any other nation. The English make 
a drawn-butter sauce and use it as a foundation for many 
kinds. By the addition of capers, shrimps, chopped 
pickle, lobster, oysters, etc., one has caper, shrimp, lobster 
and the other kinds of sauces. The drawn-butter sauce 
is simple, yet is often improperly made, being insipid in 
taste and lumpy and unappetizing in appearance through 
msufficient cooking. The French white sauce differs 



niateriail}' from that of the English, since it is made with 
strong white stock prepared from veal or chicken, or both, 
and with some vegetables' for a basis. One shrinks from 
using a receipt for sauce that requires stock ; and man)- 
simple receipts are here given which do not call for thai 
as an ingredient. 

In thickening sauces, it should be remembered that 
butter and flour should be well cooked together before 
the liquid is added, to prevent the flour from tasting 
uncooked; and the butter should be, very hot before the 
flour is added to it. In butter sauces, however, only 
enough butter should be used at first to cook the flour, 
the remainder being cut in pieces and added after the 
sauce is taken from the fire. In this w^ay the flavor is 
preserved. 

A mistake that is frequently made in the preparation 
of any sauce that is thickened with butter and flour 
cooked together, is that the liquid is added to the thick- 
ening before the flour and butter have at all cooled. 
The stew-pan in which the butter and flour are cooked 
should be drawn to a cool part of the range and the 
mixture stirred until partially cooled before putting in 
the liquid, which should be cold and be added gradually. 
The length of time for a sauce to cook varies. It must 
be remembered that if the sauce is boiled longer than 
ten minutes, the butter will separate and come to the top, 
where it can be skimmed off ; this leaves a clear sauce. 
If cooked less than this time the butter does not sepa- 
rate. Long cooking makes the sauce greasy, unless it 
be continued long enough to make the separation of oil 
and ingredients complete. In common sauces the quick 
method is generally preferred, and if by mistake the 



136 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

sauce becomes oily, a little cold water may be added and 
the sauce stirred until it begins to boil, when it will be 
found perfectly smooth and satisfactory. 

DRAWN-BUTTER SAUCE. 

One-half cupful of butter (scant). 
One pint of boiling water. 
Two table-spoonfuls of flour. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Put half the butter into the stew-pan, and when it 
bubbles, sprinkle in the flour, and stir well for two 
minutes. Draw back on the range, and when slightly 
cooled add the boihng water, a little at a time, stirring all 
the time until the liquid is thick and smooth. Let the 
sauce boil up once, stirring it constantly ; then put back 
again, and add the remainder of the butter, cut in pieces, 
and also the salt and pepper. When carefully made this 
sauce will be like cream ; but if it is not entirely smooth, 
strain it before using. Drawn-butter sauce is sometimes 
preferred slightly acid, in which case a few drops of 
strong vinegar or of lemon juice are added just before 



BROWN SAUCE. 

Three table-spoonfuls of butter. 

Two table-spoonfuls of flour. 

Two table-spoonfuls of chopped onion. 

One table-spoonful of chopped carrot. 

One table-spoonful of lemon juice. 

One pint of stock or water. 

One clove. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 



FISH. 137 

Cook the vegetables in the butter very slowly for half 
an hour; then place them on a hot part of the range 
and cook until slightly browned, stirring all the time 
the browning is going on. Add the flour, and stir until 
that als6 is brown. Draw the pan back, and when its 
contents are slightly cooled, add the stock and stir until 
the whole is well mixed, adding the clove, salt and 
pepper. Set the pan back where the sauce will gently 
simmer for tv/enty minutes. Strain, skim off the 'fat that 
comes to the top, add the lemon juice, and serve. Pork 
"drippings," or fat that is clear may take the place of 
butter, with good results, two table-spoonfuls being used 
instead of three. 

WHITE SAUCE. 

Three table-spoonfuls of butter. 

One table-spoonful of chopped onion. 

Two table-spoonfuls of chopped celery. 

One table-spoonful of chopped carrot. 

Three table-spoonfuls of flour. 

One pint of stock. 

One-half cupful of cream or milk. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Simmer the vegetables in the butter very gently for ten 
minutes, being careful not to brown them. Then add the 
flour, and stir until smooth and frothy. Cool slightly, 
and add the stock. When all is smooth, add the salt and 
pepper, and boil for five minutes ; then put in the cream. 
Let the sauce boil up once, and strain. This is a fine 
sauce in which to heat cold fish. 

CREAM SAUCE. 

Three table-spoonfuls of butter. 
Two table-spoonfuls of flour. 



I 38 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

One pint of milk. 
One tea-spoonful of salt. 
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 
One tea-spoonful of chopped parsley. 

Place the butter in a small stew-pan, and when it is hot, 
add the tiour. Stir well until smooth and frothy. Draw 
the pan back, and gradually add the milk. Place it again 
on the hot part of the range, and when the sauce boils, 
add the salt and pepper. Simmer for three minutes, 
add the parsley, and serve. A few drops of onion juice 
will improve the flavor, if onion is liked. 

TOMATO SAUCE. 

One pint of tomato. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One table-spoonful of flour. 

One small onion. 

One bay-leaf. 

One sprig of parsley. 

One blade of mace. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Place the tomato, onion, bay-leaf, parsley and mace in 
a stew-pan together, and simmer gently for ten minutes ; 
then strain through a wire sieve, pulping through all the 
tomato but the skin and seeds. Rinse out the stew-pan, 
and when it is dry put in the butter. As soon as the but- 
ter is hot, add the flour, and cook two minutes. Add to 
this the strained tomato, pouring it in gradually. When 
all is well mixed, place the sauce on a hot part of the 
range ; boil up once, add the salt and pepper, and serve. 

HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. 

This is one of the best sauces for fish. 



FISH. 139 

One-half cupful of butter. 
One-half cupful of boiling water. 
One-half lemon (juice only). 
One-quarter salt-spoonful of pepper. 
One salt-spoonful of salt. 
Three eggs (yolks only). 

Beat the butter to a cream with a silver spoon, add the 
yolks of the eggs, one at a time, and beat well ; then add 
the lemon juice, salt and pepper. About five minutes 
before serving, add the boiling water, a little at a time, 
stirring well. Place the bowl in a sauce-pan of boiling 
water, and stir rapidly until the sauce thickens like boiled 
custard. 

SAUCE TARTARE (a COLD SAUCE). 

One-half pint of mayonnaise dressing. (See " Salads.") 

Three olives. 

One cucumber pickle. 

One table-spoonful of parsley. 

Chop the olives, pickle and parsley very fine, and add 
them to the dressing. This sauce will keep a long time. 

MAITRE d'HOTEL SAUCE. 

Two table-spoonfuls of flour. 

One table-spoonful of chopped parsley. 

One table-spoonful of lemon juice. 

Three-quarter cupful of butter. 

One pint of boiling water. 

Two eggs (yolks only). 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Prepare the same as drawn-butter sauce (see receipt), 
and when finished add the lemon juice and chopped 
parsley. Let it cool slightly, and add the beaten yolks of 
the eggs. Return to the range, and when well heated, 
but not to the boiling point, it is ready to use. 



I40 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

BECHAMEL SAUCE. 

One-half pint of veal stock. 
One-half pint of cream. 
Two eggs (yolks only). 
Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 
One table-spoonful of flour. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 

Heat the butter, and when bubbling, stir in the flour ; 
mix until smooth, taking care it does not brown. Add 
the stock and cream gradually, and stir until the liquid 
boils. Take from the fire, and add the salt and pepper 
and the well beaten 3^olks. Let it stand in a warm place 
on the range two minutes, but do not let it boil after the 
eggs are added. 

EGG SAUCE. 

Make a cream sauce (see receipt), and add the whites 
of two hard-boiled eggs, chopping them very fine ; then 
press the yolks through a wire sieve, and add them also. 
The wire potato-masher (see " Kitchen Utensils ") is just 
the thing to use for this purpose. 

OYSTER SAUCE (fOR BOILED FLSh). 

One pint of small oysters. 
One-third cupful of butter. 
Three table-spoonfuls of flour. 
One cupful of milk. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 

Heat the oysters in their own liquor to boiling point. 
Remove them from the fire after they have boiled half a 
minute, skim them, and drain off the liquor into another 
stew-pan. Rub the butter and the flour to a cream. Add 



FISH. 141 

the milk to the oyster liquor, and when heated to boihng 
point, stir in the creamed butter and flour. Let the 
liquid boil up once, season with salt and pepper, add the 
oysters, and serve as soon as the latter are heated 
through. 

LOBSTER SAUCE (fOR BOILED FISH). 

One lobster. 

One-half pint of drawn-butter sauce (see receipt). 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Break up the coral of the lobster, and put it on a paper 
in a slow oven for thirty minutes. Then pound it in a 
mortar, and sprinkle it over the boiled fish when ready to 
serve. Chop the lobster meat, not too fine, and add it to 
the sauce, also putting in a pinch of the coral and the 
salt and pepper. 

The effect is spoiled if the lobster is cut too fine. 
The sauce should be like a creamy bed for the lobster. 

MUSTARD CREAM. 

This is served with baked crabs or roast clams and is 
a dainty addition to those dishes. 

One cupful of milk. 
One tea-spoonful of mustard. 
Three table-spoonfuls of butter. 
One table-spoonful of flour. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 

Heat the milk in a double boiler. Beat the butter, 
flour and mustard to a cream, and gradually pour upon 
this creahi the boiling hot milk, a little at a time. When 
well mixed, return all to the boiler, add the salt and 
pepper, boil three minutes, and serve. 



MEATS. 

" With baked and boiled and stewed and toasted, 
And fried and broiled and smoked and roasted, 
We treat the town." 

Salmagundi. 

BEEF. 

For the best cuts of beef see the chapter on " Market- 
ing." Directions for roasting, broiling, etc., have been 
given in full in the chapter entitled " Plain Directions," 

ROAST BEEF, WITH YORKSHIRE PUDDING. 

A rib or sirloin roast should be prepared as directed 
for roasting. When within three-quarters of an hour of 
being done, have the pudding ready to put in with the 
meat. Butter a pan like that in which the meat is being 
cooked, and pour in the pudding. Put the rack upon 
which the meat has been roasted across the pan, not in 
it. Place the meat on the rack again, return it to the 
oven and cook forty-five minutes. If there should be but 
one roasting pan, take up the meat, pour off the gravy, 
saving it in a separate dish to prepare a gravy for the 
beef, and put the pudding in the roasting pan. 'Cut it in 
squares when done, and garnish the beef with these. 
Another method is to use a pan that has squares stamped 

142 



MEATS. 143 

in it. This produces even squares, with crusT: on all the 
edges, which cannot be obtained by baking in a flat pan. 
Still another way is to heat and oil the iron gem-pans 
and pour the batter into them to cook, basting with the 
dripping from the roast. When this utensil is used for 
baking, there is no necessity for cutting into the pudding, 
which always tends to make it heavy. Serve each person 
one of the gems with their meat. 

YORKSHIRE PUDDING. 

One pint of milk. 

Two-thirds of a cupful of flour. 

Three eggs. 

One scanty tea-spoonful of salt. 

Beat the eggs very light, add the salt and milk, and 
then pour about half the mixture upon the flour. When 
this is perfectly smooth, arid the rest of the liquid. 

FILLET OF BEEF, WITH MUSHROOM SAUCE. 

One sees this dish at almost every dinner party. 
Many order it already cooked from the 7-eshiiiratetir, but 
his price is heavy, being usually ten dollars for ten 
persons. It may be bought from the butcher for one 
dollar a pound, and three pounds are quite sufficient 
when this dish is to be served as one course. The fillet 
is the under side of the loin of beef — the tenderloin. The 
skin and fat should be removed with a sharp knife, and 
also every shred of muscle and ligament. If the fillet is 
not then of a good, round shape, skewer it until it is so^ 
Lard the upper surface (see "Larding.") Dredge well 
with salt, pepper and flour, and place it without water 
in a small pan. Put in a hot oven for thirty min- 



144 ^'-^^ PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

utes, leaving* it the first ten minutes on the lower part of 
the oven, and then placing it on the grate for the re- 
mainder of the time. This is served with the following 
sauce. 

MUSHROOM SAUCE. 

One forty-cent can of French mushrooms. 

Two cupfuls of stock. 

Two table-spoonfuls of flour. 

Four table-spoonfuls of butter. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Heat the butter, and when hot, add the flour and stir 
until very brown. Gradually add the stock, setting the 
pan back out of the fierce heat. When these ingredients 
are well stirred together, boil up once, add the liquor 
from the mushrooms, and also the salt and pepper, and 
simmer gently for twenty minutes. Skim off any oil that 
may rise to the top, add the mushrooms, simmer for five 
minutes more, pour the sauce over the beef, and serve at 
once. 

BRAISED BEEF. 

This mode of cooking is particularly well adapted to 
the cheaper pieces of meat, or those that are lacking in 
flavor and are tough. Braising is properly done when 
vegetables and herbs are used for seasoning meat and 
gravy, although these are sometimes omitted and the 
meat still said to be braised. This receipt calls for six 
pounds of beef. Spread in the braising-pan one-fourth of 
a pound of salt pork, cut in slices, and over this spread 
two table-spoonfuls each of chopped onion, carrot, turnip 
and celery. Lay the meat on this bed, and dredge well 



MEATS. f45 

with salt, pepper and flour. Cover, and put in a moder- 
ately hot oven for half an hour. At the end of this time 
add a pint and a-half of water, or if you have it, of soup- 
stock, basting the meat with some of the liquid, and again 
dredging with salt, pepper and flour. Cook for four 
hours, basting every quarter of an hour. At the end of 
two hours add another pint of stock or water ; also mix 
two table-spoonfuls of corn-starch with half a cupful of 
cold water, and stir this into the juices in the bottom of 
the pan. Cook the meat for the last half hour without a 
cover, as it should be of a delicate brown. Place it in 
the serving-dish ; then strain the gravy in the pan, sea- 
soning it with salt and pepper if necessary, and pour part 
of It on and around the beef, serving the rest in a sepa- 
rate dish. 



A POT ROAST. 

A tough piece of meat may be made very tender by 
this mode of cooking. Wipe the meat with a damp cloth, 
season with salt and pepper and put it into an iron pot. 
Place the latter over a moderate heat, and brown the 
meat slowly, turning it frequently ; this will usually take 
about twenty minutes. When the roast is well browned, 
put in half a pint of boiling water, cover closely, and set 
the pot back where the meat will cook slowly. As the 
water steams away add a little more, half a pint at a time. 
Allow about fifteen minutes to each pound for a piece of 
meat that is not tough, but a very tough roast will require 
twice that time. Take up the meat, and add a small 
quantity of water to the juices in the kettle. Thicken 
the gravy with a little flour stirred to a thin paste with 

10 



1 46 THE PA TTERN CO OK -B O OK. 

a little water, and serve in a separate dish. Boiled rice is 
generally eaten with a pot roast. 

STUFFED BEEFSTEAK. 

Use the round for this dish, having it cut half an inch 
thick. Lay the steak flat on the meat board, spread over 
it with a thin layer of butter, and sprinkle with salt and 
pepper. 

Take for the stuffing 

One and a-half pint of bread-crumbs. 
Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 
One small onion. 
One large tea-spoonful of salt. 
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper. 
Milk to moisten. 

Grate the crumbs fine, season with the salt and pepper, 
and rub in the butter ; then chop the onion fine, and add 
it to the crumbs. Moisten slightly with milk, being care- 
ful to put only enough in to soften the crumbs a little. 

Spread this stuffing over the steak, placing tiny bits of 
butter on top of it. Roll the steak up tightly, rolling 
away from rather than towards you, and keeping the 
stuffing in at the ends as the beef is rolled up. Wrap 
cord or common wrapping twine around the roll, using 
plenty of it, and winding it round and round until the 
meat is tightly compressed. Place the roll in an iron pot 
and roast the same as a pot roast. Remove the strings 
after laying the beef on the serving dish, pour the gravy 
around and over the meat, and serve hot. This stuffed 
steak is sometimes baked, and in that case a little water 
should be added to the pan together with any pieces of 
suet that have been trimmed off the meat. 



MEATS. 147 

BEEFSTEAK AND ONIONS. 

For this dish the cut may be a porterhouse, a sirloin 
or the round ; when expense is to be considered, the last 
named cut will be found both economical and palatable. 
It should be pounded slightly to make it more tender. 
Heat a frying-pan until quite hot, and place the steak in 
it, adding no fat at all. Cook until the meat is either 
rare or well done, as may be preferred. If the finer cuts 
are used, care must be taken that the meat is not cooked 
too long, but the round will need to be fairly well cooked 
to make it juicy and tender. Remove the steak to 
the serving dish. Slice the onions thin, and turn them 
into the pan in which the steak was cooked. Cover the 
pan, and cook the onions slowly in the juices from the 
steak until they are tender ; then lift them out and place 
them on top of the steak. Add a little water to the juices 
in the pan, and thicken the gravy with a little flour or 
corn-starch wet in a little water. Season with salt and 
pepper, and pour over the onions and steak. This gravy 
should be a fine brown. Onions cooked this way will 
not be as greasy as the dish that is often served under 
this name. 

HAMBURG STEAK. 

Have the butcher chop very fine two pounds of the 
round of beef. Press it into a flat steak about three- 
quarters of an inch thick, sprinkle with salt, pepper and 
flour, lay it in a fine wire broiler, and broil the same as 
beefsteak. Spread with butter and serv-e on a hot dish. 
This steak is sometimes shaped into small, thin, flat 
cakes and fried in a frying-pan, a little pork, fat or butter 
being used to keep the meat from sticking to the pan. 



1 4 8 THE PA TTERN CO OK-B O OK. 

A gravy is then made by thickening the juices in the pan, 
a little water being added before the thickening." The 
gravy should be poured over the meat. 

CORNED BEEF. 

Put the beef into the pot with enough cold water to 
cover it, and when it boils set it back on the range to boil 
very moderately. Fast boiling of salted meats renders 
them very hard, yet the water must not cease bub- 
bling. Skim often. In England carrots are boiled 
and served with this dish, and they much improve the 
flavor of the beef. They are not put in the pot until 
three-quarters of an hour before serving time, and they 
are arranged about the meat on the platter. In America 
■cabbage is generally boiled with the beef. When this is 
used, one or two little red peppers, also boiled with the 
beef, improve the quality of the dish. When ready to 
serve, after taking out the meat, lift the cabbage from 
the saucepan, using a skimmer for the purpose. Drain 
the cabbage well in a colander, pressing out all the water. 
Serve it around the beef or in a separate dish, as may be 
liked. 

BEEF-HEART, STEWED. 

The heart of the ox is very inexpensive, yet it 
makes a most delicious dish. Wash the heart well, re- 
move the muscles from the inside, and take out every 
particle of blood. Make a stuffing of 

One cupful of bread-crumbs. 
One table-spoonful of chopped onion- 
One table-spoonful of chopped celery. 
One table-spoonful of butter. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 



ME A TS. 



149 



Mix these ingredients well together, and stuff the cavity 
of the heart with them. Tie the heart about with twine, 
and wrap it m a cloth, sewing the ends together to keep 
the stuffing in. Place in a small stew-pan, with the point 
of the heart down, and nearly cover with water boiling 
hot. Place the lid on the pan, and simmer gently for 
three hours. When done, there should be about a pint 
of water in the pan. Remove the cloth and place the 
heart on a platter. Add a little water to the pan, thicken 
the juices with a small quantity of flour or corn-starch, 
wet in a little water, and season with salt and pepper. 
Pour the gravy over and around the heart. 

BAKED HEART. 

This is prepared the same as the stew. When done, 
the cloth is removed and the heart placed in a pan in a 
very hot oven and browned. Serve with the gravy the 
same as the preceding. 

CREAMED DRIED BEEF. 

This makes a very satisfactory breakfast dish. The 
beef should be shaved thin by the butcher. 

One-half pound of beef. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

One cupful of milk. 

One tea-spoonful of flour. 

One-eighth tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Place the butter in a stew-pan, and when melted add 
the beef. Stir until the slices begin to curl ; then add 
the milk. When this boils up, stir in the flour wet with 
two table-spoonfuls of milk. Season with the pepper, 
and serve on toast or plainly, as preferred. 



150 .THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

BEEF a la Mode. 

Two pounds of beef. 

Two table-spoonfuls of beef or pork drippings. 

One onion, sliced thin. 

One bay-leaf. 

One lemon, cut in slices. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of salt. 

One-half tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of ground allspice. 

One-quaiter tea-spoonful of cloves. 

One-eighth tea-spoonful of mace. 

The meat used for this purpose may be from the round 
or any other part that is lean. Cut it into pieces of 
about three ounces weight, and dredge well with flour. 
Put the beef drippings and the sliced onion in a large 
stew-pan, and when hot, put in the meat and stir con- 
stantly for ten minutes. Dredge in more flour until the 
mixture is well thickened, adding the ba3Meaf, which 
should be broken, and sprinkling in the spices, which 
should be well mixed together ; add also the salt and 
pepper and sliced lemon. When these have been well 
stirred together, pour in gradually, still stirring, enough 
water to cover the meat. Place the cover on the stew- 
pan, and simmer gently for four hours. 

USES FOR COOKED BEEF. 

There is a good-sized book written on this subject. 
As there are about two hundred ways of utilizing cold 
beef, there can never be any excuse for wasting a parti- 
cle. 

BEEF BALLS. 

One large pint of chopped beef. 
One scanty pint of fine bread-crumbs. 



ME A TS. 151 

One and a-half tea-spoonfuls of salt. 

One-half tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One tea-spoonful of sage. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One egg. 

One small stalk of celery. 

One sprig of parsley. 

One table-spoonful of chopped onion. 

Milk to moisten the whole. 

The seasoning of these balls may be made with what is 
available, the celery, parsley or sage being used if con- 
venient; but the onion is a necessity, for the balls are 
perfectly tasteless without some seasoning of this sort. 
The butter is not used if there is an equal quantity of fat 
on the beef. Add the seasoning to the bread-crumbs ; 
then chop the onion, celery and parsley fine, and when 
they are well mixed, put them with the chopped meat. 
Add the beaten egg, mixing all well together ; and lastly 
stir in the milk. The exact quantity of milk is hard to 
give. There should be enough to nicely moisten the mass 
so it may be made into smooth cakes. Form the mixture 
into cakes with the hands, and flour each side before fry- 
ing. They should be cooked for five minutes in very hot 
fat. 

Lamb or mutton chops that may be left over from a 
former meal, or the tough ends of steaks, will do nicely for 
these balls. 

COOKED BEEF IN TOMATO. 

Cut the beef into thin slices, if possible ; if this cannot 
be done, have the pieces about the size of a large oyster. 
Place them in a frying-pan, and add a few spoonfuls of 
canned tomato, nearly covering the meat. Add butter 



152 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

salt and pepper, and stew slowly, with the cover on the 
pan, for half an hour. Serve on a platter. 

BEEF ON TOAST. 

Finely chop the beef, which may be the ends of steaks 
or the remnants of a roast. Season with salt and pepper. 
For each pint of meat stir in a table-spoonful of flour, 
mixing thoroughly. Place the meat in a small stew-pan, 
and pour in enough milk to nearly cover. Simmer gently 
for ten minutes, and add a table-spoonful of butter. It is 
better not to use the fat of the beef when chopping it up, 
for the butter imparts a much better flavor to the 
whole. Toast six slices of bread, arrange them on a 
platter, spread the beef upon them, and serve at once. 
It is surprising what a really small quantity of meat will 
suffice for a breakfast when served in this way. 

shepherds' pie. 

One quart oi cold beef. 

Three table-spoonfuls of butter. 

Two table-spoonfuls of flour. 

One pint of water. 

Eight large potatoes". 

One cupful of hot milk. 

Salt and pepper. 

Cut the meat into thin slices, and season with salt 
and pepper. Place the meat in an earthenware dish, 
and over it pour a sauce made as follows : Put two table- 
spoonfuls of butter into a frying-pan, and when hot, 
add the flour. Stir until brown, and pour in the water. 
Season with salt and pepper, and boil for three minutes. 
Pare, boil and mash the potatoes, and add to them the 



ME A TS. I 5 3 

boiling hot milk, the " other spoonful of butter, and salt 
and pepper to taste. Spread this preparation over the 
sauce and bake for thirty minutes. Other meats beside 
beef may be used for this dish. 

MEAT PIE. 

Make a crust as for pies (see " Desserts "), roll it 
rather thickly, and line a deep dish with it. Cut the beef 
in rather small pieces — about the size of an oyster — , slic- 
ing it thinly if possible. Dredge well with flour, and sea- 
son with salt and pepper. Place a thick layer of meat in 
the dish, and dot it with small pieces of butter, add 
another layer and more butter, and so continue until all 
the meat is used. Squeeze a little lemon-juice over all. If 
there should be any gravy left from roast meat, add 
a few drops of Worcestershire sauce, and pour it over the 
meat. In this case use less butter through the meat. If 
there is no gravy, add water to the meat to half of its 
height, but if gravy is used, and there is not enough to 
make up this quantity, add as much water as needful. 
Cover the top with a crust, pinching the edge of the 
under crust to that of the upper the same as for any 
other pie. Bake forty-five minutes. 

ESCALLOPED BEEF AND MACARONI. 

One-quarter pound of macaroni. 
One quart of cooked beef. 
One cupful of bread-crumbs. 
One table-spoonful of flour. 
Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 
One pint of water. 
Salt and pepper. 



154 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Boil the macaroni slowly until soft — generally about 
forty minutes. Make a sauce by rubbing the butter and 
flour together and adding a pint of the water the 
macaroni was boiled in ; seasoning with salt and pepper. 
Place in the baking dish a layer of macaroni, and season 
well ; cover with part of the sauce, and arrange a layer of 
meat seasoned with salt and pepper; and continue with 
the layers of macaroni, sauce and meat until all the mate- 
rials have been used. Cover the last layer with bread- 
crumbs, and bake for half an hour. Serve in the same 
dish. 

BAKED HASH OF RICE AND BEEF. 

One cupful of cooked beef. 

One cupful of cooked rice. 

One cupful of milk. 

One egg. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Chop the meat, but not too fine. Put the milk on the 
fire, and when hot, add all the other ingredients, except 
the Qgg. Stir for one minute, to insure the whole 
being thoroughly hot, remove from the fire, and add the 
Gggj well beaten. Turn the hash into a baking dish, and 
bake twenty minutes. Serve in the same dish. The 
hash should be very brown. 

BAKED HASH OF POTATO AND BEEF. 

Two cupfuls of cooked beef. 

One cupful of cold mashed potato. 

Two table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

One-half cupful of water. 

Salt and pepper. 



ME A TS. 155 

Chop the meat, but not too fine, add the cold mashed 
potato and the other ingredients, and bake half an hour 
or until well browned. 

CORNED-BEEF HASH. 

• One pint of chopped beef. 
One pint of potato. 
One table-spoonful of butter. 
One-half cupful of milk or water. 
Salt and pepper. 

Chop the potato and the meat separately and rather 
fine, seasoning each when chopped. If the beef is very- 
salt, do not add salt. Mix beef and potatoes together 
lightly. Pour the milk in a frying-pan with half the but- 
ter, and when warm, turn in the hash, spreading it evenly, 
and placing the rest of the butter, cut in pieces, on the 
top. Cover the pan, and place it where the hash will 
cook slowly for half an hour. There should then be a 
rich, thick crust on the bottom. Do not stir the hash. 
Fold it the same as an omelette, and place it on a warm 
platter. This slow process of heating the hash gives it a 
flavor that cannot be obtained by hurried cooking 

BEEF-LIVER STEW. 

One pound of liver. 

One-half lemon. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of cloves. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of nutmeg. 

Salt and pepper. 

Cut the liver in slices, wash them well in lukewarm 
salted water, and dry them on a napkin. Place some 
pork drippings in a frying-pan, and when hot, fry the liver 



I 56 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

about three minutes. Turn it into a small stew-pan, add 
enough water to cover, the lemon cut in slices, all the 
spices and sufficient salt and pepper. Cover the pan, and 
stew slowly for thirty minutes. When done stir into the 
gravy in the pan a little corn-starch wet with water. 
Taste, and add more seasoning, if necessary. Serve on a 
small platter. This mode of cooking beef liver renders it 
tender and sweet. 

BEEF KIDNEY. 

Beef and sheep kidneys are often recommended for 
food on account of their cheapness, and epicures are 
fond of them as well. The latest decision of physicians 
is that they are not suitable for food, as, " from their con- 
stant use in the animal system, as organs which separate 
from the blood that which would poison the system if it 
remained in the blood, they are often liable to become 
diseased." Kidneys may be prepared (for those who 
like them) the same as liver stew, in the preceding 
receipt. 

BEEF TONGUE. 

Choose a plump tongue with a smooth skin, which 
denotes the age of the animal. If it has been salted and 
dried, soak it for twenty hours before boiling, using plenty 
of water ; but if it is fresh from the brine, it will need to 
be soaked only three or four hours. Put the tongue 
into cold water, and let it gradually warm for one hour, 
then let it cook slowly for two hours. Plunge it into cold 
water, when done, to remove the skin. If the tongue is 
perfectly fresh, put it on to cook in boiling hot water, 



) 



MEATS. 157 

salting the water slightly ; and cook until tender. Serve 
by slicing across the tongue. Sandwiches made of tongue 
are held in high esteem. 



TRIPE. 

Tripe is the large stomach of a ruminating animal and 
is nutritious and easily digested. 

TO PREPARE TRIPE FOR COOKING. 

Scald the stomach with boiling water sufficiently to 
loosen the inside coating ; if this is properly done, the 
coating may be easily scraped off. Wash the tripe well 
through several boiling waters ; then put it in cold water, 
and let it soak over night. Scrape again until white and 
clean. Tripe is usually sold in the city markets already 
cleaned. 

BOILED TRIPE. 

Boil the tripe in equal parts of milk and water for half 
an hour, boiling at the same time and in the same water 
a couple of onions, which should be put in the water at 
least half an hour before the tripe is put in to boil. 
Skim out the onions when perfectly tender, and make 
them into a sauce to pour over the tripe. The sauce is 
made as follows : 

ONION SAUCE FOR TRIPE. 

Drain the cooked onions well and chop them very 
fine ; then place them in half a pint of hot milk, and 
season with butter, salt and pepper. 



158 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

VEAL. 

Very young veal may be known by its small and tender 
bones, the flesh having a bluish tinge and a soft, flabby 
appearance. When from two to three months old the flesh 
is firm and has a pinkish tinge, and the bones are hard. 
It is then in its prime. At best veal is an indigestible 
meat and contains little nutriment. It has very little 
flav^or and needs to be well seasoned and thoroughly 
cooked to be at all palatable. » Despite the prejudice 
which prevails, however, the excellent and attractive 
dishes of which veal forms the basis are almost with- 
out number. 

The lower part of the leg, or knuckle, and all the 
gristly portions are used for soup. Cutlets or steaks, 
the fillet and the fricandeaM or cushion are cut from the 
thickest part of the leg. The Join is used for chops or 
roasts, the breast for roasts and the neck for stews or for 
soup. The head is also used for soup, the heart for 
stewing and pickling, and the liver in many ways. 

ROAST VEAL. 

Wipe the meat, dredge with salt, pepper and flour, and 
place it in a pan, pouring a little w^ater in the bottom of 
the pan. Roast from twenty to thirty minutes for every 
pound of veal. Baste every twenty minutes with half a 
pint of warm water into which has been melted a tea- 
spoonful of butter, using the liquid in the bottom of the 
pan for basting as soon as there is sufficient. Make a 
gravy the same as for any roast, using the liquid in the pan. 

STUFFED BREAST OF VEAL. 

Make an incision between the ribs and the meat to 



MEATS. 159 

form a cavity, in which to place the stuffing. The butcher 
will, however, prepare the veal for stuffing, if ordered to 
do so. Use for the stuffing 

One cupful of bread-crumbs. 
One-quarter pound of fat' salt pork. 
One tea-spoonful of sweet marjoram. 
One tea-spoonful of thyme. 
One tea-spoonful of salt. 
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 

The pork should be chopped very fine and will make 
about a large table-spoonful when chopped. Butter may 
be used in its place, if preferred. Roast the same as 
directed in the preceding receipt. 

VEAL CUTLETS. 

Wipe the cutlets, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, 
dip them first in beaten ^gg and then in fine bread or 
cracker-crumbs, and fry in drippings until brown. The 
cutlets should be thoroughly browned on both sides. 
Place them on a platter, add a little water to the gravy in 
the pan, and thicken slightly wdth a table-spoonful of 
flour wet in a little water. Strain the gravy, if it is not 
entirely smooth. 

VEAL AND HAM. 

These are often dressed together. Heat the frying- 
pan hot, and fry the ham, using no fat unless the meat is 
unusually lean. When the ham is cooked, place it on the 
serving dish, and cook the veal in the juices left from the 
ham, frying without covering until it is a deep brown. 
After the veal is done, add a little water to the gravy, 
season with pepper, and pour it without thickening over 



l6o THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

the meat. The gravy will scarcely need salt, unless the 
ham is rather fresh. 

VEAL STEW, WITH DUMPLINGS. 

The ends of the ribs, the neck and the knuckle may be 
utilized for a stew. 

Three pounds of veal. 

Two small onions. 

Five potatoes. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One cupful of milk. 

Salt and pepper. 

Cut the meat into pieces the size of a tea-cup, and 
place them in a kettle with the onion, salt and pepper 
and enough water to just cover them. Smimer gently 
until the meat is tender, about an hour being generally 
sufficient. Strips of salt pork are sometimes cooked 
in with the veal and add much to the flavor. Half 
an hour before serving add the potatoes, cut in halves, 
and boil them with the meat. Use for the dumplings 

One pint of flour. 

One-half a large table-spoonful of lard. 

One tea-spoonful of baking-powder. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Milk to moisten. 

Stir the baking-powder and salt into the flour, and rub 
in the lard with a spoon until the whole is thoroughly 
mixed. Add enough milk to moisten the flour, and 
make a dough, taking care not to make the mixture 
too wet. Flour the baking-board, roll the dough out 
an inch thick, and cut out as for biscuit. Put the pieces 
on a plate, set the plate in a steamer over the stew, and 



MEATS. l6i 

Steam twenty minutes. When the dumpHngs.are done, 
place them on a platter, and with a skimmer lift the meat 
and potato from the kettle and lay them on the platter. 
Add the milk and butter to the gravy in the kettle, and 
thicken with a little flour stirred to a thin, smooth paste 
with water. Pour the gravy over the meat and dump- 
hngs. If the stew should seem quite boiled down, the 
dumphngs should be steamed over a separate kettle of 
boiling water, as the rapid boiling necessary for their 
cooking reduces the stew very much. 

Another mode of cooking the dumplings is to boil them 
in with the stew ; but they are very apt to be heavy 
unless served the moment they are done, which in some 
homes is not always possible. The steamed dumplings 
can always be relied upon to be light. 

VEAL LOAF. 

This may be served cold for luncheon or tea, or hot 
with the sauce given in the recipe. 

Two and a-half pounds of veal. 
One-half pound of salt pork. 
Two tea-spoonfuls of salt. 
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper. 
One tea-spoonful of chopped onion. 
One-half cupful of cracker crumbs. 
One-quarter cupful of water or stock, 
One egg. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 
One-half tea-spoonful of sage. 

Chop the veal and pork very fine, and add the other 
ingredients, except the butter. Mix all well together 
with the hands. Butter a small pan or deep pie-tin, and 



l62 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

press the mixture into it like a loaf, making it about three 
inches high. Cook for two hours in a rather hot oven, 
basting with another half cupful of water or stock in 
which the butter has been melted. Serve with the foUow- 
lowing sauce : 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 
Two table-spoonfuls of flour. 
One cupful of milk. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 

Heat the butter hot, and stir in the flour. When the 
above ingredients are well browned, draw the pan back 
and slowly add the milk. Boil three minutes, stirring all 
the time; add salt and pepper, and set back to keep hot. 
Pour into the sauce the gravy that remains in the pan 
after baking the loaf, and having stirred the sauce well, 
turn it over the loaf and serve. 

JELLIED VEAL. 

Any cheap pieces of veal will do for this dish, which is 
very nice for luncheon or supper. 

Three pounds of veal. 

One table-spoonful of chopped onion. 

One-half table-spoonful of sage or any other herbs available. 

Salt and pepper. 

Cut the meat in pieces, and stew slowly in a very little 
water. When tender take it from the kettle and chop 
fine. Then return the meat to the kettle, with the water 
it was cooked in, and add salt and pepper, the sage and 
onion, and a bit of celery or parsley if it is to be had, 
chopping all the vegetables very fine. Cook ten minutes, 
and pour into a square tin. When cold cut into slices 



MEATS. 163 

and serve. Care should be taken not too use too much 
water for cooking the veal 

STUFFED PEPPERS. (A SOUTHERN DISH.) 

This is one of the most satisfactory ways of using cold 
veal. The peppers should be large and green and not 
too thick. Carefully cut round the tops of the peppers 
about half an inch from the stem, dig out all the seeds, 
and cut out the " partitions " or thick pieces inside the 
peppers. Soak the peppers and tops in salted water over 
night, changing for fresh water in the morning. Chop the 
veal rather fine, and season with salt, but no pepper. 
Wipe the peppers dry, place in each, as it is being pre- 
pared, a small piece of butter, and fill it v^^ilh the chopped 
veal, placing another bit of butter on top of the meat. 
Fit the tops, and sew them on with coarse thread. 
When all are stuffed and sewed, place them in a kettle 
with water enough to nearly cover them, adding a table- 
spoonful of butter to the water. Stew slowly, turning 
the peppers occasionally, until they look shiny and semi- 
transparent. This will take a full hour. Take them up 
very carefully with a skimmer so they will not break, lay 
them on the serving dish, and carefully remove the 
threads. Thicken the gravy in the kettle with a little 
flour or corn-starch wet in a little water, adding salt if 
needed, and, if not very rich, adding also a spoonful of 
butter. Pour this on the peppers, and serve. Should 
there be any gravy left from a roast of veal, turn it into 
the kettle before stewing the peppers ; and in this case 
use no butter. 

If it should be found necessary to hurry this dish, the 
peppers may be soaked on the back of the range by plac- 



164 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

ing them in cold water and changing the water as soon as 
well warmed ; in this way, with frequent changes, the 
peppers will soak sufficiently to make them edible in 
four hours. This dish may seem difficult to prepare, but 
it is really easy and fully repays the little " fussing " that 
many weary of in work of any kind. 

Ps. fricandeau of veal. 

This is by far the choicest considered cut of the 
veal, and is a thick piece of lean meat cut from the top 
of the leg. It is always trimmed high in the center, and 
thin at the outside, making really a little mound of meat. 
Lard the top, and braise it in a braising pan the same as 
braised beef. When done, dish the meat, very slightly 
thicken the juices in the bottom of the pan, strain, and 
turn the gravy over X^io. fricandeau. 

calf's liver and bacon. 

Calf's liver is considered quite a delicacy and is always 
expensive. It is rarely served without bacon as an 
accompaniment. Cut the bacon in very thin slices, 
place them in a hot frying-pan, and turn constantly until 
all are crisp ; then take them up and keep hot. Cut 
the liver a-quarter of an inch thick, wash it in cold water, 
and dry on a napkin. Place the frying-pan where the 
heat will not be so great as when the bacon was cooked, 
and fry the liver ten minutes, turning it frequently. 
Place the liver in the center of the platter, with the bacon 
around it as a garnish. 

Stir a table-spoonful of flour into the hot fat in the 
pan, and stir until brown. Set the pan back, and grad- 
ually add enough boiling water to make the gravy. Sea- 



MEATS. 165 

son with pepper and salt, and pour the gravy over the 
liver and bacon. Slow cooking spoils bacon, and rapid 
cooking hardens and toughens liver. 

calf's liver, creamed. 

Two pounds of liver. 

One pint of milk. 

Five table-spoonfuls of butter. 

Three tea-spoonfuls of flour. 

One slice of onion. 

Salt and pepper. 

Cut the liver in small pieces, cover with cold water for 
ten minutes, and drain. Heat the butter, put in ihe liver, 
seasoning it with salt and pepper, and cook slowly eight 
minutes, browning it on all sides ; then take up the liver, 
and place it where it will keep warm. Place the onion m 
the frying-pan, and cook one minute ; add the flour, and 
cook, constantly stirring, until it begins to froth. Draw 
the pan back, gradually add the cold milk and cook one 
minute, stirring all the time. Place the liver in the pan 
with the gravy, cover the pan, and stew very slowly five 
minutes longer. This is a pleasant dish for breakfast, 
luncheon or tea. 

LIVER HASH. 

One pint of cooked liver. 
One cupful of cold water. 
One table-spoonful of butter. 
One tea-spoonful of flour. 
One tea-spoonful of lemon- juice. 
Salt and pepper. 

Cut the liver into pieces the size of a penny, and meas- 
ure after cutting. Heat the butter, and stir in the flour, 



1 66 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

cooking and stirring until brown; then add the water 
gradually, and season wiih salt and pepper. Place the 
liver in this sauce, and simmer very gently twenty min- 
utes. Add the lemon juice, and serve very hot. 

BAKED calf's LIVER, WITH STUFFING. 

Wash the liver well in cold, salted water. Make an 
incision in the thickest part with a long, narrow, sharp 
knife, enlarging the aperture where the blade enters as 
little as possible, but moving the point of the knife to 
and fro to increase the size of the cavity inside. Fill 
with the following stuffing : 

One pint of bread-crumbs. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One-half a small onion. 

Sage, celery and parsley, if at hand 

Chop the onion fine, place it in a bowl, and pour 
scalding water on it. Let it stand only a half minute, 
when pour the water off; this takes away the very rank 
taste of the onion. Rub the butter well into the crumbs, 
using the hands ; this should be done at least half an 
hour before the stuffing is needed, as the flavor will be 
greatly improved by the butter and crumbs remaining 
together for a time. Add a tea-spoonful of each of the 
herbs, if they are available, and also the onion and the 
salt and pepper ; the stuffing is then ready to use. This 
makes a delightfully crumbly stuffing, not the paste that 
is often called by that name. 

After filling the liver with stuffing, season with salt 
and pepper, and flour it. Place it in a roasting pan. 



MEATS. 167 

adding a little water, and lay strips of fat pork over the 
liver. Roast for one hour. Baste every twenty minutes, 
the first time with half a pint of water in which has been 
placed a table-spoonful of butter, and afterward with 
the gravy in the pan. When the liver is done, place it on 
a hot platter, thicken the gravy in the pan the same as 
for any roast (See " Roasting "), and pour it around 
and over the liver. 

calf's head, to clean. 

A calf's head may usually be purchased from the 
butcher already cleaned, but for the benefit of those who 
prefer, or are compelled, to clean it themselves, the 
proper mode of procedure is here given. Place the head 
in warm water for five minutes ; then lift it out and pow- 
der the hair with pulverized resin. The resin is not in- 
dispensable, but it facilitates the operation. Have ready 
a large kettle of scalding water, and after using the pow- 
der, plunge the head into the kettle, covering every part. 
Raise it after one minute, hold it by the ear, and care- 
fully scrape off all the hair. Then lay the head on a 
board, saw it in halves lengthwise through the skull, and 
take out the eyes, brain and tongue. Scrape the ear, 
nasal and throat passages well, scalding them if they 
do not seem perfectly clean ; and remove the gristle that 
is around the nose. Break the jaw-bone, remove the 
gums and teeth, and lay the head in a large panful of 
water to soak. 

Half a head is generally enough to serve at one time. 

STEV/ED calf's HEAD, WITH BRAIN SAUCE. 

Put the head in slightly salted water, and boil until 



1 68 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

the meat is tender ; then take it up, and drain well. 
Score the top a little, rub it over with melted butter, 
dredge with flour, and place it in the oven in a baking 
pan to brown. When browned, pour over the head the 
following sauce : 

BRAIN SAUCE. 

Soak the brains for half an hour in cold water. Re- 
move the membrane that covers them, and make sure 
they are perfectly w^hite and free of blood-filled veins 
by cleansing them again and again in fresh water. Place 
them in a piece of cheese-cloth, tie the ends, and stew 
them half, an hour in enough water to cover.; then take 
them out, remove the cloth, after draining well, and 
mash them with the back of a strong spoon. Add 
gradually, that the mixture may not be lumpy, a small 
tea-cupful of the water in which the head was boiled ; also 
season with salt and pepper, a large spoonful of butter, a 
pinch of sage and powdered cloves, and a tea-spoonful of 
chopped parsley, if it is available. Set the sauce on the 
fire to simmer gently while the head is browning. 

calf's head cheese. 

One calf's head. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One tea-spoonfnl of summer savory. 

One table-spoonful of chopped parsley. 

One tea-spoonful of chopped onion. 

One tea-spoonful of sweet marjoram. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One tea-spoonful of sage. 

Place the head in enough hot water to cover it, and 
simmer until the meat will leave the bone. Take out the 



I 



MEATS. 169 

head very carefully on a skimmer, remove the bones, 
chop the meat, and add the seasoning. Have ready a 
small bag made of cheese-cloth, pack the mixture into it, 
tie the bag tightly, and hang it away to cool. When 
cold, turn the bag wrong side out off the meat. Serve 
cold for lunch or tea, cutting the cheese into thin slices. 

SCALLOPED calf's BRAINS. 

Two sets of brains. 

One pint of bread-crumbs. 

One egg. 

One table-spoonful of vinegar. 

One table-spoonful- of butter. 

One-half of a tea-spoonful of flour. 

One-half of a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley. 

One-half of a tea-spoonful of onion juice. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Soak the brains for two hours in warm water, free 
them from the skin and large fibres, and wash in cold 
water. Tie them loosely in a piece of thin muslin, 
and place in enough boiling water to cover, adding the 
vinegar to the water. Boil thirty minutes, take out the 
brains, and plunge them into cold water. When cold, 
drain, and cut them into small pieces. Now make 
a sauce thus : Place the butter in a frying-pan, and when 
hot, add the flour. Stir until smooth and frothy, and 
then gradually add the milk. As soon as the liquid 
boils, add the parsley, onion juice and half the pepper 
and salt, the other half being sprinkled on the brains. 
Beat the ^gg^ and add it to the brains, mixing well. 
Spread a layer of crumbs on the bottom of a baking-dish, 



I/O THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

then half the brains, then a layer of the sauce, and finally 
a layer of crumbs. Again arrange a layer of brains and 
sauce, and finish with crumbs. Bake twenty minutes in a 
moderate oven. It makes the dish richer, but not so 
delicate, to strew bits of butter on the top layer of 
crumbs. Serve in the dish the scallop is made in. 

SWEETBREADS. 

Sweetbreads are two glands lying along the back of the 
throat and breast. The lower one is round and compact, 
and is called the "heart" sweetbread, because nearer the 
heart ; the upper or " throat " sweetbread is long and 
narrow and is easily divided into sections. The connect- 
ing membrane is sometimes broken and each gland sold 
as a whole sweetbread, but there should always be two. 
The sweetbreads of calves and young lambs are those 
used for food. Lamb sweetbreads are usually left in the 
fore-quarter and are rarely cooked separately. They are, 
however, sometimes sold by the pound or pair like those 
of veal. 

Sweetbreads are prime only so long as the animal is 
fed chiefly on milk; for when the beast is fed on grass 
for only one or two weeks before being slaughtered, the 
sweetbreads will be dark, flabby, and tough, whereas if 
fed on milk they will be white, firm and tender. They 
spoil very quickly and cannot be kept long, even on ice. 
Sweetbreads should be put in cold water as soon as pur- 
chased, and parboiled before being used in any other 
form. They were formerly thrown away as worthless, 
but the demand for them has so increased, that now they 
are considered a luxury and are rarely sold in the larger 
cities for less than thirty cents a pair, while in the winter 



MEATS. 171 

tliey often bring as much as a dollar and a-half a pair. 
They are cheapest in the late spring and summer. 

TO PREPARE SWEETBREADS. 

Remove the pipes and membranes, soak the sweet- 
breads for one hour in cold water. At the end of this 
time place them in slightly salted, boiling water, and 
boil for fifteen minutes. In parboiling sweetbreads 
always use a porcelain or granite-ware saucepan, and 
also use a silver knife for cutting, as they contain a 
peculiar phosphoric acid that acts upon iron or tin in 
such a way as to entirely destroy their own flavor. When 
they have boiled fifteen minutes, place them in cold 
water for fi^e minutes ; then take them up, drain and 
dry them, and put in the coldest place available until 
needed for use. 

FRIED SWEETBREADS. 

Parboil as directed, and cut the sweetbreads in even- 
sized pieces; sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip them 
first in beaten o.^^ and then in bread or cracker-crumbs, 
and fry in hot lard. When well browned on both sides, 
place them on a platter. Turn out part of the fat in 
which they were fried, leaving in the pan only a table- 
spoonful. Stir into this hot fat a table-spoonful of flour, 
and stir well until frothy; then set the pan back a little 
and gradually add a cupful of milk, stirring all the 
time. Season with salt and pepper, and cook about two 
minutes. Strain, and pour over the sweetbreads. Fried 
sweetbreads are served in many ways. They are often 
dished with green peas, cooked rather dry and placed in 
a mound or little hill in the center of the platter, the 



I ']2 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

sweetbreads being laid around." Macaroni may be boiled 
very tender and laid on the platter and the sweetbreads 
placed in the center, the pipes of the macaroni being laid 
about them like a little nest. 

BAKED SWEETBREADS. 

One pair of sweetbreads. 
One-third of a medium-sized onion. 
Four slices of carrot. 
One stalk of celery. 
One sprig of parsley. 

Place in the bottom of a baking dish a few thin slices 
of salt, pork, and on these lay the sweetbreads, which 
should have been parboiled as directed. Over the sweet- 
breads sprinkle the vegetables chopped fine, and bake for 
twenty minutes in a hot oven. Cut a large slice of bread 
into an oval shape, fry it brown in a frying-pan, and 
place the sweetbreads on it. Serve with peas or with 
tomato sauce (see index). 

STEWED SWEETBREADS. 

Parboil as directed, and put the sweetbreads in a very 
little water to stew. When tender, add for each sweet- 
bread a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley and a-quarter 
of a cupful of cream, and season with salt and pepper. 
Let them simmer for five minutes, when served in a cov- 
ered dish with the gravy. 

SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES. 

Two pairs of sweetbreads. 
One-half pint of cream. 
One-third tea-spoonful of pepper. 
One-half tea-spoonful of parsley. 



MEATS. 173 

Four table-spoonfuls of mushrooms. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

One table-spoonful of flour. 

One table-spoonful of lemon juice. 

One table-spoonful of salt. 

Two eggs. 

Parboil and cool the sweetbreads as directed, and chop 
them rather fine ; then add the chopped mushrooms, and 
also the seasoning. Put the cream on the fire, and heat 
slowly. Rub the flour and butter well together, and stir 
them into the cream when it boils, stirring until smooth. 
Now add the sweetbread mixture, stir well, and simmer 
for three minutes. Next put into the boiling mass the 
well beaten eggs, stir quickly, and remove from the 
fire at once. Pour this mixture on a platter and set it 
away to cool, allowing at least two hours for the purpose. 
Shape into cylinders with the hands, roll them in beaten 
itgg and then in bread or cracker-crumbs, and fry in 
plenty of hot lard, using the frying basket, if you have 
one. Serve with white sauce or Bechamel sauce (see 
index). 

MUTTON. 

In England mutton is always hung some time before 
being used and is always delicious ; but if hung the same 
length of time in American air, the meat would be simply 
unfit to eat. This is not generally understood, but the 
fact remains the same, nevertheless. 

Mutton has a strong flavor that is disagreeable to 
many ; it is said to be caused by the oil from the wool, 
which penetrates the fat. In chops the pink skin above 
the fat should always be removed. The caul or lining 



1 74 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

membrane of the abdomen is wrapped around the leg 
when offered for sale in the markets, and is often left on 
in roasting to help baste the meat. Some cooks affirm 
that it imparts a strong flavor to the meat and, therefore, 
remove it before roasting, basting with some of the kid- 
ney fat, if necessary. The wisdom or consistency of this, 
however, is open to doubt. The best roasts are the leg, 
the saddle and the shoulder. Mutton is generally served 
rare, but this is a matter of taste. 

BOILED LEG OF MUTTON, WITH CAPER SAUCE. 

Put the mutton in a kettle, pour over it boiling water 
sufficient to cover, and add a cupful of well washed rice, 
which will render the mutton whiter and more tender. 
When the water boils, skim it carefully, and allow it to 
boil rapidly fifteen minutes ; then set the kettle where 
the boiling will be gentle but constant, and allow fifteen 
minutes to each pound, if the meat is desired rare. 
Serve with 

CAPER SAUCE. 

Two table-spoonfuls of flour. 
One table-spoonful of lemon juice. 
Three table-spoonfuls of capers. 
One-half cupful of butter 
One pint of boiling water. 
One-eighth tea-spoonful of pepper. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

Beat the flour and butter to a cream, and add the boil- 
ing water. Set the mixture on the fire, and stir it con- 
stantly until heated to the boiling point ; then put in sea- 
soning, lemon juice and capers, and serve, either by 



MEATS. 175 

pouring it over the leg of mutton or else in a separate 
dish, as may be preferred. 

Another and very superior way of finishing a leg of 
mutton is to salt and pepper it after taking it from the 
water, dredge well with flour, place it on a meat-rack 
in a dripping-pan, and brown half an hour in a very hot 
oven. If this is done, but ten minutes to a pound will 
suffice in the boiling. 

BAKED LEG OF MUTTON. 

Wipe the mutton with a damp cloth, sprinkle it with 
salt, pepper and flour, and place on a meat-rack in a 
roasting-pan ; add a cupful of water in the pan and 
roast in a hot oven, allowing fifteen minutes to a pound. 
Baste every ten minutes, adding more water, if needed, 
and dredging with a slight sprinkle of flour, salt and 
pepper at each basting. When done serve on a platter. 
Place the dripping-pan upon the top of the stove, and 
drain off all but two table-spoonfuls of the fat. Add 
a little water, and thicken with a small quantity of flour 
wet to a paste in cold water, adding a little of the paste at 
a time and stirring constantly until the gravy is of the 
desired consistency. Pour a couple of spoonfuls of the 
gravy on the meat just before sending it to table, and 
place the remainder in a sauce-boat. Always serve 
currant or some other tart jelly with roast mutton. 

MUTTON a la Venison. 

Wash a saddle of mutton inside and out with cider 
vinegar. Do not wipe it, but hang up to dry in a cold, 
dry place — not in the cellar if it can possibly be avoided, 
as the moisture of a cellar is disastrous to meat. 



176 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

When the vinegar has dried on the meat, throw a clean 
cloth about it to keep off any possible dust. Sponge 
in this way every other day for two weeks. When 
ready to cook, wipe the meat with a cloth, but do not 
wash it. Roast the mutton, basting for the first hour 
with butter and water, and afterward with the gravy in 
the pan. Add to the gravy just before serving half a tea- 
cupful of walnut, nriushroom or tomato catsup and a glass 
of Madeira, making the gravy the same as directed in the 
preceding recipe. Mutton prepared in this way strongly 
resembles venison. 

STUFFED AND ROLLED SHOULDER OF MUTTON. 

Have the butcher remove the bones from a shoulder 
piece. Wipe the meat carefully, and dredge with flour, 
after sprinkling with salt and pepper. Make the follow- 
ing 

STUFFING. 

One pint of bread-crumbs. 
One table-spoonful of butter. 
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper. 
One-half an onion. 
One tea-spoonful of dried herbs. 
One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Rub the butter and crumbs well together, and let them 
stand at least an hour. Chop the onion fine, pour boil- 
ing water over it, and drain off almost immediately. 
This removes the rank taste of the onion. Add the chop- 
ped onion to the crumbs, and also the salt and pepper, and 



MEATS. 177 

the herbs, if there are any. Spread the meat with this 
dressing, roll it up, and skewer it together, or else tie it 
around with clean twine if there are no skewers. Put 
half a pint of water in the bottom of the baking pan, and, 
placing the meat on a rack (see " Kitchen Utensils "), roast 
the same as directed for a baked leg of mutton, basting 
frequently. Allow about twenty minutes to a pound in 
baking with a stuffing. 

MUTTON STEW. 

Three pounds of shoulder of mutton. 

One-half pound of salt pork. 

One large onion. 

One cupful of milk. 

Two table-spoonfuls of flour. 

Salt and pepper. 

The inferior parts of the sheep will do well for this 
dish, which m^akes an economical dinner. Trim the 
mutton of every particle of fat, and cut it into pieces half 
the size of a tea-cup ; nearly cover with hot water, place 
it on the fire and let it simmer slowly, closely covered, for 
half an hour. Then add the pork and onion, season to 
taste with salt and pepper, and stew slowly until the meat 
is tender. Lift the meat out with a skimmer, and place 
it on the serving dish ; and add the milk to the gravy in 
the kettle. When the gravy is hot, add the flour stirred to 
a paste with a little cold milk. When these are well cooked 
together, taste the gravy, and add more seasoning if nec- 
essary ; then pour it over the mutton, and serve. If green 
corn IS in season, add the grains from six ears an 
hour before the stew is done. 



178 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

SCALLOPED MUTTON. 

One pint of cold, chopped meat. 
One-quarter tea-spoontul of pepper. 
One tea-spoonful of salt. 
One table-spoonful of butter. 
One tea-spoonful of flour. 
One cupful of water. 

Chop the meat rather coarsely, and add the salt and 
pepper. Heat the butter, and stir in the flour ; when 
browned darkly, add the water, and season the gravy 
thus made with salt and pepper. Arrange alternate 
layers of meat and gravy in a baking dish, using three 
layers of gravy and two of the mutton, thus ending with 
gravy. Cover the top with a light sprinkling of bread- 
crumbs, and bake twenty minutes in a hot oven. This 
dish may be prepared the day before, if needed for break- 
fast, and set in a cold place. 

FRENCH CHOPS. 

These are cut from the ribs and are trimmed by the 
butcher, who removes all the fat and scrapes the bone 
clean for a little distance from the end. Broil over 
a quick fire, adding salt, pepper and butter before 
serving. These chops may also be cooked by frying, in 
which case they are first seasoned with salt and pepper 
and dipped in beaten egg and then in cracker-crumbs. 
French chops may be prettily served by making a mound 
of mashed potatoes and laymg the chops around it, with 
the bone end upward and resting upon the potatoes, 
These chops are generally served with peas. 



ME A TS. 1 79 

MUTTON CUTLETS, WITH SPANISH SAUCE. 

Have the cutlets cut from the ribs, one inch and a-half 
thick, and trimmed like French chops. With a sharp 
knife split each chop in two without separating the meat 
from the bone. Then make the following filling for six 
chops : 

Four table-spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms. 

One table-spoonful of chopped onion. 

One table-spoonful of flour. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

Three table-spoonful of water or stock. 

One tea-spoonful of parsley. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-fifth of a tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Cook the butter and onion together for five minutes, 
add the mushrooms and seasoning, and cook for five min- 
utes longer. Add the flour, and stir well ; then put in 
the water, and cook three minutes. Turn the filling out 
on a plate and when cool, spread it inside the chops, pres- 
sing them lightly together. 

Broil for eight minutes over a clear fire, arrange on a 
warm platter, and pour over them the 

SPANISH SAUCE. 

One and a-quarter pints of stock. 

One ounce of lean ham. 

One bay-leaf. 

Three table-spoonfuls of gelatine. 

Four table-spoonfuls of flour. 

Four table-spoonfuls of butter. 

Two table-spoonfuls of chopped onion. 

One table-spoonful of chopped carrot. * 



l8o THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

One table-spoonful of chopped celery. 
One sprig of parsley. 
Two cloves. 
A bit of mace. 
Salt and pepper. 

Soak the gelatine an hour in a little of the stock ; 
also cook the butter and the vegetables together for ten 
minutes, being careful to avoid burning; then add the 
flour, and when brown, draw the pan back, gradually add 
the stock, and boil three minutes, stirring all the time. 

Add the herbs and spice, and place the vessel where 
the sauce will simmer for two hours. Add the gelatine at 
the end of that time, and cook fifteen minutes. Skim the 
fat off and strain, when it is ready to pour on the cutlets. 
Cutlets prepared in this way are considered one of the 
most fashionable entrees for company dinners^ 

MUTTON CROQUETTES (an Entree). 

One pint of chopped meat. 
One cupful of milk or cream. 
Two eggs. 

One table-spoonful of lemon juice. 
One-half of a table-spoonful of salt. 
Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 
Two table-spoonfuls of flour. 
One-half of a tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Chop the meat rather fine, and add the salt, lemon- 
juice and pepper. Put the milk in a small frying-pan. 
Stir the butter and flour to a cream, and when the milk 
boils, stir in the mixture slowly. Cook one minute, stir- 
ring all the time ; then add the chopped meat, and let all 
boil together three minutes. Beat the eggs, add them, 



MEATS. l8l 

stirring thoroughly, and remove from the fire at once ; 
turn out the whole upon a platter to cool. Sprinkle a 
board lightly with crumbs ; and when the mixture is cool, 
take a spoonful in the hands, shape it to a cylindrical 
form, and roll it lightly upon the board. Continue thus 
until all the croquettes have been formed, being careful to 
roll each one in the crumbs. When all are done, dip 
each in beaten ^g'g and again in crumbs, and fry in a fry- 
ing-basket. The croquettes should brown in two minutes 
if cooked in this way. Those who have not a frying-bas- 
ket may use a frying-pan, cooking the croquettes until 
they are a nice brown color. The fat must be very 
hot or the croquettes will break. If this dish should be 
desired for breakfast, the croquettes may be shaped the 
day before and kept in a cool place, being dipped in the 
egg and the second covering of crumbs in the morning. 
If onion is liked, a tea-spoonful of onion juice may be 
added with the other seasoning. 

MUTTON AND OYSTER SAUSAGES. 

One pound of rare cooked meat. 

One table-spoonful of salt. 

One- half tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One-third pound of beef suet. 

One pint of oysters. 

One-half a pint (scant) of bread-crumbs. 

Two eggs. 

One onion. 

One table-spoonful of herbs. 

Chop the meat very fine, and add the seasoning, which 
may be more than that given above, a bit of celery, pars- 
ley and any herbs available being proper. Chop the suet 



l82 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

very fine, and also the oysters ; then mix all well 
together, form into small balls, and fry. A couple of 
anchovies may be added to the seasoning. 

LAMB. 

The best roasts are the fore and hind quarters. Lamb 
will not keep like mutton, and it should be used not 
longer than three days after killing. Like veal, it should 
be thoroughly cooked. 

ROAST LAMB, WITH MINT SAUCE. 

If the roast is from the breast, make a stuffing as 
directed for a rolled shoulder of mutton on page 176, and 
fill the place made for the stuffing. Wipe the meat, 
dredge with salt, pepper and flour, place a cupful of 
water in the roasting-pan, and roast the meat on a rack, 
basting often and allowing fifteen minutes to a pound. 
Serve hot on a platter. Accompanying the roast in a 
separate dish will be the 

MINT SAUCE. 

Pick the leaves from the mint stalks until there is half 
a pint. Wash the leaves, drain well, and place them 
in an earthenware bowl. Then, using a knife and 
fork, cut them mto very small pieces. Do not use a 
wooden bowl, for half of the mint oil will be absorbed by 
the wood. When the mint is well chopped, stir in a 
table-spoonful of sugar, mix thoroughly, and pour in half 
a pint of hot vinegar. Cover tightly, and serve after 
three minutes. Some cooks pour the vinegar on cold, 
and serve the same after it has stood one hour. This is 
a matter of taste. 



MEATS. 183 

LAMB CHOPS. 

These are broiled the same as French chops. Wlxen 
intended to be served at a luncheon as an entree, they are 
broiled in paper cases, in the following manner: Mold 
and cut sheets of thick white writing-paper, so that when 
opened they will be heart-s,haped, making each sheet 
nine by four and a-half inches in size. Dip the cases in 
olive oil or melted butter, being careful that no part re- 
mains unoiled. Have the chops cut from the ribs and 
prepared the same as French chops. Season with salt 
and pepper, and dip them in melted butter. Place 
each chop on one side of a paper, with the bone toward 
the center, fold the paper together, and roll the edges to 
keep them closed. Broil eight minutes over a moderate 
fire. Serve on a hot dish in the papers in which they 
were broiled. The success of paper broiling lies in get- 
ting every part of the paper well oiled. The broiler 
should be turned almost constantly while the chops are 
cooking. 

BROILED BREAST OF LAMB. 

This is a very delicious dish, but the broiling must 
be done carefully. The fire should not be too bright 
or the meat will soon scorch. Lay the inside of the 
meat toward the fire first and broil very moderately, 
turning the meat often. When done, butter slightly, and 
season with salt and pepper. The breast of lamb is sold 
in most markets with the fore-leg attached ; this should 
be cut off before the piece is broiled, for, being so thick 
in comparison with the rest of the piece, it is difficult 
to cook it sufficiently. A stew may be made of the leg 
piece, or it may go with other pieces to make soup. 



1 84 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

PORK. 

This is an unwholesome meat, and is very undesirable 
for children and people with weak digestions. It should 
never be seen on the table, except in cold weather, unless, 
of course, in the form of smoked meat (ham or bacon). 
Salt pork, bacon and ham are less objectionable than 
fresh pork ; in fact, salt pork and bacon should always be 
kept at hand in the kitchen to use in cooking other meats. 
In the country remote from the markets it is next to im- 
possible even in summer for the housekeeper to pro- 
vide for the table without a generous supply of bacon, 
ham and salt pork ; but the danger is less in these 
homes, for the animals are fed on corn, and generally are 
so cared for that diseased meat is almost an impossi- 
bility. 

There is no part of the pig that is not used ; conse- 
quently to the poor man he is a very profitable animal. 
Pork requires a great deal of cooking, for when under- 
done the danger from eating it is very much increased. 

ROAST LITTLE PIG. 

The pig should be about three weeks old. The 
butcher draws and scrapes it, but the cook must clean it. 
Cover the point of a wooden skewer with a piece of soft 
cloth, and work the skewer into the ears to clean them. 
Cleanse the nostrils in the same way, and also the vent 
near the tail. Scrape the tongue, lips and gums with a 
sharp knife, wipe them with a soft cloth, and take out the 
eyes. Wash the pig well with cold water, wipe dry, and 
rub a table-spoonful of salt on the inside of the pig. 
Make the following 



MEATS. 185 

STUFFING FOR ROAST PIG. 

Three pints of bread-crumbs. 
Three tea-spoonfuls of salt. 
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper. 
One table-spoonful of powdered sage. 
Three table-spoonfuls of butter. 
One chopped onion. 

Mix well together, first rubbing the butter into the 
crumbs, and then adding the seasoning; and fill the body 
with the stuffing. Press the fore-feet forward and the 
hind-feet backward, and skewer them to position. Force 
the mouth open, and place a small block of wood between 
the teeth. Butter two sheets of paper and pin them 
about the ears. Sprinkle the pig with salt, rub it all over 
with soft butter, and dredge with flour. Then place it 
in the roasting-pan, and cook at least three hours and 
a-half, basting every fifteen or twenty minutes with butter 
or salad oil, and sprinkling lightly with salt and flour after 
each basting. Water should not be used, if the surface 
of the meat is desired crisp. Remove the paper from the 
ears during the last half hour. When ready to serve, re- 
move the block from the mouth, inserting in its place a 
small ear of corn or a small lemon. Serve apple sauce 
with this dish. In carving a roast pig, the head is cut 
off first, the meat split down the back, the hams and 
shoulders taken off and the ribs separated. A portion of 
the stuffing is served to each person. 

ROAST LEG OF PORK. 

The pieces used for roasting are the spare-rib, the 
chine or loin, the leg and the shoulder. If the leg is to 
be roasted, score the skin in squares, or in parallel lines 



1 86 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

running from side to side. Put very little water in the 
pan under the meat, sprinkle the latter with salt and pep- 
per, dredge lightly with flour, and roast twenty-five min- 
utes to a pound. Pour off all but two table-spoonfuls of 
the fat. Place the pan on top of the stove, and when 
hot, stir in two table-spoonfuls of flour. Cook one min- 
ute, and add a pint of hot water, stirring constantly. Let 
the gravy cook three minutes, and season with salt and 
pepper. Those who do not object to a hint of onion in 
flavoring will find it a great addition to place a small 
onion in the pan while the meat is roasting. This, of 
course, is removed before the gravy is made ; but it takes 
off the extreme " pig " flavor that is so disagreeable and 
noticeable in old pork. 

ROAST LOIN OR SHOULDER. 

The loin and the shoulder are roasted the same as the 
leg, twenty minutes to a pound being allowed for the loin 
and twenty-five minutes for the shoulder. 

ROAST SPARE-RIB. 

Trim off the ends neatly, crack the ribs across the mid- 
dle, and sprinkle with salt and pt ^oer. Whei- the meat 
is first put in to roast cover it with greased paper until 
half done ; then remove the paper and dredge with flour. 
In ten minutes baste once with butler and afterward 
every fifteen minutes with the gravy. This is a necessity, 
for the spare-rib is a very dry piece. Just before taking 
the pork from the oven, strew its surface with bread- 
crumbs seasoned with a little powdered sage, salt and pep- 
per, and a bit of onion minced as fine as possible. Cook 
five minutes, and baste once more. Make the gravy as 



ME A TS. I 87 

directed for a roast leg of pork; strain, and pour it over 
the meat or serve in a gravy dish, as may be preferred. 
Spare-ribs may be filled with the stuffing given for a roast 
little pig, half the quantity specified being used. The ribs 
are cracked crosswise the entire length in two places, and 
the stuffing is placed in the center and the two ends 
folded over and tied. 

BROILED PORK STEAK. 

When pork is to be broiled, it should be cut very thin 
indeed, and salted and peppered. Many cooks wTap 
greased paper around the meat. 

The broiling of pork is a delicate operation, since the 
meat must be so thoroughly cooked. 

FRIED PORK CHOPS. 

Place a table-spoonful of drippings in a frying-pan. 
Dust the chops with salt, pepper and flour, and fry slowly 
until of a fine brown. Thicken the gravy in the pan as 
directed for the roasts, and pour it over the meat. 

PORK TENDERLOINS. 

These are the choicest cuts of the pork and correspond 
to the fillet of beef. They are solid meat, and although 
rather high-priced, are not as expensive as would at first 
appear, since there is no bone or waste of any kind. 
They are split lengthwise and fried the same as pork 
chops. 

FRIED SALT PORK, WITH CREAM GRAVY. 

Cut the slices thin, and place them in cold water. 
After they have soaked an hour, drain well and dry 



1 88 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

them on a napkin. Heat the frying-pan very hot. Place 
half a cupful of flour on a plate, and, dipping each piece 
of meat in it, fry until crisp. Drain off all but two table- 
spoonfuls of the fat and stir two table-spoonfuls of 
flour into that remaining in the pan. Cook for two 
minutes, stirring well ; then draw the pan back on the 
range, and slowly add a pint of milk. When the gravy 
is smooth and well mixed together, cook only a min- 
ute, and add pepper, and salt also if needed. Turn the 
gravy over the meat, and serve. This is the most deli- 
cious way of preparing salt pork and makes a very satis- 
factory breakfast dish. 

SOUSE, OR pigs' feet. 

Clean the feet carefully, and pour over them hot water 
sufficient to cover. Boil slowly until the meat will sepa- 
rate from the bones ; then take them up carefully on a 
skimmer, and place them in a stone jar, taking out the 
largest bones. Set the water aside in a cool place to be 
used later. 

Allow a quart of strong vinegar to four good-sized 
feet and uppers (which are always sold with the feet). 
Place the vinegar on the fire, adding 

Four bay-leaves. 

One table-spoonful of whole cloves. 
One table-spoonful of broken cinnamon. 
One-quarter of a tea-cupful of salt. 
Two tea-spoonfuls of pepper. 
One-half an onion, cut in eighths. 
One blade of mace. 

Steep all these slowly in the vinegar for forty-five min- 
utes, being careful that the vinegar does not boil rapidly 



MEATS. 189 

at any time. Remove from the water in which the feet 
were boiled all the fat, which by this time will have 
formed in a cake on the top, and save it for cooking 
purposes. Place a quart of the water in the vinegar, 
unless the latter is not very strong, in which case less 
water must be added, so that the vinegar will not become 
too much diluted. Strain the liquid through a sieve to 
remove the spice, etc., and pour it over the meat in the 
jar, helping it through the meat with a knife and fork, 
until the whole is thoroughly mixed together. Set the 
jar in a cold place for two days, when the souse will be 
ready for use. This preparation is particularly nice for a 
home luncheon or tea and should be a thick, jelly-like 
mass when properly prepared. 

pigs' feet, fried. 

Split the feet through the middle lengthwise, and boil 
them until tender, but not so much that the meat will 
separate from the bones. After draining well, dip 
each piece in beaten ^^g and then in rolled cracker- 
crumbs seasoned with salt and pepper, and fry in a hot 
frying-pan, using plenty of fat. Drain each piece thor- 
oughly so there will not be a drop of fat on the serving 
dish when sent to table. 

head-cheese. 

This is generally made of the head, ears and tongue, 
but the head alone may be used, if desired. Clean the 
meat very carefully, this part of the work being most par- 
ticular and not to be hurried. Boil the meat and bones 
in salted water until the former is very tender. Skim out 
the head, place it in a colander to drain, and remove all 



190 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

the bones with a knife. Cut the ears rather fine, and 
place them with the head meat. Season the whole with 
salt, pepper, sage, sweet marjoram and any other herbs 
that may be available, adding a little powdered cloves. 
Mix the mass well together, taste to see if properly 
seasoned, and pack it tightly in a bowl, interspersing the 
layers of meat with slices of the boiled tongue. Press 
the meat into a compact shape, and cov4r it with a plate 
upon which is placed a sufficiently heavy weight. The 
head-cheese will be ready to use in two or three days. 
Cut it in thin slices, and serve with vinegar, and mustard 
if liked ; or it may be cut in slices and fried th'e same as 
pig's feet, being first dipped in egg and cracker-crumbs. 
The latter mode of preparing produces a very pleasant 
breakfast dish. 

SCRAPPLE. 

Many cities or parts of the country have some particu- 
lar dish for which they are noted, and. that peculiar to 
Philadelphia is known as "scrapple," w^hich is brought to 
market in large quantities and sold most reasonably. It 
is made in this way : Scrape and thoroughly clean a 
hog's head ; then split it, and take out the eyes and 
brain. The butcher will, of course, do this when 
directed. Clean the ears also, and scrape and scald them 
well. Put all on to boil in plenty of cold water, and sim- 
mer gently for four hours, or until the bones will easily 
slip from the meat. Lift out the meat and bones into a 
colander, remove the bones, and chop the meat fine. 
Skim off every particle of grease from the water in which 
the meat was boiled, and return the chopped meat to the 
kettle and water. Season highly with pepper and salt 



MEATS. 191 

and such powdered herbs as may be preferred. Now 
take a large wooden spoon or paddle and stir constantly, 
meanwhile adding enough corn meal and buckwheat flour, 
in equal quantities, to make a soft mush. Cook slowly 
one hour, stirring frequently, as the mush will scorch 
easily. Pour the mixture into dishes and keep it in a cool 
place, slicing it as needed. Sometimes part or all of 
wheat middlings is used in place of the corn meal and 
buckwheat flour, and again corn meal or buckwheat 
flour alone is used. 

TO COOK SCRAPPLE. 

Cut it into rather thin slices, dip each slice in flour, 
and fry until a flne brown. Drain well before serving. 

PORK SAUSAGE. 

Six pounds of lean fresh pork. 
Three pounds of fat fresh pork. 
Twelve tea-spoonfuls of powdered sage. 
Six tea-spoonfuls of black pepper. 
Six tea-spoonfuls of salt. 
Two tea-spoonfuls of powdered mace. 
Two tea-spoonfuls of powdered cloves. 
One grated nutmeg. 

Grind the meat in a sausage mill. Most butchers have 
mills of this kind find will do the work at small cost. 
Mix the seasoning thoroughly with the meat, using the 
hands for mixing. The spices need not be added, if not 
liked ; but they help to preserve the meat. If the sausage 
is for immediate use, they may be omitted. A safe rule 
to follow in seasoning a small quantity of sausage meat is 
to allow to each pound the following : 



192 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

One table-spoonful of salt. 
One tea-spoonful of sifted sage. 
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper. 

There are many ways of putting away sausage meat. 
If it is to be kept a long time, pack it in a stone jar, and 
pour melted lard on top ; the meat will keep a very long 
time if sealed in this way, many country housekeepers 
preserving it thus from autumn until the following 
summer. The meat may also be kept in cotton bags. 
Use strong cotton for the bags, making each one a yard 
long and four inches wide. Dip them in strong salt and 
water, and let them dry before filling. Crowd the meat 
closely into the bags, pressing it in with a pestle or a 
potato masher. When wanted for use, turn the end of 
the bag back, cut off the meat in half-inch slices, and fry 
brown. Sausage is ordinarily put away in "casings" 
made from the intestines. 

TO CLEAN THE "CASINGS." 

Empty them, turn them inside out and wash thor- 
oughly ; then let them soak in salted water for two days. 
Wash them again, cut into convenient lengths, and scrape 
them on a board with a blunt knife, first on one side, 
then on the other. When well scraped, wash them again, 
tie up one end of each length, insert a quill in the other 
end, and fill them with air by blowing through the quills. 
If white and clear, they are clean, but if any thick spots 
appear, they must be scraped again. Throw the casings 
into cold, salted water until wanted. 

TO COOK SAUSAGE. 

When cooking sausage in casings, prick the skins with 
a sharp steel fork to prevent their bursting. If cooking 



MEATS. 193 

it in bulk, shape the sausage into balls with the hands. 
Place it in a hot frying-pan, and fry until brown, adding 
no fat, as there will generally be plenty in the meat. Re- 
move the sausage, when done, to a platter, add a table- 
spoonful of dry flour to the fat in the pan, and cook one 
minute, stirring all the time ; then gradually add a cup- 
ful of milk, still stirring. When the gravy is boiling and 
is of a creamy consistency, add salt and pepper to taste, 
pour the gravy over the sausage, and serve. 

TO SALT DOWN OR PICKLE PORK. 

The hams, shoulders, chines and middlings are the 
parts of the pig usually pickled. This should be done as 
soon as possible after the meat is cold, and should not be 
delayed more than twenty-four hours at the very longest. 
The following is the proportion of pickle allowed to fifty 
pounds of pork : 

Two and a-half pounds of brown sugar. 
Two ounces of saltpetre. 
Nine gallons of water. 
Salt to make a brine. 

Mix the sugar and saltpetre with the water, and grad- 
ually add Liverpool salt until the brine will float an egg. 
Boil for ten minutes, skim off all the scum that rises, and 
set aside to cool. Cover the bottom of the packing bar- 
rel with coarse salt, and pack the pork closely in it, with 
the rind next to the sides of the barrel, and covering each 
layer with salt. When all the pork has been packed, 
pour the cold brine over it, place a round board cut a lit- 
tle smaller than the barrel on top of the meat, and upon 
it lay a heavy weight to keep it beneath the surface. If 
13 



194 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

at any time the brine froths or looks reel, it should be 
turned oH, scalded again and more salt added ; as soon 
as cold it should be returned to the meat. 

TO CURE HAMS. 

The hams may be pickled with the rest of the pork, as 
above directed ; and after remaining in the brine sixteen 
days, should be removed and washed clean of salt. 
They are then ready to be smoked. Another method of 
curing ham is to allow to fifty pounds of meat 

Two pounds of fine salt. 

One ounce of powdered saltpetre. 

Two ounces of brown sugar. 

Place the meat on a board or table in the cellar, with 
the skin side down. Mix the salt, sugar and saltpetre 
well together, and rub each ham all over with this mix- 
ture, putting a little of it in the hock end around the 
bone. Rub until the meat will absorb no more. Should 
there be any of the mixture left, use it on the meat at the 
end of a week, rubbing it in as before. Let the hams re- 
main in this condition for sixteen days, when they are 
ready to be smoked. 

TO SMOKE HAMS. 

Wet the hams with clean water, and dip them, while 
wet, in dry bran, forming as thick a coat as possible over 
the meat. Sawdust is sometimes used, but bran is much 
to be preferred. The object of thus using the bran is to 
form a crust that will prevent the evaporation of the 
juices. Hang the hams in the smoke-house, with the 
hock end down. Keep up a good smoke continually, 



MEATS. 195 

smothering the fire with sawdust, and taking care that 
the house does not become hot at any time. Meat 
should be smoked at least four weeks, but it is seldom 
allowed to hang as long as that. Should it be desired to 
keep the hams until warm weather, there are many ways 
in which they may be put away. They are sometimes 
simply hung on hooks in a cool place, but it is undoubt- 
edly much better to encase them in covers, as these are 
an effectual protection against insects. Dust cayenne 
pepper around the bones, and wrap the hams closely in 
brown paper and then with coarse muslin shaped to fit 
them exactly, stitching the muslin tightly to position. 
Whitewash the muslin cloth, and hang the hams in a cool, 
dark, dry place. 

TO BOIL A HAM. 

Wash the ham well, and, if very salt, soak it over 
night in clear water. Ascertain its weight, and allow 
fifteen minutes of cooking to every pound. Place the 
ham in a large kettle on the stove, cover it with cold 
water, and when the water boils, set the kettle back 
where the ham will gently simmer. W^hen it has boiled 
in this way for one hour, turn off the water and add fresh 
boiling water. By thus changing the water the rank 
taste of the smoke is destroyed. For every ten pounds 
of meat add half a cupful of sugar to the second w^ater, 
and then boil the remainder of the time required. WHien 
done, remove the ham, but do not skin it until cold, nor 
cut it until it has been cooked twenty-four hours, unless 
it is to be eaten hot ; in that case it should be skinned as 
soon as taken from the water, and all the black rind and 
discolored portions removed. In cooking half a ham, 



1 96 THE FA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

or one that has been cut, the juices will be better 
retamed if the cut side is kept upward in the kettle. 
This may be easily done by propping up the meat with 
a clean stone placed on each side. 

There are many ways of finishing boiled hams that are 
to be served whole. The method most commonly pur- 
sued is to sprinkle grated bread-crumbs over the ham and 
brown them in a quick oven. Another desirable mode is 
to brush the ham with beaten egg, cover it with bread- 
crumbs and brown nicely; or the ham, after being 
skinned, may be dusted with black pepper sifted on in 
circles. The latter plan produces an attractive looking 
dish. One thing must, however, be borne in mind — that 
no matter how well a ham is cooked, it will prove an utter 
failure if not cut in thin slices for serving. 

FRIED HAM, WITH CREAlVf GRAVY. 

Properly cured ham will not need freshening ; but 
should the ham be too salt, place it in a frying-pan, cover 
with cold water, and set the pan on the range in a mild 
heat; and when the steam commences to rise, pour off 
the water, and add more cold w^ater. As soon as this 
water steams lift out the slice of meat and drain it well 
before frying. Two waters should always be sufficient to 
freshen the saltest piece of ham. Heat the pan for frying, 
and when very hot, cook the meat without the- addition 
of fat, unless the ham is exceptionally lean, when a 
spoonful of pork drippings should be used. When the 
ham is nicely browned, place it on a platter, and add a 
cupful of milk to the fat in the pan. When this boils, 
thicken it to a cream with a table-spoonful of flour wet 
to a smooth paste in a little milk, adding pepper to sea- 



MEATS. 197 

son ; and turn the gravy over the ham. A more simple 
gravy is made by adding a little hot water to the fat, etc., 
in the pan and pouring this over the meat. 

HAM SANDWICHES. 

Chop fine half a pound of ham, and season with a 
table-spoonful of olive oil, a table-spoonful of lemon 
juice and a little pepper and made mustard. Butter the 
bread on the loaf before cutting it ; cut the slices thinly, 
and spread the ham between them. Or the ham may be 
cut very thin, spread with a light coat of mustard and 
laid between thin slices of buttered bread. 

PORK AND BEANS, 

OR BOSTON BAKED BEANS, NO. I. 

Much of the excellence of this dish depends upon the 
kind of bean-pot used. It should be of earthenware, with 
a narrow mouth and bulging sides. Soak a quart of 
pea beans in cold water over night ; in the morning place 
them in fresh water, and simmer gently until soft enough 
to pierce with a pin, being careful that they do not 
boil long enough to break. If desired, a small onion 
may be boiled with the beans. When they are soft, turn 
them into a colander, pour cold water through them, and 
place them, when well drained, in the bean-pot. Pour 
boiling water over a-quarter of a pound of salt pork that 
is part fat and part lean. Scrape the rind until white, 
cut it in half-inch strips, and bury ■ the meat in the 
beans, leaving only the rind exposed. Mix together a 
tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of dry mustard and 
a-fourth of a cupful of molasses. Place these in a cup, 
fill the cup with hot water, stir until well mixed, and pour 



1 9 8 THE PA TTERN CO OK-B O OK. 

the liquid over tlie beans and pork. Add enough water 
to cover the beans, and bake eight hours, adding water 
to keep them covered, until the last hour, when the pork 
should be raised to the surface to crisp. 

If pork is disliked, it may be omitted ; more salt must 
then be used, together with a third of a cupful of butter ; 
or half a pound of fat and lean corned beef may be 
substituted. 

BOSTON BAKED BEANS, NO. 2. 

This recipe has been used most successfully for many 
years, and the work is quickly done. 

Do not soak the beans over night. Place a quart of 
pea beans over the fire, cover them with cold water, 
and slowly bring the water to a boil ; then set the kettle 
where the beans will just bubble, but will at no time boil 
hard. When they have cooked in this way for fifteen 
minutes, add a four-inch square of salt pork to the kettle, 
and simmer gently with the beans until they may be 
pierced with a pin, but are not at all broken ; then turn 
the beans into a colander to drain. Place together in a 
coffee-cup two large table-spoonfuls of molasses, a tea- 
spoonful of salt and a-fourth of a tea-spoonful of pepper, 
and fill the cup \yith some of the hot water in which the 
beans were boiled. Place the. beans in the bean-pot, turn 
over them the cupful of seasoning, and stir well until 
thoroughly mixed. Cut the rind of the pork in small 
squares, sink the meat in the beans, leaving only the rind 
exposed ; add more bean water until the rind is covered, 
and bake two hours, raising the pork during the last three- 
quarters of an hour, to brown and crisp the top. More 
baking may be allowed if there is time for it before serv- 



ME A TS. 1 99 

ing ; but excellent baked beans have for many years been 
prepared in this way in the writer's household, and never 
with more than two hours' baking. 

BACON. 

This is cured the same as ham. It may be boiled ; or 
it may be cut in thin slices and fried or broiled crisp. It 
is also cooked with liver. 

LARD. 

Housekeepers who would have really fine lard should 
prepare it at home, as that purchased at the stores is 
almost invariably close and tough and good results can- 
not be expected from its use. Particularly in making 
pie-crust will poor lard assert itself, for the crust can 
never be flaky if the lard is tough. Cut the lard-fat into 
small pieces, removing all flesh and membrane. Put 
enough water in a kettle to cover the bottom, and lay in 
the fat. The water will prevent the lard burning and 
will all have evaporated by the time the lard has melted. 
Boil gently until the " scraps" settle, stirring often. 

The " leaf " produces the finest lard, and should never 
be put in with the inferior fat. 

The fat from the small intestines and the pieces not 
fit for salting should be laid in lukewarm water for 
twenty-four hours and should be melted by itself. Set it 
away to freeze, and the strong flavor will soon be gone. 
These minute directions are, of course, more especially 
intended for the benefit of country housewives. 

POULTRY AND GAME. 

The flesh of poultry and game has less red blood than 
the flesh of animals and is drver and not marbled with 



200 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

fat. Game has a strong odor and flavor that is mistaken 
by many to be an indication that the meat is tainted. 
Whitefleshed game should be well cooked, while that 
which has dark flesh should be served rare. 

TO CHOOSE POULTRY AND GAME. 

The best chickens have soft, yellow feet, short, thick 
legs, smooth skin and a plump breast, the cartilage on 
the end of the breast-bone being soft and easy to bend. 
This is sometimes broken in old fowls to deceive pur- 
chasers, but this fact may easily be detected. Pin- 
feathers, as the short, young feathers are called, always 
indicate a young bird ; while long hairs invariably belong 
to the older ones. 

The bodies of capons are very plump and are larger 
in proportion than those of fowls or chickens ; and the 
meat is of fine flavor. Old fowls have long, thin necks, 
the feet have sharp scales, and the flesh is of a purplish hue. 

The best turkeys have smooth, black legs, soft spurs 
and white flesh. 

Geese and ducks should not be more than a year old ; 
they should have soft, yellow feet and tender wings and 
be thick and hard on the breast, and the wind-pipe should 
break easily when pressed with thumb and finger. Wild 
ducks have feet of a reddish hue. 

Young pigeons have light-red flesh on the breast and 
full, flesh-colored legs. Old pigeons are thin and very 
dark on the breast. Wild pigeons are cheap, but are apt 
to be very dry. Squabs are the young of the tame 
pigeon. 

Grouse, partridge and quail should have full, heavy 
breasts, dark bills and yellowish legs. 



MEATS, 2oi 

Young rabbits have smooth, sharp claws, tender ears 
and paws and short necks. 

Venison should be dark-red, with some white fat. 

TO DRESS POULTRY. 

In some markets poultry is sold ready dressed, in 
others it is picked but not drawn, while in still other 
places the poultry may be bought alive. The best and 
quickest way of killing poultry is by cutting the throat, 
but some cut the head entirely off. In either case, the 
fowl should at once be hung by the feet, as death then 
follows more quickly and the body is more perfectly 
emptied of blood. Begin at once to strip off the feathers. 
Do not make the mistake of scalding any bird. If all 
country women knew that they would receive at least 
twenty-five per cent, more for " dry picked " poultry (as 
that picked unscalded is called), the reckless and indis- 
criminate use of hot water for this purpose would cease. 
Young chickens are completely spoiled by being thus par- 
boiled ; and while the injury to the meat is not so great 
in older birds, the flavor is much changed. In picking, 
take a few feathers in the hand and give them a quick 
jerk toward the tail. Do not pull the feathers toward the 
head, as the skin is much more easily torn by drawing 
them in this direction. When all feathers and pin feath- 
ers have been removed, singe the bird by holding the 
head and passing the body backward and forward over a 
blazing paper, turning both sides to the blaze, and taking 
care not to scorch the skin. 

TO CLEAN POULTRY. 

Cut off the head, and tiie feet at the first joint. Cut 
the skin on the back of the neck the entire length of the 



202 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

body; turn the skin over on the breast, stripping it from 
the neck ; and cut off the neck-bone close to the body. 
No good cook will roast poultry without first removing 
the bony neck, for it is an unsightly piece, and there is 
little if anything on it to eat. It may, however, be used 
when stewing chicken, but it should never be served at 
table. 

Carefully remove the crop from the breast. This is a 
thin membrane — often so thin and soft, in fact, that it is 
hardly perceptible, so that special care is required to find 
and remove it. When the crop is all taken out, insert 
the forefinger m the throat, and break the ligaments that 
Iiold the internal organs to the breast-bone. Make an in- 
cision near the vent, and work the hand slowly around, 
not through, the organs, keeping the fingers close to the 
breast-bone until they can reach no farther, and loosen- 
ing the organs on each side down toward the back. 
The gall-bladder lies on the left side, and if the fingers 
be kept up and everything loosened before drawing out, 
there will be no danger of its breaking. Gently draw out 
all the organs at once. It may be that the lights and a 
piece of the wind-pipe will not come out with the rest. 
The lights will be found embedded in the ribs, being of 
a soft, spongy, pinkish substance. Look in the throat for 
the wind-pipe. Remove the oil-sac from the top of the 
tail. One of the best authorities says it is best not to 
wash a bird of any kind, either outside or inside, unless 
some accident has happened in removing the entrails; 
it should be wiped with a very damp cloth. Other 
authorities, equally good, advise washing very quickly, 
not allowing the bird to remain in the water a moment. 
All the best cooks agree that vi^ater ruins the sweetness 



ME A TS. 203 

and detracts much from the flavor of poultry and game 
and, if needed at all, should be used very sparingly. 
Cut the liver away from the gall-bag, taking care not to 
break the gall. Cut open the heart to remove the blood, 
or else pinch it gently to empty it. Cut carefully in one 
of the thick ends of the gizzard, cutting only to the lining 
and not into it. Draw off the gizzard, leaving the lining 
that contains the sand unbroken. Wash these pieces and 
set them away for use. 

Turkeys, geese, ducks, pigeons, pheasants and all birds 
are cleaned in the same way. Should the fowl, when 
drawn, have a bad odor, wash it in cold water in which 
has been dissolved half a tea-spoonful of soda. This will 
help to restore the meat, but such birds are never satis- 
factory. Poultry when bought undrawn is very sure to 
have a strong smell. If housekeepers everywhere would 
maintain a crusade against the sale of undrawn poultry in 
the markets or by farmers, they would work a most 
wholesome hygienic reform. It is a vicious practice — an 
abuse, in fact, that people have endured, like many other 
abuses, because there is no remedy except in concerted 
action. It is impossible to keep undrawn poultry even a 
few hours without putrefaction setting in, taking place 
from the effect of the gases arising from the undigested 
food in the crop and intestines. The longer it is kept, 
the more of the poison goes into the flesh ; and in the 
majority of cases poultry that reaches the kitchen from 
the market is actually unfit for food. Housekeepers 
could well afford to pay a larger price to have the poultry 
dressed immediately upon being killed, since much is 
now paid for that is thrown away, besides having left a 
mass of poisoned flesh. It is urged that some people 



204 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

prefer the flavor of undressed poultry, but that fact only 
makes the matter the more alarming since it indicates 
that we are cultivating a taste for putrid meat. 

ROAST TURKEY, WITH GIBLET GRAVY. 

Singe and clean as directed. Make any of the stuffings, 
the recipes of which are given on pages 205 and 206. 
Work the hand gently under the skin on the breast, to lift 
the skin from the flesh, working through the cut made by 
taking out the neck, and taking care not to break the skin. 
Put a thin layer of dressing between the skin and flesh ; 
and place the rest of the stuffing lightly in the body, 
being careful not to pack it at all. When the breast is 
stuffed, draw the skin of the neck over on the back and 
fasten it to the back with a skewer. Turn the tips of 
the wings under the back, and fasten them in that posi- 
tion with a skewer, running it through the wings and 
body. Make an incision in the skin near the opening 
where the entrails have beeit taken out, and insert the 
" drum-sticks " in the holes, tying them together after 
they are so placed. Sew up the vent where the stuffing 
was put in. Moisten the skin of the bird with a little 
water, and sprinkle it with salt, pepper and flour. The 
moisture helps to retain the seasoning on the meat. 
Place the turkey in a dripping-pan in the oven, adding a 
very little water to the pan, and roast, allowing twenty 
minutes to a pound. After it has roasted twenty-five 
minutes, baste with the oil and water in the pan, and 
baste 'every fifteen minutes until baked enough. 
P'requent basting is the secret of success in roasting fowl. 
If the basting is done every ten minutes, it will be none 
too often, but it should be done every fifteen minutes at 



ME A TS. 



205 



the longest. Some cooks advise rubbing butter on the 
legs and breast, but it must be a very thin turkey that re- 
quires this, as there is usually quite enough fat given off 
for use in basting. When the turkey is done, place it on 
a platter, remove the strings and skewers, and place it in 
the oven while the gravy is being prepared. 

TO MAKE GIBLET GRAVY. 

Place the giblets (the liver, heart and gizzard) and the 
neck that has been cut off, in a sauce-pan, and cover theiTi 
with cold water. Simmer slowly, and when tender re- 
move the neck and chop the giblets fine, saving the water 
in which they were cooked. When the turkey is lifted 
from the pan, pour off all but three small table-spoonfuls 
of the oil, place the pan on the top of the stove, and when 
the gravy boils, stir in two table-spoonfuls of flour. Cook 
two minutes and add the water in which the giblets were 
cooked, pouring it in gradually so as not to thin the gravy 
too much. If the gravy seems too thick, add also a 
little hot water. Put in lastly the chopped giblets, and 
season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve in a gravy 
dish. 

STUFFING FOR TURKEY — NO. I. 

Three cupfuls of grated stale bread. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

One table-spoonful of chopped parsley. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of salt. 

One-half tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One tea-spoonful of chopped onion. 

• Rub the butter into the crumbs, and let them stand at 
least an hour, when the rest of the seasoning may be 
added. This makes a crumby stuffing. 



2o6 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

STUFFING FOR TURKEY NO. 2. 

One quart of grated bread. 

One cupful of milk. 

One tea-spoonful of chopped parsley. 

One tea-spoonful of chopped onion. 

One-half tea-spoonful of summer savory. 

One table-spoonful of salt. 

Three table-spoonfuls of butter. 

Two eggs. 

One-half tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One-half tea-spoonful of thyme. 

Pour the milk on the crumbs, and cover tightly for an 
hour ; then add the rest of the ingredients, omitting the 
onion, if objectionable. 

OYSTER STUFFING. 

Two cupfuls of bread-crumbs. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One table-spoonful of chopped parsley. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of salt. 

One-half tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Twenty-five oysters. 

Rub the butter into the crumbs, add the seasoning, and 
put in the oysters last, leaving them whole. 

CRANBERRY SAUCE, FOR ROAST TURKEY. 

One quart of cranberries. 
One pint of water. 
One pint of sugar. 

Pick over and wash the berries, place them in a stew- 
pan with the water and sugar, and cook slowly for twenty 
minutes. Rinse a mould with cold water, pour in the 
stewed berries, and set them away to cool. When 



ME A TS. 207 

wanted for serving, turn out upon a flat dish, cut off a 
thick slice and send to the table. 

ROAST TURKEY, WITH CHESTNUT STUFFING. 

Draw and clean the turkey as previously directed. 
Shell and blanch fifty large French chestnuts, and boil 
them half an hour in water enough to cover. Drain off 
the water, and add to the nuts three table-spoonfuls of 
butter, a table-spoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful 
of pepper. Mix well, and place them in the turkey. 
Truss and roast the fowl as directed in the preceding 
recipe. When done, serve with 

CHESTNUT SAUCE. 

Thirty French chestnuts. 

One pint of water. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One table-spoonful of flour. 

Shell and blanch the nuts, boil until tender, drain 
thoroughly, and mash them wdth a potato masher. Add 
the water a little at a time, rub the mixture through a 
sieve, and cook gently in a sauce-pan for half an hour. 
Place the butter in a frying-pan, and when hot, add the 
flour. Cook until the flour is of a dark-brown color, 
stirring constantly ; then add the chestnut mixture, cook 
for three or four minutes, and serve in a gravy-boat. 

BOILED TURKEY, WITH CELERY SAUCE. 

If a turkey dressed in this way is not well managed it 
will be quite tasteless. It should be well trussed and 



208 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

tied, or the legs and wings will be sadly disarranged dur- 
ing the process of boiling. When the turkey has been 
cleaned, stuff it with the following 

CELERY STUFFING. 

One-half head of celery. 

One quart of bread-crumbs. 

Two eggs. 

Two table-spoonfuls of salt. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

One-half tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Chop the celery fine, and add the other ingredients 
after rubbing the butter into the crumbs ; fill the turkey 
the same as directed for a roast turkey, putting a little of 
the stuffing in the breast also ; and sew it up very se- 
curely. Wring a large square of cotton cloth out of cold 
water, and dredge the cloth thickly with flour. Pin the 
turkey in this cloth, and plunge it in boiling water. 
Allow twenty minutes boiling to a pound ; boil rapidly 
the first fifteen minutes, and then moderate the boiling 
somewhat, but never stop it entirely. Place the turkey, 
when done, on a platter, remove the cloth and skewers, 
drain well, and serve with 

CELERY SAUCE. 

One head of celery. 

One pint of milk. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Two table-spoonfuls of flour. 

Four table-spoonfuls of butter. 

Cut the celery fine, and place it in a sauce-pan with just 
enough water to cover. Cover the pan, and simmer 



MEA TS. 209 

gently. When it has boiled an hour, mix the butter and 
fiour together, and add them to the celery, also adding 
the milk, salt and pepper. Boil two minutes, stirring all 
the time, and serve in a gravy-boat. 

BRAISED TURKEY. 

This is a very satisfactory way of cooking an old turkey 
that is unfit for roasting or boiling. Make a stuffing as 
for roast turkey, stuiif the body and breast, and truss. 
Spread thin slices of salt pork over the breast and legs, 
and cover the turkey with a strong sheet of buttered 
paper, fastening the paper on by passing a string around 
the body. Spread in a braising-pan large enough to hold 
the turkey the following : 



One-quarter pound of salt pork, sliced. 
One-quarter pint of chopped celery. 
One-quarter pint of chopped carrot. 
One-quarter pint of chopped onion. 
One-quarter pint of chopped turnip. 



Lay the turkey on this mixture, with the breast up, 
cover the pan tightly, and place in a moderate oven. 
At the end of thirty minutes add a quart of water, or 
stock, if at hand, and baste the turkey every fifteen min- 
utes with the gravy this will make, sprinkling once with 
salt and pepper. Allow twenty-five minutes to the pound. 
During the last half-hour take the cover from the pan, re- 
move the paper and pork from the turkey, and thus per- 
mit the meat to brown slightly. When done, lift the 
turkey from the pan, untruss it, and lay it on a large plat- 
ter. Strain off the gravy, and use it for the 
14 



2 I O THE FA TTERN CO OK-B O OK. 

MUSHROOM SAUCE. 

One pint of strained gravy. 
I One-quarter pound of fresh mushrooms, oi 
( Three-quarters can of canned mushrooms. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of j^epper. 

One-half of a baked sour apple. 

Three table-spoonfuls of butter. 

Two and a-half table-spoonfuls of flour. 

One-half table-spoonful of salt. 

A slight grating of nutmeg. 

Place the butler in a stew-pan, and when hot and 
browning, add the flour, and stir well until of a dark- 
brown. Draw the pan back to a cool place, and stir the 
butter until slightly cooled ; then add the gravy, and stir 
until it boils. Now add the seasoning, the baked apple 
and half the mushrooms, and set the sauce where it will 
gently bubble for an hour. At the end of this time skim 
off the oil that will have arisen to the top, and strain the 
sauce into another pan, adding the remainder of the 
mushrooms and three table-spoonfuls more of the gravy 
left from braising the turkey. If fresh mushrooms are 
used, they should be pared, cut in small pieces, and sim- 
mered ten minutes in the sauce before serving. When 
canned mushrooms are used, they should be cooked 
whole and simmered but five minutes. 

TO " WARM OVER " TURKEY. 

Cut the drum-sticks and wings from the body, and take 
off all the meat remaining on the breast. Also use any 
pieces that may have remained on the platter when the 
turkey was first carved. Disjoint the back piece, called 
the rump, splitting it down the back and cutting each 
])iece in two, thus making four pieces of the back. Place 



MEA TS. 2 I I 

all these pieces in a kettle, add three table-spoonfuls of 
the stuffing and any gravy that may have been left from 
the roast. Add water to half the height of the turkey in 
the kettle, cover the kettle tightly, and set it in a moder- 
ate heat. Cook at least forty-five minutes, stirring often, 
and adding more water if it should seem necessary : 
there should be just enough at the last to keep the meat 
from sticking to the kettle. Season with salt and pepper, 
turn on a platter, and serve. It is a mistake to cut the 
meat from the bones, as the result is very unsatisfactory. 
The turkey should stew so slowly that it will only be 
thoroughly warmed, and it should in no case fall from the 
bones. The large body part of the turkey is never used, 
except for soup. 

A FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN. 

Draw and singe the chicken as directed, and cut it into 
pieces. This is done as follows : Cut through the loose 
skin between the legs and the body, bend the legs over, 
and cut them oft" at the joint ; also cut the upper leg from 
the lower leg at their joining. Cut off the neck and 
wings where they join the body, always cutting at the 
joints. Lay the chicken on its breast, with the tail 
toward you. Cut a slice off the breast reaching into the 
large bone of the body, thus cutting out the " happy 
thought " or wish-bone. Cut to the back through the in- 
cision made in taking out the entrails, and disjoint the 
back, cutting this piece, which contains the rump, again 
across the back, making two pieces of it. Cut the ribs 
through the entire length of the piece that will be left; 
also cut the length of the bird on the other side from the 
tieck to the end of the breast-bone, and cut these large 



2 I 2 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

pieces again into two parts. In cutting a bird or rabbit 
or any meat of the kind to be fricasseed, divide it at the 
joints as far as possible, and never chop a bone, as that 
crushes it. 

Place the chicken in a kettle, cover it with boiling 
water, and gently simmer until tender. An old fowl will 
need to be cooked at least two hours, but a tender one 
will be done in half that time. Remove the cover during 
the last half hour, so that the gravy in the kettle may re- 
duce somewhat. There should be about a pint and 
a-half when done ; and if it is already reduced to this 
measurement at the beginning of the last half hour, keep 
the cover on that it may not boil away any more. Sea- 
son with salt and pepper, and add a little butter also if 
the chicken was lacking in fat; this, however, will rarely 
be necessary. Have ready some nicely toasted bread 
and lay it on a platter. Lift the chicken from the kettle 
with a long-handled skimmer and lay it on the toast. Set 
the gravy back where it will not boil, and with a spoon 
dip off all the fat that can be skimmed from the top. 
Then add a cupful of milk, and set the gravy again to 
heat. When it boils, stir in two and a-half table-spoon- 
fuls of flour wet to a smooth paste with a little cold milk, 
and boil two minutes, stirring constantly; season with 
more salt and pepper if necessary. The gravy should be 
as thick as cream ; and if it is not, stir in more flour. It 
is always difficult to give the precise amount of thickening 
needed w]ien the exact quantity to be thickened is not 
known. Pour the gravy over the chicken and toast, and 
serve at once. This is a very satisfactory way of cooking 
old, tough fowl ; indeed, there is no other, unless, per- 
haps, it be that contained in the following recipe. 



MEATS. 213 

BRAISED CHICKEN. 

Prepare the same as for braised turkey, leaving out the 
mushrooms, and thickening the gravy poured from the 
braising pan. A tender chicken is rarely if ever dressed 
in this way, only old fowls being used. 

BROWN FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN. 

Cut in pieces as directed for fricassee of chicken. 
Place a quarter of a pound of salt pork or two ounces of 
butter in a frying-pan, and when hot, put in the chicken, 
leaving plenty of room to turn the meat ; and cook until 
eadi piece is of a rich brown tint. Add two table-spoon- 
fuls of flour, stir well, and when it has cooked two 
minutes, add a pint of boiling water. When the gravy 
is smooth and boiling, season with salt and pepper, 
cover the pan, and simmer gently until the chicken is 
tender; then add a tea-spoonful of onion juice, if not 
objectionable, and dish at once. The gravy, will be 
found thick enough, and if the pan has a tight cover it 
will not be diminished even after a long cooking. 

WHITE FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN. 

Cut the chicken in pieces as directed, cover with boil- 
ing water in the kettle, and simmer slowly until tender, 
leaving the cover half off to reduce the gravy. There 
should be only just enough in the kettle at the last to keep 
the meat from burning. Season with salt and pepper, 
lift out the chicken, and place on a platter upon toasted 
bread. Make the following sauce or gravy, and pour it 
over the chicken and toast : 



2 1 4 THE PA TTEKN CO OK-B O OK. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 
Two table-spoonfuls of flour. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 
One pint of milk. 
Two eggs (yolks only). 

Heat the butter in a frying-pan, stir in the flour, and 
cook slowly two or three minutes, stirring constantly, but 
taking care not to burn the flour. Draw the pan away 
from the heat, and gradually add the milk. When well 
mixed in, turn all into the kettle from which the chicken 
was taken, and set in a hot place to boil, adding salt and 
pepper, if needed. Let the gravy boil two or three min- 
utes, remove it from the fire, add the beaten yolks, and 
pour it at once over the chicken. Sprinkle a tjable-spoon- 
ful of finely chopped parsley over the top of the chicken 
just before serving. 

• 

ROAST CHICKEN, WITH GIBLET SAUCE. 

Prepare this the same as roast turkey, using but half 
the amount of stuffing, and allowing but fifteen minutes 
cooking to a pound. 

Baste well every ten minutes, else the chicken will be 
dry and disappointing. Chickens may be filled with 
chestnut stuffing the same as turkeys. 

- FRIED SPRING CHICKEN (SOUTHERN STYLE). 

The colored cooks of the South have perhaps, discov- 
ered the most delicious way of cooking young chickens, 
and the method is very simple. 

Cut the small chickens in four or six pieces, dip each 
piece hastily in cold water, then sprinkle with salt and 
pepper, and roll the pieces in plent}''^f flour. Have some 



MEATS. 215 

sweet lard heated very hot in a frying-pan, and fry "the 
chicken until each piece is of a rich brown hue on both 
sides. Take up, drain well, and arrange the pieces on a 
warm platter, setting the dish in a hot place to keep the 
meat from cooling while the gravy is being made. Pour 
out of the pan all but a table-spoonful of.the oil, and stir 
into the pan a cupful of milk. When the liquid is hot and 
well stirred, thicken to a rich cream with a table-spoonful 
of flour rubbed smooth in a table-spoonful of butter. 
Boil two or three minutes, stirring constantly, season with 
salt and pepper, and pour the gravy over the chicken. ^ 
little chopped parsley is often added to the gravy. But- 
ter, if here used in place of lard, is difficult to manage, as 
it burns so easily; lard is decidedly to be preferred for 
this purpose. Fried chicken is a standard dish in the Old 
Dominion and is nowhere prepared in such perfection. 

FRIED CHICKEN, NO. 2. 

Cut the chicken in pieces, and season with salt and 
pepper. Dip each piece in beaten egg, then in cracker- 
crumbs, and fry brown in hot lard. ' Throw a few sprigs 
of parsley into the fat when all the chicken has been 
fried, and let them remain in lon^ enough to become 
crisp but not too dry. Strew them over the chicken, and 
serve. 

SMOTHERED CHICKEN. 

This is one of the most delicious ways of cooking 
chickens. Clean, take off the neck, and split the chicken 
down the back, wiping it with a damp towel. Season 
inside and out with salt and pepper, and dredge on all 
sides with flour. Lay the chicken, wth the inside down, 



2 1 6 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

in a small baking tin, adding a cupful of water. The pan 
should be but little larger than the chicken ; otherwise the 
gravy will be too quickly evaporated. Cook slowly for 
one hour, basting every ten minutes after the first twenty 
minutes cooking. Should the chicken be decidedly lack- 
ing in fat, add a small table-spoonful of butter. There 
will be plenty of gravy in the pan with which to baste if 
the pan is small. When done, place the chicken on a hot 
platter, and thicken the gravy in the pan with a little flour, 
after adding another half cupful of water. Should the 
chicken be quite fat, remove all but a table-spoonful of 
the oil from the pan before making the gravy. Season 
with salt and pepper to taste, pour the gravy over the 
chicken, and serve at once. 

Any small birds may be dressed in this way, with the 
most satisfactory results, the secret of success in this kind 
of roasting lying in very frequent basting and in not 
having too hot an oven. 



BROILED CHICKEN. 

Only tender chickens or those that may surely be 
made tender are ever cooked by broiling. Clean and 
singe the chickens as directed, picking out all pin-feathers. 
Split each chicken down the back, and wipe with a damp 
towel. Even when you are quite certain the chickens are 
tender, it is wise to steam them before broiling. This is 
done thus : Set the dripping-pan in the oven, and nearly 
fill it with boiling water. Place two sticks across the 
pan, extending them from side to side, and upon them lay 
the chicken. Invert a tin pan over it, and, shutting 
the oven door let the chicken steam for thirty minutes. 



ME A TS. . 217 

This process relaxes the muscles and renders the joints 
supple, besides preserving the juices that would be lost in 
parboiling. Transfer the chicken from this vapor bath to 
a wire broiler, and turn the inside of the chicken to the 
fire first. Cover the broiler with a tin pan, and broil until 
the fowl is tender and brown, turning it frequently and 
being careful the fire is not too hot. The chicken will fin- 
ish cooking in half an hour. Lay it on a warmed platter, 
spread it with butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and 
serve. Some good cooks season before broiling, and in 
this case the chicken, after being sprinkled with salt and 
pepper, should be dusted all over with fiour. The salt will 
draw out the juices, but the flour will unite with them, 
forming a paste that keeps the remaining juices well in 
the chicken. This plan may be followed for broiling 
beefsteak. 



BAKED CHICKEN (CAMPING PARTY STYLE). 

Do not remove the feathers from the chicken. Take 
out the entrails and crop, making as small incisions as 
possible ; and cut out the vent. Stuff with half the 
stuffing directed for roast turkey, or if this is not con- 
venient, sew up the body securely without stuffing at 
all. Cover the chicken with wet clay, spreading it 
half an inch or even one inch thick. Bury the chicken 
in a bed of hot ashes, place coals on the top, and 
bake an hour and a-quarter, if the bird weighs two 
pounds. The feathers will peel off as ihe cake of 
clay is removed, leaving the flesh quite clean. This 
is an especially delicious dish for a hungry camping 
party. 



2 1 8 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

BOILED CHICKEN. 

Chickens are boiled the same as turkeys. In winter 
there is no better way than to boil them whole and pour 
over them a strong caper sauce when serving. The 
chickens should be stuffed, well sewed, and pinned 
in a w'et cloth that has been generously sprinkled with 
flour; they are then plunged in boiling water, which 
should not cease boiling until the chicken is done. 
Allow twenty minutes cooking to a pound. A large, 
tough chicken may be made very palatable prepared in 
this way. 

BONED CHICKEN. 

This makes an exceedingly nice course for dinner and 
is not difficult to manage. Pick and singe the chicken 
and cut off the head and feet, but do not draw it. With 
a sharp penknife slit the chicken down the back ; then, 
keeping the knife close to the bones, scrape down the 
sides and the bones will come out. Leave the drum- 
sticks and vising bones in, but break them at the joints. 
Stuff the chicken with chopped cold, cooked lamb, sea- 
soned with salt and pepper, and a tea-spoonful of 
summer savory and the juice of one lemon ; and add 
two table-spoonfuls of chopped salt pork. In stuff- 
ing, give the chicken, as far as possible, its original shape, 
and sew it up securely. Turn the ends of the wdngs 
under the back, tie or skewer them firmly, and tie the 
legs down close to the body, so that the top will present 
a plump surface to carve in slices across. Lard the 
chicken with two rows on the top. Bake until done, 
basting often, and adding water to the pan as needed. 
Allow fifteen minutes to a pound in baking. 



ME A TS. 219 

PRESSED CHICKEN. 

Clean and singe the chicken, and cut it in pieces as for 
a fricassee. Place it in a kettle with a very little water, 
cover closely, and boil very gently until the meat will fall 
from the bones. Lift the meat from the kettle with a 
skimmer, and, separating the white meat from the dark, 
scrape all the meat from the bones, leaving out the skin 
pieces. Season with salt and pepper. Place the meat in 
the dish it is to be pressed in, laying the white and dark 
meat in alternate layers, as far as possible, and adding 
from time to time a little of the broth from the kettle, to 
moisten all well. When all the meat is in the dish 
lay a plate on top of it, place a heavy weight upon the 
plate, and set away in a cool place. This makes a pretty 
dish for luncheon, the meat being sliced for serving and 
garnished with parsley. 

. TO COOK CHICKEN FOR TRAVELLING LUNCH. 

Use only a young fowl. Clean, split it down the 
back, and wipe dry. Season with salt and pepper, and 
sprinkle on a little flour. Add water to the pan, and 
bake one hour, basting frequently. Do not use any butter, 
even if the chicken should seem to be lean, for the oil 
in the meat is intensely disagreeable when the latter 
has to be eaten from the fingers. Cut in small pieces 
for the lunch. 

CREAMED CHICKEN. 

One-half pint of cream or milk. 
One pint of cooked chicken. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
One-half tea-spoonful of p^^iper. 



220 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

One-half table-spoonful of butter. 
One table-spoonful of flour. 
One table-spoonful of chopped parsley. 
Two eggs (yolks). 

Rub the butter and flour to a cream. Place the milk 
in a double boiler or in a small tin pail set in a kettle 
of hot water, and when scalding, add the flour and 
butter. Stir well, and cook three minutes. Add the 
parsley and chicken, and cook until the milk is thor- 
oughly hot again. Beat the yolks well, adding to them 
two table-spoonfuls of milk ; and pour them into the 
chicken. Cook ten minutes and serve in a border of 
potato. Mash the potatoes and heap them around the 
serving dish, placing the chicken in the hollow thus 
formed. The chicken is sometimes served in a border of 
boiled rice. 

CHICKEN CROQUETTES. 

One pint of milk or cream. 
Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 
Four table-spoonfuls of flour. 
One tea-spoonful of salt. 
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper. 
One tea-spoonful of celery salt. 

Stir the butter and flour to a paste. Heat the milk to 
boiling, and stir in the paste; add the seasoning, and 
cook three minutes, stirring all the time. When this 
sauce is ready, take it from the fire, and add 

One egg. 

Two-thirds of a pint of chicken. 
One tea-spoonful of lemon juice. 
A few drops of onion juice. 



MEATS. ' 221 

Chop the chicken quite fine, and beat the egg well 
before mixing these ingredients in. When the whole has 
been well stirred, spread the mixture on a platter to cool. 
When cold enough to handle, form it into rolls by taking 
a spoonful in the hand at a time and shaping it ; roll 
each croquette in fine bredd-crumbs or cracker dust, dip 
it in beaten e^gg, then in the dust again, and fry one 
minute in smoking hot fat, using a frying-basket if you 
have one. Drain well and serve hot. Many cooks pre- 
fer to cut the chicken meat in dice size and not chop 
it ; if this is done, use less of the sauce, else the cro- 
quettes will be difficult to shape. Mushrooms, boiled rice 
or veal may be mixed with the chicken meat. In rolling 
any kind of croquettes, if the mixture is too soft to handle 
easily, stir in fine cracker dust to stiffen it, but never add 
any uncooked material, like flour or corn starch, nor even 
the dried bread-crumbs used in rolling, as these will 
make the croquettes too stiff. 

CHICKEN PIE, NO. I. 

Clean, singe and cut up two small chickens, the same 
as for a fricassee. Place them in a kettle, and add hot 
water enough to cover. Put the cover on the kettle, and 
stew slowly until the chicken is tender, adding a little 
more water, if needed. Take the following for the 
crust : 



One quart of flour. 

One large table-spoonful of lard. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

Milk to moisten. 



222 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Stir the salt and baking powder thoroughly into the 
flour, add the lard, rubbing it well into the flour, and use 
milk enough to make a dough. Flour the bakmg-board, 
and roll out the crust a quarter of an inch thick. Line 
the sides of a deep baking dish with crust ; put in part of 
the chicken, and season with salt and pepper ; then add 
the rest of the chicken, and season the same v/ay. Put 
in the dish two cupfuls of the broth in which the 
chicken was boiled, and cover the top with crust, making 
in the center of the crust a hole large enough to admit 
of adding more of the broth, if necessary. Most chicken 
pie is too dry, therefore the broth should be added 
plentifully. Bake one hour. Heat what broth remains, 
add enough flour to thicken it, wetting the flour to a 
paste with milk, and season with salt and pepper. Send 
to the table in a gravy dish, to be serv^ed with the 
pie. 

CHICKEN PIE, NO. 2. 

For a dish holding three quarts there will be required 
two chickens that together will weigh eight pounds. Cut 
the chickens each in two parts, splitting them down the 
back and front. Cover them with boiling water, and 
simmer until tender. If the chickens are a year old, 
allow at least an hour and a-half of gentle boiling. Let 
the chickens cool in the water in which they were boiled, 
remove the skin, and cut them into pieces suitable for 
serving. Place the meat in the pie dish, and sprinkle 
with salt and pepper. Make a sauce as follows • 

Four table-spoonfuls of butter. 
Four table-spoonfuls of flour. 
Two slices of carrot. 



MEATS. 223 

One-half an onion. 

Three pints of the chicken broth. 

One sprig of parsley. 

One bit of mace. 

One bay-leaf. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

'Put the butler and flour in a sauce-pan, and beat until 
soft and creamy. Add the vegetables, spice and herbs 
and the broth, from which all the oil should have been 
removed ; and heat slowly to boiling point. When 
boiling, set it where it will simmer slowly for fifteen 
minutes, add salt and pepper, and strain the sauce over 
the chicken. Next make the crust for the pie, using 

One pint of flour. 

One-half table-spoonful of sugar. 

One-half table-spoonTul of lemon juice. 

One cupful of butter. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One egg. 

One-quarter of a cupful of ice water. 

Place the flour, sugar, salt and butter in a chopping 
tray, and chop the butter into the flour until reduced to 
lumps the size of a walnut. Mix together the beaten 
egg, lemon juice and water, and add the mixture, a little 
at a time, to the flour and butter, chopping all the time. 
When all the mixture is used, sprinkle a moulding board 
with flour, and turn the paste upon it. Roll the dough 
out and fold it as for puff paste. Do this three or 
four times and then set it on the ice to chill before 
using. Roll out this paste, making it a little larger 
than the top of the pie dish. Cut a slash in the center 
of the crust to allow the steam to escape, and lay the 



224 ^^^ ^^ fTEKN COOK-BOOK. 

crust over the chicken, turning the edge of the crust 
into the dish. Bake in a moderately hot oven for an 
hour and a-quarter, and serve hot. 

CHICKEN SALAD. (See Salads.) 

CHICKEN SANDWICHES. 

One cupful of cold chicken. 

One table-spoonful of melted butter. 

Two eggs (yolks only). 

One tea-spoonful of rich stock. 

One tea-spoonful of lemon juice. 

Salt and pepper. 

Boil the eggs fifteen minutes, cool them, take out the 
yolks, and mash them as fine as possible. Add to these 
the melted butter and lemon juice, the chicken chopped 
very fine, and salt, pepper and the stock. If the stock 
cannot be conveniently procured, use a tea-spoonful of 
Leibig's Extract of Beef, which may always be bought. 
Mix all well together. A sort of paste will be the result, 
and with this may be made very delicate sandwiches for a 
company late supper, card party, etc. 

CHICKEN DISHES. 

One is fairly bewildered at the hundreds of dishes that 
are prepared from shredded cooked chicken or from any 
left-over pieces. Most of the chicken entrees are pre- 
pared from the breasts alone, and these are called fillers. 
One dainty preparation of cold roast or boiled chicken is 
called 



MEATS. 225 

CHICKEN a V Italienne. 

One pint of chicken meat. 
One table-spoonful of butter. 
One table-spoonful of flour. 
Twelve drops of onion juice. 
Three hard-boiled eggs. 
One-half pint of cream or milk. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 

Cut the meat into dice to measure. Heat the butter 
and stir in the flour ; then cook for two minutes, stirring 
constantly, and taking care the flour does not brown. 
Add the milk or cream, and stir until boiling. Remove 
from the fire, and add the chicken and seasoning. Mix 
carefully, and place the sauce-pan in another containing 
hot water, or else use a milk boiler. When the mixture 
is thoroughly heated, remove it from the fire and dish. 
Boil the eggs ten minutes, and lay them in cold water to 
be ready to use when the chicken is done. Separate the 
yolks, and press them through the potato-masher ; or 
they may be worked through a fine sieve, the latter 
being, however, very slow work. Sprinkle the yolks 
thus powdered over the top of the chicken, and serve. 
This makes a very attractive-looking dish and forms a 
palatable entre'e for dinner. Another dish of this kind is 

BOUDIN a la Reine. 

One pint of chicken meat. 
One table-spoonful of butter. 
Two table-spoonsfuls of dried bread-crumbs. 
One table-spoonful of chopped parsley. 
One-half cupful of stock or water. 
One-quarter of a nutmeg. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 
15 



226 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Heat the butter, and add the crumbs and stock. Re- 
move from the hre, and add the chicken chopped fine, 
the parsley, the nutmeg grated, salt and pepper, and 
lastly the eggs slightly beaten. Mix all thoroughly, and 
place the mixture in tea or custard cups, filling the cups 
two-thirds full. Half fill a baking pan with boiling water, 
set the cups in the water, and bake twenty minutes in a 
moderate oven. When done, turn the contents of each 
cup out upon a heated dish, and pour around them a 
cream sauce. Remnants of cold roasted or boiled turkey 
may be used in the same way. 

GEESE. 

These fowls live to be very old, and for that reason 
great care is needed in selecting them. They are not 
good after they are three years old, and they are in per- 
fection when from six months to a year old. A young 
goose has down on its legs, and the legs are soft and yel- 
low. Like a turkey, as it grows old its legs change to a 
reddish color. 

ROAST GOOSE, WITH POTATO STUFFING. 

Clean the goose as directed for any poultry, cutting off 
the neck and arranging the breast for stuffing, the same 
as for roast turkey. Geese, when properly dressed, are 
always filled with potato stuffing. 

POTATO STUFFING, 

Six potatoes. 

One tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One tea-spoonful of sage. 

One table-spoonful of salt. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

Two table-spoonfuls of onion juice. 



MEATS. 227 

Pare and boil the potatoes, and mash them fine. Add 
the seasoning, and fill the breast and body with the 
stuffing, laying it in lightly. Sew and truss the same as 
directed for turkey, sprinkle with salt, pepper and flour, 
and cover the breast with slices of fat salt pork. The 
goose is not a favorite on account of the quantity of oil it 
contains and the disagreeable taste of the oil. The pork 
fat is quickly drawn out by the heat, flows over the goose 
and aids in drawing out the oil. When the goose has 
roasted forty-five minutes, take it from the oven, remove 
the pork, baste well with the oil in the pan, and pour off 
some of the oil if there should be a large quantity. Baste 
every fifteen minutes after the goose has roasted twenty- 
five or thirty minutes, the same as for turkey. Boil the 
giblets, and make the gravy as directed on page 205. If 
the oil is so much disliked that it cannot be used for the 
gravy, make the following gravy : Place two table-spoon- 
fuls of butter in a frying-pan, and when hot, stir in two 
table-spoonfuls of flour. After the flour has cooked 
brown, add gradually the water in which the giblets were 
boiled, and lastly the chopped giblets, adding hot water 
also if the gravy should seem too thick. Season with 
salt and pepper. Apple sauce should always be served 
with roast goose. Goslings may be roasted in the same 
way, allowing, however, but fifteen minutes to a pound for 
cooking. 

DEVILED GOOSE. 

After cleaning the goose and w^iping it well with a 
damp cloth, plunge it into a kettle of boiling water, and 
boil moderately for one hour. Take it from the kettle, 
drain well, and wipe it dry. Fill the body and neck with 



228 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

the potato stuffing described in the preceding recipe, 
truss and sew up the same as directed for roast turkey, 
and roast in a very hot oven, allowing fifteen minutes to 
a pound. Then mix together 

Four table-spoonfuls of vinegar. 

Two table-spoonfuls of pepper. 

Two table-spoonfuls of made mustard. 

Pour this over the goose as it is put in the oven, and 
baste frequently with the liquid at the bottom of the pan. 
Boil the giblets, and make the gravy as directed for roast 
turkey. This way of dressing is particularly nice for 
those who do not care for the flavor of the goose. An 
old goose that can be cooked in no other way may be so 
dressed, two hours being allowed for the boiling instead 
of one. 

DUCKS. 

ROAST DUCK. 

Epicures prefer ducks cooked rare, and when so pre- 
pared they are not stuffed. Should filling be preferred, 
use the potato stuffing on page 226, putting it in very 
hot. Many who consider that ducks have a strong 
flavor lay apples in the body, having them cored and 
quartered. The apples absorb this flavor and are re- 
moved before the duck is sent to the table. Celery and 
onion are also placed inside the duck to season it and im- 
prove the flavor, two table-spoonfuls of chopped onion 
being used to every cupful of chopped celery, which may 
consist of the green stalks that are not desired for the 
table. This stuffing is also removed from the fowl before 
it is sent to the table. Truss the duck, sprinkle it with 



MEATS. 229 

salt, pepper and flour, and roast thirty minutes, provided 
the duck is young and is desired rare. Full-grown do- 
mestic ducks should be roasted at least an hour and 
basted every ten minutes. 

Make the giblet gravy, and send apple sauce or grape 
or currant jelly to the table with the ducks. Green peas 
should be served with roast duck. 

WILD DUCKS. 

Nearly all wild ducks are apt to have a fishy flavor, 
and when dressed by an inexperienced cook are often 
unfit to eat. This flav^or may be much lessened by plac- 
ing in each duck a small peeled carrot, plunging the fowls 
in boilino- water and boiling them ten minutes before 
roasting. The carrot will absorb the unpleasant taste. 
An onion will have the same effect, but unless onion is 
used in the stuffing, the carrot is to be preferred. When 
there is an objection to parboiling (which there always 
should be when very young ducks are to be cooked), rub 
the ducks lightly with an onion cut in two, and put three 
or four uncooked cranberries in each before cooking. 

ROAST WILD DUCK. 

Clean the same as turkey, wiping both inside and out 
with a damp towel. After parboiling or using the cran- 
berries, as directed, tuck back the wings and truss the 
legs down close to the body. Dust the fowls with salt, 
pepper and flour, put a piece of butter the size of a wal- 
nut in each, place them in a baking pan, and add a cup- 
ful of water. Bake from forty-five minutes to an hour if 
liked well done, or thirty minutes if liked rare, basting 
frequently with the gravy in the pan. When done, 



230 The pattern cook-booj^. 

thicken the gravy. Wild ducks are seldom stuffed when 
roasted. 

TO COOK THE MALLARD WILD DUCK. 

These ducks, which are shot in the West, are consid- 
ered very dry when roasted in the usual way. In Kansas 
they are stuffed with the common bread stuffing well 
sewed up and tied in shape. They are then placed 
in a large kettle with a couple of slices of onion 
and a little thyme, and a small quantity of water is 
added. They are cooked slowly for one hour, being 
turned frequently. The water should be replenished, but 
only enough should be added to keep the ducks from 
burning. A gravy is made from the juices in the kettle 
by adding a cupful of water to them and thickening with 
flour. This gravy is poured over the ducks when served. 
Dressed in this way all parts are equally as good as the 
breast, and the gravy is not the least delicious part of the 
whole. 

GUINEA FOWLS. 

Young guinea fowls make a delicious fricassee. Clean 
them, and cut them in pieces the same as chickens. 
Place some slices of fat bacon in a frying-pan, and when 
these have fried long enough to extract some of the oil, 
add the pieces of fowl and brown them well. To every 
two fowls add to the pan two table-spoonfuls of flour, stir 
until thoroughly mixed, and then add a pint of hot water, 
a tea-spoonful of salt and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of 
pepper, stirring until the gravy boils. Cover well, and 
simmer in a gentle heat until the meat is tender, which is 
generally in an hour and a-half. Serve with the gravy 



ME A TS. 



231 



from' the bottom of the pan, adding more salt and pepper, 
if needed^ 

PEA FOWLS. 

The peacock and the peahen are cooked the same as 
turkeys. 

PHEASANTS, PARTRIDGES, QUAIL AND GROUSE. 

The real pheasant is not sold in America. The bird 
known by that name in the South is called a partridge in 
the North, but is, properly speaking, the ruffled grouse. 
The f^orthern quail is the English and Southern par- 
tridge. The wild fowls brought so plentifully from the 
West to Eastern cities and called prairie fowls are a 
species of grouse. The methods of cooking all these 
birds are substantially the same. They should never be 
washed, but simply wiped with a damp towel, all shot 
being carefully picked out of the flesh with a sharp- 
pointed knife. Partridges are cooked in forty minutes 
and quail in ten. 

ROASTED. 

Clean, truss and stuff the birds the same as turkey, and 
bake until brown, basting often with butter and water. 
Thicken the gravy, and pour it over the birds. 

BROILED. 

Clean the birds and split them down the back. 
Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dust with flour to keep in 
the juices, and broil in a wire broiler, laying the inside 
to the fire first. When done, lay them on a warm dish, 
butter them on both sides, and serve. During the broil- 



232 THE PA TTERN CO OK-B O OK. 

ino-, if the breasts are quite thick, cover the broiler with 
a pan, and see that the fire is not too fierce. Broiled 
quail are considered very nourishing food for invalids. 

PANNED. 

Clean, and split the birds down the back. Dip them 
quickly in cold water, and sprinkle with salt, pepper and 
flour. The water causes the seasoning to adhere more 
thickly to the meat. Place the birds in a small baking- 
dish, with the inside of each upward ; place a small 
piece of butter in each bird, add a cupful of water, and 
roast in the oven, basting every five minutes after the 
first fifteen. Thicken the gravy, add salt and pepper, if 
necessary, and pour the gravy over the birds. 

SMALL BIRDS. 

Nearly all small birds are served with their heads on, 
these being skinned when the birds are cleaned. There 
is a difference of opinion among epicures as to the draw- 
ing of these birds, many cooking them undrawn. The 
English do not draw woodcock, regarding the trail as not 
the least delicious part of the bird ; and some American 
housekeepers copy them in this respect. It seems, how- 
ever, that in time the custom of eating entrails (a relic 
of barbarism) and of serving birds without first removing 
their heads will become obsolete. 

SNIPE, ROASTED. 

Clean and truss, but do not stuff the birds, and lay 
them in rows in a baking-pan ; sprinkle with salt, and 
baste well with butter and water. When they begin to 
brown, which should be in ten minutes, cut as many slices 



MEATS. 233 

of bread as there are birds, round the slices, cutting olf 
the crusts, toast them quickly, and butter lightly while 
hot. Slip a slice of toast under each bird in the baking- 
pan, and bake the remaining five minutes, basting the 
birds with melted butter. Place them on the platter, 
with the toast under them ; then thicken what gravy 
there may be in the pan, adding a little water to it ; 
and pour it over the snipe and toast. The largest snipe 
will not require more than twenty minutes cooking, if the 
oven is hot enough. 

SNIPE, FRIED. 

Clean the birds, and wipe them dry; tie the legs close 
to the body, skin the head, after picking the feathers off 
as near the head as possible, and tie the beak of each 
bird under one of its wings, tying also a thin slice of 
bacon around each breast. Place the birds in a frying- 
basket, and fry in plenty of hot fat until of a delicate 
brown. This should not take over five minutes if the 
fat is as hot as it should be. Season, and serve on 
toast. 

WOODCOCK. 

This is the most delicious of the small birds and may 
be roasted, panned or broiled the same as pheasants. 
Among epicures a favorite dish is known as 

BARDED WOODCOCK. 

Remove the crop, skin the head, and take out the eyes ; 
scald the feet and legs, and skin them as high as the 
first joint. Draw the bird or not, as may be preferred. 
Sprinkle well with salt, and, drawing the head down 



234 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

to the feet, wrap the bird in a thin slice of clear salt 
pork ; run a skewer through to keep the pork, head 
and feet in position, and run from three to six birds 
on each skewer. Rub soft butter over the parts not 
covered by the pork, and dredge all with flour. Place 
toasted bread under each bird in the baking-pan, as 
described for roasted snipe, rest the ends of the skewers 
on the edges of the pan, place the latter in a very 
hot oven, and cook ten minutes — fifteen, if the oven 
is not extra hot. On removing the pan from the oven, 
draw out the skewer gently, slip each bird on its slice of 
toast, and serve very hot, pouring the gravy from the 
pan over all. Any small birds may be cooked in this 
way. 

SMALL BIRDS, ROASTED IN POTATOES. 

Halve sweet potatoes lengthwise, and scrape out the 
inside, making a place large enough in each half to hold 
half the bird. Clean and draw the birds, cutting off 
heads and legs, the same as directed for turkey. Place 
a piece of butter in each bird, season with salt and pep- 
per, spread them with butter, and place them in the po- 
tato shells, tying a string around each potato to hold 
the pieces together. Roast in a baking-pan, and serve in 
the potatoes. 

PIGEONS. 

These are drawn, singed and roasted or broiled the 
same as chickens. 

SQUABS. 

Squabs are broiled or roasted whole the same as wood- 
cock, and are very delicious when carefully prepared. 



Meats. 235 

RABBITS. 

The tame rabbit is rarely if ever eafefi. The " old 
hare" of the South is the same as the rabbit of the North, 
and when fat and tender, may be made into a variety of 
dishes. The wild rabbit of America is almost equal in 
flavor to the English hare and may be dressed in the 
same way. 

JUGGED RABBIT. 

Have the rabbit skinned by the butcher, draw it, and 
wash quickly. Cut it into pieces and roll each piece in 
flour. Heat half a cupful of butter in a frying-pan, and 
put in the meat to brown well on all sides. Then remove 
the meat, and place it in a sauce-pan. Put in the fat in 
the frying-pan two table-spoonfuls of flour, stir until 
brown, add three cupfuls of water, cook ten minutes 
and pour the gravy over the meat in the stew-pan. Now 
add salt, pepper, a little spice and a small onion, uncut. 
Cover closely, simm.er an hour and a-half, and add a 
table-spoonful of lemon-juice, a table-spoonful of mush- 
room ketchup (or any other kind that may be at hand) 
and four table-spoonfuls of sherry wine. Serve at once, 
and send with it to the table a dish of boiled rice. The 
wine may be omitted, but it adds greatly to the flavor. 

FRICASSEED RABBIT. 

This is prepared the same as fricasseed chicken, either 
white or brown. 

FRIED RABBITS. 

Cut the rabbits in pieces, as for fricassee, dip each 
piece in beaten ^gg and then in cracker dust, and fry 
brown in plenty of hot fat. 



2:? 6 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 



SQUIRRELS. 

The large gray squirrel is seldom eaten at the North, 
but is much liked in the Southern States. Squirrels are 
cooked the same as rabbits, or are made into the popular 
dish known as 

BRUNSWICK STEW. 

This is named from a county in Virginia and is a favor- 
ite dish in that section of the country. 

Two large squirrels. 
One quart of tomato, peeled and sliced. 
One pint of butter beans or hmas. 
One and one-half tea-spoonful of pepper. 
Two tea-spoonfuls of white sugar. 
One onion, minced small. 
Six potatoes. 

Six ears of corn, cut from the cob. 
One-half pound of butter. 
One-half pound of salt pork. 
, One table-spoonful of salt. 
Four quarts of water. 

Cut the squirrels in pieces, as for a fricassee. Add 
the salt to the water, and boil five minutes. Put in the 
onion, beans, corn, pork, potato, pepper and the squirrels. 
Cover closely, and stew two hour.s ; then add the sugar 
and tomato, and stew one hour more. Ten minutes be- 
fore removing the stew from the fire, add the butter, cut 
into pieces the size of a walnut and rolled in flour. Boil 
up again, adding more salt and pepper if needed, and 
turn into a tureen. This is to be eaten from soup plates. 



MEATS. 237 

VENISON. 

The taste for this meat is certainly an acquired one, 
but there is much to recommend the cultivation of it, 
since venison is one of the most easily digested of meats. 
The meat should be of fine grain and nicely covered with 
fat. If the venison is young, the hoof will be but slightly 
opened ; if old, the hoof will be wide open. Venison, 
like all game, is not usually fat enough, and is always 
enriched by larding, or by placing slices of fat salt pork 
or bacon over it. The fat and juices are sometimes kept 
in by a thick layer of flour paste. Venison should al- 
ways be well wiped before cooking, as the hairs are often 
found clinging to the meat. 

roast'leg of venison. 

Wipe carefully, and draw off the dry skin. Lard the 
lean side of the leg ; then soften a quarter of a cupful of 
butter, rub it over the meat, and dredge with salt, pepper 
and flour. Lay the leg on the rack in the baking-pan, 
sprinkle the bottom of the pan with flour, place it. in a 
very hot oven, and watch carefully until the flour in the 
pan is browned, which should be in five minutes. Add 
boiling water to cover the bottom of the pan, and after 
roasting fifteen minutes, baste the venison well, and re- 
peat the basting every fifteen minutes until the meat is 
done, renewing the water in the pan as often as neces- 
sary. Should the meat be liked very rare, allow for a 
ten-pound roast, an hour and a-quarter of cooking; but 
most tastes require at least fifteen minutes longer than 
that. Serve with a gravy made from the juices in the 
bottom of the pan, the same as that for roast beef, send- 



238 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

ing the gravy to table in a gravy-boat. Always serve 
currant jelly with venison. The oven must be very hot 
the first half-hour, and after that the heat may be lessened 
somewhat. 

THE SADDLE OF VENISON. 

The saddle is, perhaps, the most distinguished cut of 
venison and is roasted the same as the leg. 

VENISON STEAKS. 

These are broiled rare the same as beefsteak. 

VENISON, ROLLED. 

This is made the same as stuffed beefsteak. 

Game should not be kept too long. 

Venison may be hung three weeks in cold weather, but 
birds should rarely be hung longer than one week. If 
birds are to be kept many days, draw but do not pick 
them, place a piece of charcoal in the body, and sift 
powdered charcoal into the feathers. 



VEGETABLES. 

" Cheerful looks makes every dish a feast." 

• Massinger. 

We need a large variety of vegetables in our food to 
promote perfect health. Vegetables are rich in saline 
substances, which counteract the evil effect of too much 
animal food ; and those that contain starch and albumen 
and can be stored for use during the winter months are 
considered the most valuable. Peas, beans, squashes, 
beets and turnips, which contain sugar, should be slightly 
sweetened, as much of the natural sweetness is lost in 
the cooking. Those that contain potash salts, as cab- 
bage and lettuce, need an acid condiment. When peas, 
beans and other vegetables are found difficult of diges- 
tion, they may often be eaten safely if made in the form 
of a puree. 

All green vegetables should be freshly gathered, 
washed well in cold water, and cooked in freshly boiled 
water until tender, but no longer. 

After water has boiled for a time, it parts with its 
gases and becomes hard ; and most vegetables are better 
cooked in soft water. It is well known that split peas, 
dried beans and lentils will not boil soft in hard water. 
In some cases, however, the solvent power of pure soft 

239 



240 THE PA TTERiV COOK-BOOK. 

water is so great that it destroys the firmness, color and 
skin of some of the green vegetables, so that their juices 
pass out into the water. This is especially true of green 
peas and beans ; and in such cases hard water is better 
than soft. A tea-spoonful of common salt added to every 
four quarts of water hardens it at once, while half a tea- 
spoonful of bi-carbonate of soda placed in the same quan- 
tity of water renders it soft. French cooks recommend 
half a tea-spooonful of ammonia for the latter purpose. 
Young, green vegetables, therefore, should be cooked in 
boiling salted water. Onions, if boiled in soft water, are 
almost tasteless, and no after salting can restore the 
sweet saline taste and aroma which they possess when 
boiled in hard (salted) water. If green vegetables are 
wilted, soak them for an hour in cold water. Do not add 
salt, as it hardens the tissues. 

Peas, beans and lentils are the most nutritious of vege- 
table substances. They are said to contain as much 
carbon (heat-giving food) as wheat, and almost double 
the amount of nitrogen (muscle-forming food). Lentils 
are almost unknown in this country, except to the Ger- 
mans, who use them for soup, which, though made 
entirely without meat, is most nutritious. Lentils afford 
the most concentrated form of vegetable diet, and in 
olden times their value was fully appreciated. Esau sold 
his birthright, we are told, for a mess of lentil pottage, 
and w^e read that the pyramids were built by men who 
lived on lentils, garlic and water. In the time of Pha- 
raoh lentils were considered a dish to be served to per- 
sons of distinction. It is much to be deplored that we, 
as a people, do not use this vegetable freely. 

Vegetables that have been stored in the autumn for 



VEGETABLES. 24 1 

winter use become much wilted as the season advances. 
Carrots, turnips, potatoes, onions and cabbage that were 
crisp and delicate at first get strong-flavored as well as 
withered and dried. These should stand several hours 
in cold water before being cooked and should then be 
boiled in four times their quantity of water. Cooking in 
insufficient water will make them dark and give them a 
very unpleasant flavor. 

Lettuce that has become wilted will brighten if laid 
in ice-water. Celery that seems unfit for use may be 
made quite fresh again by being laid in a pan of luke- 
warm water, which will then be set upon the ice, or out- 
doors, if the weather is cold, to gradually cool. When 
thoroughly cold the celery will be crisp and fresh. 
Celery that is so wilted that it may actually be tied 
in a knot has been revived most effectually by this 
method. 

Rice, hominy and macaroni are wisely used as vegeta- 
bles during the winter and early spring. 

PROPER VEGETABLES TO SERVE WITH MEATS. 

Housekeepers are often perplexed about the choice of 
a vegetable to accompany various kinds of meat and fish. 
In America'n families of moderate means the dinner 
seldom consists of more than three courses, and in very 
many cases there are but two, the meat and vegetables 
and the dessert. In such a dinner several kinds of vege- 
tables may be used, whereas in a dinner of several 
courses only one or, at the most, two kinds of veg- 
etables should be provided with each dish of meat or 
fish. 
16 



242 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

FISH. 

With fish may be served potatoes and tomatoes in any 
form ; also cucumbers, onions and green peas. If the 
fish is prepared with curry sauce as an accompaniment, 
rice should also be served ; if dressed with a cream 
sauce, any kind of potatoes, except fried, will be appro- 
priate. Fish is so delicate that a vegetable of pro- 
nounced flavor should never be served with it. Therefore 
onions should be made as dainty as possible by being 
boiled in a large quantity of water, which should be 
changed several times ; they may then be drained and a 
cream sauce added. It used to be the fashion to serve 
nothing with fish, but bread, potatoes in some dainty 
form, and green peas are now always provided with it. 

ROAST BEEF AND BEEFSTEAK. 

These are the only meats that have not some really 
distinctive vegetable to accompany them. For this rea- 
son any variety may be served with them. 

CORNED BEEF. 

There are some vegetables which appear almost indis- 
pensable with corned beef, such as potatoes, turnips, 
cabbage, beets and carrots. There are, however, several 
substitutes for cabbage, among them being spinach, beet 
greens, Brussels-sprouts, dandelions and lettuce ; and 
Kohl-rabi may take the place of turnips. Parsnips and 
sweet potatoes are also good with corned beef. 

MUTTON AND LAMB. 

There may be about as great a variety of vegetables 
served with these meats as with beef, but roast lamb is 



VEGETABLES. 243 

more frequently eaten with green peas and lettuce than 
with anything else. 

PORK. 

With roast pork may be provided white or sweet pota- 
toes, squash, onions, turnips, carrots, okra, parsnips, 
tomatoes, spinach, cauliflower, Brussels-sprouts, Kohl- 
rabi, salsify, rice or hominy. Always serve a dish of 
apple sauce with pork. 

VEAL. 

Roast or braised veal is most appropriately accompa- 
nied by young carrots, white turnips or spinach. Among 
other vegetables that are also often served with this meat 
are fresh peas, beans, asparagus, okra, tomatoes, dande- 
lion, lettuce, parsnips, creamed cabbage, young beets or 
beet greens. 

POULTRY AND GAME. 

With boiled or roasted turkey or chicken should be 
eaten potatoes, cauliflower, turnips, stewed celery, onions, 
macaroni or parsnips. Game of all kinds should be so 
cooked and served that its natural flavor will be in no 
way disguised. For this reason the sauces and vegeta- 
bles should combine in a pleasing way with the game 
flavor. Celery is always excellent and may be served 
plain, stewed, with a white sauce or with mayonnaise 
dressing. At a dinner of many courses it is customary 
to serve with the game a sauce, a salad — almost always an 
uncooked vegetable — and bread. Among the vegetables 
that are good with any kind of game are green peas, 
French beans, sweet potatoes, tomatoes either stuffed, 



244 ^^^^ ^^ TTEKN COOK-BOOK. 

broiled or in a salad, white potatoes as croquettes or 
puffs or fried in balls, cauliflower cooked au gratin, and 
spinach a la creme ; and some care for stuffed olives as an 
accompaniment of wild duck. Unless an olive sauce is 
used, olives may be served with this game, but they must 
be omitted if the sauce is provided. For roast goose the 
vegetables are not numerous. Onions and potatoes are 
considered necessary, and so is apple sauce. Sweet pota- 
toes, squash, rice, turnips and beans are also appropriate 
with roast goose. 

In arranging a bill of fare, avoid placing two similar 
vegetables in the same course. The common vegetables 
that are more or less alike may be classified as follows : 

1. Cabbage, chicory, spinach, lettuce, endive, dande- 
lion, cauliflower, beet greens, Brussels-sprouts. 

2. Turnips, salsify, Kohl-rabi. 

3. Squash, sweet potatoes. 

4. Shelled peas and beans. 

5. Rice, hominy, macaroni, white potatoes. 

Thus, if squash be served, sweet potatoes should not 
appear in the same course ; or if turnips be served, 
salsify should not. 

POTATOES. 

The potato is more generally used than any other 
vegetable. It contains but little muscle-forming food and 
is composed three-fourths of water, the other fourth con- 
sisting largely of starch. In the spring sprouts begin to 
grow at the expense of the starch, and if allowed to 
remain, they soon exhaust all there is of good in the po- 
tato ; hence they should be removed as soon as they 
appear. The majority of housekeepers do not understand 



VEGETABLES. 245 

the characteristics of this vegetable. It may be soaked 
in water for twelve or more hours before being cooked 
and will be improved rather than injured by the process, 
but let it stand in but little moisture after it is cooked 
and it will soon be spoiled. The starch in the raw 
potato does not unite with moisture, but as soon as it is 
cooked it absorbs water like a sponge. A good potato 
will be light and mealy when boiled or baked, but if the 
cooking be continued too long, the potato will become 
dark, heavy and strong-flavored. If potatoes are desired 
for warming over or for a salad, they should not be very 
mealy. New potatoes, being rather moist, are to be pre- 
ferred for these two purposes ; but potatoes that are to 
be used in either of these two ways, and that are usually 
mealy when boiled, may be greatly improved by taking 
them from the water when a little underdone. 

BOILED POTATOES. 

There are so many ways of boiling potatoes that it is 
really difficult to satisfy one's mind which is the best, 
each mode being good, provided it is properly followed. 
The French hold that by using too much water the flavor 
of the potatoes becomes seriously impaired, but American 
cooks always cover them well with water during the boil- 
ing. Select potatoes of uniform size, wash and scrub 
them well, and pare them or not, as may be desired. 
Potatoes that are not prime and have any indication of 
worm holes or decay should always be pared and these 
blemishes removed. Let the potatoes soak an hour in 
cold water, place them in a kettle, and cover with boiling 
water, adding a table-spoonful of salt to every eight 
potatoes after they have been boiling fifteen minutes. 



246 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

They should boil only moderately, else the outside will 
be broken before the center is cooked, which never hap- 
pens except when the boiling has been too strong. Pota- 
toes should be- done in thirty-five minutes. When tender, 
pour off all the water, and set the kettle on the back part 
of the range, with the cover half off to let the steam 
escape. Serve very hot. If the potatoes are to be kept 
any length of time, cover the kettle with a folded towel 
after pouring off the water. 

MASHED POTATOES. 

Pare the potatoes carefully, and boil as above directed. 
If they are very mealy when done, drain the water from 
them and mash at once. If they do not seem mealy, set 
them for a moment with the cover off the kettle, and they 
will, soon be ready for the mashing. Mash them well, 
and to every quart of potatoes add 

One table-spoonful of butter. 
One table-spoonful of salt. 
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper. 
Hot milk or cream to moisten. 

Mash the potatoes in the kettle in which they were 
boiled, beat them with a fork or spoon until light and 
creamy and turn out lightly in the warmed serving dish. 
Do not smooth the potatoes, as that will make them com 
pact and heavy. By using the masher illustrated on 
page 32, potatoes may be made very light. 

BAKED POTATOES. 

As the potato contains potash, which is an important 
constituent of the blood and is freely given off in the 



VEGETABLES, 247 

water in boiling, potatoes are much more wholesome 
when baked. Wash them well, place them in a baking- 
pan, and bake in a quick oven for from thirty to forty-five 
minutes. As all ovens do not bake alike, it is impossible 
to give the exact length of time required. Shake the pan 
at the end of twenty minutes to turn the potatoes. 
When they may be mashed in the hands they are done. 
Do not pierce them with a fork, as that allows the escape 
of the steam and makes the potato heavy ; and serve as 
soon as baked for the same reason. 

PRINCESS POTATOES. 

One pint of mashed potatoes. 

One table-spoonful of melted butter. 

One egg, well beaten. 

Cut the potato into strips two inches long, one inch 
wide and half an inch thick ; or, if hurried, the potatoes 
may be made into flat balls half an inch thick. Dip the 
strips or balls first into the melted butter and then into 
the ^gg^ and lay them with a knife in a lightly buttered 
tin pan. Cook in a hot oven for twelve minutes, and 
serve. 

POTATO FRITTERS. 

Five cold boiled potatoes. 

Five table-spoonfuls of flour. 

Two eggs. 

One-half cupful of milk. 

One tea-spoonful of baking powder. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Grate the potatoes. Mix the flour, baking powder and 
salt well together, and add the potato, mixing as lightly 
as possible. Add the milk, and the eggs, well beaten. 



248 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK, 

Have ready a kettle containing boiling lard to the 
depth of three inches. Drop in the mixture by spoon- 
fuls, and fry eight minutes. Drain well, and serve. The 
fat should be so hot that blue smoke rises from the 
center of tne kettle. 

CREAM Et) Potato, with parsley. 

One quart of potatoes. 

One tea-spoonful of flour. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One pint of milk. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One tea-spoonful of chopped parsley. 

Use for this purpose cold boiled potatoes, chopped 
rather coarsely and measured after chopping. Put them 
in a stew-pan with the flour, salt and pepper, and when 
the whole is well mixed, add the milk. Set the stew-pan 
in another containing boiling water, and cook until the 
mixture is boiling hot, usually fifteen minutes. Then add 
the butter and parsley. Take the stew-pan from the 
water, and set it where the potatoes will boil up once ; 
then add more salt and pepper, if needed, and serve. 

OMELET OF POTATO. 

Nine potatoes of medium size. 
One-third tea-spoonful of pepper. 
One-half a cupful of hot milk. 
Three table-spoonfuls of butter. 
One table-spoonful of salt. 

Pare the potatoes, boil and mash them until fine and 
light, and add salt, pepper, two table-spoonfuls of the 
butter, and gradually the hot milk, beating all the 



VEGETABLES. 249 

time. Put the remaining spoonful of butter in a large 
frying-pan, and when it is hot, turn in the potatoes, 
spreading them smoothly. Cover the pan and set it 
where its contents will brown slowly and evenly. When 
done (generally in about ten minutes), fold the potatoes 
the same as an omelet, turn them out upon a hot dish, 

and serve. 

POTATOES au Gratin. 

One quart of cold potatoes. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

One table-spoonful of flour. 

One pint of milk. 

One tea-spoonful of chopped parsley. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Heat the butter, and add the flour. When the mixture 
is smooth and frothy, draw the pan to a cooler part of the 
range, and add the milk gradually and then the salt and 
pepper. Butter a granite-ware or stone-china platter, and 
spread upon it the cold potato cut into cubes. Season 
with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with the parsley. 
Cover the potatoes with the cream sauce, and bake in the 
oven for twelve minutes. The cubes should be slightly 
browned when served. 

POTATO BALLS. 

These are generally served with fish. With a vegetable 
scoop, cut two quarts of balls out of raw potatoes, boil 
them twelve minutes, and drain. Add to them 

One tea-spoonful of lemon juice. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
One quarter tea-spoonful of pepper 
One table-spoonful of parsley. 
Three table-spoonfuls of butter. 



250 THE FA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Chop the parsley fine, stir all the seasoning into the 
balls, and serve at once. 

POTATOES ROASTED WITH MEAT. 

This is a favorite way of cooking potatoes when veal, 
pork or beef is to be roasted. They should not, how- 
ever, be dry, hard and pale-colored, but soft and well 
browned. The potatoes should not be small, else they 
will bake dry and crusty. Pare the potatoes, boil them 
fifteen minutes, and drain well. Then place them in the 
baking-pan with the roast, and cook for forty-five minutes, 
turning them often and basting with the gravy from the 
roast. Serve them arranged about the meat. Some 
cooks do not parboil the potatoes before putting them in 
the pan, but the result is not so successful, especially 
when beef is roasting, which requires so much less time 
for cooking than either veal, pork or mutton. 

STUFFED POTATOES. 

Bake potatoes of equal size, and when they are done 
and still hot, cut a small piece from one end of each and 
carefully scoop out the inside, leaving the skin unbroken. 
Mash the potato well, seasoning it with plenty of butter, 
salt and pepper ; then return it with a small spoon to the 
skins, leaving the potato protruding about an inch beyond 
the skin. Set the potato on the opposite end, crushing 
it a little to make it stand firmly. When enough skins 
are filled roughen the potato that projects above the skin 
with a knife or a fork, and place the potatoes in a very 
hot oven to lightly brown the top. They should look 
when done like baked potatoes burst open. 



VE GE TA BLES. 2 5 I 

SARATOGA CHIPS. 

It requires a little plane or vegetable cutter to slice 
potatoes intended to be cooked in this way. Ripe, new 
potatoes are to be preferred if they can be obtained. 
Pare the potatoes, and shave them with the cutter into 
slices thinner than a wafer. Place the slices immediately 
in ice water, cutting them over a bowl of ice water, if it 
can be done conveniently, so the slices will reach the 
water without any delay. Let them soak ten minutes, 
take out a few slices at a time, and dry them well with a 
soft towel. Have ready a kettle of boiling hot lard, 
throw in the slices, a few at a time, and stir them with a 
skimmer or spoon, to keep them separated. The pota- 
toes must color quickly, but the fat must not be so hot as 
to give them a dark appearance. When of a light-brown, 
take them out, and place them on a piece of soft brown 
paper in a colander; dredge with salt and set them in the 
open oven to keep warm while the rest of the chips are 
frying. Turn the first lot from the colander into a hot 
dish, skim out the second frying and place them in the 
colander ; and so continue until all are fried. Two pota- 
toes fried in this way will make a large dishful, and they 
may be served cold if desired. Saratoga Chips make a 
convenient dish for a company dinner, as they may be 
made early in the day; but they must be kept in a dry 
place that the slices may remain crisp and nice. They 
also make a pretty garnish around game or meat of any 
kind. In the large cities they are sold by the pound, 
already fried and put up in neat boxes. 

FRENCH FRIED POTATOES. 

These potatoes must be served the moment they are 



252 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

ready. They are sliced rather thin or else cut with a 
vegetable spoon or into blocks or rhomboidal shapes. 
Let the pieces stand one hour in cold water. Have 
ready a frying-pan of very hot lard, dry the slices of po- 
tato quickly on a towel, and drop them into the lard. 
Take them out with a skimmer when done, and place 
them in a colander set on a tin plate in the open oven, to 
keep warm while the rest of the potatoes are frying. 
When all are done, sprinkle with salt, and serve very hot. 
When intended to garnish boiled or baked fish, the pota- 
toes are cut in rather thick slices and then formed into 
pretty shapes with the vegetable cutter. 

FRIED POTATOES. 

Cut cold boiled potatoes into slices a quarter of an 
inch thick, and fry them in a frying-pan in a very little 
lard, browning both sides of the slices. Add more lard 
as needed, and season the potatoes with salt and pepper 
after frying. 

POTATO PUFF. 

Two cupfuls of cold mashed potato. 

Two eggs. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

One tea-cupful of milk. 

Mash the potato well, and add the butter when melted. 
Stir to a white cream, and add the eggs beaten very 
lightly, and then the milk and the seasoning. Beat all 
well together, and bake in a deep dish until nicely 
browned. The potatoes should come from the oven light 
and puffy. 



VEGETABLES. 253 

LYONNAISE POTATOES. 

One pint of cold potatoes. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One table-spoonful of minced onion. 

One table-spoonful of chopped parsley. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

The potatoes should be rather underdone to produce 
the best results. Cut them into dice, and season with 
salt and pepper. Fry the onion in the butter until yellow, 
add the potato, and stir with a fork until both are of a 
nice brown, being careful not to break the potatoes, A 
little more butter may be required, as no vegetables absorb 
so much butter as potatoes. When done, turn the pota- 
toes out upon a hot dish, sprinkle the parsley over the 
top, and serve hot. 

TO COOK SMALL NEW POTATOES. 

It is often a question what to do with new potatoes 
that are very small. They are delicious cooked as 
described below, and for this purpose the smaller they 
are the better. Soak them one hour in cold water ; then 
rub off the skin with a coarse cloth, put them on the fire 
to boil, and when tender remove them from the fire and 
drain well. Then add to the potatoes enough milk to 
nearly cover them, and heat it to boiling. When the milk 
is hot, stir in one table-spoonful of butter rubbed to a 
cream with one table-spoonful of flour. Stir well to pre- 
vent the potatoes sticking to the stew-pan, being careful 
not to break them; and add salt and pepper, and more 
butter, if desired. Serve hot in a deep dish. The milk 
should be a thick cream and will prove a fine accompani- 
ment for the potatoes. If preferred, the milk mav be 



2 54 ^^^ PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

heated in a farina kettle and thickened while the potatoes 
are draining, adding the latter when the gravy is ready. 
None of the potatoes should be larger than a small egg. 

SWEET POTATOES. 

These may be baked, boiled or fried the same as the 
white variety, but they are much to be preferred baked. 
It is well known that sweet potatoes are much richer 
when twice cooked, and in the South they are more fre- 
quently cooked twice than once. They are boiled in 
their "jackets," and when nearly done, are drained and 
peeled and are laid in a small baking-tin ; a piece of but- 
ter is then spread on each potato and a tea-spoonful of 
sugar scattered over it, and all are baked until of a rich 
brown color. The potatoes may be cut in two pieces if 
very large. Sweet potatoes are roasted with meat the 
same as white potatoes ; and in the South they are often 
mashed, placed in a baking dish and browned in the 
oven. 

ESCALLOPED SWEET POTATOES. 

This dish makes a nice entre'e for dinner and is also 
appropriate for breakfast. 

Three pints of cold boiled sweet potatoes. 
One-third cupful of butter. 
One-quarter cupful of boiling water. 
One tea-spoonful of salt. 
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 
Three tea-spoonfuls of sugar. 

Slice the potato, and sprinkle with the salt and pepper. 
Butter a large, shallow dish, and spread the potato in it, 
making a layer not more than an inch thick. Melt the 



VEGETABLES. 255 

butter in the water, and add the sugar. Sprinkle one 
quarter of this liquid over the potato, and set the latter 
in a hot oven. In ten minutes sprinkle another quarter 
of the liquid over the potatoes, and repeat this twice 
more at intervals of ten minutes. After the last sprink- 
ling, bake ten minutes (making forty in all), and serve 
hot. 

ARTICHOKE. 

The artichoke has in the past been very little used in 
America and its value has not been understood ; but it is 
now becoming more popular. It belongs to the thistle 
family, the flower being picked before it opens. In Eng- 
land and France artichokes may be purchased for three 
or four cents each, but in the Northern markets of the 
United States they range in price from twenty to forty 
cents apiece ; in the South they are somewhat cheaper. 
Artichokes when bought should be green and crisp, for if 
the leaves are brown and dry it is a sign that the vegeta- 
ble is old and stale. The small green heads are to be 
preferred to the large ones that have leaves with dark 
and broken edges. When small and tender, the artichoke 
may be served raw as a salad. It consists of three parts, 
the bottom, leaves and choke. The choke is not eaten 
and may be removed or not, as preferred. If it is to be 
removed, cut out the stem and save it ; then with the 
point of a sharp knife cut around the base of the choke 
and draw the latter out. Cut across the top of the arti- 
choke to trim it. Then wash it and soak it for half 
an hour in salted water, using one table-spoonful of 
salt to two quarts of water. It will then be ready to 
cook. 



256 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

BOILED ARTICHOKE. 

After removing the choke and soaking as directed, 
press the stem back into the head, lay the whole in a ket- 
tle and cover with boiling water, adding one tea-spoonful 
of salt and two of lemon juice for every two quarts of 
water. Boil gently for half an hour, if the vegetable is 
young — ten minutes longer, if old. Then take the arti- 
choke from the water and drain. Serve hot with Becha- 
mel sauce or sauce Hollandaise (see "Sauces"), pouring 
the sauce around the artichoke or serving it separately. 
When eating this vegetable, break the leaves off with the 
fingers and dip the base or fleshy end in the sauce. 
When the heads are small, one is provided for each per- 
son at table ; but when they are large or expensive, they 
may each be cut in two. 

ASPARAGUS, STEWED. 

Break the stalks in inch lengths, placing the tough 
ends that are not fit to serve on a plate by themselves ; 
and wash all well. Tie the tough pieces in a piece of 
cheese-cloth, and lay them with the tender asparagus in 
a kettle, with enough slightly salted water to just cover. 
Close the kettle, and stew slowly until the asparagus is 
tender, usually thirty minutes ; the water should be di- 
minished by this time to a quantity just sufficient to keep 
the asparagus from burning. Remove the cheese-cloth 
and throw away its contents ; season the remaining 
asparagus with butter, salt and pepper, and serve at 
once. 

The tough stalks, which are usually thrown away, will 
be found to impart considerable sweetness to the juices 



VEGETABLES. 257 

in the kettle , and by tying them in the cloth, they may 
be readily taken out when no longer required. 

CREAMED ASPARAGUS. 

Cook as directed in the preceding recipe, boiling the 
water down until not more than a cupful remains. To 
this add one cupful of cream or milk, and thicken with a 
table-spoonful of flour rubbed to a paste with a little 
cold milk. Add butter, salt and pepper to taste, and 
serve at once. 

ASPARAGUS ON TOAST. 

Tie the stalks in a bundle, tying it in two places, 
and keeping the heads all one way ; then cut ofT 
the tough stalks, making those that remain of uniform 
length ; and boil the latter slowly until tender in slightly 
salted water. While they are boiling, prepare some thin 
slices of toast. Lift the asparagus from the water with 
two forks, lifting it by the strings, and lay it on a plat- 
ter. Dip the toast very quickly in the water the aspara- 
gus was boiled in, butter it lightly, and lay it on the serv- 
ing dish. Distribute the asparagus evenly over the toast, 
heaping it neatly. Butter generously, season with salt 
and pepper, and serve. A sauce is sometimes poured 
over the whole, and may be made as follows : 

One-half pint of asparagus water. 
One table-spoonful of flour. 
One table-spoonful of butter. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 

Heat half a pint of the water the asparagus was boiled 
in, and stir into it, when boiling, the flour and butter 
17 



258 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

rubbed to a cream. Add salt and pepper, and pour the 
sauce over the toast and vegetable. Some cooks serve 
sauce Hollandaise on the asparagus. (See page 138.) 

ASPARAGUS IN AMBUSH. 

One quart of asparagus tops. 

Nine stale breakfast rolls. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

One pint of milk. 

Four eggs (yolks). 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

Wash the tops, boil them fifteen minutes in slightly 
salted water, and drain. Cut the tops off the rolls, take 
out the crumb, and set them in the oven to crisp, la)ing 
each top by the roll from which it was cut. Heat the 
milk in a double boiler, and when boiling, add the beaten 
yolks, which have been thinned with two table-spoonfuls 
of milk or water. Stir two minutes until the liquid is 
like cream, add the butter, salt and pepper and the 
cooked asparagus, and remove at once from the fire. 
Take the rolls from the oven, and fill them with this mix- 
ture, put on the tops, and serve hot. The asparagus 
should not be cold when put in ; the preparation should 
be so timed that the rolls and asparagus will be ready at 
the same time. 

LIMA BEANS. 

If the green beans are used, put one pint of them into 
just enough boiling salted water to cover, and boil slowly 
until tender. This will take about an hour, if they are 
cooked slowly enough. Drain off the water, and add 
one cupful of milk or cream, a small |:iec:e of butter and 
salt and pepper to taste. Let the beans simmer a mo- 



VEGETABLES. 



259 



ment in the milk, and serve. If dried limas are used, they 
should be soaked twelve hours in plenty of cold water ; 
and when boiled, half a tea-spoonful of soda should be 
added to the water. 

CREAMED LIMA BEANS. 

It is well known that much of the sweetness of lima 
beans is lost in the water that is drained from them after 
boiling. This flavor will all be saved by cooking them as 
follows : Place the beans in a double boiler, or in a tin 
pail set in a kettle of water. Cover them with milk, 
close tightly the vessel containing the beans, and boil the 
water in the under vessel for one hour. The milk will be 
found deliciously strong of the bean flavoring. Season 
with salt, butter and pepper, and serve. If the boiler is 
tightly covered, the milk will not be too much reduced. 

STRING BEANS. 

Break off a little from each end of the pods to remove 
the strings, break the pods into inch lengths, and place 
them in a kettle with just enough water to cover. Add 
half a dozen strips of salt pork, cover the kettle, and 
cook slowly for one hour. The water by this time should 
be near-ly all evaporated. Season with a little salt and 
pepper, and serve, the strips of pork being also placed 
in the dish. Serve a piece of the pork with the beans to 
each person at table. 

STRING BEANS IN MILK. 

After removing the strings, boil the beans in plenty of 
salted water for one hour. Drain, add milk to nearly 
cover them, and heat. When boiling, stir into the milk 



26o THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

a little flour made into a paste with a small quantity of 
cold milk, using enough flour to make the milk creamy. 
Boil two minutes, stirring all of the time ; add butter, salt 
and pepper to taste, and serve hot. 

BAKED BEANS. (See pages 197, 198.) 
BEAN SOUP. (See page 92.) 

BEETS. 

Wash the beets carefully, but do not cut or scrape 
them nor remove any of the small roots at the bottom. 
If the skin is broken before cooking the flavor and color 
are much impaired by the water. Some cooks even rec- 
ommend boiling them without being washed at all, and 
this pl-an may be followed by those who care to go to that 
extreme. Boil the beets in plenty of water. Young beets 
will cook tender in one hour, but through the winter 
months four hours will be found none too long. When 
tender, throw the beets into a pan of cold water, and 
quickly rub off the skin wilh the hands ; then slice them, 
add salt and pepper and plenty of butter, and serve hot. 
Should the beets be tough and withered, soak them for 
twenty-four hours in plenty of cold water before trying to 
cook them ; then boil them four or six hours very slowly. 
In the late winter when old beets are alone to be had, 
this will be the only way in which they can be boiled 
tender, and even this will sometimes fail. The cold beets 
left over may be covered with vinegar and used as pickles. 

BRUSSELS-SPROUTS. 

Pick off the dead leaves from the sprouts, soak the 
latter in cold water for half an hour, wash them, and put 



VEGETABLES. 26 \ 

them on the fire in plenty of slightly salted boiling water. 
Boil until tender, thirty minutes being usually long enough. 
Drain off the water, and place the sprouts in a frying-pan, 
adding for every quart of them when uncooked, 

Three table-spoonfuls ^of butter. 
One table-spoonful of salt. 
One tea-spoonful of sugar. 
One tea-spoonful of flour. 
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Shake the pan over the fire until the sprouts become 
slightly colored ; then turn them into a warm dish, and 
serve. Brussels sprouts may also be cooked in milk the 
same as string beans. (See page 259.) 

CABBAGE WITH CORNED BEEF. 

Cut the cabbage, if large, into quarters, and soak it 
one hour in cold water. Add it to the boiling corned 
beef an hour and a quarter before serving-time, and let 
both boil very slowly. When tender, lift out the cabbage 
with a skimmer into a colander, to drain; remove the 
stump of the cabbage, and with a knife slightly chop the 
leaves. Add pepper, and salt also if the beef is not too 
salt. Press out all the water possible from the cabbage, 
and serve on a w^arm dish or around the corned beef, as 
may be desired. 

CABBAGE IN MILK. 

Chop the cabbage fine, having soaked it for one hour 
before chopping. Boil until tender in plenty of water, 
usually forty-five minutes if the boiling is slow. Drain 
well, cover with milk, and when hot, thicken to a cream 



262 THE FA TTERN COOK- BOOK. 

with a little flour rubbed to a smooth paste with a small 
spoonful of butter. Boil one minute, stirring well; add 
salt and pepper, and serve. This is the most delicate 
way of cooking cabbage. 

CABBAGE HOT SLAW. 

Chop the cabbage fine, after soaking it one hour in cold 
water; and place it in an iron kettle with a cupful of vine- 
gar. Cover the kettle and set it where the cabbage will 
slowly stew for two hours, stirring often, and adding a 
little more vinegar as that in the kettle evaporates, but 
keeping only enough moisture in the kettle to keep the 
cabbage from burning. Should the vinegar be very 
strong, weaken it with a little water. When the cabbage 
is tender, add a little butter, salt and pepper, and serve 
hot. The slaw, when cooked, should be of a delicate pink- 
ish shade. It requires constant attention while cooking. 

CABBAGE SALAD. (See Salads.) 

CARROTS. 

Scrape and wash the carrots, and cut them in slices. 
Boil them one hour in plenty of water; then drain off all 
but half a cupful of the water, and add to the carrots one 
tea-spoonful of sugar, and one of salt. Boil rapidly until 
the water is all evaporated. Cover the carrots with milk, 
and thicken this to a cream with a little flour wet to a 
smooth paste with cold milk. Add butter, salt and pep- 
per to taste, and serve hot. 

Carrots may also be cooked the same as beets, adding 
butter, salt and pepper after draining off the water, and 
serving them after heating thoroughly. Or they may 



VEGETABLES. 26^ 

be boiled whole with corned beef, and served as a garnish 
around the meat. It improves their appearance to cut 
them into half-inch slices and then shape them with 
the tin cutters. 

BOILED CAULIFLOWER. 

Remove the outer green leaves, cut off the stem close 
to the flower, and wash well. Put the cauliflower head 
downward in cold water, and let it soak for an hour, to 
draw out any insects that may be there and to freshen the 
flowers. Unless very large, do not cut it ; but if it must 
be cut, quarter it neatly. Tie it in a piece of coarse 
tarleton or cheese-cloth to prevent breaking, and place it 
in a granite-ware stew-pan or a porcelain-lined kettle, 
with plenty of slightly salted, boiling water. Cover, and 
simmer half an hour, if the vegetable is of moderate 
size. When done, remove any scum that may have 
arisen, lift the cauliflower carefully from the water, drain 
well, take it from the cloth, and place it stem downward 
in the serving dish. Pour over it a sauce made of 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 
One table-spoonful of flour. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
One scanty phit of milk. 

Beat the butter and flour to a cream, and pour over them 
I he boiling milk. Add the salt, and boil for five minutes, 
stirring all the time. Sprinkle half a tea-spoonful of 
salt over the cauliflower before pouring on the sauce. 

BAKED CAULIFLOWER. 

Boil the vegetable tender as directed in the preceding 
recipe, drain well, remove it from the cloth, and tear the 



264 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

clusters or flowers from the stem. Place a layer of these 
clusters in a baking dish. Have ready a sauce made of 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 
One table-spoonful of flour. 
One pint of milk. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 

Heat the butter, add the flour, and when the mixture 
froths and is smooth, add the milk and seasoning. 
Moisten the layer of cauliflower in the baking-dish with a 
few spoonfuls of this sauce, and sprinkle ove'r it some grated 
cheese, using the latter according to taste. Then arrange 
another layer of the cauliflower, add the rest of the sauce, 
and sprinkle thickly with cheese and bread crumbs. 
The dish will require about half a pint of crumbs and two 
table-spoonfuls of cheese, or more, if a strong flavor is 
desired. Bake twenty minutes, and serve in the same 
dish. 

CORN. 

GREEN CORN, BOILED. 

The time needed to cook corn varies with its age and 
freshness. Tender corn should cook in fifteen minutes, 
merely simmering for that length of time ; but old corn 
often requires half an hour. Corn may be boiled either 
with or without the husk. If without the husk, strip off 
all of this outer covering, and remove every particle of 
the silk. If the husk is to be left on, strip off the outer 
leaves, turn back the innermost covering of two or three 
leaves, pick off all the silk, and re-cover the ear with the 
leaves turned back, tying it at the top with a bit of 
thread. Place the corn in a stew-pan, and cover it with 



VEGETABLES. 265 

boiling water, but do not add salt, as this would harden the 
corn. When done, remove it from the fire, spread a nap- 
kin on a flat dish, and lay the corn upon it, drawing the 
ends of the napkin up so as to cover the corn ; serve at 
once. When boiled in the husk, drain the corn well 
before serving, and break each cob from the stem ; send 
to the table in the napkin, but do not remove the husks. 

HOW TO EAT GREEN CORN. 

Score every row of kernel with a sharp knife ; then 
butter the corn lightly, dust it with salt, and with the 
teeth press out the center of the grains, leaving the hulls 
on the cob. It is usually considered inelegant to eat 
corn from the cob, but this method is the least trouble- 
some. 

GREEN CORN, STEWED. 

This will be found a satisfactory way of cooking corn 
that is a little past its prime or is withered. Husk, and 
boil the corn for ten minutes. As soon as it has cooled 
enough to handle, draw a sharp knife dowai each row of 
kernels, press the pulp from the hulls with the back of 
the knife, place it in a stew-pan, and to every pint add 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-half tea-spoonful of sugar. * 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

Three-quarters cupful of cream or milk. 

Let the whole simmer for ten minutes, and serve very 
hot. Any corn that may be left over from "some other 
meal may be cut from the cob and cooked in this way. 



266 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

CANNED CORN. 

Place a pint of corn in a stew-pan, and add seasoning 
and milk the same as given in the preceding recipe, 
omitting the butter. Simmer ten minutes, add the butter, 
and serve. 

CORN PUDDING. 

One dozen large ears of corn. 

Four eggs. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One pint of milk. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One table-spoonful of sugar. 

Grate the corn from the cob. Beat the whites and yolks 
of the eggs separately ; add the yolks to the corn, then 
the melted butter, then the milk, sugar and salt, and 
lastly the beaten whites, stirring continually. Bake very 
slowly for an hour and a-half, covering the dish until the 
last twenty minutes, when the cover should be removed 
and the pudding browned nicely. Serve with roast meat 
of any kind. This can also be made of canned corn, 
which must be chopped very fine before using. 

SUCCOTASH. 

This is made of green corn and Lima beans, although 
string or butter beans may be used. Cut the corn care- 
fully from the cob, and to each pint allow 

One pint of Lima beans. 
One-half pint of cream or milk. 
One table-spoonful of butter. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 



VEGETABLES, 267 

Cover the beans with boiling water, and cook for thirty 
minutes. Drain off the water, add the corn and the milk 
or cream, and stew slowly for fifteen minutes, or longer, 
if the corn is old ; then add the seasoning, and serve. 
In winter, if dried corn and beans are used, soak both 
separately over night. In the morning cover the beans 
with fresh water, and boil them very gently for two hours. 
Do not drain the water from the corn, but set the pan 
containing it on the back of the range where it will be 
well warmed without boiling, while the beans are cooking. 
When the beans are tender, drain and add them to 
the corn ; both should then have only water enough to 
about cover them. Cook slowly for twenty minutes, and 
drain off some of the water until there is not more than 
two-thirds of a cupful left ; then add the milk and season- 
ing. Succotash may also be made of canned corn and 
beans. 

CORN AND TOMATOES, STEWED. 

Take equal quantities of green corn cut from the cob 
and of sliced, peeled tomatoes, and stew them for half an 
hour. Season with pepper, salt and butter, stew fifteen 
minutes longer, and serve hot. 

CORN AND TOMATOES, BAKED. 

Use equal quantities of cooked corn cut from the cob, 
and raw tomatoes peeled and sliced, adding to a pint of 
each 

One table-spoonful of salt. 
Three table-spoonfuls of butter. 
One-half pint of bread-crumbs. 
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper. 
One tea-spoonful of sugar. 



268 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Mix the seasoning with the corn and tomatoes, and pour 
all into a baking dish. Spread the crumbs over the top, 
dot them with the butter, and bake half an hour. This 
is a satisfactory way of utilizing corn that has been left 
over from dinner. 

CORN SALAD OR FetticUS. 

This is used as a salad, being very delicate when so 
prepared ; or it may be washed and cooked the same as 
spinach, which it much resembles. 

CORN FRITTERS, NO. I. 

One pint of grated corn. 

One egg. 

One-half cupful of milk. 

One tea-spoonful of melted butter. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Flour to thicken. 

Grate the corn from the cob. Beat the egg well, and 
add it to the corn, and also the milk, melted butter, salt 
and pepper. Stir the baking powder into a little of the 
flour, and add it to the corn, stirring in enough flour to 
make a rather thick batter. The fritters are fried upon a 
griddle like batter-cakes, a table-spoonful of the batter 
being used for each fritter. Canned corn may be used 
when the fresh is not to be had. Chop this corn very 
fine, and add two-thirds of a cupful of milk to each pint 
used, the quantity of milk being thus slightly increased, 
because the canned corn is not so moist as the fresh. 
The above-mentioned quantities are sufficient for six 
persons. Corn fritters are very nice served for luncheon. 



VEGETABLES. 269 

CORN FRITTERS, NO. 2. 

One can of corn. 

One-half cupful of milk. 

One table-spoonful of sugar. 

One table-spoonful of melted butter. 

Two table-spoonfuls of flour. 

Two eggs. 

Salt to taste. 

Chop the corn as fine as pulp, and add the rest of the 
ingredients to it. Should there be but one egg at hand, 
much more flour should be used to make the batter stiff 
enough. Fry as griddle-cakes, and serve hot. 

CELERY. 

Wash and scrape the stalks, and only use for the table 
that which is white or but slightly green. Cut off the 
green leaves, retaining the blanched ones that grow 
nearest the heart. Lay the celery in cold water for one 
hour before serving, and send it to table on a low, flat 
dish, the high celery glasses being out of date. For the 
method of freshening celery, see the general remarks on 
vegetables on page 239. The parts not used on the 
table may be served as a salad or may be cooked. 

STEWED CELERY. 

Wash the stalks clean, cut them into inch-long pieces, 
and soak an hour in cold water. Drain, and place 
the celery in a stew-pan, with boiling water to cover ; 
and let it simmer slowly half an hour, by which 
time the water should be so reduced as to measure 
not quite half a cupful. Add a cupful of cream or 
milk, and when the liquid boils, thicken it to a cream 



270 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

with a little flour rubbed smooth in a table-spoonful of 
butter. Add salt and pepper, and serve. 

STEWED CELERY WITH BROWN SAUCE. 

Boil the celery as directed in the preceding recipe. 
Heat a table-spoonful of butter in a frying-pan, and 
when of a dark brown add a table-spoonful of flour. 
Stir until the paste is smooth and quite dark. Then 
drain the celery, and add to the butter and flour half a 
pint of the water in which it was boiled. When the 
sauce boils, season it with salt and pepper, pour over 
the celery, and serve. 

CUCUMBERS. 

CUCUMBERS, RAW. 

Pare the cucumbers neatly from end to end, and lay 
them in ice-water for an hour ; then wipe them dry on a" 
towel, and slice thinly. Serve plainly at table, allow- 
ing each person to season to taste with salt, pepper, 
oil and vinegar. Or each cucumber may be cut in four 
pieces from end to end, and these may be served upon a 
long dish with cracked ice. When prepared in this way, 
they are dipped in salt and pepper and eaten from the 
fingers. 

STEWED CUCUMBERS. 

Pare and quarter the cucumbers and remove the seeds. 
Place a table-spoonful of butter in a frying-pan, add 
a small onion cut in slices, and fry until brown ; then 
put in the cucumbers, and fry them until of a light 
brown. Remove them from the pan, and add to the 
gravy a table-spoonful of flour, mixing until smooth. 



VEGETABLES. 2/1 

Pour in half a pint of stock or water, stirring continually, 
and add salt and pepper to taste. Now return the 
cucumbers to the pan and stew gently for twenty min- 
utes. Serve on toasted bread. 

FRIED CUCUMBERS. 

Pare the vegetables, and lay them in ice-water half 
an hour. Cut them into lengthwise slices nearly half 
an inch thick, and lay them in ice-water fifteen minutes 
longer. Wipe each piece dry, sprinkle with salt and 
pepper, dredge with flour, and fry to a delicate brown 
in lard or sw^eet drippings. Many declare this to be the 
only wholesome method of preparing cucumbers. 

STUFFED CUCUMBERS. (aN Eutf'ee.) 

Six good-sized cucumbers. 

One-half cupful of chopped veal. 

Four table-spoonfuls of milk. 

Three table-spoonful of bread-crumbs. 

One egg. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-eighth tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One-eighth tea-spoonful of thyme. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of onion juice. 

One tea-spoonful of butter. 

One and a-half pint of chicken or veal stock. 

Pare the cucumbers lightly, cut off the ends, and cut 
each cucumber in two pieces crosswise. Remove the 
seeds with an apple corer, lay the cucumbers in slightly 
salted water, and set them in a cool place. Chop the 
veal fine. Place the milk and bread-crumbs in a sauce- 
pan, and cook slowly ten minutes, or until a smooth 
paste is formed. Add to this the rest of the ingredients. 



2^2 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

and mix well with tlie veal. Take the cucumbers from 
the water, wipe them dry, and fill them with the mixture, 
packing it solidly. Lay them in a stew-pan, and pour 
over them the chicken or veal stock, or the same quantity 
of water if there is no stock, adding a table-spoonful of 
butter in case water is used. Add a bay-leaf also, and 
salt and* pepper to taste, and let the cucumbers simmer 
forty-five minutes. When it is time to serve, place the 
cucumbers on thin strips of toast, and pour over them a 
sauce made of the following ingredients : 

Three table-spoonfuls of butter. 

One table-spoonful of flour. 

One table-spoonful of lemon juice. 

One cupful of veal or chicken stock. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One slice of carrot. 

One slice of onion. 

One sprig of parsley. 

One clove. 

One bay-leaf. 

A grating of nutmeg. 

Simmer all these together twenty minutes, adding the 
lemon-juice last. Strain the sauce, pour it over the 
cucumbers, and serve. If there is no stock, use in its 
place the liquid in which the cucumbers were boiled. 

DANDELIONS. 

These are not fit to eat after they blossom, as they 
then become bitter and stringy. Cut off the roots, pick 
the greens over carefully, and wash them well in several 
waters. Place them in a kettle, cover with boiling, 



VEGETABLES. 2/3 

salted water, and boil slowl)^ for an hour. When done, 
lift them into a colander, press them to drain out all 
the water, and chop coarsely ; then add a table-spoon- 
ful of butter, and salt and pepper to taste, and serve. 
Dandelions are sometimes boiled with corned beef, the 
same as cabbage. They are eaten with a little vinegar 
sprinkled on each dishful. 

EGG-PLANT. 

Cut the egg-plant in slices a-quarter of an inch thick. 
Pare the slices, and lay them in very strong salt water, 
placing a plate on top to keep them under the brine ; 
and let them soak thus at least two hours. Drain, 
wipe each slice dry, dip it in beaten egg and then in 
cracker-crumbs seasoned with salt and pepper, and fry in 
hot lard until well done and nicely browned. Egg-plant 
belongs to the same family as potatoes and tobacco, all 
of which contain a bitter juice, more or less poisonous. 
This should be soaked out of the plant before using, or 
it will be a decided failure. There is no vegetable in 
the preparation of which the cook is less certain of suc- 
cess than egg-plant, for often after every precaution has 
been taken it will be too bitter to be eaten. Another 
way of removing this bitterness is to pour boiling salted 
water on the slices and let them remain in it an hour 
before frying. Egg-plants should be fresh and glossy- 
looking when purchased, else there can be no possible 
chance of their success in whatever way they may be 
cooked. 

STUFFED EGG-PLANT. 

Cut the plant in two parts lengthwise, and scoop out 
the meat, leaving the rind about half an inch thick, that 
i8 



2/4 ^^^^ ^^ TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

the shape may be firm. Chop the pulp fine, season it 
with salt and pepper and a table-spoonful of butter, and 
cook in a frying-pan for ten minutes, stirring well ; then 
add a scanty half-cupful of water and a cupful of bread- 
crumbs. Sprinkle the interior of the shells with salt and 
pepper, and fill them with the mixture. Spread a cupful 
of crumbs on the surface of the mixture, place the two 
pieces of plant in a baking-dish or deep pan, and pour 
enough hot water into the pan to come half-way up the 
sides of the plant. Bake an hour, and serve hot on a 
napkin. The egg-plant will be found very delicate, and 
it may be served either as a vegetable or an entree. 

ENDIVE. 

This vegetable is used as a winter salad and is gener- 
ally dressed with celery or boiled beets, and garnished 
with hard boiled eggs and a salad dressing poured over 
all. It may also be cooked as in the following recipe. 

CREAMED ENDIVE. 

Wash the endive carefully, and pick off the outer green 
leaves, leaving only the white part. Boil until tender, 
drain well, return it to the kettle, and nearly cover with 
milk. When the milk boils, thicken it with a little flour 
stirred to a paste with a small quantity of cold milk, 
season with butter, salt and pepper, and serve. 

KALE. 

This is cooked and served the same as spinach ; or it 
may be tied in a bundle, boiled like asparagus and 
served on toast with a generous allowance of butter. It 
may also be boiled in a bundle and drained well, after 



VEGETABLES. 2/5 

which milk will be added and thickened to a cream with 
a little flour, the whole being seasoned with butter, salt 
and pepper. 

♦• 

LENTILS, FRIED, ^■ 

Wash and soak over night a pint of lentils. In the 
morning drain, cover them with warm water in which has 
been placed half a tea-spoonful of soda, and bring them 
quickly to a boil. Boil gently for an hour, drain, cover 
them again with fresh boiling soft water, and boil gently 
until tender, this generally requiring an hour and a-half 
longer. Test by mashing a lentil now and then , if it 
crushes quickly, they are done, and should then be 
drained in a colander. Place two table spoonfuls of but- 
ter in a frying-pan, and when it is melted, add the lentils, 
with salt and pepper to season ; stir them over the fire 
for fifteen minutes, and serve. 

MACARONI AND SPAGHETTI. 

Macaroni is very valuable as an article of food, for it 
contains a larger proportion of glutin than bread — in fact, 
it is the bread of the Italian laborer. In this country it 
is not much used by the working classes, but for no good 
reason, since it is not expensive and is most easily pre- 
pared. In selecting macaroni that which is of a yellow- 
ish tint is to be preferred to the white. 

BAKED .MACARONI, WITH CHEESE, 

Do not wash the macaroni. Break it into inch-lengths. 
and throw it into boiling, salted water. Stir frequently to 
prevent it settling to the bottom, and boil slowly. Mac- 
aroni does not nearlv reach its full size when boiled 



2/6 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

rapidly; hence forty-five minutes is none too long to 
allow for its cooking. Turn it when done into a colander, 
and drain well. Arrange a layer of macaroni in the 
bottom of a pudding-dish, upon it strew some rich cheese 
(the Parmesan is generally used), and scatter over this 
some bits of butter. Add a sprinkling of salt and 
pepper, then another layer of macaroni and cheese ; and 
fill the dish in this order, having macaroni at the top, 
buttered well, but without the cheese. Add a few spoon- 
fuls of milk, and bake slowly until of a golden-brown hue, 
half an hour being usually sufficient. Serve in the dish 
in which it was baked. 

STEWED MACARONI. 

Boil the macaroni until soft, throw it into a colander, 
and drain well ; then return it to the kettle, nearly cover 
with milk, and season with butter, salt and pepper to 
taste. Let all boil together for three minutes, and serve. 

MACARONI AND TOMATOES. 

One-quarter pound of spaghetti. 
One-half pint of stewed tomatoes. 
One table-spoonful of flour. 
One table-spoonful of butter. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 

Take a handful of the long sticks, put the ends into 
boiling, salted water, and as they soften, bend and coil 
them in the water without breaking. Boil rather 
briskly until done, drain in a colander, and stand the 
colander in a pan of cold water for fifteen minutes. This 
blanches the spaghetti. Place the butter in a frying-pan, 
and when hot, add the flour and mix until smooth. 



VEGETABLES. 277. 

Then pour in tlie strained tomatoes, and when they boil, 
add the spaghetti, boil up once, and serve without cutting. 

MUSHROOMS. 

During the Summer and Autumn, and more especially 
in September and October, mushrooms abound in the 
fields in many parts of the country ; and the wild mush- 
rooms are decidedly superior to the cultivated variety. 
It is highly important to be able to distinguish those which 
are edible from the poisonous ones' Those which may 
be eaten appear in old sod in a clear, open, sunny place 
and spring up after low-lying fogs and heavy dews. Low, 
damp and shady spots and around the stumps of decayed 
trees are the places to shun in gathering mushrooms. 
They are at first very small and supported on a short 
foot-stalk; and at this stage are called "button" mush- 
rooms. Their growth is rapid. In an hour the mush- 
room spreads like an umbrella and shows the gills 
underneath, which should be of a pale salmon color. In 
another hour this pretty color has changed to a dark 
brown. The edible mushroom may be easily pulled, and 
it has an agreeable smell, while the poisonous variety 
invariably has a putrid, rank odor and has yellow or 
white gills. It is said that silver will turn black when 
used to stir mushrooms that have even one poisonous 
fungus among them. 

To prepare mushrooms for cooking : cut off the stalks 
and throw them away, unless they are very solid and 
tender, when they may be cooked. Pare the cups and 
drop them into a bowl of water, into which has been 
squeezed the juice of half a lemon ; this will keep the 
mushrooms from darkening. 



278 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

STEWED MUSHROOMS. 

One quart of cleaned mushrooms. 
Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 
One table-spoonful of flour. 
One tea-spoonful of salt. 
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 
One-half cupful of water. 

Rub the flour to a smooth paste in the water. Put the 
mushrooms, flour and seasoning together in a stew-pan, 
and boil gently for five minutes, stirring constantly. 
Serve very hot. When milk or cream is preferred in the 
cooking, use but half the quantity of water, adding a cup- 
ful of milk; and after boiling five minutes, serve as 
above. If cream is used, allow but half the quantity of 
butter, as the mushrooms are very rich. 

SIMPLE STEV/ OF MUSHROOMS. 

Clean a pint of mushrooms, cut them in rather small 
pieces, and put them in a stew-pan with a table-spoon- 
ful of butter and a little salt and pepper ; let them sim- 
mer ten minutes, and serve. Wild mushrooms are de- 
licious cooked in this way. 

BAKED MUSHROOMS. 

Choose the large mushrooms, but if the round " but- 
ton " mushrooms are obtainable, they are much to be pre- 
ferred. Peel them, cut off the stalks close to the top, 
and do not wash them unless they are soiled. Place 
them upside down on a pie-dish, sprinkle with salt 
and jDepper, and put a tiny bit of butter in each upturned 
cup. Bake fifteen minutes in a quick oven, basting twice 



VEGETABLES. 279 

with a little melted butter ; and serve hot, pouring over 
them whatever juice may be on the dish. 

ROASTED MUSHROOMS. 

Place the mushrooms in the tin, as directed in the pre- 
ceding recipe, using only those that have not at all lost 
their plumpness and erectness and are truly little cups. 
Set the pan on the top of the stove, and cook for five min- 
utes in a moderate heat. The cups will be filled with 
their own liquor and the gravy from the seasoning. 
Serve while very hot. 

TO STEW CANNED MUSHROOMS. 

In preparing canned mushrooms do not boil them, as 
they are already cooked and the second cooking toughens 
them. To a can of mushrooms allow 

One egg (yolk only). 
One-half pint of milk. 
One table-spoonful of butter. 
One table-spoonful of flour. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 

Put the butter in the stew-pan, and when hot, add the 
flour, mix until smooth, and add the milk. Stir contin- 
ually until the liquid boils ; then add the mushrooms, salt 
and pepper, and stir until well heated. Take from the 
fire, add the beaten yolk, stir it well in, and serve. 

OKRA. 

The pods of okra are so sticky that especial care is 
needed to avoid breaking them while cleaning. 
They should be well washed before the stems are re- 



280 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

moved ; then place them in boiling salted water sufficient 
to cover, and boil until tender. They should boil very 
slowly, as rapid boiling will break them in pieces. It re- 
quires an hour or more to cook this vegetable. When 
tender, throw the okra into a colander, and when drained, 
lay it in a dish. Heat together two table-spoonfuls of 
butter, a table-spoonful of vinegar and a little salt and 
pepper; mix v^ell, and pour the sauce over the okra in 
the dish. Okra is also boiled with strips of salt pork, the 
same as string beans ; or it may be stewed vi^ith tomatoes, 
the same as macaroni. 

ONIONS. 

BAKED ONIONS, NO. I. 

The large Spanish onions are far milder and more deli- 
cate than the usual winter varieties. Wash the onions 
clean, trim the bottoms but do not peel, and boil for an 
hour in slightly salted, boiling water. If the onions are 
desired very mild, change the water twice during the 
time, replenishing with more boiling water. Having 
drained them well, take each onion separately, wipe it 
dry and roll in a square of tissue or buttered paper, 
twisting the paper at the top to keep it closed. Place 
the onions in a baking-pan, and bake an hour in a slow 
oven. When done, remove the papers, peel the onions 
and place them in the serving dish ; pour melted butter 
over them, dust with salt and pepper, and serve. 

PAKED ONIONS, NO. 2. 

Boil as directed in the preceding recipe, without 
peeling, and bake an hour without enclosing them in 
papers, but basting frequently with butter. When done, 



VEGETABLES. 28 1 

take them up carefully, peel, and lay them in the 
serving dish, which should be placed where it will keep 
warm. Set the pan upon the top of the stove, add to it a 
cupful of milk, and, when this boils, stir in a table-spoon- 
ful of flour wet with a little cold milk. When the whole 
is creamy, add salt and pepper, and more butter, if de- 
sired; pour the sauce over the onions, and serve. 

CREAMED ONIONS. 

Peel the onions, and boil for an hour in plenty of salted 
water. Drain well and cut each onion into four, six or 
any desired number of pieces, over which pour a cream 
sauce made of 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 
One table-spoonful of flour. 
One pint of milk. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 

Rub the butter and flour to a cream ; heat the milk, 
and when it boils, add the butter and flour. Stir the 
sauce until of a creamy consistency, and flavor with salt 
and pepper. 

STEWED ONIONS. 

Boil the onions as directed in the preceding recipe, 
take them up carefully and drain, keeping them as nearly 
whole as possible. Pour over them two table-spoonfuls 
of melted butter, dust with a little salt and pepper, and 
serve very hot. 

FRIED PARSNIPS. 

Scrape the parsnips, and boil them gently until tender, 
usuallv an hour. Drain, and when cold, cut them in 



282 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

long, thin slices about a-tliird of an inch thick, and sea- 
son each slice with salt and pepper; dip the slices in 
melted butter and then in flour, and fry in hot lard until 
both sides are thoroughly browned. Drain well, and 
serve. 

BOILED PARSNIPS. 

Scrape the parsnips, and boil them until tender. Drain 
and cut them in small pieces. Place these in the kettle 
or stew-pan in which the parsnips were boiled, add 
enough milk to cover, and when the milk boils, thicken 
it slightly with a little flour wet to a smooth paste with 
cold milk. When the liquid is like cream, add butter, 
salt and pepper, and serve hot. 

PARSNIP FRITTERS. 

Three large parsnips. 

Three table-spoonfuls of flour. 

One table-spoonful of butter (melted). 

Two eggs. 

One cupful of milk. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Boil the parsnips until tender, grate fine or mash 
them well, and pick out all the fibrous parts. Beat the 
eggs light, and stir them into the parsnips, beating hard 
until the whole is well mixed. Then add the butter, 
which should be measured after it is melted, and then 
the milk, salt and flour. Fry like doughnuts or on a 
griddle. 

GREEN PEAS. 

Peas are fresh when the pods are green and crisp; 
and, like corn, they lose their sweetness almost as soon 



VEGETABLES. 283 

as picked. If stale or wilted, they may be somewhat 
freshened by being thrown into cold water as soon as 
shelled and allowed to remain in it at least an hour 
before cooking ; and when boiling, a tea-spoonful of 
sugar may be added to the water to restore their sweet- 
ness. Fresh peas should not be shelled until just before 
they are needed for cooking. Look them over carefully 
after shelling, taking out any tendrils that may have got- 
ten in with them ; place them in a kettle with just suffi- 
cient boiling salted water to cover, and boil slowly until 
tender. Young peas will cook in twenty minutes, but 
those that are more mature require twice that time. The 
water should not be drained from them when done; if 
nicely apportioned, there will be, when the cooking is 
finished, only enough to serve with the peas. Add butter, 
salt and pepper, and serve hot. 

FRENCH PEAS. 

Empty a can of French peas into a colander, and pour 
cold w^ater through them. Then place the peas in a 
rather large-bottomed stew-pan, and add 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

Four table-spoonfuls of stock or water. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. • 

One tea-spoonful of sugar. 

Cook rapidly, with the pan uncovered, until the peas 
have absorbed all the liquid ; and serve at once. 
Fresh peas may also be finished in this way after they 
have been boiled and drained. 

All canned peas should have the liquor drained from 
them and fresh water added before being placed over the 



284 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

fire, as there is a peculiarl}' disagreeable taste 'about the 
peas when cooked with the juices in the can. 

PEA FRITTERS. 

One pint of green peas. 

One tea-spoonful of butter. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Two eggs. 

One cupful of milk. 

One-half cupful of flour. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

Cook the peas until tender, drain and mash them, and 
while still hot add the butter, salt and pepper. When 
cold, add the beaten eggs, the milk, and the flour with 
the baking powder stirred into it. Stir all well, and fry 
like griddle-cakes. These fritters are delicious for break- 
fast. The peas may be cooked and seasoned the day 
before ; or those left from a previous dinner may be 
boiled until a little more tender and utilized as above. 

BOILED RICE. 

Wash thoroughly a cupful of rice, put it into a gran- 
ite-ware stew-pan or kettle, and pour over it three quarts 
of boiling water, adding a tea-spoonful of salt to the 
water. Boil without covering the kettle ; the time of 
boiling varies with the kind of rice, but fifteen minutes 
is generally sufficient. Test the rice by pressing a few 
grains between the fingers ; if soft, the rice has cooked 
sufficiently and may then be turned into a colander to 
drain, being shaken to remove all the water possible. 
Toss the rice with a fork to the sides of the colander to 



VEGETABLES. 285 

facilitate tlie drying, set the colander on a tin dish or pie- 
plate, and stand it in the oven to dry, leaving the oven- 
door open. Or the colander may be placed on the back 
of the range in a warm place, if the oven is in use. The 
rice should dry in twenty minutes, and every grain should 
be separate, tender, white and dry. It is eaten with 
gravy the same as potatoes. To be a success, boiled 
rice (which many housekeepers do not prepare properly) 
should be taken from the water when it is just cooked 
and not be allowed one minute's boiling after it has 
reached that point. If boiled too long, it simply cannot 
be dried off and is a mushy, soggy and most unappetizing 
mess. 

BAKED RICE. 

Some housekeepers bake rice, when it is to be served as 
a vegetable. Wash a cupful of rice, place it in a bak- 
ing-dish with a quart of water and a tea-spoonful of salt, 
and bake very slowly from an hour and a half to nearly 
two hours. Serve in the same dish, and eat with meat 
gravy poured over the rice. These rice dishes are partic- 
ularly nice when there is a roast that furnishes a rich 
gravy, such as beef or veal. 

CURRY OF RICE. 

This dish is appropriate with any kind of fish or meat 
that has been prepared with a sauce. For a family of six 
persons, allow 

One cupful of rice. 

Two and a-half cupfuls of boiling water. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of salt, 



286 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of curry powder. 
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 
One tea-spoonful of minced onion. 

Wash the rice well, and soak it for two hours in fresh 
water; then drain. Place the butter and onion in a stew- 
pan, and cook them until the onion is yellow ; add the 
rice, and stir the whole over a hot hre for five minutes. 
Draw the pan out of the heat, season with the powder, 
salt and pepper, stir well, and pour in the boiling water. 
Cover the stew-pan, and boil rapidly for ten minutes, 
after which set it in a very slow heat, to cook for forty 
minutes, when the curry is ready to serve. 

SALSIFY, OR OYSTER PLANT. 

Wash the salsify with a rough cloth, place it in a 
kettle with plenty of boiling, salted water, and boil 
slowly until nearly done, which will be an hour. Drain, 
and when cool enough to handle, scrape off the dark 
skin on the outside. Cut the vegetable in slices, return 
it to the kettle, add hot water, iind let it simmer fifteen 
minutes. Drain again, add milk to nearly cover, and 
thicken the milk to a cream with a little flour stirred 
to a paste with cold milk. Add butter, salt and pepper 
to taste, and serve. Salsify prepared in this way will not 
turn dark, and it is much more easily scraped after being 
boiled than before. 

FRIED SALSIFY. 

Boil, scrape off the skin, cut in slices, and fry like pars- 
nips. 

Salsify fritters are made the same as parsnip fritters. 



VEGETABLES. 287 

SPINACH. 

Spinach requires very careful washing to rid it of the 
sand with which the leaves are so often filled. Pick the 
spinach apart, throwing out the decayed portions, and 
place it in a large panful of water. Wash the spinach 
well, and lay it in a second pan of water ; wash again 
and lay it back in the first pan, which has been refilled 
with clear water. Continue washing thus until all trace 
of sand has disappeared. Then boil the spinach half an 
hour in two cupfuls of boiling, salted water, turn it into a 
colander, and press out all the water possible. With a 
knife chop the spinach rather coarsely, leaving it in the 
colander for this cutting. Now return it to the kettle in 
which it was boiled, add a table-spoonful of butter, and 
salt and pepper to taste, and stir until very hot ; turn at 
once into the serving dish, shape the spinach into around 
mound, and lay on the top slices of hard boiled eggs. 
Serve while hot. 

SPINACH, WITH CREAM. 

Boil, drain and chop the spinach as directed above 
and make the following sauce : 

Three table-spoonfuls of butter. 
Two table-spoonfuls of flour. 
One cupful of cream or milk. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 

Heat the butter, add the flour, and stir until the mix- 
ture is frothy. Add the chopped spinach, and cook for 
four minutes, stirring constantly. Next put in the cream, 
salt and pepper, cook three minutes, and serve on nicely 
toasted bread. 



288 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

SUMMER SQUASH, STEAMED. 

There are many varieties of this vegetable. Unless the 
squash is very tender, pare it thinly, cutting away little 
but the outer rind. Cut it in slices, and if the seeds are 
young and small, do not remove them ; if at all large, 
however, take them out, lay the squash on a plate, set it 
in a steamer over a kettle of boiling water, and steam until 
tender, usually from thirty to forty minutes. Take it 
from the steamer, drain off any water that may be upon 
it, place it in a stew-pan, and mash well. Add butter, 
salt and pepper to taste, and set the stew-pan on the back 
of the range for fifteen minutes, uncovered, for the squash 
to dry as much as possible, stirring it once or twice 
meanwhile. Re-heat, and serve. This kind of squash 
may also be boiled and served in the same way, but it is 
rather more wet when boiled than when steamed. 

FRIED SQUASH. 

Summer squash, which is often disappointing because 
of its sogginess, will be found very satisfactory when 
cooked in the following way : Peel the squash thinly, cut 
it into slices a-quarter of an inch thick, sprinkle each slice 
with salt and pepper, dip it in beaten egg and then in 
cracker-crumbs, and fry in a frying-pan until crisp and 
brown. Drain well, and serve. 

WINTER SQUASH. 

When the shell is hard, split the squash, remove the 
seeds, and steam or boil until soft. Scrape out the soft 
part of the squash, and to every pint add a table- 
spoonful of butter, half a tea-spoonful of sugar, and salt 



VEGETABLES. 289 

and pepper to taste. Winter squashes are also baked in 
the shell after the seeds have been removed. The soft 
part is then scraped out, mashed', seasoned as directed 
above, and served hot. 

STEWED TOMATOES. 

Pour boiling water on fresh tomatoes, and after they 
have remained covered a minute, take them from this 
water and plunge them into cold water. With a knife re- 
move the skins and the hard stem ends, and cut the toma- 
toes in pieces. Stew in a granite-ware or porcelain-lined 
kettle for thirty minutes ; then add to every quart a table- 
spoonful of butter, a tea-spoonful of salt and a-quarter of 
a tea-spoonful of pepper. Stew until of the desired thick- 
ness, and serve. Some prefer to add bread-crumbs or 
cracker-crumbs for thickening, and to boil but thirty min- 
utes. Canned tomatoes may be treated the same as fresh^ 
but they do not require to be boiled so long. 

ITALIAN TOMATO. 

Half can or a pint of tomatoes. 

One-third package of macaroni. 

Two table-spoonfuls of grated cheese. 

A little milk. 

Three slices of bacon. 

A small pinch of cinnamon. 

Salt and pepper. 

Cook the macaroni until tender, drain well, and nearly 
cover it with milk ; then add the cheese, and boil slowly 
until the cheese is dissolved. Fry the bacon in a frying- 
pan, pour off all but a large table-spoonful of the fat, add 
the tomatoes to the pan, and cook until they are soft. Sea- 
19 



290 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

son with salt and pepper to taste, and the bit of spice. 
Place the two dishes thus made together, pouring the 
tomato over the macaroni ; and bake until brown. This 
is sometimes served wdthout baking. 

SPANISH TOMATO. 

One small onion. 

One small green pepper. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

Six fresh tomatoes. 

Three crackers. 

Salt to taste. 

Chop the onion and the pepper very fine, peel and slice 
the tomatoes, and roll the crackers. Place the tomatoes 
in a baking dish, sprinkle ov'er them the salt, onion and 
pepper, add all the rolled cracker in one layer, and dot 
the top with the butter, cut in pieces. Bake slowly ai] 
hour. 

BAKED TOMATOES. 

Peel the tomatoes and cut them in slices a-quarter of 
an inch thick. Place a layer of tomatoes in a pudding 
dish, and sprinkle over them a little salt and pepper. 
Make a stuffing of 

One cupful of bread-crumbs. 
One table-spoonful of butter. 
One tea-spoonful of salt. 
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 
One tea-spoonful of sugar. 

Rub the butter into the crumbs, and add the salt, pep- 
per and sugar. Spread the mixture thickly upon the 
tomatoes, using all of it, and add another layer of toma- 
toes. Dot the top with pieces of butter, dust with pepper 



VEGETABLES. 29 1 

and a little sugar, strew with dry crumbs, and bake cov- 
ered for half an hour ; then remove the lid. and bake un- 
til brown. 

TURNIPS, MASHED. 

Peel the turnips, cut them in slices, and lay them in 
cold water for half an hour ; then place them in a stew- 
pan, pour boiling water over them, and boil slowly until 
tender, at least forty-five minutes being required. Drain 
well, and mash the turnips in the stew-pan ; stand the pan 
ten minutes uncovered on the back of the range to dry the 
turnips well, stirring them frequently. Season with but- 
ter, salt and pepper. Turnips require more pepper than 
any other vegetable. 

TURNIPS IN CREAM. 

Peel the turnips, cut them in small pieces, and boil 
until tender. Drain, add milk to nearly cover, and when 
the milk boils, thicken it to a cream with a little flour, 
stirred to a paste with cold milk. Add butter, salt and 
pepper, boil two minutes, and serve. 

STEWED TURNIPS. 

Peel and slice the turnips and cut them into cubes. 
Boil until tender, drain, and for three pints of turnips 
measured before cooking, allow 

One table-spoonful of sugar. 
Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 
One-half pint of stock. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
One-quarter tea spoonful of pepper. 

Cook rapidly until the stock has almost boiled awa}-, 
then serve. 



SALADS. 

" Mingle, mingle, mingle 
You that mingle may." 

Shakspere. 

Green vegetables that are eaten raw and dressed with 
oils, acids, salt and pepper are classed as salads. Pota- 
toes, string beans, beets, asparagus and many other 
vegetables which have been cooked are eaten cold with a 
salad dressing. Lobster, salmon and other kinds of 
cooked fish, eggs, chicken and delicate meats are com- 
bined with lettuce, cresses or celery and salad dressing, 
and furnish many appetizing dishes. 

A Frenchman thinks he cannot eat his dinner without 
a salad, and it would be well if all Americans had the 
same appreciation of this wholesome, refreshing and, at 
the same time, economical dish. 

There are two kinds of dressing which are in very gen- 
eral use, the mayonnaise and the French dressing. Epi- 
cures prefer the simple French dressing for salads served 
without fish or fowl ; and for chicken and fish salads and 
for some kinds of vegetables, such as tomatoes and cauli- 
flowers, they use the mayonnaise sauce. This choice of 
dressings is almost universal in London and Paris. In 
America we use the mayonnaise on all salads, which is 

292 



SALADS. 293 

really to be deplored. A simple salad with French 
dressing is, after all, the most satisfactory when one has 
been served with a heavy dinner before it. 

In giving recipes for salad-dressing it is almost impos- 
sible to mention exact quantities, especially when we con- 
sider the diversity of tastes. Delmonico, it is said, used 
but one yolk as a foundation for a quart of oil, with salt 
and cayenne for seasoning. In preparing dressing, use a 
silver or wooden fork, a large soup-plate, which should 
be very cold, the best oil and strong vinegar. A com- 
mon question is, "What can we use in place of oil?" 
Cream and melted butter may be used, but they by no 
means take the place of the oil. Green vegetables that 
should be crisp but have become wilted can be freshened 
by being laid in ice-water for at least an hour before 
using, and then dried carefully on a soft towel, care 
being taken not to bruise them. The dressing should 
never be mixed with any salad until it is needed to serve, 
and both salad and dressing should be served on as cold 
a dish as possible. 



SIMPLE FRENCH DRESSING. 

Three table-spoonfuls of olive oil. 
One table-spoonful of vinegar. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
One-quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper. 
One tea-spoonful of onion, scraped fine. 



Mix the pepper and salt together, add the oil and 
onion, and then pour in the vinegar. Mingle all well, 
and pour the dressing over the salad. 



294 ^-^^ ^^ TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

MAYONNAISE DRESSING, NO. I. 

To make a pint of dressing (which should be suffi- 
cient for twelve persons) use 

Two eggs (yolks). 
One tea-spoonful of mustard. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
One-half tea-spoonful of cayenne. 
Two table-spoonfuls of lemon juice. 
Two table-spoonfuls of vinegar. 
Twelve table-spoonfuls of olive oil. 

In order to make this dressing properly, it is necessary 
to have all the materials cold. The oil should stand in 
the refrigerator for at least an hour before being used. 
Place the yolks in a soup-plate, and beat them a 
minute with a silver fork ; then add the salt, pepper and 
mustard. Stir these well together, and commence to add 
the oil, a few drops at a time, stirring continuously. 
When the mixture becomes thick and ropy, the oil may 
be added more freely ; and when the liquid is at this 
stage, the vinegar should be added, half a tea-spoonful at 
a time. After the dressing has become very thick, the oil 
may be added, a table-spoonful at a time. When all the 
vinegar is added, commence to add the lemon juice in 
the same way, and stir continually until all the oil and 
lemon juice are added. Set the dressing on the ice for 
half an hour before using. 

If the taste of the oil is not liked, four table-spoonfuls 
of thick sweet cream, well whipped, may be stirred into 
the dressing at the last ; this tones down the taste of the 
oil. Thick whipped cream may be used in place of half 
the oil, if the latter is very disagreeable to those served. 



SALADS. 295 

In warm weather this dressing may be prepared in half 
the time by making it in a bowl set in a pan of cracked 
ice and having both eggs and oil as cold as possible. 

Should the dressing break or curdle, stir into it at once 
the well beaten yolk of an egg, which will render all 
smooth again. 

MAYONNAISE DRESSING, NO. 2. 

One egg-yolk (raw). 

One egg-yolk (cooked). 

One-half cupful of oil. 

Vinegar to thin. 

One-half tea-spoonful of made mustard. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One-half tea-spoonful of sugar. 

Six drops of Worcestershire sauce. 

Boil an egg ten minutes, and when cold, take out 
the yolk, place it in a bowl, and mash finely with the 
back of a silver spoon or with a wooden salad masher, 
which is like a diminutive potato masher. When the 
yolk is like powder, add the yolk of the raw egg, and stir 
until the mixture is smooth; then put in the sugar, salt, 
pepper, mustard and sauce. When the whole is well 
mixed, add the oil by degrees, stirring continually, and as 
soon as all is used, stir in sufficient strong vinegar to 
make the dressing the desired consistency. Place it on 
the ice for an hour at least before using. If the vinegar 
is not strong, the dressing will be too thin before it is 
acid enough. 

TO COLOR MAYONNAISE. 

Green. — Boil a double handful of spinach until ten- 



296 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

der; then drain, cool and squeeze it dry. Pound or 
mash the spinach well, adding a spoonful of the mayon- 
naise. Pass the whole through a fine sieve, and mix it 
with the dressing. Green peas, boiled and mashed, are 
also used for this purpose, but the color is not so deep as 
the other. 
' Red. — Pound the coral of a lobster, pass it through a 
fine sieve, and add it to the dressing. Dressing is often 
colored in this way when needed for lobster or fish salad. 

POTATO MAYONNAISE DRESSING. 

Two-thirds cupful of mashed potato. 
One egg (yolk only). 
Four table-spoonfuls of oil. 
One table-spoonful of vinegar. 
One-half tea-spoonful of made mustard. 
One tea-spoonful of salt. 
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 
Four drops of Worcestershire sauce. 

Mash the potato very smooth, and when it is cold, add 
the beaten yolk of the ^gg^ beating both together until 
light ; then put in the mustard, salt, pepper and sauce. 
When these are thoroughly mixed with the potato, add 
the oil a few drops at a time, until all but one table- 
spoonful has been used ; then add the vinegar and the 
balance of the oil. This dressing will keep a week in a 
cool place. 

COOKED CREAM SALAD DRESSING. 

Three eggs (yolks). 

One table-spoonful of thick, sweet cream. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One table-spoonful of lemon juice. 



SALADS. 297 

One salt-spoonful of celery salt. 
One-eighth salt-spoonful of pepper. 
One tea-spoonful of made mustard. 
One tea-spoonful of sugar. 

Beat the eggs lightly, add the cream, the butter, melted 
(but not to an oil), and the rest of the ingredients, stir- 
ring all the time, and beating well after each addition. 
Set the bowl containing the dressing in a saucepan of hot 
water, and stir rapidly until the dressing thickens. Set 
it on the ice to cool thoroughly before using. 

CREAM SALAD DRESSING. 

Two eggs (yolks), hard-boiled. 

One-half dessert-spoonful of made mustard. 

One table-spoonful of melted butter. 

Vinegar to thin. 

One salt-spoonful of salt. 

One-eighth salt-spoonful of pepper. 

Five drops of Worcestershire sauce. 

One-half tea-cupful of rich, sweet cream. 

Boil the eggs hard, cool them and take out the yolks. 
Mash the latter to a powder in a bowl, and add the salt, 
pepper, mustard, sauce and butter. Stir after each addi- 
tion until the whole is well mixed ; then pour in grad- 
ually the cream, and when the mixture is thick, add 
vinegar to thin to the desired consistency. Set the dress- 
ing on the ice one hour before using. 

SALAD DRESSING WITHOUT CREAM OR OIL. 

Two eggs (whites and yolks). 
One tea-spoonful of dry mustard. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
One large table-spoonful of butter. 



298 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

One tea-spooniul of sugar. 
One tea-spoonful of corn-starch. 
One-eighth tea-spoonful of pepper. 
One tea-cupful of vinegar. 

Beat the whites and the yolks separately and then t( 
gether, and add salt, sugar and the mustard. Rub the 
butter and the corn-starch to a cream, and put them in, 
stirring all well together. Place the bowl containing the 
mixture into a sauce-pan of hot water, and stir constantly 
until the dressing thickens. Remove from the fire, and 
gradually pour in the vinegar, stirring all the time. If 
the vinegar is too strong, dilute with a little water, but 
this quantity of dressing allows for only a cupful of 
liquid. 

COOKED SALAD DRESSING. 

Two table-spoonfuls of dry mustard. 

Two eggs. 

Two table-spoonfuls of oil or melted butter. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-half tea-spoonful of sugar. 

One-eighth tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Twelve table-spoonfuls of vinegar. 

Beat the yolks and the whites of the eggs separately and 
then together ; then add the rest of the ingredients, 
stirring constantly. Set the bowl containing the mix- 
ture in a sauce-pan of boiling water, and cook until the 
liquid thickens, stirring all the time. Set the dressing 
on the ice, and use when perfectly cold. 

CHICKEN SALAD. 

Use only tender chickens for salad. Boil them, and 
let them cool in the water in which thev were boiled. 



SALADS. 299 

When perfectly cold, remove the skin and cut the meat 
in dice. If the salad is to be particularly nice, use only 
the white meat, saving the dark for croquettes. When 
the meat has been cut in pieces, set it in a cold place 
until needed. Wash and cut the fine parts of celery into 
half-inch lengths, throw the pieces into a bowl of cold 
water, and leave them at least an hour. When ready 
to serve, dry the celery, and mix it with the chicken, 
allowing for every pint of meat two-thirds of a pint of 
celery ; and season the whole with celery salt. Line 
a bowl with lettuce leaves, lay the chicken and cel- 
ery on the leaves, and pour over them the cream or 
the mayonnaise salad-dressing, allowing a cupful of 
dressing to every pint of chicken. Garnish with French 
capers and slices of cold boiled eggs, or with white celery 
lips. 

Chicken for salad is often marinated h^iox^ being used. 
This is done by stirring into the cut meat a mixture con- 
sisting of 

Three table-spoonfuls of vinegar. 
One table-spoonful of oil. 
One tea-spoonful of salt. 
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper. 

This quantity will marinate a quart of chicken, which is 
then set on the ice for an hour; the chicken will by thai 
time have absorbed the mixture, and be finely seasoned. 

Chicken salad is as often served without the lettuce as 
with it, this being a matter of taste. Veal cut in cubes is 
sometimes used to increase the quantity of chicken when 
a large amount of salad is required for any special pur- 
pose. The white part of roast pork is also sometimes 



300 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

used for this purpose, but tliis is a deception which, per- 
haps, should not be encouraged. 

LOBSTER SALAD. 

In taking the meat from the lobster, the coral, if there 
is any, should be carefully laid by itself. Cut the meat 
into dice, and set it in a cool place until wanted ; or ii 
may be put in a marinade of vinegar, oil and seasoning, 
the same as chicken salad, and be much improved by the 
extra seasoning. To a pint of meat will be required 
two heads of lettuce and half a pint of mayonnaise dress- 
ing. Wash the lettuce well, and lay it in ice water for at 
least an hour. At serving time stir part of the dressing 
into the lobster ; then dry the lettuce well, and place two 
leaves together in the form of a shell ; or if the leaves j 
are small, make a nest of them, arranging them on a flat 
dish. Put a table-spoonful of lobster in each shell, and a | 
tea-spoonful of dressing on top of the lobster. Garnish j 
the top of the dressing with capers, and sift the pounded \ 
coral over all, placing the claws of the lobster at the ! 
outer edge of the dish. 

Another very attractive way of serving lobster salad is ^ 
as follows. When removing the meat from the shells, be j 
careful not to break the body or tail shells. Clean the I 
two tail shells (for two lobsters are required to make any i 
reasonable quantity of salad), and also one of the body i 
shells in cold water, washing them well and drying ; 
then with a pair of scissors remove the thin shell from 
the under-side of the tails. Join the shells together in \ 
the shape of a boat, the body shell being in the center; j 
and place the boat on a flat dish. Put the lobster and ' 
the Mayonnaise, well mixed, in the boat, mash the coral 



SALADS. 301 

ine and sprinkle it over the whole. Garnish with a 
:hain of the whites of hard-boiled eggs cut in slices and 
inked together. Lettuce is not required with lobster 
;alad served in this way. 

Canned lobster may be used for salad; and it is better 
f opened some time before using, that the close, airless 
unell may pass away. 

FISH SALAD. 

The remains of almost any cold fish may be used in 
his way very satisfactorily, but salad is more successful 
.vhen made of fish that will flake nicely, such as salmon, 
:od or haddock. Flake the fish coarsely, and mix it 
ightly with dressing. The potato mayonnaise is espe- 
:ially nice with fish. Lay the fish on a bed of let- 
uce, pour the remainder of the salad dressing on it, and 
jerve at once. Canned salmon maybe used for salad. A 
"ew slices of cold boiled potatoes form a palatable addi- 
;ion to a fish salad. 

VEGETABLE SALADS. 

Any remains of cooked vegetables may be most appe- 
!.izingly served as a salad, but certain kinds combine bet- 
;er than others. In thus uniting vegetables, those of deli- 
:ate flavor should form the body of the salad, while only 
I small proportion of those that are strong-flavored 
)hould be used. Beets, being sweet, should be used 
sparingly. A salad of vegetables may be made very 
utractive or quite the reverse. Each vegetable should 
3e cut up and seasoned with salt and pepper. Any kind 
)f dressing may be used, the French being most fre- 
;iuently chosen. Strew the vegetables in the salad bowl, 



302 THE FA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

each kind in a separate layer (not making an " olla- 
padrida " or mix of them), and sprinkle each layer with 
the dressing. A quart of vegetables will require the 
full quantity of dressing given in the recipe for French 
dressing. 

TOMATO SALAD. 

Mayonnaise dressing is invariably used for this salad, 
and it should be made thicker, or, rather, less vinegar 
should be used, for two reasons : the tomato itself, being 
so largely acid, does not require the dressing to be so 
piquant, and the tomato gives off so much juice that the 
dressing is much thinned by it. The dressing, therefore, 
should be quite thick. When this salad is to be served 
as a separate course, choose tomatoes that are not too 
large, and peel them carefully with a sharp knife, tak- 
ing care to preserve the round shape of the fruit. 
Set them on the ice for an hour; then take them up, and 
with a corer take out a neat piece from the stem portion 
of each. This may also be done with a sharp-pointed 
knife. Fill the cavity thus made with mayonnaise, heap- 
ing it up as much as possible. Set the tomatoes on three 
or four crisp lettuce leaves laid with their points outward, 
and serve a tomato to each person at table. There are 
many other ways of preparing this salad. A simple plan 
is to peel the tomatoes, lay them on the ice to thoroughly 
chill, cut them in rather thick slices, lay the slices in a 
salad bowl or on a flat dish, and pour the mayonnaise 
over all, using no lettuce at all. Serve a slice to each 
one at table. The tomatoes may also be peeled, 
chilled, cut in halves and set in a nest of lettuce leaves, 
the dressing being poured over them and one-half servea 



SALADS. • 303 

to each person. The last method is very convenient 
when the tomatoes are too large to serve one to each per- 
son. 

POTATO SALAD. 

There is no salad in which there is such an opportunity 
for a variety of combinations as in this. New potatoes 
or the German potatoes are the best for the purpose ; a 
ripe, mealy potato breaks into crumbs and spoils the dish. 
When new or German potatoes are not obtainable, do not 
boil the potatoes quite so long as for other purposes, thus 
leaving them underdone ; they can then be cut in any de- 
sired shape. 

The simplest potato salad is made by slicing the pota- 
toes rather thinly, arranging a layer in the salad dish and 
covering lightly with any dressing preferred ; arrange 
another layer of potatoes and dressing, and so continue 
until all the potatoes are used ; then serve. Potatoes 
and beets are often used together. Cut them in half-inch 
dice or in thin slices, and season with salt and pepper. 
Rub the yolk of a hard-boiled egg through a sieve, and 
chop some parsley rather coarsely. Arrange in the salad 
bowl alternate layers of potatoes, beets, &gg, parsley and 
dressing, until all the ingredients are used, reserving 
quite a goodly portion of the dressing for the top layer, 
and placing egg and parsley on top of the dressing. 
Or place the potatoes, parsley and egg in the center of 
the dish and a circle of beets and lettuce around the 
edge ; and pour the salad dressing over the whole. 

Onions, thinly sliced and sparingly used are often 
arranged in alternate layers with the potato. Many pro- 
fessional cooks prefer to mix a potato salad while the po- 



304 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

tatoes are hot, as it looks more appetizing, will keep 
longer and has less of the peculiar soggy taste than 
when made with cold potatoes. 

LETTUCE SALAD. 

Choose for this the crisp part of the lettuce, lay it in 
cold water for an hour, dry well, and arrange it in a 
salad bowl. Pour over the center of the dish any of the 
dressings given ; mayonnaise is most generally used, but 
after a heavy dinner the French dressing is much to be 
preferred to any other. 

The following vegetables may be used the same as 
lettuce : 

Endive. Water-cress. Sorrel. 

Pepper-grass. Nasturtium Blossoms. Dandelion. 

CREAM CABBAGE SALAD. 

Chop the cabbage fine. Put in a saucepan enough 
cream to nearly cover the cabbage, and add to it 

One egg, well beaten. _ 
A pinch of red pepper or mustard. 
One table-spoonful of vinegar. 
A little salt. 

Stir constantly until the milk thickens, remove from 
the fire, and when cool, pour the liquid over the cabbage, 
mixing it well in. Let the salad stand an hour be- 
fore serving. If there is no cream at hand, use milk, 
with a generous spoonful of butter to make it rich 
enough. 



SALADS. 305 

CABBAGE SALAD. 

Two table-spoonfuls of vinegar. 

One egg (yolk only). 

One and a-half pint of chopped cabbage. 

One tea-spoonful of corn-starch. 

One-half cupful of milk. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Chop the cabbage fine, and season with salt and pep- 
per, using none in the dressing. If the cabbage is 
wilted, soak it in ice-water or cold water for an hour 
before chopping it, Heat the vinegar, and if very strong, 
dilute it with water. Beat the yolk of the ^gg well ; then 
stir the corn-starch into the milk, and put in the egg, 
beating all well together. Add this gently to the boiling 
vinegar ; the mixture will not curdle, but will become a 
creamy dressing when done. When the dressing has 
boiled two minutes, take it from the fire, pour it over the 
cabbage while still hot, and set the salad away in a cool 
place ; serve when cold. If desired, the dressing may be 
cooled before being poured over the cabbage. This 
salad is very delicious. 

CHEESE SALAD. 

One-half pound of old cheese, grated. 

One hard-boiled egg. 

One table-spoonful of vinegar. 

One table-spoonful of salad oil. 

One-half tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One tea-spoonful of sugar. 

One tea-spoonful of made mustard. 

Rub to a powder the yolk of the egg, and when cold, 
add the oil ; after these are well mixed, put in in the 

20 



3o6 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

order named the salt, pepper, sugar, mustard and cheese. 
Work all wfell together before pouring in the vinegar. 
Serve in a crab shell, if one is obtainable. This salad 
closely resembles deviled crab and makes a good relish 
at tea or luncheon. It should be eaten with crackers 
and butter. 

SALAD SANDWICHES. 

These are very delicious for picnics or for traveling. 
Mix a small quantity of mayonnaise dressing with finely 
chopped lobster or chicken. Cover a small slice of bread 
with lettuce, then spread a layer of salad, and cover with 
lettuce and bread. Wrap the sandwich in tinfoil or oiled 
paper. 

VEGETABLES FOR SALADS. 

1. Lettuce alone. 

2. Lettuce and water-cress or pepper-grass, with small radishes for a 

garnish. 

3. Lettuce and chives, with olives for a garnish. 

4. Lettuce and celery, the latter being cut into inch pieces. 

5. Lettuce and sorrel. 

6. Lettuce and anchovies, the latter being cut into thin strips 

7. Endive alone. 

8. Endive and water-cress. 

9. Endive and celery, beets and hard-boiled eggs ; the endive being 

placed in the center, then a row of eggs and next a row of beets, 
with an edge of fringed celery. 

10. Water-cress and beets, garnished with olives, the beets being cut 
in dice. 

11. Sliced cucumbers and sliced new onions. 

12. Dandelions. 

SALAD NOTES. 

Condensed milk may be used in place of cream in 



SALADS. 



307 



making dressings requiring cream, but the latter is, of 
course, to be preferred. 

A good Tartar sauce is made by beating into half a 
pint of mayonnaise dressing half a table-spoonful of 
chopped pickles, olives and capers. A salad made of 
several kinds of vegetables is called a salade macedome. 



CHEESE DISHES. 

" He hath never fed of the dainties that are bred in a book." 

Shakspere. 

^ In England, and at almost every well-appointed table 
in America, cheese is a positive necessity. It may be re- 
garded as our most concentrated food, since it contains 
twice as much nutriment as any other known substance. 
Being difficult of digestion it should be eaten only in 
small quantities. Cooked or melted cheese is much 
more wholesome than when in a raw state, but the cook- 
ing of cheese is singularly neglected in this country — 
in fact, it is practically an unknown art. 

Among the best English cheeses are the Stilton 
and Cheshire, and the best French varieties are the 
Neufchatel, Brie and Roquefort, the last named be- 
ing one of the most popular kinds of cheese known. 
The Gruyere, a Swiss cheese, is also well liked ; it 
is made of new milk and flavored with a powdered 
herb. French mustard, pepper and salt are passed 
at table when this cheese is served. The Roquefort 
cheese is made of goats' and sheep's milk. Parmesan 
cheese, an Italian variety, is made of skimmed milk and 
is high flavored and very hard ; it is never sent to market 
until it is six months old and is often kept three or four 

308 



CHEESE DISHES. 309 

years. It is used extensively in grated form for cooking, 
and can be purchased already grated. 

American cheeses are exported in large quantities to 
England, where they are held in high favor. One of the 
best of these makes is the " English Dairy," made in 
Otsego County, New York. It is of a dark-yellow color, 
and is very rich and highly flavored. A milder, but 
equally well-flavored cheese, is made at Milan, Cayuga 
Co., N. Y. The Stilton cheese, made in the latter county, 
can scarcely be distinguished from the English article of 
the same name. In serving this cheese, the top should 
be cut off to form a cover, and the cheese should be 
neatly encircled with a napkin. When removed from the 
table, the cover should be replaced. 

Cheese is cut into little squares and passed in a glass 
cheese-dish. When forming a separate course at dinner, 
it should come just before the dessert. It is an English 
fashion to serve celery or cucumbers with cheese. Thin 
milk crackers or wafer biscuit, placed in the oven a 
moment to make them crisp, should be served with the 
cheese, and butter for spreading the crackers should also 
be passed, this being the only time it is customarily 
allowed for dinner. 

Macaroni with cheese, Welsh rarebit and cheese ome- 
let are good for a cheese course. The Welsh rarebit 
makes an especially pretty course. It is served on little 
silver chafing dishes about four inches square, one of 
which, standing in a plate, is served to each person at 
table. The reservoir contains boiling water, and the Uttle 
platter holds the slice of Welsh rarebit, which is thus kept 
hot. 



3IO THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

WELSH RAREBIT. 

This is a favorite dish for gentlemen's suppers and for 
luncheons. Cut bread into thin slices, shape these into 
diamonds or squares, toast them, and while hot, butter 
lightly. With a tea-spoon dip boiling water upon the toast 
to moisten slightly, wetting only the unbuttered side. 
Place each slice on a separate hot plate, allowing one for 
each person at table ; sprinkle with a little salt, pour over 
the toast enough melted cheese to cover, and serve the mo- 
ment this is done, since otherwise the cheese will harden, 
the toast will cool, and the dish will be altogether spoiled. 
Rich, new cheese should be chosen for this purpose, as 
it melts more easily. The cheese should be put in a cup 
to be melted. If the rarebit is stringy and tough, the 
cheese has not been sufficiently rich. 

This simple recipe is a decidedly good one, but there 
are many different ways of making the dish. Some spread 
a little mustard over the toast, others add ale to the 
cheese, or dip the toast in ale instead of using hot water. 
Another method is to serve a poached ^%% on each slice of 
toast and cheese, and another to mix the yolks of eggs 
with the melted cheese. 

WELSH RAREBIT, WITH EGGS. 

One cupful of grated cheese. 
One egg (yolk only). 
One-quarter of a cupful of milk. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 

Prepare the toast the same as in the preceding recipe. 
Place the milk in a porcelain-lined stew-pan, and when 
hot, put in the cheese, and stir continually until the latter 



CHEESE DISHES. 3II 

is melted. Add the salt, pepper and the beaten yolk, stir 
but a moment, and pour the liquid over the toast. 

WELSH RAREBIT, WITH ALE. 

This is the way a rarebit is generally prepared in Eng- 
land. 

One pound of cheese. 

One-half table-spoonful of butter. 

One wine-glassful of ale. 

Put the butter and ale in a porcelain-lined stew-pan, 
and when hot, stir in the cheese cut into dice. Stir and 
cook until all are blended to a smooth paste. Prepare 
the toast as above, pour this mixture over it, and serve 
very hot. Single Gloucester cheese can always be relied 
upon in preparing rarebits in this way. 

CHEESE SOUFFLE. 

Two and a-half table-spoonfuls of flour. 
Three eggs. 

One and a-half pint (scant) of milk. 
One-quarter pound of grated Parmesan cheese. 

Beat the yolks of the eggs well, thin them with a little 
of the milk, and add the grated cheese. Rub the flour 
to a paste with a little more of the milk. Heat in a 
porcelain-lined stew-pan the remainder of the milk, and 
when it boils, stir in the flour paste. Stir until the whole 
is smooth and creamy, and add the other mixture of 
cheese and yolks. Boil the liquid about a minute, or until 
the cheese is fully melted, and remove from the fire. 
Whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and stir them 
into the mixture. Fill some paper cases with this prepara- 
tion, bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven, and serve at 



3 I 2 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

once. Cases for baking the souffle may be purchased 
from a confectioner, or they may be made with very little 
trouble. Silver scollop shells are also used for the pur- 
pose, and are, of course, more elegant. 

RAMEKINS. 

Two table-spoonfuls of grated cheese. 
One table-spoonful of butter. 
Two table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs. 
Four table-spoonfuls of milk. 
One-quarter tea-spoonful of mustard. 
One-quarter tea-spoonful of salt. 
One-eighth tea-spoonful of pepper. 
One egg. 

Boil the crumbs in the milk until soft, and add the but- 
ter, mustard, salt, pepper and cheese and the yolk of the 
^g§' When all are well mixed, stir in the white of the 
6gg, beaten to a stiff froth. Put the mixture in paper 
cases, filling each case but three-quarters full, and bake 
five or six minutes. The ramekins should be puffed high 
above the edge of the paper, and should be served 
immediately, else they will fall. They will make a pretty 
cheese course for dinner. 

CHEESE au gratifi. 

Four eggs. 

One cupful of grated cheese. 
One-half cupful of milk. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper 
Six tea-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs. 
Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

Butter a suitable number of individual dishes. Beat 



CHEESE DISHES. 313 

the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add to them 
the yolks and seasoning. Mix well, and add the cheese 
and then the milk. Pour this mixture into the little 
dishes, sprinkle each lightly with the crumb, and bake 
for eight minutes in a moderate oven. 

CHEESE PUFFS. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

Four table-spoonfuls of flour. 

Four table-spoonfuls of grated cheese. 

Two eggs. 

One cupful of water. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-fifth tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Wet the flour in a little of the water until it forms a 
smooth paste, and add the cheese, salt and pepper. 
Place the rest of the water and the butter in a saucepan, 
and when boiling, add the flour mixture. Cook three 
minutes, stirring all the time ; remove the mixture from 
the fire, and set it away to cool. When cold, add the 
eggs unbeaten, one at a time, and beat the batter at 
least ten minutes. Butter a baking-pan lightly, and drop 
the mixture into it, using a heaping tea-spoonful for each 
puff", and leaving considerable space between them, as 
they increase threefold in size. Bake twenty minutes, 
and serve hot. Sometimes a plain cream sauce or a 
brown sauce is served with these puffs. 

CHEESE STRAWS. 

Three table-spoonfuls of flour. 

Three table-spoonfuls of Parmesan cheese. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One table-spoonful of milk. 



3 1 4 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

One-half salt-spoonful of salt. 
One-quarter salt-spoonful of pepper. 
One-eighth salt-spoonful of nutmeg. 
One egg (yolk only). 

Mix the dry ingredients, add the milk, the yolk and the 
butter, softened. Mix all well with a spoon, and when 
smooth, divide the dough into two parts. Roll these 
very thin, cut them into narrow strips three inches long, 
and bake in a slow oven fifteen minutes. These straws 
may be served hot or cold, either as a cheese course or 
with lettuce in the salad course. They may be arranged 
in bunches of six or eight, each bundle being tied with 
narrow ribbon ; or they may be piled on a plate in log- 
cabin style. 

COTTAGE CHEESE, NO. I. 

For making this cheese the milk should not be too 
sour ; as soon as it gets thick it is ready to use. Place 
the pan of milk over a kettle of hot water and heat almost 
to the boiling point. When it has been in the heat six or 
eight minutes, take a large spoon and turn the milk over 
by spoonfuls, bringing the hot part on top. When the 
whey has become so hot that it cannot be touched by the 
finger, turn all into a colander to drain. When free of 
whey, add salt generously, and butter and pepper as 
desired. Press the mixture into a dish, or shape it into 
small balls. This cheese is much improved by the addi- 
tion of a few spoonfuls of cream at the time of seasoning. 

COTTAGE CHEESE, NO. 2. 

Four quarts of thick sour milk. 
Four tea-spoonfuls of butter. 
Four salt-spoonfuls of salt. 
Four table-spoonfuls of cream. 



CHEESE DISHES, 3 I 5 

Place the milk in a pan on the back of the range, and 
scald it until the curds and whey are separated. Spread 
a strainer cloth over a bowl, and pour in the milk ; lift 
the edges of the cloth, draw them together, drain and 
wring quite dry. Put the curds in a small bowl, add the 
seasoning, and shape into balls. If too soft to handle, 
place the cheese in a cool place for an hour, when it 
may be conveniently shaped. If scalded too long, the 
curds become hard and brittle. 

TOASTED CHEESE. 

Cut the cheese in slices a-quarter of an inch thick, 
place these in an oyster broiler, and broil them over very 
hot coals, turning frequently, until each side is lightly 
browned. Serve with bread, and eat with mustard and 
salt. This makes a very nice luncheon dish. 



EGGS. 

" The vulgar boil — the learned roast, an egg. 



Pope. 



It is poor economy to limit the family in respect to 
eggs. They are most nutritious, and even at a high 
price, are cheaper than meat. They should be used 
freely by all, except those who know they cannot digest 
them. But by this we do not mean their extravagant 
use in rich cake, nor their being eaten when indigestibly 
prepared, as, for instance, when hard-boiled or fried; 
but we mean rather that they should be freely partaken 
of when simply cooked. Throughout the spring and 
summer eggs should form a large part of the fare at 
breakfast and luncheon, but if not served in a variety of 
ways, they will soon become very tiresome. The most 
healthful methods of preparing eggs are those by which 
they are not subjected to a temperature higher than that 
at which water boils. Eggs should never be boiled. 
When boiled for three minutes, they are called "soft- 
boiled," but in reality they are not soft-boiled at all, since 
one part is hard-boiled, while the other part is scarcely 
cooked at all. An ^gg that is properly cooked is not 
boiled. The white when eaten should yield to pressure 
like thick cream if taken between the fingers. 

To ascertain the freshness of an egg without breaking 
3i6 



EGGS. 317 

it, hold it before a strong light or toward the sun; if 
the yolk appears round and the white surrounding it 
clear, the chances are the egg is good. Another test for 
eggs is to lay them in a pan of cold water ; the fresh ones 
will sink immediately, while those that float are doubtful. 
The shell of a fresh egg looks dull and porous. 

TO PRESERVE EGGS 

It is only necessary to close the pores of the shell. 
This may be done by varnishing or dipping them in 
melted suet, and then packing them in bran or salt, with 
the small end downward. Another method that is very 
successful is as follows : Pack the eggs in a stone jar, with 
the small ends downward ; make a lime-water by pouring 
four quarts of boiling water over a pound of lime, and 
when this is cold and has settled, pour the water care- 
fully upon the eggs in the jar. Lay a saucer on top of 
the eggs to keep them under the water, and set the jar in 
a cool, dark place. 

BOILED EGGG. 

Many people do not care for eggs which are boiled so 
that the whites are soft, although they know that they are 
far more nutritious when thus prepared. For those who 
prefer boiled eggs, the following directions are given : 
Place the eggs in a sauce-pan of boiling water, using a 
table-spoon or a frying-basket for the purpose. Boil them 
steadily for three minutes if desired "soft-boiled," and 
ten minutes if desired "hard-boiled." 

There are two methods of cooking them in the more 
nutritious manner : First,, place the eggs in a saucepan 
of cold water, and when the water boils the eggs are 



3 1 8 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

done ; this will take about ten minutes. Second, put six 
eggs in a vessel that will hold two quarts, fill the vessel 
with boiling water, cover it closely, and stand it in a 
warm place for ten minutes ; in this way the eggs will be 
cooked equally well in every part. If the eggs are de- 
sired more thoroughly done, let them stand in the hot 
water ten or even twenty minutes longer, but do not 
place them on the range. Serve boiled eggs in a folded 
napkin. 

In preparing eggs for garnishing or for salads they will 
require to be boiled at least fifteen minutes. 

If the shell of an egg is cracked, pierce several small 
holes in the large end, and the contents of the egg will 
not burst out in boiling. 

POACHED EGGS. 

Break the eggs, one at a time into a saucer. Place water 
in a saucepan, salt it well, and when it is simmering, drop 
each ^gg lightly in, cooking but one ^gg at a time if the 
saucepan is small. More may be cooked at once by using 
a large frying-pan. The water should not be allowed to 
boil while the eggs are cooking, but should be kept just 
at the boiling point. With a small spoon throw the water 
carefully on the top of the egg to whiten it. The beauty of 
a poached egg is for the yolk to be seen blushing through 
the white, which should be just sufficiently hardened to^ 
form a veil for the yolk. When cooked enough, take out 
the ^gg with a perforated ladle, trim off the ragged edges, 
and slip it on a small, thin piece of buttered toast. When 
all the eggs are cooked and placed on their separate 
pieces of toast, place on each a bit of butter and sprinkle 
with salt and pepper. 



EGGS. 319 

Some cooks set muffin-rings in the water to give 
tlie eggs an even shape, poaching them, inside the 
rings. An egg-poacher is very convenient for this work. 
Poached eggs are often placed in beef soup, one egg 
being prepared for each person at table. They are also 
served on thin slices of boiled ham, and also in a Welsh 
rarebit. Delmonico, when - serving poached eggs on 
toast, sprinkles sorrel over the lop of the &gg. 

SCRAMBLED EGGS. 

This dish is particularly nice for breakfast. For six 
persons, allow 

Five eggs. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One-half cupful of milk. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-eighth tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Beat the eggs well, and add to them the milk, salt and 
pepper. Put the butter in a frying-pan, and when hot, 
turn in the eggs, and stir continually until a thick, creamy 
mass is formed ; this will not require more than a minute 
and a-half. Remove from the fire, and serve at once. 
A little chopped parsley is sometimes stirred into the 
eggs just before they are taken from the fire. 

SPANISH EGGS. 

These are prepared the same as directed in the pre- 
ceding recipe, but before cooking the mixture add to the 
butter in the pan one large tomato, peeled and cut into 
bits. Cook the tomato in the butter until soft, about five 
minutes being necessary ; then turn in the egg mixture, 
and finish as above. 



120 



THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 



EGGS IN TOMATO. 

Six eggs. 

One pint of tomato. 

One small onion. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Cut the onion into small pieces, place these with the^ 
tomato in a frying-pan, stew very slowly for ten minutes, 
and add the salt and pepper. Set the pan back, break] 
the eggs and slip them on top of the tomato, taking care] 
not to break the yolks. Return the pan to the heat, and 
cook slowly until the whites of the eggs are thoroughly 
set; then prick the yolks and let them mingle with the! 
tomato and whites. The mixture should be quite soft,; 
but the red tomatoes and the white and yellow of the: 
eggs should be quite distinct. Serve at once on buttered i 
toast. 

EGG VERMICELLI. 

This makes a most attractive-looking dish for luncheon.] 

Five eggs. 

One table-spoonful of corn-starch. 

One-half table-spoonful of butter. 

Six squares of toast. 

One-half pint of milk. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Place the eggs in boiling water and boil twenty] 
minutes. Throw them into cold water, and when cold, 
remove the shells, chop the whites very fine and rub the] 
yolks through a sieve, or else run them through a potato- 
strainer, which will do the work very quickly. Do notl 
mix the whites and yolks. Put the milk in a double] 



EGGS. 321 

boiler to boil, rub the butter and corn-slarch together, 
and add them to the boiling milk. Stir until creamy, and 
add the whites, salt, pepper and batter. Wet the edges 
of the toast, butter it lightly and place on a warm 
dish. Cover the slices with the while sauce, apportioning 
it evenly to each of the six slices ; sprinkle the strained 
yolks in little heaps upon the tops, and serve at once, 
after sifting on a little salt and pepper. 

DEVILED EGGS. 

Twelve eggs. 

Two heaping table-spoonfuls of cold boiled ham. 

One table-spoonful of olive oil. 

One tea-spoonful of mustard. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Boil the eggs fifteen minutes, and lay them in cold 
water for half an hour. Remove the shells and cut the 
eggs in halves lengthwise. Rub the yolks to a smooth 
paste with the oil and mustard, and add the ham, finely 
chopped; and the salt and pepper ; mix thoroughly, and 
fill the hollowed whites with the mixture. Serve in a bed 
of water-cress or salad. 

For picnics, put the corresponding halves of each ^egg 
together and press them closely ; then cut white tissue 
paper into pieces six inches square, fringe the opposite 
ends, roll one egg into each paper, and twist the fringed 
ends the same as the coverings of bonbons are often 
arranged. Serve on a napkin in a pretty basket, gar- 
nished with smilax or myrtle. 

BAKED EGGS, NO. I. 

Break six or eight eggs into a well buttered earthen 
21 



322 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. . 

pie-plate, taking care that each ^gg is whole and does 
not encroach upon the others to mix or disturb the yolks. 
Sprinkle with pepper and salt, and place a bit of butter 
upon each ^gg. Bake in a hot oven until the whites are 
well set, usually about eight minutes. Serve hot with 
rounds of buttered toast, sending the eggs to table in the 
plate in which they were baked. 



BAKED EGGS, NO. 2. 

Eight eggs. 

One cupful of milk. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One tea-spoonful of flour. 

One tea-spoonful of chopped parsley. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 



Place the butter in a small frying-pan, and when 
melted, add the flour ; stir until smooth and frothy, draw 
the pan back, and gradually add the cold milk. When 
the mixture boils, add the seasoning, cook a minute, 
stirring all the time, and turn the sauce into a deep plate 
used for baking eggs, or into a deep earthen pie-plate. 
Break the eggs carefully and drop them into the sauce, 
taking care not to break the yolks. Sprinkle the parsley 
over the eggs and sauce, place the dish in a moderate 
oven, and bake until the whites are set, usually six or 
eight minutes. Serve in the same dish. If parsley is 
not liked, it may be omitted ; and if cheese is liked, a 
table-spoonful of grated Parmesan may be sprinkled over 
the eggs. 



EGGS. 323 

CREAMED EGGS. (fOR LENT.) 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

Two table-spoonfuls (scant) of flour. 

One pint of milk. 

Four eggs. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One-half of a small onion. 

Six slices of toast. 

Boil the eggs twenty minutes, and lay them in cold 
water; when cold, remove the shells, and cut each egg 
into six pieces. Cut the onion fine. Place the butter in 
a small frying-pan, and when it is hot, slowly cook the 
onion in it until of a light yellow^ hue, taking care, how- 
ever, not to brown either the butter or the onion at all. 
Remove the onion, add the flour and stir until the paste 
is smooth and frothy, but do not let it brown in the least. 
Draw the pan back, gradually add the milk, return to the 
heat, and when the sauce boils, put in the salt, pepper 
and eggs. As soon as the eggs are well heated, turn all 
out upon buttered toast, and serve at once. A few drops 
of onion juice may be used instead of the onion, thus 
facilitating the work somewhat. 

FRIED EGGS. 

The most delicate way of frying eggs is to cook them 
on a pan-cake griddle. Heat the griddle almost as much 
as for pancakes, butter it lightly, and slip the eggs upon 
it, breaking the eggs one by one into a saucer to make 
sure that all are fresh. When slightly browned, turn 
them carefully with a pan-cake turner ; they should be 
done in tw^o minutes. 



324 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

EGG NESTS. 

For six persons, use 

Six eggs. 

Six slices of toast. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One and a-half table-spoonful of butter. 

Separate the whites of the eggs from the yolks, and 
place the whites on a platter or large plate, leaving the 
yolks in the half shells until needed. Put the salt with 
the whites, and beat the latter to a stiff froth. Toast the 
bread, dip the edges in hot water, spread generously with 
butter, and place them in a dripping-pan. Heap the 
whites of the eggs on the toast, make a depression in the 
center of each mound, and put a quarter of a tea-spoonful 
of butter and one of the whole yolks in each hollow. 
Place the pan in a moderate oven, and cook until the 
mounds are lightly browned. A spoonful of chopped 
ham may be spread on each slice of toast before the 
beaten white is placed upon it. 

PICKLED EGGS. 

These make a nice accompaniment for broiled steak. 

Six eggs. 

One pint of vinegar. 

Twenty four whole cloves. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-half tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One-half tea-spoonful of ground mustard. 

Boil the eggs fifteen minutes, throw them into cold 
water, and when cool, remove the shells and stick four 
cloves into each egg. Put the vinegar on to boil, rub 



EGGS. ^ 325 

the mustard, salt and pepper to a paste with a table- 
spoonful of the cold vinegar, and when the vinegar is 
boiling, add the paste to it and stir until the whole is well 
mixed. Put the eggs in a glass fruit-jar, pour the boiling 
vinegar over them, cover well and use after two weeks. 

STUFFED EGGS, NO. I. 

For six persons, use 

Six eggs. 

One table-spoonful of flour. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

One pint of milk. 

Three drops of onion juice. 

Salt and pepper. 

Boil the eggs twenty minutes, drop them into cold 
water, and when cool, remove the shells. Cut an even 
slice from each end of each ^g^^ and cut the eggs in two. 
Take out the yolks, mash them until light and smooth, 
and add to them the onion juice and 

One quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
One table-spoonful of butter. 
Four table-spoonfuls of milk. 

Mix all well together, and heap the mixture in the 
shape of domes in the halves of the whites, setting the 
whites on end. Place the eggs on a well buttered tin 
plate or pan, and bake in the oven for six minutes. While 
they are baking, prepare the sauce as follows : Put the 
remaining table-spoonful of butter in a frying-pan, and 
when it is hot, add the flour, and stir until smooth and 
frothy, but not brown ; then gradually add the milk. 



326 THE PA TTERiV CO OA-B O OK. 

Season with salt and pepper, boil up once, arrange the 
baked eggs on a warm dish, pour the sauce around them, 
garnish with parsley, and serve at once. 

STUFFED EGGS, NO. 2. 

These are delicious, but rather difficult to make. For 
six persons, allow 

Six eggs. 

One table-spoonful of tongue or ham. 
One table-spoonful of melted butter. 
Salt and pepper to taste. 

Boil the eggs fifteen minutes, cool them in water, 
remove the shells, and cut the eggs in halves lengthwise ; 
take out the yolks carefully, mash them fine, add the 
butter and finely chopped meat and also the salt and 
pepper, and rub all together until a perfectly smooth 
paste is obtained. Fill the whites with the mixture, and 
press the corresponding halves together. Dip the egg 
first in beaten egg, then in bread-crumbs, again in the 
egg and crumbs, and fry in boiling fat for two minutes, 
using a frying-basket. When all the eggs are cooked, 
pour around them a sauce made of 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

One table-spoonful of flour. 

One pint of milk. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 

Rub the Hour and butter to a cream ; heat the milk, 
and gradually add it to the butter and flour. When 
smooth, return all to the pan in which the milk was 
heated, and boil two minutes, stirring all the time ; then 
add the salt and pepper, when the sauce is ready to use. 



OMELETS. 327 

OMELETS. 

Nothing is more simply made than an omelel, yet 
comparatively few cooks can make one properly. The 
eggs either stick to the pan or are overdone and tough. 
Much stress is laid in many cook-books upon the neces- 
sity of an omelet-pan, but any smooth iron frying-pan 
that ia not too small for the number of eggs used will do 
equally well. There is also much said about the pro- 
fessional manner of tossing the omelet, shaking the pan, 
etc., that bewilders the unexperienced and renders the 
viodiis operandi apparently very difficult. We give here 
a recipe for omelet that has never been known to fail, 
and is simple enough for any one to follow. For those 
who care for a more elaborate mode of work there are 
many books that will explain the difficulties to them, but 
this recipe is given for those not yet skilled in work of 
this kind. 

For a family of five, allow five eggs. Beat the whites 
to a stiff froth on a large plate ; place the yolks in a 
good-sized earthenware cake bowl, and beat them well, 
adding a spoonful of the. beaten whites to make them 
more frothy. Turn the whites into the bowl containing 
the yolks, adding half a tea-spoonful of salt and a very 
little pepper, and mix all well together. Place a table- 
spoonful of butter in a frying-pan, or an omelet-pan if 
there is one, and when quite hot, so that the butter is 
commencing to brown, turn in the eggs. Do not keep 
them in this heat more than a minute ; then set the 
pan on the top grate in a hot oven to finish the cooking. 
If the oven is at the right heat, the omelet should be 
done in five minutes. Take the pan out, slip a knife 
under the omelet to loosen it on all sides, fold 



328 



THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 



one side upon the other, and send at once to the 
table. 

This may be termed a baked omelet by professional, 
cooks, but it is one that is certainly worthy of note, for 
lighter and better omelets cannot be found anywhere thani 
in those households in which these directions have beeni 
the rule for years in the preparation of this simple and 
delightful article of food. 

OMELET SOUFFLE. 

Six eggs. 

Three table-spoonfuls of pulverized sugar. 

One-half tea-spoonful of orange water, vanilla or lemon. 

Beat the whites of the. eggs to a hard froth. Put the 
yolks of three eggs in a bowl with the sugar and flavor- 
ing, and beat them well. Add the whites, mix quickly, 
and pile the mass as high as possible on a well buttered 
baking-dish. Smooth the top of the mound, make a slit 
down the center and at the sides, and bake fifteen min- 
utes in a moderate oven. At the end of this time the 
souffle should be of a fine yellow shade. Sprinkle with 
powdered sugar and serve at once. 



FRIED OMELET. 

This is a convenient way to make an omelet where the 
family come irregularly to breakfast. The mixture may 
stand for some time if beaten again thoroughly before 
frying. 

Six eggs. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper. 

One cupful of milk. 



OMELETS. 329 

Beat the eggs until light and foamy, and add the other 
ingredients. Fry a spoonful at a time in a hot frying- 
pan or on a pancake griddle, having the pan or griddle 
well buttered. When done, roll each omelet quickly like 
a French pancake, and serve. 

OTHER OMELETS. 

A great many dishes -can be made from the simple, 
plain omelet, not only for breakfast uses but also for 
desserts at dinner. Most of the additions are made to 
the omelet just before it is folded and while the top is 
moist and readily receives the different ingredients 

OYSTER OMELET. 

Heat eighteen oysters in their own liquor, skim them 
carefully, and stir in with them a table-spoonful of butter 
rubbed to a cream with a table-spoonful of flour. Season 
with salt and pepper, boil up once, and spread the oysters 
on the omelet before folding. 

TOMATO OINLELET. 

Boil two medium-sized tomatoes a few minutes, season 
with salt and pepper, and place them on the omelet just 
before it is folded. When served the tomato should be 
entirely enveloped, 

GREEN PEA OMELET. 

This is managed the same as tomato omelet, a few 
spoonfuls of cooked green peas being placed in the 
center. Serve the omelet with a row of peas around it. 

OMELET WITH VEGETABLES. 

Many vegetables beside the two above mentioned are 



330 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

used in making omelets. As]3araous and cauliiiower are 
often used. The vegetable should first be cooked until 
perfectly well done and laid rather dry in the omelet be- 
fore folding. Arrange a border of the vegetable used 
around the omelet for serving. 

HAM OMELET. 

Scatter over the center of the omelet a few spoonfuls 
of finely chopped ham. 

Cheese, parsley and chicken are used in the same way. 

SWEET OMELET (FOR DESSERT). 

Add a little sugar to the eggs, using no pepper and but 
half the quantity of salt. Make the plain omelet, and 
when ready to fold, put two or three table-spoonfuls of 
any kind of preserves, marmalade or jelly upon the top. 
After the omelet is laid on the serving-dish, sprinkle sugar 
over it. 

ORANGE OMELET. 

One orange (rind). 

Three eggs. 

Three table-spoonfuls of orange juice. 

Three tea-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. 

Grate the rind from the orange. Beat the yolks of the 
eggs thorougiily, and add the sugar, rind and juice. 
Beat the whites stiff, stir them into the yolks, and when 
both are well mixed, cook like a plain omelet. Fold the 
omelet, lay it on the serving-dish, sprinkle it thickly with 
powdered sugar and score it in diagonal lines with a clean 
red-hot poker. The burnt sugar gives the omelet a deli- 
cious flavor. 

To vary the recipe cut the orange into sections, remove 
the seeds and touoh inner skin cut each section into 



OMELETS. 331 

pieces, and mix these with the yolks before cooking ; or 
cut the orange into small pieces, spread part of it over 
the omelet before folding, and sprinkle the remainder 
over the sugared top. By any of these methods a con- 
venient dessert for an emergenc}- may be prepared in ten 
minutes. 

OMELET WITH RUM. 

This is a most delicious omelet. Add a little sugar to 
the eggs instead of the pepper, and use a little less salt 
than in the plain omelet. When the omelet is ready 
to serve, sprinkle a table-spoonful of sugar over the top. 
and pour over it four or five table-spoonfuls of rum. Set 
tire to the rum and send blazing to table. 



BREAD. 

" The very staff of life ! 
The comfort of the husband, the pride of the wife." 

The making of bread is at once the easiest and the 
most difficult branch of culinary science. It should be 
regarded as one of the highest accomplishments, and if a 
tenth of the interest, time and thought which are devoted 
to cake, pastry and fancy cooking were spent upon this 
most important article of food, the presence of good 
bread upon our tables would be invariably secured. It is 
deplorable indeed that in thousands of otherwise com- 
fortable homes good bread is an unknown thing. Good 
bread makes the plainest meal acceptable and the 
coarsest fare appetizing, while the most luxurious table 
is sadly wanting without it. Opinions as to what con- 
stitutes good bread differ as much as tastes and opin- 
ions regarding anything else ; but all will agree that good 
bread is light, sweet, free from any perceptible taste of 
the yeast and as white as the grade of flour will admit. 
Most important among the things needful to produce 
good bread is good 

FLOUR. 

Housekeepers seldom select flour by examination. 
They usually take some tried brand, or select on the 

332 



BREAD. 333 

recommendation of their grocer; therefore, a little ex- 
planation regarding the different brands may be help- 
ful. 

The fancy names given to flour amount to very little, 
as the same flour is sold by several dealers under various 
brands. The different " processes " refer to the several 
methods used in converting wheat into flour, the grinding 
being performed in several ways, each one claiming supe- 
riority. 

One process is by grinding between two horizontal 
stones, the upper one revolving and grinding the grain 
against the low^er one, which is stationary. The ground 
grain is then sifted through bolting-cloth, producing fine 
wheat flour, coarse wheat meal and bran. This is the 
St. Louis or " old process " flour and is also sold as 
pastry flour. The grinding with millstones heats the 
flour, and as it is often placed on the market without 
having been properly cooled and dried, it spoils very 
rapidly. 

Another m.ethod is the Minnesota or " patent process." 
The Washburn, Pillsbury and other mills located in 
Minneapolis are the largest flouring mills in the world. 
By this process the grain is crushed, not ground, by 
being passed through corrugated rollers, and is then 
sifted through bolting-cloth. Flour prepared in this way 
is considered one of the best grades. 

The third process is the " new patent " — or Haxall. 
By this method the outer husk of the wheat is removed, 
after which the cleaned grain is cut by a system of 
knives, v/hich reduces it to a fine powder without the 
injurious effect of heating. This flour swells more than 
that made by the "old process," as it contains more of 



334 ^-^^ ^^ TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

the gluten of the wheat, so ihal the same measure will 
make a greater quantity of bread than the St. Louis 
flour. It is, therefore, cheaper in the end, although it 
costs more per barrel ; and it makes the whitest bread. 
There have been many variations of the Haxall process, 
but all are included under the term " new process 
flour." 

Yet another method of converting wheat into flour has 
been recently introduced in New York and is highly 
recommended by physicians and scientists. The outer 
husk of the wheat (of which only the choicest kinds are 
used) is removed, and the grains are pulverized by a 
compressed cold-air blast, which dashes them into atoms 
with tremendous force. This is called " whole wheat " 
flour, the name indicating that the whole of the nutritive 
part of the wheat is retained. It is not sifted like other 
flour, but is pulverized into all the varieties of crushed 
wheat and coarse and fine granulated ; and each variety, 
even the finest flour, contains all that is valuable as food. 
Bread made with this flour has been found very sweet, 
light and spongy, with none of the objectionable features 
of Graham bread. The " Arlington," the " Franklin " 
and some other brands of whole-wheat flour are highly 
recommended by those familiar with them. 

Good flour should not be pure white in color, but of a 
creamy, yellowish shade. If flour feels damp, clammy 
and sticky and gradually forms into lumps that are hard 
to sift out, it is not of the best quality. Flour of high 
grade holds together in a mass when squeezed in the 
hand and retains the impression of the fingers and even 
of the indentations of the skin much longer than poor 
flour. Haxall flour has a fine consistency and runs 



BREAD. 335 

easily through the sieve or. fingers like velvety meal, 
while good St. Louis flour feels oily and soft. All house- 
keepers agree that flour is not improved by long standing 
and that it should be bought in quantities corresponding 
to the number of persons in the household, that it may 
be used within a reasonable length of time. For a small 
family it is wisest to buy it in twenty-five pound sacks, or 
at most by the quarter-barrel. Flour should be kept in a 
dry, cool place, should be well covered and should never 
be used without sifting. 

The next essential element in bread-making is the 

YEAST. 

There are three kinds of yeast in general use ; the dry, 
the compressed, and the liquid, each of which has its 
merits. Dry yeast cakes, such as the '* Twin Brothers*,'' 
" National " and many others, are good, if fresh, and 
being always obtainable and inexpensive, they are 
generally liked by those who use them. The compressed 
cakes, such as the "Vienna," are excellent when 
perfectly fresh, and are especially to be commended 
when bread is made in large quantities ; but for a small 
family, when only a quarter of a cake is used, perhaps 
twice a week, or for those living at a distance from the 
grocer's, they are inconvenient, expensive and wasteful. 
Yeast cakes have almost entirely taken the place of 
bakers' yeast. One two-cent cake of compressed yeast 
dissolved in a cupful of water is equal to a cupful of 
home-made yeast. 

There are many varieties of home-made yeast, all of 
which require some form of yeast for starting. Who 
made the first yeast, and how can a young housekeeper 



336 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. : 

start her own when at a distance from stores or neigh- 
bors so that she can neither buy nor borrow, are ques- 
tions often asked. The answer to the latter question is, 
simply make a thin batter of flour and water, and let it 
stand in a warm place until it ferments and is full of bub- 
bles. A pint of this "ferment" is equal to a cupful of 
old yeast in starting the new. Yeast made with potatoes 
is always satisfactory, as the potato starch is particularly 
well adapted to yeast fermentation. Potato yeast rises 
rapidly, and it keeps longer without souring than any 
other variety; and bread made with it is sweet and light, 
and does not dry quickly. Porcelain or granite kettles 
are best for boiling the hops and potatoes, and earthen 
bowls and wooden spoons for mixing them, since iron 
and tin darken the yeast. The yeast for starting should 
be light in color, foaming or full of beads, effervescing 
easily when shaken and emitting an odor like weak am- 
monia ; it is poor when it has an acid odor and looks 
watery or has a thin film over the top. This yeast should 
be put away in glass jars as soon as made and kept in a 
cool place, for intense heat or freezing will " kill " it. 
It is a good plan to reserve a portion of the yeast for the 
next rising in a small jar by itself, as opening the jar 
often causes the yeast to lose its strength. 

The next subject to consider in the making of bread is 

THE SPONGE. 

This is made with lukewarm water or milk, yeast and 
flour. The milk used should be scalded and cooled, the 
scalding keeping the sponge from souring. The sponge 
is made either in the evening or in the afternoon, that 
" set " late being light by morning for the kneading of the 



BREAD. 337 

dough, Vv'hile that started in the afternoon becomes light 
and spongy by nine o'clock and can then be kneaded and 
left to rise over night. The question whether dough 
should be kneaded at night or in the morning is one 
which every housekeeper can best decide for herself. 
Setting the sponge in the afternoon has many advan- 
tages. The kneading should not be hurried or slighted 
and should continue at least twenty minutes; when it has 
to be done in the morning, hoMrever, when most house- 
holds are unusually busy, there is less likelihood of its 
being properly performed. Another decided advantage 
of setting the sponge in the afternoon is that it may be 
baked and removed from the oven by ten o'clock the 
next day, thus leaving the oven free for roasting or other 
work attendant upon the noonday dinner, which so many 
housewives the country over find most convenient. 

The sponge should be stirred so thick with flour that a 
spoonful of it will not run from the spoon but will drop 
from it in a rather wet mess. If the sponge will not rise 
and seems watery on the top, sufficient flour has not been 
stirred into it. The sponge should not be allowed to 
stand in a draught of air, but a warm, even temperature 
should, if possible, be maintained. Stir the sponge in a 
clean bright pail that is used for no other purpose, or in 
an earthenware pitcher. If there is a high shelf in the 
kitchen remote from the door, set the pail upon it. One 
practical housewife used to hang her sponge pail on a 
projecting hook of the kind generally used to hang bird 
cages upon. The hook was nailed to a boarding above 
the water tank, upon which the water pipes that supplied 
the upper floor were fastened, and it was out of the 
draught and in a steady temperature. The sponge was 

22 



338 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

not looked at after being set, until it was taken down for 
use ; and it was always satisfactory. 
The next step is 

THE KNEADING. 

Kneading is tiie pressing or working of the dough in 
such a manner that the water and flour may be thor- 
oughly mixed and the yeast, so evenly distributed that the 
fermentation is equal throughout the entire mass. The 
kneading is often done in a mixing-bowl or bread-pan by 
drawing the dough over from the sides and pressing it 
down in the center, but it may be more effectually and 
more easily accomplished on a bread-board. Place some 
of the flour in the bread-pan, work into it whatever butter is 
to be used, and turn in the sponge, rinsing out the pail or 
vessel containing it so that there may be no waste. Mix 
thoroughly, being careful not to make the dough too 
stiff; then flour the board, turn the dough out upon it, 
and rub the pan clean with some of the dry flour, adding 
what may be thus obtained to the dough on the board. 
Work the whole into a ball, having the hands well floured. 
Draw the dough farthest from you up and over toward 
the center, letting the ball of the hand meet the 
dough; then press down firmly, giving the dough some- 
what of a rolling motion, that it may not stick to the 
board. Dust the board and the hands frequently but 
lightly with flour. Use both hands in the same manner. 
When enough smooth texture has been formed through 
the dough it can be worked for some time without a dust- 
ing of flour. The kneading should be continued for not 
less than twenty minutes, as brisk and long working of 
the dough makes the pores fine and regular, while gaping 



BREAD. 339 

holes in bread are the result of too little kneading. 
Wiien the kneading is done, work the dough into a flat, 
round mass, and place it in the center of the bread-pan; 
cover the pan with a cloth and set it in a warm place, 
taking care it is not in a draught of air and that the tem- 
perature is even. There is much force in the lament, 
'• My bread took cold last night," for cold arrests fermen- 
tation. If kneaded at night, the bread will be ready for 
tnnishing early in the morning — as early as six o'clock ; if 
kneaded in the day, it should be allowed five or six hours 
ro rise to the desired lightness, after which it is ready for 

THE MOULDING. 

When the bread has risen to three times its original 
ize, knead it down in the pan, cut it into equal parts, 
place one of these at a time upon the board, and mould it 
into a perfectly smooth, oblong loaf. During this sec- 
ond working only a dusting of flour will be required to 
keep the dough from sticking to the board, if the first 
kneading was sufficiently thorough. Place each loaf in a 
separate pan, which should be eight inches long, four 
inches wide and four inches deep. The pans must be 
well greased. The loaves should reach only half way to 
the top of the pans, which should stand in a warm place 
until the dough reaches the top, when it is ready for 

THE BAKING. 

This is fully as important as the other steps in making 
bread. The oven should not be too hot, and a little ex- 
perience in baking will soon teach the novice when the 
temperature is right. For the unskilled there are many 
wavs of testing: the heat. The baker's method is to 



340 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

throw a little flour on the floor of the oven, and if it 
browns quickly without taking fire, the heat is sufficient; 
or if the hand can be held in the oven while one can 
count twenty, the heat is strong enough. If a thermome- 
ter is used, it should indicate 360°. The bread should 
bake from forty-five to sixty minutes. The dough should 
rise in a round mound above the top of the pan and 
should begin to lightly brown after fifteen minutes. 
Bake according to the clock always, for the baking of 
bread is something that will not take care of itself. It is 
an erroneous idea that anything must not be looked at 
while baking in the oven. Look at the bread frequently, 
and turn it whenever it needs it. When it is well baked, 
it will emit a hollow, empty sound when tapped with the 
fingers. Remove the loaves immediately from the pans 
when done. If left in them or set on a pine table, the 
bread sweats or absorbs the odor of the wood. If crisp 
crust is preferred, do not cover the loaves, but place 
them where the air will circulate about them. A bread 
or cake cooler made of fine wire is a useful article upon 
which to place newly baked bread. If a soft, tender, 
wafer-like consistency is liked in the crust, wrap the 
loaves while still hot in several thicknesses of cloth, and 
when cold, place them in a stone jar or a tin box. Re- 
move the cloth, as it absorbs moisture and gives the 
bread an unpleasant odor and taste. Keep the jar well 
covered ; and scald it every baking-day, airing it thor- 
oughly to receive the fresh bread. 

HOP YEAST. 

One pint of sliced raw jiotatoes. 
One-half pint of hops. 



BREAD. 341 

One quart of water. 

One tea-spoonful of ginger. 
( One yeast cake, or 
j (Jne cupful of yeast. 

One table-spoonful of salt. 

One tea-cupful of sugar. 

Boil the potatoes in a pint of the water, and steep the 
hops for twenty minutes in the other pint, using a gianite- 
ware or porcelain-lined sauce-pan for the purpose. When 
the potatoes are soft, mash them in the water in which 
they were boiled, and when the hops are steeped, strain 
the water from them into the potato water. Add the 
salt, sugar and ginger, and mix all well together. When 
cool, add the dissolved yeast-cake or the Hquid yeast, 
cover the bowl, and let it stand in a warm place until the 
yeast is light and covered with foam. Skim and stir sev- 
eral times. Put the yeast in glass jars or a stone jug, 
sealing it securely. Keep it in a cool place, and shake it 
well before using. The above measurements will not 
make a large quantity. 

LIGHTNING YEAST. 

One quart of boiled potatoes. 
One quart of hot water. 
One quart of cold water. 
One-half tea-cupful of sugar. 
One-quarter tea-cupful of salt. 
Two compressed yeast cakes, or 
One pint of yeast. 

Mash the potatoes fine, and pour the hot water upon 
them. Add the sugar and salt, and stir well until the 
mixture is smooth and creamy. Then pour in the cold 
water, and when the whole is lukewarm, add the dis- 



342 



THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 



solved yeast-cakes or the yeast. Set the yeast in a warm 
place, as directed in the preceding recipe, skim well, and 
set it away in a stone jar. Shake before using. 

RAW POTATO YEAST. 

One-quarter cupful of fiour. 

One-quarter cupful of sugar. 

One table-spoonful of salt. 

Three medium-sized potatoes. 

One to two quarts of boiling water. 
( One cake of compressed yeast, or 
( One cupful of liquid yeast. 

Pare the potatoes, and cover them with cold water. 
Mix the flour, sugar and salt in a large bowl ; then grate 
the potatoes as quickly as possible, not stopping to grate 
every scrap, and mix them at once with the flour, using a 
wooden or silver spoon that the mixture may not be dark- 
ened. Have a good supply of boiling water in the tea- 
kettle, and pour about a pint of it over the grater, rinsing 
off the potato into the bowl. Mix the water thoroughly 
with the potato and flour, then add slowly enough more 
boiling water to make the liquid the consistency of thin 
starch. The exact quantity of water cannot be given, 
as it depends upon the quality of flour and potatoes. 
If it does not thicken, pour the mixture into a double 
boiler or a granite pan, and bring it to the boiling point, 
stirring well to keep it from sticking ; then strain 
through a squash strainer, and let it cool. When luke- 
warm, add the yeast, cover, and keep in a warm place 
until light and well covered with white foam. After the 
veast "o'^'^ ^^ r\'S>^^ beat it well several times, as this 
strengtiicns it greatly. At night or when it is well risen, 



BREAD. 543 

set it away in a cool place, pouring it into wide-mouthed 
earthen jars or in glass jars. Reserve a cupful or more 
in a jar by itself, and do not open it until ready for the 
next yeast making. Shake well before using* Do not 
take the jar into the hot kitchen when yeast is used for 
a baking, but take the measuring cup to the jar. Scald 
the jar when empty, and cover it tightly. 

This is a quick and very easy way of making yeast, fif- 
teen minutes being ample for the first of the work. The 
yeast, which will keep two weeks and makes delicious 
bread, is whiter and more inviting-looking than that made 
with hops. 

LIGHTNING YEAST BREAD. (nO SPONGE.) 

This is one of the easiest methods of bread-making and 
produces excellent bread. The work is all done the 
same day, as it is not necessary to start the sponge over 
night. For two loaves weighing a pound apiece, allow 
a pint of the lightning yeast. Place a quart of flour in 
the bread-pan, sprinkle over it a little salt, make a well in 
the center of the flour, and turn in the yeast. Mix until 
a ball is formed, adding more flour if needed ; then turn 
the dough out upon the bread-board and knead it twenty 
minutes. Return it to the pan, and when quite light and 
fully three times its original size, mould it into two 
loaves, filling the tins but half full of dough. When the 
bread has doubled in size, bake it an hour in a moder- 
ate oven. This is a small quantity, but it will be quite 
enough for a family of five when bread is baked twice a 
week. ^ 

BREAD FROM DRY YEAST. 

The national yeast-cake may always be relied upon for 



344 "^^^ ^^ TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

this bread. The following quantities will make three 
loaves : 

One good-sized raw potato. 

One pint of boiling water. 

One table-spoonful of melted lard. 

One-half a dry yeast-cake. 

One-half table-spoonful of salt. 

One tea-spoonful of sugar. 

Flour. 

Boil the potato in a granite-ware sauce pan, drain off 
the water, mash the potato very smooth, and turn over it 
the boiling water. Stir until the liquid is like cream, and 
set it aside in a bowl. At the same time place the yeast- 
cake to soak in half a cupful of lukewarm water. Do this 
work at three o'clock p. m. At four, place the two ingre- 
dients together in a tin-pail or earthen pitcher, and stir in 
enough flour to make a very thick batter. The batter 
should be too thick to run from the spoon — and should 
be stirred and beaten until perfectly smooth and full of 
bubbles. Set this to rise in an even temperature of at 
least 75°, and it will be light and spongy by nine o'clock. 
Put two quarts of flour in the bread-pan, rub the lard into 
the flour, make a well in the center, and turn into it the 
sponge from the pail. Knead until the dough forms a 
round ball, adding more flour as needed. Turn it out 
upon the breadboard as soon as it has been kneaded so 
that it will not stick to the board, and knead at least 
twenty minutes, adding only enough flour to keep the 
dough from sticking during the work. Return the dough 
to the pan, cover closely with a thick cloth, and leave it 
in a warm place. In the morning mould the dough down, 
divide it into three parts, mould each part until smooth, 



BREAD. 345 

place it in a separate pan and set it in a warm place. 
The loaves should rise to double their size in an hour and 
a-half ; then place them in the oven, and bake an 
hour. Bread made in this way is out of the oven by ten 
o'clock in the morning and is very delicious. Milk may 
be used in place of water to set the sponge, but it 
should first be scalded to prevent it souring in the 
bread. 

COMPRESSED VEAST BREAD. 

To make four large loaves, use 

One quart of boiling water. 
Three large potatoes. 
About seven pints of flour. 
One-third of a cake of yeast. 
One table-spoonful of salt. 

Cook potatoes for thirty minutes, and drain well ; 
mash them, pour the boiling water over them and set 
away to cool. When lukewarm, add the dissolved yeast- 
cake and three quarts of the flour, beating the flour in 
with a spoon. Cover the bowl with a cloth and then 
with a board, and let its contents rise over night. In the 
morning add the salt and half the remaining flour, the 
rest of the flour being used for kneading the bread on 
the board. Turn the dough out upon the board, and 
knead it for twenty minutes ; then return it to the bowl, 
cover, and let it rise to double its original size. Shape it 
into loaves, moulding them smooth ; and when they have 
risen to double their original size, bake for an hour. 
The addition of a table-spoonful of sugar and one of 
lard or butter improves the bread for some tastes, and, if 



346 THE PATTERA' COOK-L:OOJv. 

used, should be worked in with the salt when the bread is 
kneaded. 

ENTIRE WHEAT BREAD. 

Entire wheat is very different from Graham. Graham 
is coarsely ground wheat meal, while entire wheat is 
made from the whole wheat, the husk being discarded. 
The latter makes a brown loaf or roll, but a delicious one, 
smooth and fine. For two large loaves of bread, use 

Two quarts of flour. 

One and a-half pint of warm water. 

One table-spoonful of sugar. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One-half table-spoonful of salt. 

One-half cake of compressed j-east, or 

One-half cupful of home-made yeast. 

Measure the flour before sifting ; then sift it into a 
bowl, setting aside one cupful to be used in kneading the 
bread later. Add the sugar and salt to the flour, dissolve 
the yeast (if the compressed is used) in a little of the 
water, and pour it and the rest of the water into the bowl ; 
lastly add the butter, slightly softened. Beat the dough 
vigorously with a spoon, and when smooth and light, 
sprinkle the board with some of the flour reserved, turn 
out the dough upon it, and knead it for twenty minutes. 
Return the dough to the board, and set it to rise over 
night. This will take about six or eight hours, if the 
bread is started in the morning. When the dough is 
light, turn it out upon the board, divide it into two loaves, 
mould them smooth, place them in well greased pans, 
and set them in a warm place. When the loaves have 
doubled in size, bake for an hour. 



BREAD. 



RYE BREAD. 



347 



This is made the same as the preceding, except that 
rye flour is used instead of the entire wheat. 

GRAHAM BREAD. 

The quantities given below will make two medium-sized 
loaves. 

One pint of water. 

Wheat flour. 
( One yeast-cake, or 
( One cupful of yeast. 

About nine at night dissolve the yeast-cake in the 
water, which should be lukewarm ; and add enough wheat 
flour to thicken it to a stiff batter. Stir and beat the 
batter thoroughly for five minutes, leaving it full of 
bubbles ; and set it in a warm place to rise. In the 
morning add 

Two cupfuls o^ molasses. 
One tea-spoonful of soda. 
Two tea-spoonfuls of salt. 
Graham flour. 

Dissolve the soda in a little cold water, slightly warm 
the molasses, and add to it the soda. Stir the salt into 
the sponge, and beat well with a strong spoon ; then put 
in the molasses and soda, and when these have been 
thoroughly beaten in with the sponge, add Graham flour 
until a very thick mixture is formed. This is not kneaded 
like other kinds of yeast bread, but should be so thick 
with graham as to be difficult to stir. Beat the batter 
well for three or four minutes, turn it into two well 



348 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

greased tins, and set it in a warm place ; when it has 
risen to be half again its original size, bake an hour in a 
rather slow oven. This bread will not rise so rapidly as 
that made of wheat flour, as it has more " body " to carry. 
It is mixed so soft that the dough takes the form of the 
pans in which it is baked. The success of graham bread 
depends largely upon thorough beating. 

RYE-AND-INDIAN BREAD. 

Three cupfuls of rye flour. 
Two cupfuls of Indian meal. 
One cupful of molasses. 
One pint of water. 
One tea-spoonful of soda. 
One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Sift the two kinds of meal well together, adding the 
salt. Slightly warm the water, dissolve the soda in it, 
add the molasses, and when these are well mixed, stir in 
the meal, a little at a time. Beat well until the whole is 
thoroughly mixed. Then place the batter in a round tin, 
set this in a steamer, and steam for four hours over a 
kettle of boiling water. If a crust is preferred, bake the 
bread half an hour after the steaming. The batter must 
be steamed immediately after it is mixed or it will be 
heavy. 

RAISED BROWN BREAD. 

One pint of corn meal. 

One-half cupful of yeast, or one-half a cake. 

One-half cupful of molasses. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt 

One salt-spoonful of soda. 

One pint of rye-meal. 



BREAD. 349 

Place the corn meal in a mixing-bowl, and scald it with 
just enough boiling water to wet it. Let it stand ten 
minutes ; then put in cold water enough to make a soft 
batter. When the batter is lukewarm, add the yeast and 
the molasses, the soda dissolved in a little cold water, 
the salt and the rye-meal. Beat the mixture well, and let 
it rise over night ; or if made in the morning, let it rise 
until it cracks open. Then stir it down, put it in a but- 
tered and floured tin to rise again, and sprinkle flour over 
the top. Bake in a moderate oven for two hours. This 
recipe is very reliable. 

CORN BREAD. 

Two eggs. 

One and a-half cupful of milk. 

One large cupful of corn meal. 

One-half cupful of wheat flour. 

One and a-half table-spoonful of melted butter. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs first separately, 
and then together. Sift the flour and meal well together, 
put in the powder, and sift again. Place the milk in 
a cake bowl, add to it the beaten yolks, the salt and 
the sugar, and then the meal and flour. Mix all 
very thoroughly together, and when well beaten stir 
in the beaten whites. Bake half an hour in a well 
buttered tin. The above quantities will make one 
medium-sized loaf, and the bread is always good. It is 
most palatable when warm, but it can be steamed and 
warmed over after it is cold, so that it will be almost as 
good as at first. 



350 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

BREAKFAST BREAD. 

One-half cupful of butter. 

One cupful of sugar. 

Three eggs. 

One quart of milk. 

Five and a-half cupfuls of tiour. 

One-half cupful of Indian meal. 

Five tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

This makes quite a large quantity. Rub the butter and 
sugar to a cream, and add the beaten eggs. When these 
are well mixed, stir in the milk gradually. Sift the flour, 
meal and baking powder together, sifting two or three 
times to make sure the powder is well distributed. Stir 
the flour into the mixture, beating thoroughly, and bake 
half an hour in well buttered pans. 

FRENCH ROLLS. 

These may be prepared with little trouble by making 
a little larger -quantity of the bread dough. After knead- 
ing the dough for the usual time, set aside enough for a 
pan of rolls, usually a pint. Work into this portion a 
large table-spoonful of butter or lard, and let it stand in 
a moderately cool place for four hours ; knead it again, 
and let it stand three hours more ; then form the 
dough into rolls by rolling it out very lightly, cutting the 
rolls out with a biscuit cutter, and folding them not quite 
in the center, like turn-overs. The third rising will take 
an hour, after which bake the rolls half an hour in a 
quick oven. 

PARKER HOUSE ROLLS. 

For eighteen good-sized rolls 2iS\^m 



BREAD. 351 

Two scanty quarts of flour. 

One pint of milk. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of salt. 

Two table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter or lard. 
\ One-half cupful of yeast, or 
( One-half a cake of compressed yeast. 

Boil the milk, and set it to cool. Sift the fiour into a 
mixing-bowl, rub the butter, sugar and salt into it, make 
a well in the center, and turn into it the cold milk, and 
the yeast-cake dissolved in a little water. Sprinkle the 
top of the milk with a little of the flour, cover the bowl, 
and leave the whole on the kitchen table until morning. 
In the morning mix the mass together with a spoon, 
then knead the dough for twenty minutes, return it to the 
bowl, cover, and set it to rise in a warm place. When 
it has become three times as large as at first (generally 
in about three hours j, turn it out on the bread-board, and 
roll it to a thickness of half an inch. Cut the dough 
with a round cutter, place a round stick the size of a 
slate-pencil on a roll about one-third its width from one 
side, press with the stick until the dough under it is about 
half as thick as it was before, and fold the shorter side of 
the roll over ; repeat this process with each roll. Half a 
tea-spoonful of butter may be spread between the folds of 
each roll, if liked. Place the rolls in buttered pans, 
cover with a cloth, and let them rise an hour and a- 
half ; they should then be more than double their original 
size. Bake twenty minutes in a hot oven. In making 
the rolls be careful not to mix the flour with the 3'east 
and milk until the latter have stood several hours. Care 
is needed in measuring the ingredients, as nothing should 



352 THE PA TTERN CO OK-B O OK. 

be added afterward. If the rolls are desired for the even- 
ing meal begin them at eight o'clock, knead the dough 
at twelve or one, set it to rise until half-past three, then 
make it into rolls, which may rise in a cool place until 
twenty minutes of six ; they may thus be baked by six 
o'clock. If wanted for luncheon at one o'clock, set 
them at seven, doubling the quantity of yeast to hurry 
them ; knead the dough at nine, and shape into rolls at 
eleven. They should then be ready to bake at twenty 
minutes of one. 

WHITE MOUNTAIN ROLLS. 

Two quarts of flour. 

One and a-half pint of milk. 

Two eggs (whites). 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Three table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

One-half cupful of butter. 

One-half cupful of yeast, or one-half a cake. 

Sift the flour into a bowl, and add to it the salt and 
sugar. Boil the milk, and while it is still hot, put in the 
butter to melt. When the milk is cooled to blood heat, 
add the beaten whites of the eggs and the yeast, and stir 
the mixture into the flour, beating vigorously with a 
spoon. Knead well for twenty minutes, and set the 
dough to rise over night. In the morning take pieces of 
dough the size of an 'tg^, shape them into long rolls, and 
place them side by side in a shallow pan that has been 
well greased ; when they have risen to a little more than 
double their original size, bake for half an hour. The 
rolls will brown quickly and should be covered with 
paper as soon as they begin to brown. 



READ. 



SWEDISH ROLLS. 



353 



Make half the quantity of dough directed in the pre- 
ceding recipe, roll it very thin, sprinkle lightly with 
water or spread with butter, and then sprinkle with sugar 
and cinnamon, using three table-spoonfuls of sugar and 
one of cinnamon. Roll the sheet the same as jelly-roll, 
and cut the roll into slices an inch thick. Put these 
slices into a well buttered pan, and when double their 
original size, bake for twenty minutes. The cinnamon 
may be omitted and the dough sprinkled with sugar and 
a cupful of dried currants. These rolls are much Hked 
with coffee. 

BUNS, NO. I. 

Two cupfuls of milk. 

Two table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

Two eggs. 

Two salt-spoonfuls of salt. 

Four cupfuls of flour, 
j One-half cupful of yeast, or 
I One-half a cake. 

Scald the milk, and w'hen cool, put in the yeast and 
salt. Beat the eggs well, add the sugar to them, and stir 
both into the yeast and milk. Lastly stir in the flour, 
beat well, and set the sponge in a warm place to rise over 
night. In the morning add flour to make a stiff dough, 
knead fifteen minutes, and replace it in the pan to rise. 
When the dough is light add 

One-half cupful of butter. 

One cupful of currants. 

One salt-spoonful of cinnamon or nutmeg. 

Let the dough rise again until light, shape it into small, 
23 



354 '^^^ ^^ TTERN CO OK-B O OK. 

round cakes, place these close together, and when well 
risen, bake them twenty or thirty minutes in a moderate 
oven. Glaze the buns with sugar and milk, or with the 
white of an egg beaten stiff, with sugar added. These 
buns are only good when fresh. 

BUNS NO. 2. 

One pint of bread dough. 

One egg. 

One-half cupful of sugar. 

Butter the size of an egg. 

One-half cupful of French currants. 

One-half nutmeg, grated. . 

Mix the butter with the dough, working it in thor- 
oughly ; then add the sugar, spice, fruit and egg. When 
all is well mixed, roll out the dough half an inch thick, 
cut it into round cakes with a biscuit-cutter, place these 
in a well buttered tin, and leave them in a warm place to 
rise. When doubled in size, bake ; and while still hot, 
brush over the top with syrup, to glaze. 

EASTER BUNS. ("HOT CROSS.") 

The dough for these is made the same as in 
Buns No. I, except that half a cupful of sugar is 
used instead of the quantity given, and the currants and 
egg are omitted. Roll the dough half an inch thick, cut 
it into round cakes, and lay them in rows two inches 
apart in a buttered baking-pan. When they have risen 
to more than double their original size, make a cross 
upon each with a sharp knife, and put them at once in 
the oven. Bake twenty minutes, having the oven very 
hot ; and glaze as above directed. 



BREAD. 355 

RUSKS. 

Two cupfuls of milk. 

One cupful of sugar. 

One cupful of yeast. 

One cupful of butter. 

Two eggs. 

One-half tea-spoonful of soda. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Flour. 

At night scald the milk, and while it is cooling add the 
sugar and salt. When lukewarm, put in the yeast, and 
enough flour to make a thick batter ; then cover and set 
in a warm place. In the morning work the butter into 
the dough, and add the eggs, well beaten, and the soda, 
dissolved in a little cold water. Add flour enough to 
admit of rolling the dough out with a rolling-pin. Roll it 
half an inch thick, cut out the rusks with a biscuit-cutter, 
place them in a buttered pan, and when risen to more 
than double the original size, bake them thirty minutes in 
a moderate oven. 

RAISED BISCUIT. 

These are easily made for tea when bread has been 
made, and the following quantities will make two good- 
sized panfuls of biscuit. 

One pint of bread dough. 
One scanty pint of milk. 
Two eggs. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 
Four table-spoonfuls of sugar. 
One tea-spoonful of salt. 
One quart of flour. 



356 THE FA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Mix all these ingredients but the flour in a bowl, cut- 
ting the dough with a knife ; then add the flour, measur- 
ing generously. Knead well, and set the dough in a warm 
place for six hours. Work it down at the end of that 
time, turn it out on a floured board, and roll it a-quarter 
of an inch thick. Cut the dough with a biscuit-cutter, 
place half of the cakes in buttered pans, and spread a lit- 
tle soft butter upon each ; then take fresh cakes from the 
board, and put them on top of those already in the pan. 
Cover the whole with a clean towel, and set in a rather 
cool place, the temperature being about 65°. When the 
biscuits are double their original size (which should be in 
two hours), bake in a rather hot oven for thirty minutes. 

STALE BREAD. 

Bread should never be thrown away, nor should any 
crusts be burned or thrown into the garbage barrel, as is 
often done in many households. They should be placed 
in a pan and dried very slowly in the oven, the door being 
left open. When dry enough to crumble between the 
fingers, put the crusts in a bag made of strong cloth or 
ticking. Then pound the bag with a wooden mallet 
until the crusts are reduced to fine crumbs. Sift these 
crumbs, and put them away in boxes or glass jars : they 
will then be ready for breading purposes whenever 
needed. Whole slices of stale bread may always be used 
for toast ; and there are many recipes here given that 
require bread for the making, such as pies, puddings, 
stuffings, etc. With a little management each week there 
will be no stale bread left over either to be thrown away 
by a wasteful cook or to make an unnecessary amount of 
crumbs. 



BREAD. 357 

TO WARM OVER BREAD AND ROLLS. 

A Stale loaf may be made very light and fresh in the 
following manner: Dip the loaf quickly in enough cold 
water to completely submerge it. Then set it on a pie- 
tin in the oven to heat ; this will require fifteen or twenty 
minutes for a loaf of ordinary size. Rolls and biscuit 
may be warmed in the same way and are much more sat- 
isfactory than when steamed. 



BREAKFAST DISHES. 

BISCUIT, GEMS, ETC. 
Then to breakfast, with what appetite you have. 



Shakspere. 

BISCUIT. (baking powder.) 

One quart of flour, 

Two heaping tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

Sweet milk to moisten. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Two even table-spoonfuls of lard. 

Place the salt in the flour, which should be measured 
before it is sifted ; stir well, add the baking powder, and 
sift once more. Rub the lard into the flour, using the 
back of a spoon ; and when it is thoroughly mixed with 
the flour, add the milk to moisten. The dough should 
be just moist enough so that it will not stick to the 
board ; it should not be at all hard, or the biscuit will be 
hard and dry. 

Mold the dough a moment, sprinkling the board with 
flour; and when it forms a smooth ball roll it out an 
inch thick. Cut the sheet into cakes with a small round 
cutter, and place these in an ungreased tin. Bake thirty 
minutes in a moderately quick oven. This quantity will 

3S8 



BREAKFAST DISHES. 359 

make one dozen large biscuits, or eighteen if cut with a 
small cutter. Some cooks prefer butter to lard in making 
biscuit, but if the lard is perfectly sweet it is much better 
than butter. 

BISCUIT. (cream of TARTAR.) 

These are made the same as the preceding, except that 
in place of the baking powder are used 

One tea-spoonful of soda. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of cream of tartar. 

Grind the soda perfectly smooth on a plate, using a 
spoon or knife, and mix it with the flour and cream of 
tartar, sifting as directed. Care is required in the use of 
soda, for if is not perfectly pulverized, the biscuit will be 
yellow and most disappointing. 

BISCUIT. (sour milk.) 

Make the same as the baking-powder biscuit, but use 
one even tea-spoonful of pulverized soda instead of the 
baking powder, and moisten with sour milk instead of 
sweet. The milk should be unmistakably sour, but need 
not be very thick, to insure success. 

BISCUIT. (sour cream.) 

Make the same as the baking-powder biscuit, but omit 
the butter, and substitute a tea-spoonful of soda for the 
baking powder. The cream should be rich. 

BISCUIT. (SWEET CREAM.) 

These are made the same as the baking-powder biscuit, 
omitting the butter. As in the last recipe, the cream 
should be rich. 



360 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

MARYLAND BEATEN BISCUIT. 

One quart of flour. 
One-quarter cupful of lard. 
One-half tea-spoonful salt. 
One cupful of cold water. 

Rub the lard and salt into the flour, and mix all with 
the water until a stiff dough is formed. Knead ten min- 
utes, then beat hard with a biscuit-beater or heavy rolling- 
pin, turning the mass over and over until it begins to 
blister and looks light and puffy, or until, pulling off a 
piece quickly will give a sharp, snapping sound. When 
the dough is in this condition pull off small pieces sud- 
denly, and form it into round biscuits ; then pinch off a 
bit from the top of each, turn the biscuit over, and press it 
with the thumb, leaving a hollow in the middle. Arrange 
the biscuit some distance apart in the pans, prick them 
with a fork, and bake twenty minutes in a quick oven. 
They should be light and of even grain and should crack 
at the edges like crackers. 

SWEDISH BISCUIT. 

One quart of flour. 

Six table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter or lard. 

One cupful of dried currants. 

Three tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One tea-spoonful of nutmeg. 

One pint of milk. 

Place the flour, salt, baking powder and three spoon- 
fuls of the sugar in a flour-sieve, and sift all thoroughly. 
Rub the butter into this mixture, wet the latter with the 



BREAKFAST DISHES. 36 1 

milk, and stir the dough quickly into the shape of a ball. 
Sprinkle the board with flour, and roll the dough until it 
is one-third of an inch thick. Sprinkle upon this sheet of 
dough the three remaining spoonfuls of sugar, sift the 
nutmeg over the sugar, and spread the currants over all. 
Roll up the dough, and cut it into slices about an inch 
thick. Place the slices in a well buttered baking-tin, and 
bake twenty minutes. The currants may be omitted, if 
not cared for. 

GRAHAM GEMS. (sOUR MILK.) 

The following quantities will make one dozen gems of 
medium size. 

One tea-cupful of sour milk. 

One egg. 

One-half tea-spoonful of soda. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

Two table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

One and a half table-spoonfuls of melted butter. 

Graham flour to thicken. 

Beat the egg until light, and add to it the milk, sugar 
and salt, and the soda dissolved in a little cold water. 
Stir well, adding graham flour sufficient to make a batter 
so thick that it will not run off the spoon. Lastly add 
the melted butter, and stir well. Heat the gem pans, and 
oil them well, using a little butter placed in a clean 
cloth, and rubbing it over the pan when heated. Drop 
enough of the mixture into each space in the pan to a 
little more than half fill it, and bake twenty minutes in a 
hot oven. 



362 THE PA TtEkN COOJ^-BOOJC. 

GRAHAM GEMS. (SWEET MILK.) 

One quart of graham flour. 

Two eggs. 

Butter the size of an egg. 

Three tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One table-spoonful of sugar. 

Milk to moisten. 

Mix the salt, sugar, powder and flour well together by 
sifting all through a sieve ; then add the eggs, well 
beaten, and the melted butter. Stir in enough sweet 
milk to make a thick batter, and bake twenty minutes in 
well heated and oiled gem-pans. 

BREAD GEMS. 

One pint of stale bread-crumbs. 

One and a-half cupful of sifted flour. 

One table-spoonful of melted butter. 

One pint of milk. 

Two eggs. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Soak the crumbs in the milk for half an hour. Beat 
the whites and the yolks of the eggs separately ; add the 
yolks to the bread and milk, then the melted butter and 
the salt, and mix all well together. Stir in the flour, beat 
until smooth, and stir in carefully the whites of the eggs 
and the baking powder. Bake thirty minutes in heated 
and oiled gem-pans. 



GRAHAM GEMS, WITHOUT EGGS. 

One cupful of sugar. 
Three cupfuls of sour milk. 



BREAK FAS 7^ DISHES. 363 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 
Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 
One tea-spoonful of soda. 
Graham flour to thicken. 

Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the soda, 
well powdered, then the milk, and lastly the flour to 
thicken. Bake twenty minutes in well heated and oiled 
gem-pans. 

CORN GEMS. 

The following quantities will make two dozen gems : 

Two cupfuls of corn meal. 

One cupful of flour. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

Three eggs. 

One cupful of cold sweet milk. 

One cupful 01 boiling sweet milk. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Place the corn meal in a mixing-bowl, put the butter in 
the center, and pour over it the boiling milk. Stir well, 
and add the cold milk, the eggs, well beaten, the salt, and 
the flour, in which the baking powder has been well 
mixed. Stir well to mix thoroughly. Bake thirty min- 
utes in well oiled and heated gem-pans. 

TEA GEMS. 

One pint of floui. 

One-half cupful (scant) of sugar. 

Two eggs. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One table-spoonful of melted butter. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Milk to make a thick batter. 



364 THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK. 

Stir the powder, sugar and salt into the flour, and sift 
all through a sieve. Add the melted butter and the well- 
beaten eggs, stir the mixture well, and add enough milk 
to thin it to a thick batter. Bake twenty minutes in well 
oiled and heated gem-pans. 

RICE GEMS. 

Two cupfuls of sweet milk. 

One cupful of sugar. 

One large cupful of boiled rice. 

Flour to thicken. 

One egg. 

Two table-spoonfuls of melted butter. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Three tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the 
beaten eggs, then the milk and then the rice and salt. 
Stir well, mixing thoroughly. Sift the powder with a 
little flour, add it to the mixture, .nd stir in more flour as 
needed to make a rather stiff batter. Bake thirty min- 
utes in heated and oiled gem-pans. 

GRAHAM PUFFS. 

One egg. 

One cupful of wheat flour. 

Two cupfuls of graham flour. 

Two-thirds cupful of sugar. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One pint of sweet milk. 

Three tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, add the beaten 
egg, then the salt and lastly the milk, stirring all well 



BREAKFAST DISHES. 365 

together. Sift together the two kinds of flour and the 
baking powder, and add them to the mixture. Bake 
twenty minutes in heated and oiled gem-pans. 

WHEAT PUFFS. 

Two eggs. 

One pint of sweet milk. 

One table-spoonful of melted butter. 

One tea-spoonful of baking powder. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Flour to thicken. 

Beat the eggs, and add them to the milk. Stir in the 
melted butter and the salt, and add flour to thicken to a 
rather stiff batter. Bake twenty minutes the same as 
gems. These puffs are particularly nice with coffee, as 
they contain no sugar. 

POP-OVERS. 

Two tea-cupfuls of sweet milk. 
Two tea-cupfuls of sifted flour. 
Two eggs. 

One table-spoonful of sugar. 
One tea-spoonful of salt. 
Two tea-spoonfuls of butter. 

Place the salt, sugar and flour together, and rub the 
butter into the mixture. Beat the eggs light, add the milk 
to the dry mixture, and then stir in the eggs. Bake in 
hor gem.-pans twenty minutes. 

MUFFINS. 

These are made very much like gems, but the batter is 
left thinner, and they are usually baked in muffin-rings. 



366 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.' 

The batter should be just thhi enough to pour from a 
spoon, but not so thin as to float the rings. 

GRAHAM MUFFINS. 

Two cupfuls of graham flour. 

One cupful of sweet milk. 

One-third cupful of sugar. 

One egg. 

One tea-spoonful of baking powder 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

Stir the sugar, salt and baking powder together, and 
sift them with the flour through a flour sieve. Add the 
milk to the mixture, and when well stirred, add the beaten 
egg. Bake twenty minutes in muffin-rings. 

CORN MUFFINS, NO. I. 

Three eggs. 

Two cupfuls of sweet milk. 

One cupful of flour. 

Two cupfuls of Indian meal. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

Four table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Three tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

Stir the sugar, salt and butter to a cream, and add the 
beaten egg and the milk, stirring well. Sift the meal, 
flour and powder together, and add them to the mixture. 
Stir well, and bake in muffln-rings. 

CORN MUFFINS, NO. 2. 

The following ingredients will make fifteen muffins : 

One cupful of corn meal. 
Five cupfuls of boiling water. 



BREAKFAST DISHES. 367 

Two table-spoonfuls of sugar. 
One table-spoonful of butter. 
One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Place the butter, sugar, meal and salt together in the 
top vessel of a double boiler (a tin pail may be used, set- 
ting it in a kettle of hot water), turn the boiling water 
upon the meal, stir until smooth, and cook an hour. Do 
this at night, if the muffins are required for breakfast. 
Turn the batter, when cooked, into a small mixing-bowl, 
and pour over it a-quarter of a cupful of cold water; 
this prevents a crust forming, and should not be stirred 
in until morning. In the morning beat the batter up soft 
and smooth, an.d add 

One and a-half cupful of corn meal. 
One cupful of wheat flour. 
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 
One egg. 

Sift the two kinds of flour and the baking powder to- 
gether, and stir them into the mixture, adding the egg 
well beaten, at the last. Bake in rings or in gem-pans. 

WHEAT MUFFINS. 

One egg. 

Butter the size of an egg. 

One table-spoonful of sugar. 

One cupful of milk. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Flour to thicken. 

Rub the sugar and butter to a cream, and add the ^gg, 
well beaten, and then the milk and salt. Sift the baking 
powder with a little flour, stir it into the mixture, and add 



^68 THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK. 

enough flour to make a batter. Bake twenty minutes in 
well-oiled muffin-rings. 

CORN AND RYE MUFFINS. 

These are made the same as Corn Muffins, No. 2, add- 
ing, instead of ihe flour and meal in the morning, 

One cupful of corn meal. 
One cupful of rye flour. 
One cupful of wheat flour. 

RICE MUFFINS. 

One pint of flour. 

One table-spoonful of sugar. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One cupful of cold cooked rice. 

Two eggs. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-half pint of milk. 

Mix the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in a sieve, 
and rub them all through. Rub the butter into the flour 
thoroughly, and beat the eggs light. Add the milk to the 
dry mixture, and when smooth stir in the rice. Beat again 
thoroughly, add ihe eggs, and bake quickly for thirty-five 
minutes, either in gem-pans or muffin-rings. 

WAFFLES. 

A waffle-iron is made of two iron griddles fitted and 
fastened together at one side with a hinge. Each griddle 
is divided into compartments, which are usually grooved 
into diamonds, hearts, rounds, etc. (See " Kitchen Uten- 
sils," page 3f.) If the waffle-iron has not been used for 



BREAKFAST DISHES. 369 

some time, wash it thoroughly with soap and water, wipe 
it dry, and rub well with dry salt. The iron should be 
placed over the fire, heated on each side, and greased 
carefully, as it is very hard to clean if the cakes stick to it. 
Put a piece of salt pork on a fork, or a small piece of 
butter in a clean rag, and rub this all over both griddles ; 
the heat will melt the butter and let just enough of it 
through the cloth, so that this method is much better than 
applying the butter with a knife. Close the griddles and 
turn them that the fat may be distributed equally. Have 
the waffle batter in a pitcher so that the filling may be 
done quickly, and fill each compartment two-thirds full. 
Cover with the other griddle, cook one minute, turn the 
iron, and cook a little longer on that side. It takes but 
a little over two minutes to cook waffles. When done, 
carefully remove them from the irons, place them on a 
hot dish, and serve at once. Any kind of griddle-cake« 
batter, with the addition of the extra oiling to make the 
cakes crisp, may be cooked in a waffle-iron, if one does 
not regard the extra labor it involves. 

WHEAT WAFFLES. 

Four eggs. 

One quart of milk. 

One large table-spoonful of butter. 

Three tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Flour to thicken. 

Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs separately, melt 

the butter, stir it into the yolks, and add the salt, the 

milk and the whites of the eggs, stirring well. Beat in 

quickly the flour, a little of which should be mixed with 

24 



370 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

the baking powder. The batter should be just thin 
enough to pour. Bake in a waffle-iron, as previously di- 
rected. This is a large recipe. 

PLAIN RAISED WAFFLES. 

One quart of flour. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Three eggs. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

One-half cupful of yeast, or one-half a cake of compressed yeast. 

One and a-half pint of milk. 

Scald the milk and cool it. Rub the butter into the 
flour, and add the salt, the cooled milk and the yeast. 
Beat the mixture well for three minutes, cover, and let it 
stand in a warm place until light, generally over night. 
In the morning beat the whites and yolks of the eggs 
separately, add the yolks to the batter and then the 
whites, stirring well. Let the batter stand fifteen min- 
utes, and then cook in a waffle-iron. 

CORN-MEAL WAFFLES. 

One cupful of flour. 
One cupful of corn meal. 
Two cupfuls of sour milk. 
One-half cupful of sour cream. 
One-half tea- spoonful of salt. 
One tea-spoonful of soda. 
One table-spoonful of cold water. 
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar. 
Two eggs. 

Mix the sugar, salt, meal and flour. Beat the eggs 
light. Dissolve the soda in the cold water, and stir it 
into the sour cream and milk. Pour the liquid upon the 



BREAKFAST DISHES. 3 7 1 

"dry mixture, add the eggs after stirring well, and bake in 
waffle-irons. Should there be no sour cream at hand, use 
two and a-hal£ cupfuls of sour milk and a table-spoonful 
of melted butter, measured after melting. 

GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

A soap-stone griddle is the best for this purpose as it 
does not require greasing ; but it should be allowed twice 
the length of time to heat through that would be required 
to heat an iron griddle. If an iron griddle is used, put a 
small piece of fat salt pork on a fork, and when the grid- 
dle is hot enough for the fat to sizzle, rub it all over with 
the pork, greasing it plentifully and evenly. Many prefer 
an iron griddle, because the fat used in oiling it imparts a 
delicate crispness to the cakes. A turnip, cut in half, is 
also excellent for rubbing the griddle before frying cakes, 
and is preferred by those who do not care for much rich- 
ness in the cakes. Take up a spoonful of the batter and 
pour it on the griddle from the end of the spoon ; the 
batter should hiss as it touches the griddle. Watch the 
cakes carefully. When those first put on are full of bub- 
bles they are ready to turn ; and generally when all have 
been turned the first are ready to take off the griddle. 
Turn the griddle often, bringing each edge of it in turn 
over the hottest part of the stove, that the cakes may cook 
evenly. 

SWEET MILK GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

One and a-half pint of milk. 

Two eggs. 

Flour to make a batter. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One tea-spoonful of melted butter. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 



3/2 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Beat the eggs well, and stir them into the milk. Add 
the salt and baking powder, and enough flour to thicken, 
and lastly, stir in the melted butter. Too much flour 
should not be used, if a light, thin cake is desired. It is 
wise to bake one cake first, to see if the batter is thick 
enough and the griddle sufficiently heated. 

SOUR MILK GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

These are made the same as the preceding, except that 
sour milk is used instead of sweet, and a tea-spoonful of 
soda dissolved in a table-spoonful of cold water takes the 
place of the baking-powder. 

BREAD GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

These are especially well liked by people fond of 
griddle-cakes. The following quantities will be enough 
for five persons : 

One pint of sweet milk. 

One and a-half pint of bread-crumbs. 

Two eggs. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Flour to thicken. 

If the crumbs are hard, soak them over night in the 
milk; if soft, they may be soaked for half an hour in the 
morning. When they are soft, turn them with the milk 
into a colander, and mash the bread through it. Add 
the beaten eggs, salt, powder and flour, and the batter is 
ready to fry. If an iron griddle is used to cook these 
cakes, it should be oiled a little more than usual. The 
cakes are very tender and should.be turned carefully; 
and they require longer frying than any other kind. 



BREAKFAST DISHES. 373 

RICE GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

One pint of boiled rice. 

Two pints of milk. 

One and a-half pint of flour. 

Three eggs. 

One tea-spoonful of baking powder. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One table -spoonful of sugar. 

One table-spoonful of melted butter. 

Put the cooked rice to soak over night in a pint of 
the milk, and in the morning add the flour, salt, sugar 
and butter. Beat the mixture well, and add the eggs, 
well beaten, and the other pint of milk, into which the 
baking powder has been stirred. This makes quite 
enough cakes for six or seven persons. 

CORN-MEAL GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

One-half pint of corn meal. 

One-half pint of flour. 

One pint of boiling water. 

One and a-half cupful of sweet milk. 

One tea-spoonful of baking powder. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Two eggs. 

Put the meal, sugar and salt in a mixing-bowl, and 
pour over them the boiling water. Beat thoroughly, and 
add the cold milk. When the mixture is quite cool stir 
in the flour and baking powder, mixing well ; and lastly 
add the eggs, well beaten. The cakes should be small, 
well browned and thoroughly cooked, and they need a 
little longer frying than ^yheat griddle-cakes. 



374 ^-^^ PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

GRAHAM GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

One cupful of graham flour. 

One cupful of wheat flour. 

One pint of sour milk. 

Two eggs. 

One table-spoonful of sugar. 

Two table-spoonfuls of cold water. 

One large table-spoonful of melted butter. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One tea-spoonful of soda. 

Mix the two kinds of flour together, and add the sugar 
and salt. Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs sepa- 
rately, then dissolve the soda in the water, and stir it into 
the milk. Add the liquid to the dry mixture, and when 
well stirred put in the beaten egg and the butter. The 
batter is then ready to fry. 

BUCKWHEAT CAKES. 

There is nothing cooked that is more variable than 
buckwheat cakes. One day they may be perfectly good 
and the next wholly disappointing, although there may 
be no apparent cause for the difference. It should be 
borne in mind that it is difficult to make them light and 
dry when they are made wholly of buckwheat flour, and 
that batter raised with fresh yeast will not be so good as 
that raised with some of the unused batter of the previous 
day. Following is a very reliable recipe for buckwheat 
cakes : 

One pint of buckwheat flour. 

One-half cupful of Indian meal. 

One-half cupful of yeast, or one-half cake of compressed yeast. 

One pint of warm water. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One table-spoonful of molasses. 



BREAKFAST DISHES. 375 

Beat the batter thoroughly, and place it where it will 
rise over night ; it should rise and fall again by morning. 
In the morning add a tea-spoonful of finely powdered 
soda, stir well, and fry. If the cakes are desired three 
times a week, fresh yeast will not be required after the 
first making, if a little more than a pint of the batter is 
reserved each time in a cool place and used instead of 
the yeast. Always put molasses in these cakes as it 
helps to give them a fine brown appearance in frying. 

BUCKWHEAT CAKES, WITH BREAD. 

Two cupfuls of buckwheat. 

Two and a-half cupfuls of warm water. 

One cupful of stale bread. 

One cupful of milk. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-half cake of compressed yeast. 

Dissolve the yeast in half a cupful of the water, put this 
with the rest of the water, and pour all upon the buck- 
wheat. Add the salt, beat well for ten minutes, cover 
the batter, and set it to rise. Place the bread in a bowl 
with the milk, and let it soak over night in a cool place. 
In the morning mash it fine and light, and add it to the 
risen buckwheat. The batter is then ready to fry. 



FRENCH PANCAKES. (nO SODA.) 

Three eggs. 

One cupful of milk. 

One-half cupful of flour. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One tea-spoonful of sugar. 

One-half table-spoonful of salad oil. 



37^ THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Beat the yolks and the whites of the eggs separately, 
add the milk, salt and sugar to the yolks, pour one-third 
of this mixture on the flour, and stir it to a smooth paste. 
Then add the remainder, beat well, and stir in the oil and 
the beaten whites. Heat and butter a small frying-pan, 
and pour into it enough of the mixture to cover the bot- 
tom. When this side is brown, turn and brown the 
other side. When done lay each cake on a warm plate, 
spread it with butter and sugar or jelly, roll it up, sprinkle 
with powdered sugar, and serve. 

HOE CAKES. 

The old colored cooks in the South used to make these 
to perfection and bake them on their hoes, whence the 
name. 

One pint of corn meal. 
One-half ea-spoonful of salt. 

Place the corn meal and salt in a bowl, and pour in 
sufficient boiling water to moisten the meal. After it 
has stood ten minutes, add cold water until the mixture 
will drop from the spoon. Bake the same as griddle- 
cakes on a hot griddle or a hoe. When done place a bit 
of butter on the top of each cake, and serve. 

CORN DODGERS. 

Two cupfuls of corn meal. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Boiling water. 

One table-spoonful of lard or butter. 

One table-spoonful of milk. 

One egg. 

Mix the salt and meal together dry, put the lard in the 



BREAKFAST DISHES. 377 

center, and pour on enough boiling water to wet the meal. 
Beat tiie egg until light, add the milk, and when the 
liquid has cooled stir it into the meal. Beat the mixture 
well, drop it by spoonfuls upon a greased pan, and bake 
in a very hot oven for fifteen minutes. 

CORN-MEAL PONE. 

One quart of Indian meal. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One table-spoonful of butter or lard. 

Cold water to make a dough. 

Mix these ingredients together, mould the dough with 
the hands into thin, oblong cakes, lay these in a well 
greased pan, and bake quickly. The common way is to 
form the dough into oval mounds that are higher in the 
middle than at the ends, shaping them rapidly and lightly 
with the hands by tossing the dough over and over. This 
is done with great dexterity by the cooks in the South, 
where a " pone " of this kind forms a part of every din- 
ner; it is broken, not cut, and eaten hot. 

FLANNEL CAKES. 

One quart of flour. 

Two eggs. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of salt. 

Three table-spoonfuls of yeast. 

One table-spoonful of butter, melted. 

One and a- half pint of milk. 

Scald the milk, and when it has cooled add the salt, 
flour and yeast. Beat the mixture until light, and set it 
to rise over night. In the morning add the melted 
butter and the beaten eggs, and bake on a griddle. 
These are the usual griddle-cakes in the South. 



378 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

JOHNNIE CAKE. 

The following quantities will make two small loaves : 

Two cupfuls of sour milk. 

One cupful of sifted flour. 

Two cupfuls of Indian meal. 

Three table-spoonfuls of melted butter. 

Two table spoonfuls of sugar. 

One tea-spoonful of soda. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Two eggs. 

Place the milk, salt and sugar in a mixing-bowl, and 
beat the eggs until light. Dissolve the soda in a little 
cold water, and stir it into the mixture in the bowl. 
Then add the flour and meal, sifted together, and the 
melted butter and the eggs, stirring these ingredients in 
in the order named. Pour the batier into well buttered 
tins, and bake thirty minutes. 

SHORTCAKES. 

These are made either with fresh strawberries, peaches, 
etc., or with canned fruits, but the fresh fruits are much 
to be preferred. For making the crust the baking powder 
biscuit dough previously mentioned is always satisfactory. 
Mould the dough into a round or oblong mass, having it 
as soft as can be handled ; and press it out thin with the 
hands, avoiding the use of a rolling-pin. Then place the 
dough in a tin like a loaf of bread, and bake forty-five 
minutes in a moderate oven. When done it should be 
twice as thick as at first. With a long, thin knife split 
the loaf in two parts, cutting it through the middle ; lay 
the inner sides upward, spread the soft cake generously 
with butter, and sprinkle with a light sifting of sugar. If 



BREAKFAST DISHES. 379 

Strawberries are to be used, remove the hulls and mix a 
tea-cupful of sugar with each quart of berries ; then leave 
them to season for at least an hour, stirring them up 
carefully three or four times during that time. If there 
seems to be very little juice at the end of half an hour, 
crush a few of the berries, and stir again. When the 
crust is buttered, divide the berries -equally between the 
two pieces. One quart of berries, if good, will be quite 
enough for the amount of crust given in the recipe, which 
will be ample for six persons. Sprinkle the berries with 
a light sifting of sugar, and either place the two pieces of 
cake side by side on a platter or lay one on top of 
the other, always keeping the berries uppermost. Pile 
whipped cream on top, and serve ; or serve with a cream 
sauce made of a pint of sweet cream, sweetened to 
taste and adding two table-spoonfuls of crushed berries. 

Some cooks divide the dough into two parts, lay one 
half in the baking-tin, spread it lightly with butter, and 
then place the other half on the top ; the cake is then 
baked, and when taken from the oven the two portions 
separate easily, thus requiring no cutting. The butter 
forms a very thin coat, through which the butter and 
berry juice afterwards applied cannot pass ; and for this 
reason many prefer the former method, which presents a 
soft surface that receives the seasoning admirably. 

Peaches, oranges and apricots make delicious short- 
cakes. 

DOUGHNUTS. (sOUR MILK.) 

Two cupfuls of sugar. 

Two cupfuls of sour milk. 

Eight table-spoonfuls of melted butter. 



3 8o THE PA TTERN CO OK-B O OK. 

Four eggs. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of soda. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of cream of tartar. 

Flour to thicken. 

Add the salt and sugar to the milk, and then the soda, 
dissolved in a little cold water. Sift a little flour, stir 
into it the cream of tartar, and add this to the milk ; 
then stir in the melted butter, and the eggs, well beaten. 
Add only enough flour to admit of rolling out the dough. 
Turn the dough on a floured bread-board, and let it stand 
fifteen minutes before cutting out. Roll it half an inch 
thick, cut out with a doughnut cutter, and drop the cakes 
into very hot fat. When they are brown on one side turn 
them with a spoon and brown them on the other side ; 
then take them out with a skimmer. Do not pierce the 
doughnuts with a fork, as that allows the steam inside to 
escape and renders them heavy. When cold roll the 
doughnuts in pulverized sugar. 

DOUGHNUTS. (sWEET MILK.) 

Two eggs. 

One cupful of sugar. 

One cupful of milk. 

Flour to thicken. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One tea-spoonful of nutmeg. 

Rdb the butter and sugar together, and add the beaten 
eggs, salt and milk. Stir the powder in a little of the 
flour, and add this to the mixture, together with the 
dough and just enough more flour to admit of rolling out. 



BREAKFAST DISHES. 38 1 

The softer the dough is made the lighter and more 
tender will be the doughnuts when cooked. Fry in very- 
hot fat as above ; and when the cakes are cold, roll 
them in sugar. 

RAISED DOUGHNUTS. 

The following is a very reliable recipe : 

One pint of milk. 

Two cupfuls of sugar. 

One cupful of yeast, or one cake. 

One-half cupful of lard. 

One-half cupful of butter. 

Three eggs. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One tea-spoonful of nutmeg. 

Flour. 

Soak the compressed yeast (if used ) in half a cupful 
of water, then add the milk, and flour enough to 
make a thick batter, and set it in a warm place to rise. 
When light, add the other ingredients, and knead the 
same as bread, adding flour to make a dough. Set the 
dough to rise, and when light roll it out half an inch 
thick, cut out with a doughnut-cutter, and leave the 
doughnuts in a warm place to rise. As soon as they are 
perfectly light fry them in hot fat. In making these 
doughnuLS set the sponge about three o'clock in the 
afternoon, knead it at night the same as bread, and 
mold and cut out on the following morning. In tbi^ way 
the time of rising does not interfere with other and 

is not hurried. It is best to scald and co * 'Ik 

before using it for the sponge, thus preventing a -luuce 
of its becoming sour. Roll the doughnuts in contc. lon- 
ers' suirar when cold. 



382 THE PATTEKN COOK-BOOK. 

CRULLERS. 

Three eggs. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Flour to thicken. 

Three table-spoonfuls of milk. 

Six table-spoonfuls of melted butter. 

Six table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

Rub the butter, salt and sugar together, add the beaten 
eggs and the milk and flour enough to roll out the 
dough. Roll half an inch thick, cut out and fry in hot lard 
as previously directed. 

FRIED CAKES. 

Three eggs. 

One and a-half cupful of sugar. 

One cupful of milk. 

Three table-spoonfuls of melted butter. 

Flour to thicken. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 

One-half tea-spoonful of nutmeg. 

Three tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

Place the sugar, salt, spice and baking powder in a lit- 
tle flour, and mix well, sifting all through a flour sieve. 
Beat the eggs light, and add them to the milk. Then 
stir the two mixtures well together, and add just enough 
more flour to admit of rolling nicely. Roll the dough 
half an inch thick, cut out with a round cutter, and fry in 
hot lard. 

FRITTERS. 

These are fried the same as doughnuts in plenty of hot 
lard ; they are not, however, made thick enough to roll 
out, but are dropped from a spoon, being only a thick 



BREAKFAST DISHES. 383 

batter. Fritters are either made plain and served with 
hot syrup or are seasoned with fruits, vegetables, clams 
or oysters stirred into the batter. Recipes for the latter 
varieties will be found under their respective headings. 
Fruit fritters are made by dropping the fruit into the 
plain batter and then frying. Fritters are always served 
hot. 

PLAIN FRITTERS. 

One egg. 

One-half pint of sweet milk. 

Flour to thicken. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One tea-spoonful of baking-powder. 

Place all the ingredients together, beating the ^gg well 
before adding it, and using enough fiour to make a thick 
batter. It should not run from a spoon, but should be 
thick enough to be dropped by the spoonful. Serve with 
hot sugar syrup or hot maple syrup. 

SOUR MILK FRITTERS. 

One coffee-cupful -of sour milk. 

One egg. 

Flour to thicken. . 

One tea-spoonful of soda. 

Two table-spoonfuls of melted butter. 

Mix together the same as in the preceding recipe, fry, 
and serve hot. 

CEREALS FOR BREAKFAST. 

There is scarcely a household nowadays in which 
some kind of mush or porridge does not form a portion 
of the morning meal. The grain preparations are almost 



384 . THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

innumerable, and many of them are crushed or steamed 
so that the time required to cook is greatly diminished. 
Many people, however, prefer wheat or oats that are 
unrolled, and these require long cooking to make them 
digestible. The names of a few cereals are here given, 
together with a brief description of each. 

Cracked wheat — Whole wheat grains. 

Farina — Made from wheat. 

Hominy — Made from Indian corn, the grain being left 
nearly whole. 

Grits — Fine hominy. 

Samp — Made from corn, which is merely broken into a 
number of pieces. 

Hulled Corn — The corn soaked to remove the hulls. 

Cerealine — Made from corn. 

Oatmeal — This is made in three grades of fineness, the 
coarsest being known as " B B." This is simply the 
whole oats minus the husks and is the kind used by the 
Scotch people. 

OATMEAL MUSH. 

If the coarse meal is used, allow 

One cupful of oatmeal. 
Four cupfuls of water. 
One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Place the meal in the double boiler with the water and 
salt, and do not stir it. Cover the kettle tightly, and 
keep the water in the under kettle boiling. The mush 
should cook three hours. This length of boiling is 
not possible before breakfast if done in the morning ; 
therefore, the mush should be cooked the day before it is 



BREAKFAST DISHES. 385 

needed. Leave it in the kettle over night, and in the 
morning add half a cupful of boiling water, replenish the 
hot water in the lower kettle, and set the whole to heat 
while the remainder of the breakfast is being prepared. 

If steamed or rolled oats are liked, they can be cooked 
in the morning in half an hour, allowing a cupful of 
meal to one quart of water and a tea-spoonful of salt. 
Stir up two or three times, and during the last five min- 
utes remove the cover from the kettle to allow the steam 
to escape, so that the mush will not be too moist when 
served. 

WHEAT GERM MUSH. 

Wheat Germs is the name given a fine meal obtained 
from the heart of the wheat. Place a quart of boiling- 
water in the upper portion of the double boiler, having 
water boiling also, in the lower portion. Gradually 
sprinkle in a cupful of the germs, add a tea-spoonful 
of salt, and stir constantly until the mixture boils. Cook 
twenty minutes, and serve with sugar and cream or milk, 
or with syrup. This makes a pleasant change from oat- 
meal and cracked wheat. Any of the mush left over may 
be fried like corn meal mush or hominy. 

GRITS OR SMALL-HOMINY MUSH. 

Buy only the fine white hominy. Wash a cupful of 
the hominy in three waters, stir it into a quart of boiling 
water, add a tea-spoonful of salt, and boil for half an 
hour. 

FRIED GRITS. 

Pour the hominy mush while hot into a deep dish that 
has just been dipped in cold water. When the mush is 



386 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

cold, cut it into slices, sprinkle these with flour, and fry 
in just enough fat to keep them from burning. This 
mush requires a long time to brown, and the pan should 
be covered, as the fat spatters. 

CORN MUSH. 

This is usually made by gradually sprinkling a pint 
of corn meal into three pints of boiling water, stirring 
constantly, adding two tea-spoonfuls of salt, and boiling 
slowly for three hours. Keep the kettle covered during 
the boiling, and add water if the mush becomes 
too thick. Serve with milk and sugar. Place all the 
mush that is left after the first meal in an earthenware 
dish which has been previously wet with cold water, to be 
fried when cold. One of the large baking-powder tins is 
also a very convenient receptable to use for this purpose, 
as the mush when cold can be easily slipped out of it and 
the slices wdll be round and most inviting. The tin 
should be wet before the mush is poured in. 

Another method of cooking corn mush is as follows : 
Put on a quart of water to boil. Stir a pint of cold milk 
with a pint of corn meal and a tea-spoonful of salt. 
When the water boils pour this mixture gradually into it, 
stirring all the time. There is less likelihood of the mush 
being lumpy when mixed in this way. 

FRIED CORN MUSH. 

Cut the cold mush into slices about a-quarter of an 
inch thick, and fry until brown and crisp in a very little 
fat ; or sprinkle the slices with flour, and fry ; or dip 
each slice first in salted beatei) egg and then in bread or 
cracker crumbs, and fry brown. Fried mush is one of the 



BREAKFAST DISHES. 387 

most delicious of breakfast dishes when properly pre- 
pared. The fat should be very hot, so that a crust will 
quickly form upon the slices preventing them from soak- 
ing up any of the grease. 



PIES. 

" Who'll dare deny the truth, 
There's poetry m pie ? " 

Longfellow. 

PASTRY. 

It is not a difficult thing to make puff-paste, yet nearly 
all cooks and housekeepers regard it a feat rather hard 
to accomplish. The work is not complicated, but it must 
be done very rapidly and with great delicacy of touch. 
In the many rules given in as many books the principal 
ingredients are practically the same — a pound of butter 
to a pound of flour, with differences in the way of lemon- 
juice, eggs or sugar. 

In making puff-paste the object should be to form 
as many distinct layers as possible, and each layer should 
be as thin as a sheet of paper. To insure this result, all 
the materials and utensils used should be very cold, and 
the work done in a cool room. Puff-paste should never 
be attempted with lard or a mixture of lard and butter ; 
and the butter used must be of good quality. The best 
flour for this work is that made by the " old process," 
and commonly known as " pastry flour." In winter, 
when the temperature is at freezing point, or in summer, 
when a refrigerator is at hand, it is really but little more 

388 



PIES. 389 

tax on time and muscle to make this paste than to pro- 
duce any other variety of crust. Hundreds of different 
dishes can be made with it ; and Careme, the noted 
French professional, has devoted a good-sized volume to 
the subject. As there can be no better mode of making 
the paste than the one he has given to the world, we pre- 
sent his recipe in this connection. It may be of assist- 
ance to know that four cupfuls of sifted flour make a 
pound in weight, and that a cupful of lard or butter is 
half a pound in weight. 

careme's recipe for puff-paste. 

Twelve ounces of finely sifted flour. 

Twelve ounces of butter. 

One scant glassful of ice-water. 

Two drams of salt. 

Two eggs (yolks). 

Having placed the flour on the board, make a small hole 
in the middle of it, into which put the salt, the yolks of 
the eggs, and nearly a glassful of ice-water. With the 
ends of the fingers gradually mix the flour with the liquid 
ingredients, adding a little more water when necessary, 
until the paste is. of the proper consistency — rather firm 
than otherwise. Then lean the hand on the board and 
work the paste for some minutes, when it will become 
soft to the touch and glossy in appearance. Care must 
be taken in mixing the flour with the liquid that the latter 
does not escape, and that the paste be very lightly 
gathered together to prevent it forming into lumps, which 
would render it stiff and very difficult to work, thus mak- 
ing a failure of the paste very probable. To ascertain 
whether the dough has been properly worked, draw it out 



390 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

and if it immediately recedes to its former shape, the 
cook may be sure it has been clumsily and irregularly 
mixed. To remedy this, roll the paste out carefully and 
placj^ h^re and there upon it five or six pieces of butter, 
each the size of a walnut ; then work it as before until the 
proper degree of softness is attained. The paste should 
neither be too stiff nor too soft, but of a proper medium ; 
yet it is better for it to be too soft than too stiff. A 
warm place should not be chosen in which to make puff 
paste, hence it is rather difficult to do work of this kind 
properly in summer. If a cool place cannot be found, 
the paste might be made up slightly stiffer m summer 
than in winter. When the paste has been made as 
above, cut in pieces three-quarters of a pound of butter 
which has been lying for twenty minutes in ice-water, and 
been afterward well washed and pounded. Squeeze and 
work the butter well in a napkin to separate the water 
from it and at the same time to render it soft, and, above 
all, of an even consistency ; then as quickly as possible 
roll the paste into a square on a marble slab, being par- 
ticular to make the ends of the dough perfectly even, as 
success depends largely on folding properly. Place the 
butter in the middle, spread it over half the paste, and 
immediately turn the other half over the butter to cover 
it. Then roll the paste out to be about three feet in 
length, fold it so as to make three thicknesses, and roll 
it as before ; then fold it once more into three equal 
parts, roll it to a greater length, fold it, and place it 
quickly on a plate sprinkled with flour. Set the plate 
upon ten pounds of pounded ice, cover the paste with a 
second plate, and place a pound of broken ice on top of 
the latter plate, which serves to keep the surface of the 



PIES. 391 

paste cool, and also to prevent it being softened by the 
action of the air. After two or three minutes remove 
the top plate and turn the paste upside down, instantly 
covering it as before. In about fifteen minutes roll the 
paste out, and use it very expeditiously. 

Thus in less than half an hour it is possible to make 
very fine puif-paste, but this is only provided everything 
has been previously prepared — the ice pounded, the 
butter frozen and the oven made quite hot, for otherwise 
the paste cannot be made so quickly. The heating of 
the oven must be attended to by all means, for it some- 
times requires fully an hour to bring it to the proper tem- 
perature. It is safe to begin to make the paste when the 
oven is half heated. 

PUFF-PASTE (American). 

The following recipe is that used by one of our profes- 
sional cooks, and is somewhat different in its working 
from the preceding, but is highly successful. It is not 
so rich as the Careme paste. 

One pound of flour. 

Three-quarters of a pound of butter. 

Ice-water. 

Two eggs (yolks). 

Two tea-spoonfuls of salt. 

One tea-spoonful of sugar. 

Place the flour when sifted on a board or marble slab, 
and sprinkle over it the sugar and salt ; then beat the 
yolks of the eggs, and stir into them a few spoonfuls of ice- 
cold water. Pour the eggs slowly into the center of the 
flour with the left hand, working them at the same time 



392 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

well into the mass with the tips of the fingers of the right 
hand. Continue to work the mixture, turning the fingers 
round and round on the board, until you have a well- 
worked, smooth and fine paste. Now roll the paste out 
into a rectangular form, being particular to have the 
edges quite straight, since, as we said before, much de- 
pends upon the even folding of the paste. Work the 
butter (which, if at all soft, should be laid for some min- 
utes in very cold water) until the moisture and salt are 
wiped out and it is quite supple, being careful, however, 
that it does not become too soft, as in this condition it 
would ruin the paste. Divide the butter into three equal 
parts, spread one part as flatly and evenly as possible 
over half the paste, turn the other half over it, and 
fold a second time from right to left. Roll out to the 
same rectangular form as before, spread the second 
portion of the butter on half of the crust, fold and 
roll out again, and repeat the process with the third por- 
tion of butter. The paste has now been given what is 
called " three turns," and it should be given three turns 
more. After the first three turns, however, and after 
each of the last three, the paste should be placed on the 
ice or in a cool place for from ten to fifteen minutes. 
This will prevent the butter becoming soft enough to 
penetrate the dough. Each time, before the dough is 
folded, it should be turned half round so that it will be 
rolled in a different direction ; in this way the layers will 
become more even. If it becomes necessary to turn the 
paste in order to sprinkle the board with flour, it may be 
done in this way: hold the end of the paste to the rolling- 
pin, and then by rolling the latter the dough will fold 
loosely around it ; after sprinkling the board with flour. 



PIES. 393 

the dough can be unrolled. This is a better plan than 
turning it with the hands, as it should be handled as Utile 
as possible. After the paste has been folded the last 
time, put it on a platter, cover, and place it on the ice for 
half an hour, or until it is thoroughly chilled ; then roll it 
out for instant use ; or, if it be not required for immediate 
baking, it may be kept in a half-frozen state for two or 
three days. Firm, solid butler should be selected^ for 
puff-paste, and a cold place should be chosen for the 
work. Even in winter it is wise to make it by an open 
window. 

TO BAKE PUFF-PASTE. 

A most important factor in the making of pufT-paste is 
having the oven at exactly the proper temperature, for 
even if the very best materials have been selected and 
have been mixed exactly as directed, the paste will be a 
failure if placed in an oven that is not rightly heated. 
The paste should be ice cold when put into the oven, 
which should be very hot (at least as high as 460° Fahren- 
heit, if a thermometer is used). 

For patties the oven should have a strong underheat, 
allowing them to rise to their full height before browning. 
If the oven should be too hot, so that the paste begins to 
brown as soon as put in, immediately reduce the tempera- 
ture by opening the draughts of the stove, and placing in 
the oven a small basin of ice-water. 

HOW TO SHAPE PUFF-PASTE. 

I^or Pies with Tivo Cnisis. — Roll the pasle out a-quar- 
ter of an inch thick, then roll it up, and cut a piece from 
the end of the roll. Turn the portion thus cut off on the 



394 TH^- PATTERN COOK-BOO A'. 

side, pat it out flat, and roll to fit the plate. Keep the 
paste in a circular form, and roll evenly in every direc- 
tion. Make it slightly larger than the plate, as the paste 
shrinks when taken from the board, and should be fulled 
in rather than stretched to the required size. When the 
paste is fitted, cut around the edge with a sharp knife 
dipped in flour. Roll some of the paste, and cut it into 
strips three-quarters of an inch wide ; then wet the under- 
crust, and place the rim on the edge. Fill the plate v/ith 
the material to be used. Roll the upper-crust larger 
than the plate, make a cut in the center to let the steam 
of baking escape, wet the rim on the pie, and put on the 
upper-crust with its edge even with the rim, having this 
crust slightly full in the center to allow for its shrinking 
in baking; otherwise the crust, as it is forced up by the 
steam within, will be drawn away from the edge. Press 
the rim and edge closely but lightly together to keep the 
juices from boiling out. 

For Pies tvith One Crust. — The following directions 
apply to squash, pumpkin and custard pies. Butter the 
plate lightly or sprinkle it with a light dusting of flour. 
Roll the paste a little larger than the plate, and an-eighth 
of an inch thick. Cover the plate with this sheet, being 
careful not to shut in any air between the paste and the 
plate ; the paste should hang about half an inch over the 
edge of the plate. Roll the edge up until it rests on 
the edge of the plate, the rolled part being underneath; 
there will then be a thick edge all round the plate. 
Pinch this with the thumb and forefinger until a thin 
scalloped " wall " is formed. It is always wise to build a 
wall like this, because plates are not made deep enough 
for these pies to be made of the desired thickness. 



PIES. 395 

For Patties. — Roll the paste a-quarter of an inch thick, 
and cut it out with a circular cutter at least two inches 
and a-half in diameter. With a cutter an inch and a-half 
in diameter, stamp out the centers from half of the cir- 
cular portions, thus leaving rings of paste half an inch 
wide. Dip the cutters in hot water and cut quickly, that 
the edges of the paste- may not be pressed together or 
cut unevenly. Rub a little white of ^gg in the large 
rounds near the edge, put on the rings, and press them 
lightly to make them adhere, being very careful, however, 
not to get any of the egg on the edges, as that would 
prevent the patties rising. Put a round piece of stale 
bread cut half an inch thick in the center of each patty, 
to keep the paste from rising and filling the cavity. 
Bake in shallow pans lined with paper, and when done, 
remove the bread and the soft paste underneath. Bake 
the small pieces cut from the centers on a pan by them- 
selves, as they require less time for baking. In serving 
place one of these pieces on top of each patty or shell, for 
a cover. Any kind of delicate cooked meat or fish such 
as chickens, sweetbreads, oysters or lobsters,, may be cut 
in small pieces, warmed in thick cream sauce and served 
as an entree in hot patty shells,, with a cover of the paste. 
Two or three rings may be put on when a deeper shell is 
desired. 

7a7'ts. — For these the paste is rolled thinner than for 
patties, being not more than an-eighth of an inch thick ; 
and it is usually cut with a fluted cutter. The shaj^es are 
filled, when cold, with jelly or preserves, and a cover of 
paste is not used. 

Tart Wells. — Cut the rounds of paste with three or 
four cutters of different sizes. Use the largest jDortion 



396 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

for the bottom ; cut the centers from the others, leaving 
the rims of different widths, and pile the latter on the 
whole round, with the narrowest rim at the top. Bake 
and fill with jell}'. 

Vol-au-vents. — Roll the paste half an inch thick, and 
for a large vol-au-vent make it nine inches in diameter. 
Mark the outline with an oval mold or pan, and put on 
two or three rings, wetting the edge of each with white of 
Q^gg. Make an oval hoop of stiff paper two inches high 
and slightly larger than the vol-ati-vefit, and place it 
around the latter to prevent scorching. Bake this size at 
least an hour. These cases are used in the same manner 
as patties. 

jRisso/es. — Roll the paste thin, and cut it out with a 
four-inch fluted patty-cutter. Put a generous tea-spoonful 
of cold chicken or whatever is to be used in the rissoles 
in the center of each round. Wet the edges with white of 
egg, fold the paste over and press the edges together. 
Glaze with beaten egg, and fry in hot lard, or bake. 

PLAIN PASTE WITH BUTTER. 

The following quantity will be sufficient for one pie 
having an upper and an under crust : 

Two cupfuls of sifted flour. 
Two-thirds of a cupful of butter. 
One-half cupful of ice-water. 
One tea-spoonful of sugar. 
One tea-spoonful of salt. 

As in puff-paste, have everything as cold as possible ; 
and in warm weather place the butter and flour in the 
refrigerator for several hours before using them. Sift 



PIES. 397 

the flour, measure it, and put it in a large mixing-bowl; 
add the salt and sugar, and then place the butter in the 
center of the flour, and with a sharp knife cut it quickly 
into small pieces, at the same time mixing it with the 
flour. Now gradually add the ice-water ; lift with the 
knife that portion of the flour which has been moistened 
first, push it to one side of the bowl, wet another portion, 
and so continue until all is moistened. Add the water 
very carefully, wetting only the dry flour and never stirring 
twice in the same place. Then cut and mix all together 
until the mixture can be lifted from the bowl with the 
knife. Dredge the baking-board lightly with flour, and 
roll the paste lightly and quickly away from you into a 
long, thin sheet. Fold first the sides and then the ends, 
turn the paste around and roll it from you again ; then 
fold it and stand it on the ice until \vanted. In order to 
make this paste a perfect success the materials should be 
very cold, the mixing and rolling should be quickly done, 
and as little flour as possible should be used in finishing. 

CHOPPED PUFF-PASTE. 

This paste is quickly made and is very satisfactory, 
although not so light or delicate as genuine puff-paste. 

Two cupfuls of sifted flour. 

One-half table-spoonful of sugar. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One cupful of butter. 

One-quarter cupful of ice-water. 

One egg. 

One-half table-spoonful of lemon-juice. 

Beat the egg very light, and add to it the water and 
the lemon-juice. Chop the butter and the flour together. 



398 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

until the butter is reduced to lumps the size of a pea ; then 
gradually add the ^^g and water, chopping all the time. 
When all the wetting has been used, sprinkle the mold- 
ing-board with flour, and turn the paste upon it. Roll 
and fold the same as pufif-pasle, repeating the process 
three or four times ; then set the paste on the ice, and 
when cold, use like pufif-pasie. This paste may be used 
without chilling, but will not be so light. 

PLAIN PASTE WITH LARD. 

Many housekeepers always use lard for pastry instead 
of butter, simply because it is cheaper. It makes a crust 
that is more brittle and also more greasy, and there is no 
doubt but that it is more indigestible than the light, flaky, 
tender crust made with good, sweet butter. For one pie 
with two crusts allow. 

Two cupf uls of sifted flour. 
One-half cupful of lard. 
One tea-spoonful of salt. 
One-half cupful (scant) of ice- water. 

Make and roll the same as directed for " Plain Paste 
with Butter." 

APPLE PIE. 

Any light, tart apples may be used for pies, but Green- 
ings are always most satisfactory. Pare, quarter and core 
the apples, slicing each one as it is finished into the pie- 
plate or tin in which the pie is to be made, continuing to 
slice until the plate is evenly full. In this way there will 
not be more apples peeled than can be used. Turn the 
sliced apple into a dish, and for one pie of ordinary size 
add a cupful of sugar and half a tea-spoonful of cinna- 



PIES. ~ 399 

mon. Stir the apple with a spoon until each slice seems 
to have its share of sugar and spice. Wipe the pie dish 
dry, dust it lightly with flour, line it with good plain or 
puff paste, put in the apples, and add two table-spoonfuls 
of water. Cover the top as directed in " How to Shape 
Puff Paste," and bake three-quarters of an hour in a 
quick oven. When the pie is cold sprinkle the top 
thickly with pulverized sugar, and serve. 

AN APPLE TART. 

Ten apples. i«»*. 

One-half a lemon (juice and rind). 

One cupful of sugar. 

One tea-spoonful of butter. 

Water. 

Pare the apples, and from four of the largest and firm- 
est extract the cores without breaking the apples. Place 
these four in a small stew-pan with half the lemon-juice, 
half the grated rind and half the sugar; nearly cover them 
with water, and boil slowly until nearly done, keeping the 
apples whole. Cut the remaining six apples into pieces, 
and place them on the fire in a separate s.tew-pan with the 
remainder of the lemon-juice, rind and sugar and a little 
water. Boil them slowly to a regular apple-sauce or 
marmalade, add the butter, and rub the whole through a 
colander. Line the pie-plate wdth paste, fill the bottom 
wuth the marmalade, and put in the whole apples, one in 
each quarter of the pie, sinking them into the marmalade 
and filling the cavities between them with the sauce. 
Place two strips of crust half an inch wide across the pie. 
thus separating the four apples ; and bake in a quick 
oven. This tart is very delicate served with cream. 



400 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

LEMON PIE. 

To make one pie, take 

, One large lemon. 
Two eggs. 

One cupful of sugar. 
One large cupful of water. 

Grate the rind from the lemo'n, and add it and the 
juice to the sugar. Stir well, and add the water, and 
the eggs, well beaten. Bake with an upper and under 
crust for forty-five minutes. 

• LEMON CUSTARD PIE. 

The following lilling is sufficient for two pies. 

Three eggs. 

One large or two small lemons. 
One and a-halt cupful of sugar. 
One-half cupful of water. 
One and a-half cupful of milk, 
jue table-spoonful of melted butter. C^ 

Separate the yolks of the eggs from the whites ; rub 
the sugar and the yolks to a cream, and add the v.'ater 
and then the milk. Stir all well together, and put in the 
'melted butter, and when everything is ready to put the 
filling in the crust add the lemon-juice and the grated 
rind. If added in this way, the acid will not break the 
milk. Bake three-quarters of an hour. Whip the whites 
to a stiff froth, add a table-spoonful of sugar, spread this 
mixture on top of the pies, when baked, return them to 
the oven, and brown the whites lightly. These pies are 
to be eaten cold. 



PIES. 401 

LEMON PIE WITH BREAD. 

The following is a most reliable recipe and will make 
one pie. Only one crust is used : 

One lemon. , 

One large pint of bread-crumbs. 

One-table-spoonful of melted butter. 

One cupful of sugar. 

Two eggs. 

Cold water. | 

The bread should not be hard, the crusts not being 
available for this filling. Put the crumbs, which should 
be half the size of a nutmeg, in a quart cup, measuring a 
full pint ; add the lemon-juice, half the grated rind, the 
sugar, and the yolks of the eggs, well beaten ; and turn 
into the cup sufficient water to make the whole measure 
just a pint and a-half. Stir ^ell, and let the mixture 
stand in the cup while the plate is being lined with paste ; 
then stir well again, mashing the brea«' fine. If the 
bread does not seem entirely soft, do not add the filling 
to the crust, but let it stand a few minutes longer; this, 
however, will ^ely be necessary. Just before putting 
the filling into the crust add the melted butter ; then 
bake about thirty-five minutes in a quick oven. Beat the 
whites of the eggs stiff, add a small table-spoonful of 
sugar, spread this froth on top of the pie when baked, 
return the pie to the oven, and quickly brown it. Serve 
cold. 

LEMON PIE WITH CORN-STARCH. 

This is baked with one cri^t. To make one pie, allow 
26 



402 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

One lemon. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One and a-half table-spoonful of corn-starch. 

One cupful of water. 

One egg (white only). 

Sugar to taste. 

Wet the corn-starch in a little of the water, and place 
the rest of the water over the fire in a saucepan ; and 
when the latter boils stir into it the wet corn-starch, and 
boil a minute after it thickens. Add the butter, and 
set the mixture aside to cool. Line a pie-plate with 
paste ; and when the filling has cooled add to it the 
lemon-juice, the grated rind, and sugar to sweeten. Beat 
the mixture well, turn it into the crust, and bake about 
twenty minutes in a very quick oven. When done, 
spread over the top of the pie the beaten white of ^g^, 
sweetened with a tea-spoonful of sugar and flavored with 
a little lemon extract. Brown the meringue, and serve 
the pie cold. 

PUMPKIN PIE. 

Cut the pumpkin into long strips, remove the soft pulp 
and seeds, pare the strips, and cut them Into small pieces. 
Place the pumpkin in a kettle with a very little water, 
cover the kettle tightly, and stew slowly, stirring up 
frequently from the bottom and adding a little more 
water, if the pumpkin seems in danger of becoming too 
thick, but always remembering that the less water is used 
the finer will be the quality of the^ pies. It will take at 
least six hours to stew a pumpkin until soft enough to use. 
If the pumpkin seems at all watery when done, set the 
kettle on a hot part of tl\^ stove, and stir constantly 



PIES. 403 

uncovered ; it will soon dry sufficiently. Lift the pump- 
kin from the kettle into a colander or a rather coarse 
sieve, and pulp it through. It will then be ready to use. 
This part of the work should obviously be done the day 
before the pies are to be made. The quantities given 
below will make three good, deep pies. 

One quart of stewed pumpkin. 

Three pints of milk. 

Six eggs. 

One table-spoonful of salt. 

One and a-half table-spoonful of ginger. 

One tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 

One cupful of sugar. 

Beat the eggs very light, add them to the pumpkin, and 
stir until the mixture is creamy ; then add the salt, sugar, 
cinnamon and gmger. Stir thoroughly, and when the 
mass is well mixed add the milk, a little at a time. 
Taste the mixture, and add more 'sugar and spice if 
needed. Line three pie-tins, divide the filling among 
them, stirring it all the time it is being poured into the 
plates ; and bake half an hour in a quick oven. Do not 
be afraid to use the quantity of ginger given, for much of 
its strength is evaporated in the baking. This is a very 
reliable recipe and will produce most delicious pies. 

SQUASH PIE. 

The yellow, hard-shelled squash makes almost as good 
pies as pumpkin, and it is often obtainable when pump- 
kin is not. Squash pie is made by the preceding recipe ; 
but the squash will stew sufficiently in an hour or even 
a little less, and care must be taken that it is very dry 
before being removed from the firg. 



404 THE FA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

CREAM PIE. 
For one pie, use, 

One pint of milk. 

Two even table-spoonfuls of corn-starch. 

Two eggs. 

Three table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-half tea-spoonful of butter. 

Vanilla to flavor. 

Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs, beat the 
yolks light, and add to them a little of the cold milk. 
Place the corn-starch in a tea-cup. add just enough of the 
cold milk to thoroughly wet the starch, and stir until 
smooth. Place the rest of the milk over the fire either in 
a double boiler or in a saucepan set in another pan con- 
taining boiling water. Put the corn-starch mixture and 
the egg mixture together, stir well, and when the milk is 
boiling add the mixture to it. Stir until the liquid 
thickens, add the sugar, salt and butter, and cook three 
or four minutes. Remove from the fire, and when par- 
tially cold add sufficient vanilla to flavor. Line a pie- 
tin with paste, pierce the paste in three or four places 
with a steel fork, and bake without any filling in a very 
quick oven. The holes pierced in the crust will prevent 
it puffing in the center. When the crust is done, which 
should take ten minutes, remove it from the oven, let 
it cool a little, and. if it has been baked in a tin, slip 
it out upon a dinner plate ; then fill the crust with the 
cream filling. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stifif 
froth, add to them a table-spoonful of sugar and a little 
of the flavoring, and spread them on top of the cream. 



PIES, 405 

le 
h 



Sprinkle the top lightly with cocoanut and brown in the 
oven. The cocoanut may be omitted, but it adds much 
to the flavor of the meringue. Serve cold. 



CANNED PEACH MERINGUE PIE. 

One tea-cupful of water. 
One-half tea-cupful of sugar. 
One-half tea-cupful of peach juice. 
Two table-spoonfuls of corn-starch. 
One tea-spoonful of butter. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
Two eggs. 
Canned peaches. 

Wet the corn-starch with a little of the water, beat the 
yolks of the eggs lightly with the sugar, and add them to 
the corn-starch. Place the rest of the water on the fire, 
and when it boils stir in the corn-starch mixture, which 
will thicken at once. Add the butter, salt, sugar and 
peach juice, cook two minutes and remove from the fire. 
Line a plate with paste, cover the bottom with a layer of 
canned peaches, turn in the cooked mixture, and bake. 
When done, spread over the top of the pie the beaten 
whites of the eggs sweetened with a tea-spoonful of sugar ; 
and brown lightly. Fresh peaches may be used in the 
same way, water being substituted for the peach juice. 

CHOCOLATE PIE. 

One coffee-cupful of milk. 

One-half cupful of sugar. 

Vanilla to flavor. 

Two table- spoonfuls of grated chocolate. 

Three eggs. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 



406 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Beat the yolks of the eggs light, and add to them two 
table-spoonfuls of the milk. Heat the chocolate and the 
rest of the milk together, put in the salt and sugar, and 
when scalding hot add the yolks of the eggs. Let the 
mixture cook two minutes, remove it from the fire, and 
when partly cooled, add the flavoring. Line a pie-plate 
with crust, turn in the filling, and bake twenty minutes in 
a quick oven. Beat the whites of the eggs very light, 
sweeten with a table-spoonful of sugar, and spread them 
over the pie ; then brown the egg slightly, and serve 
cold. 

CUSTARD PIE. 

For one thick pie allow, 

Two eggs. 

One-half cupful of sugar. 

Milk. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 

One-eighth tea-spoonful of nutmeg. 

Beat the whites and the yolks of the eggs well together. 
Stir the spice and salt into the sugar, place the sugar and 
eggs in a quart cup, and add milk sufficient to make the 
whole measure a pint and a-half. Taste, and add more 
sugar if needed. Line a plate with crust, stir the mix- 
ture well, pour it in, and bake about forty-five minutes in 
a moderately hot oven. There should not be enough 
heat to cause the custard to boil, for this will make it 
appear watery and very uninviting; the oven should, in 
fact, be a little more moderate than for most pies. At 
the end of the time insert the point of a knife in the cus- 



P/ES. 407 

tard, and if it comes out clear (not milky), the pie is 
done. If the spice is well stirred into the sugar, it will 
be distributed evenly through the milk and will not ac- 
cumulate in an unsightly manner on top of the custard. 
Do not cut the pie until quite cold. 

CHERRY PIE. 

The common red or morella cherries are the best for 
pies. Stone the cherries, line deep pie-plates with good 
plain paste, nearly fill them \vith the cherries, sprinkle 
four large table-spoonfuls of sugar over each pie, and 
dredge lightly with flour. Cover each pie with an upper 
crust, which should be rolled as thin as possible ; make 
a vent in the center, and press the edges lightly together 
so the juices will not escape during the baking. Serve 
the pies the same day they are baked, else the underr 
crust will become heavy. Sprinkle powdered sugar over 
each pie just before sending to table. 

COCOANUT CUSTARD PIE. 

Two eggs. 

One pint of milk. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of nutmeg. 

One-half cupful of sugar. 

One cupful of prepared cocoanut. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of salt. 

Beat the eggs and sugar together until light ; then add 
the milk, nutmeg, cocoanut and salt. Line a deep pie- 
dish with crust, pour the mixture in, stirring well, and 
bake thirty minutes. The above quantities will make 
one thick pie or two rather thin ones. 



408 THE PA TTERN COOJC-BOOIC, 

HUCKLEBERRY PIE. 

Select the pie-tins that are to be used, and fill them 
evenly with berries, to determine how many will be 
required. Throw the berries into a pan, look them over 
carefully, remove all the stems, and wash the berries. 
Drain off all the water from them, but do not dry them in 
a towel. Wipe the pie-dishes clean, dust a little flour in 
the bottom of each, line them with paste, following care- 
fully the directions previously given. When ready for 
the berries drain them once more, and sift flour over 
them until each berry becomes a little white ball, but 
taking care to leave no surplus flour in the bottom of the 
pan containing the berries. Allow a scanty cupful of 
sugar to each pie, stir it well into the fruit, and turn the 
latter into the pie-plates. Cover each pie with an upper 
crust, and press the edges well together, for much of the 
richness of the berries will be lost if the juice escapes 
in baking. Bake an hour, and serve cold,, with sugar 
sifted over the top. Flouring the berries in this way, 
while still a little wet from the washing, will make just 
enough thickening to counteract the excessive amount of 
juice these berries are capable of giving off. 

BLACKBERRY PIE. 

Look the berries carefully over, place them in the pie- 
tin (which has previously been fitted with an under-crust), 
add half a cupful of sugar and a table-spoonful of water, 
and place a thick dusting of flour on the top. Cover 
with an upper crust and bake an hour. Currants 
mixed with blackberries also make a delicious pie, 
three times as many blackberries being used as cur- 



PIES. 409 

rants. Sweeten with a cupful of sugar, if currants are 
used. 

RHUBARB PIE (pIE-PLANT). 

Peel or string the rhubarb by breaking a piece off each 
stem end and stripping down the thin skin that will be 
found clinging to the broken portion. Break the rhubarb 
into small pieces, and measure it in a pie-dish to ascer- 
tain the quantity needed. Place the pieces in a pan, 
flour them until they are quite white and add a cupful of 
sugar to each pie. Line a pie-dish, put in the rhubarb, 
with the sugar well stirred into it, cover with the upper- 
crust, and bake an hour. Serve cold, sprinkling pow- 
dered sugar on top. 

DELICATE PUFF PIE. 

The following will make two pies : 

Five eggs. 

One cupful of sugar. 
Three-quarters of a cupful of butter. 
Vanilla flavoring. 

Separate the whites and the yolks of the eggs, beat the 
yolks and sugar together until they form a cream, beat 
the butter until it also is a creamy froth, and quickly mix 
the butter in with the yolks and sugar, stirring well and 
adding flavoring to taste. Have pie-plates ready lined 
with paste, turn in the mixture, and bake. The pies will 
rise very light. When they are done have ready the 
beaten whites of the eggs, add to them two table-spoon- 
fuls of sugar and a few drops of the flavoring, and spread 
them over the top of the pies ; then return the pies to the 
oven and brown delicately. This pie should be cut while 



410 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

hot and distributed on the serving plates, but it is not to 
be eaten until cold. Strange as it may seem, it will fall if 
allowed to cool before being cut. 

MINCE MEAT. 

Two pounds of lean beef. 

One pound of beef suet. 

P'ive pounds of apples. 

Two pounds of layer raisins. 

Two pounds of Sultana raisins. 

One-half pound of candied lemon peel. 

Two pounds of currants. 

Three-quarters pound of citron. 

Two and a-half pounds of sugar. 

Two table-spoonfuls of salt. 

One-half ounce of cinnamon. 

One-quarter ounce of mace. 

One-quarter ounce of cloves. 

One-quarter ounce of allspice. 

Two nutmegs, grated. 

Two oranges, juice and rind. 

Two lemons, juice and rind. 

One pint of sherry. 

One pint of brandy. 

One quart of cider. 

Free the beef of fat and skin, cover it with boiling 
water and simmer gently until tender. Let the meat cool 
in the water in which it was boiled, and when perfectly 
cold chop it fine, but not to a powder. Shred the suet 
and chop it fine; pare, core and chop the apples 
rather coarsely. The apples should be of a fine flavor 
and tart. Wash and stone the layer raisins ; wash and 
pick over the Sultanas. Shred the citron and the can 
died lemon peel ; wash the currants well, and grate the 



PIES. 41 1 

rind from the oranges and lemons. Mix all the dry in- 
gredients with the meat and suet, and add the juice and 
gratings from the lemons and oranges. Stir all well 
together, pack the mass in a stone jar, pour over it the 
brandy, wine and cider, cover closely, and stand the jar 
in a cool place. 

Mince meat made in this way will keep all winter. 
The above ingredients will make a large quantity. If 
there is an objection to brandy, use a pint and a-half 
more of cider instead. Mince meat improves with keep- 
ing, and it should be made at least a fortnight before it is 
to be used. Bake the pies an hour. If the meat be- 
comes dry before it is all used, add more cider or wine. 

INEXPENSIVE MINCE MEAT. 

Four pounds of beef. 
Three quarts of chopped apples. 
One quart of stoned raisins. 
One quart of English currants. 
One quart of molasses 
One pint of suet. 
Three pints of sugar. 
One-half cupful of salt. 
One-half cupful of cinnamon. 
One table-spoonful of cloves. 
Two tr,ble-spoonfuls of allspice. 
Two table-spoonfuls of mace. 
Three nutmegs, grated. 
Three quarts of cider. 
One-quarter pound of citron. 

Boil and chop the beef as in the preceding recipe. 
Mix together all the ingredients, except the cider, mixing 
with the hands. When the whole is thoroughly stirred 
add the cider. Let the mince meat stand over night; 



412 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

in the morning place it in a porcelain kettle, heat slowly 
to the boiling point, and simmer an hour. Then turn 
it into a stone jar and set it in a cool, dry place. If de- 
sired, wine and brandy may now be stirred in, or they may 
be added when the pies are made ; but the meat will be 
good without either. This mince meat will keep three 
months in ordinary jars, even if there is no wine or 
brandy used. 

Mince pies are always better baked several days before 
they are to be served. Heat them, and serve. 

MOCK MINCE MEAT. 

Six soda crackers, rolled fine. 

Two cupfuls of cold water. 

One cupful of molasses. 

One cupful of brown sugar. 

One cupful of sour cider. 

One and one-half cupful of melted butter. 

One cupful of raisins, seeded and chopped. 

One cupful of raisins, unseeded. 

One cupful of currants. 

Two eggs. 

One table-spoonful of cinnamon. 

One-half table-spoonful of allspice 

One tea-spoonful of nutmeg. 

One tea-spoonful of cloves. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One tea-spoonful of black pepper. 

One wine-glassful of brandy. 

Mix all well together, adding the wetting last — the 
water, molasses, cider, brandy and eggs. This makes a 
good mince meat for those who find the ordinary variety 
too rich. 



PUDDINGS. 

" The proof of the pudding lies in the eating." 

In arranging for a dinner it is wise to always plan for a 
dessert. Many housekeepers look upon this course in 
the light of a luxur\', but in that they surely err. The 
majority of people, and more especially the young, should 
eat plenty of food containing starch and sugar. Even for 
the poor a simple dessert is an economy, for when none 
is provided, a greater quantity of meat and vegetables 
must be eaten to satisfy hunger. When the meal is a 
very substantial one, a light dessert is most appropriate, 
but when the dinner is light, and particularly in case cold 
meat is served, the dessert should be hearty and served 
hot. 

Puddings made of milk and eggs, in combination with 
rice, tapioca, sago or corn-starch, are the cheapest and 
most wholesome, and are highly appetizing to most 
tastes when nicely prepared and well cooked. In many 
of the pudding recipes presented in the following pages, 
the number of persons the given quantity will serve is 
specified. These calculations are based on the premise 
that the dessert is not intended to form a large propor- 
tion of the dinner, and hence that only a moderate por- 
tion need be allotted to each person at table. It would 

413 



414 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

be well if housewives would discourage an undue ambition 
on the part of the male members of the family when 
dessert is served ; and thus inaugurate a reform that 
is greatly needed in many households. A number of des- 
serts are here given that may be prepared the day before 
they are needed, and these will be especially acceptable 
to the busy housekeeper who has to prepare the Sunday 
dessert on Saturday. 

CHOCOLATE BLANC-MANGE. 

The following quantity is sufficient for six persons, for 
this dessert is quite rich. 

One quart of milk. 

One table-spoonful of vanilla. 

One table-spoonful of sugar. 

Two-thirds cupful of chocolate (grated). 

One-half box of gelatine. 

One-half cupful of cold water. 

Grate the chocolate, stir it into the milk, and place the 
latter in a double boiler, or in a pail set in a kettle of hot 
water. Cover tightly and boil one hour, stirring often to 
dislodge the chocolate as it rises to the surface of the 
milk. Turn the entire box of gelatine out upon a plate, 
and divide it very accurately in half. This is necessary, 
as gelatine packs very solidly, and it cannot be properly 
measured while in the box. Place the gelatine in the 
water to melt, and set it in a warm place on the range 
for fifteen minutes. When the milk and chocolate have 
boiled an hour, add the dissolved gelatine and the sugar, 
and cook five minutes longer, stirring two or three times. 
Then remove the mixture from the fire, and Strain 



PUDDINGS. 415 

it through a fine wire sieve into an earthern mold that 
has been wet with cold water ; and when nearly cold, add 
the vanilla. An oily substance will rise to the top, and 
this must be carefully skimmed off two or three times 
during the next hour. When the oil has ceased to rise, 
set the pudding in a cool place over night ; if it is sum- 
mer, set the dish in the ice-chest. When ready to server 
turn the blanc-mange out on a small platter, and send to 
table with a 

MILK SAUCE. 

One pint of milk. 

Two table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

One-half table-spoonful of vanilla. 

Mix the ingredients, stirring well to dissolve the sugar. 

This pudding maybe made in the morning when dinner 
is served at night, but to insure its being firm by dinner 
time, set it at once on the ice. Gelatine hardens quite 
slowly, requiring six or eight hours to become properly 
firm. 

GELATINE PUDDING. 

The quantity given below will make enough for five 
persons. 

One-half box of gelatine. 
One-half pint of cold water 
One-haff pint of boiling water. 
One tea-cupful of sugar. 
Two small lemons. 
Two eggs (whites). 

Place the gelatine in a quart cup, pour over it the cold 
water, and after it has stood five minutes, add the boiling 



4 1 THE PA TTERN CO OK-B O OK. 

water. Stir until the gelatine is dissolved, setting it in a 
warm place. If the gelatine is still undissolved, let it 
stand on the back of the range for ten minutes after add- 
ing the hot water. Remove from the range, add the 
sugar, and when the mixture is lukewarm, add the juice 
of the lemons ; no pains need be taken to keep out the 
seeds, for all has to be strained. If the mixture in the 
cup does not now measure a pint and a-half, add enough 
cold water to bring it to that measurement ; then strain 
through a fine sieve into a large pitcher or earthernware 
bowl. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and 
stir them into the gelatine, beating well. The pitcher 
will be found the most convenient receptacle in which to 
beat the pudding. Pour the whole into a pretty glass 
serving dish, and set it in the ice-chest to remain over 
night. The egg will rise and settle evenly upon the top of 
the pudding. 

Beat the yolks of the eggs a moment, add two table- 
spoonfuls of milk or wat^r to them, and set them in a 
cool place to be used the next day in making the 

CUSTARD SAUCE. 

One pint of milk. 

Two eggs (yolks). 

Two table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of salt. 

One tea-spoonful of vanilla. 

One tea-spoonful of corn-starch. 

Wet the corn-starch in a little of the milk, and add to 
it the beaten yolks. Place the rest of the milk in a 
double boiler to heat, and when scalding stir in the mix- 
ture of egg and corn-starch. Let the whole boil only 



PUDDINGS. 417 

about one minute after it thickens, and add the sugar and 
salt. Remove from the fire, and when the sauce is cold 
put in the vanilla, and set on the ice until needed. If 
the eggs are large, the corn-starch will not be needed ; or 
three yolks may be used for the custard, omitting the 
corn-starch in this case. In serving, pour a portion of 
the sauce around the pudding as it is placed on each 
dessert plate, but do not pour it on top. 

This dessert is easily and quickly made, the pud- 
ding itself really not requiring fire if hot water is at 
hand. 

CHOCOLATE CORN-STARCH. 

This pudding is to be eaten cold, and the following 
quantities will suffice for six persons. 

One pint of milk. 
One table-spoonful of corn-starch. 
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar. 
Two eggs (yolks). 
One-quarter tea-spoonful of salt. 
One tea-spoonful of vanilla. 
One-half tea-spoonful of butter. 

Beat the yolks of the eggs, and add to them a little of 
the milk ; then wet the corn-starch with a small quantity 
of the milk, and stir the two mixtures together. Place 
the rest of the milk on the fire in a milk-boiler, and 
when boiling, stir in the corn-starch, eggs, etc. Let the 
whole cook five minutes, add the salt, sugar and butter, 
and remove from the fire ; pour the pudding into a pud- 
ding dish, and when partly cooled, add the flavoring, stir- 
ring it in well. 
27 



4 1 8 THE FA 7 7'A RiV CO OK-B O OK. 

FOR THE CHOCOLATE. 

One-half cupful of milk. 
One-half cupful of grated chocolate. 
Three table-spoonfuls of sugar. 
One table spoonful of vanilla. 
Two eggs (whites). 

Place the milk and chocolate together in a small sauce- 
pan set in another containing hot water, and cook until 
the chocolate is smooth and thick — generally about live 
minutes — stirring all the time. Add the sugar, remove 
from the fire, stir until cooled and put in the vanilla. 
Spread the chocolate mixture carefully, a spoonful at a 
time, over the corn-starch in the dish. Beat the whites 
of the eggs stiff, add one table-spoonful of sugar and two 
or three drops of vanilla, spread this icing on top of the 
chocolate, and brown delicately in the oven. 

This pudding should be in three layers when finished, 
first the corn-starch, then the chocolate, and then the 
browned whites of the eggs, which are called the 
meringue. It does not require sauce, and will be found 
a very dainty dessert by those who are fond of chocolate. 

ORANGE PUDDING. 

This pudding is to be served cold without sauce, and 
the following ingredients are sufficient for six persons. 

Three oranges. 

One-half a lemon (juice). 

One pint of milk. 

One table-spoonful of corn-starch. 

One cupful of sugar. 

Two eggs. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of salt. 



PUDDINGS. 



419 



Peel the oranges, removing all the tough while skin ; 
and cut them into pieces half the size of a nutmeg, tak- 
ing out the tough portion in the center. Place the 
oranges in a pudding-dish, squeeze the lemon-juice over 
them, add half a cupful of the sugar, stir up, and let the 
whole stand while the rest of the pudding is being pre- 
pared. Beat the yolks of the eggs, stir in two tea-spoon- 
fuls of milk, add the same quantity of milk to the 
corn-starch, and beat these two mixtures together. Heat 
the rest of the milk in a milk-boiler, and when boiling, 
add the eggs, corn-starch, etc. Cook five minutes, add 
the salt and the rest of the sugar, remove from the fire, 
and lay the mixture a spoonful at a time on top of the 
oranges in the dish. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, 
add to them a table-spoonful of sugar, spread the icing 
on top of the pudding, and brown it delicately in the 
oven. This pudding should not be made over night, as 
the oranges would in that time give off too much of their 
juice. 

BAKED LEMON PUDDING. 
One pint of milk. 
Two eggs. 

One lemon (juice, and half the rind). 
One cupful of bread-crumbs. 
One-quarter cupful of butter. 
One-half cupful of sugar. 

Soak the bread-crumbs in the milk for half an hour. 
Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, add the beaten 
yolks of the eggs, stir well, and put in the bread and 
milk, the lemon-juice and half the grated rind. Butter a 
pudding-dish, turn in the mixture, and bake slowly for 



420 THE FATTERiV COOK-BOOK. 

twenty minutes. Beat the whites stiff, add to them one 
table-spoonful of sugar, spread them on top of the baked 
pudding, and brown the surface delicately. Serve cold 
without sauce. 

ESTELLA PUDDING. 

The following is sufficient for eight persons, being 
served hot. 

Three eggs. 

Two and one-half table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

Three-quarters cupful of sweet milk. 

One cupful of raisins. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

One-half teaspoonful of salt. 

Flour to thicken. 

Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, add the eggs, 
well beaten, stir thoroughly, and put in the milk and salt. 
Seed the raisins, and chop them coarsely, cutting each 
raisin in only about four pieces. Scatter the baking- 
powder on top of the mixture, add a little flour, stirring it 
in well, and then add enough more flour to make a rather 
thick batter ; lastly stir in the raisins. Butter a tin basin 
or a pudding-mold, turn in the pudding, set the vessel in 
a steamer over a kettle of boiling hot water, and steam 
forty-five minutes. Serve with a sauce made of one pint 
of milk, sweetened to taste and flavored with vanilla. ' 

TAPIOCA PUDDING. 

This is to be eaten hot without sauce. For five per- 
sons allow 



PUDDINGS. 42 1 

One egg. 

One pint of milk. 

One-half cupful of pearl tapioca. 

One-half cupful of sugar. 

One tea-spoonful of butter. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-quarter teaspoonful of cinnamon. 

One-eighth tea-spoonful of nutmeg. 

Wash the tapioca, and soak it over night in enough 
water to cover it. In the morning add the milk, and 
place the tapioca on the back of the range to soak one 
hour, but do not let the milk boil : then add the beaten 
egg and the sugar, spice, salt and butter. Bake an hour 
in a moderate oven. 

SIMPLE CORN-STARCH BLANC-MANGE. 

This is an especially wholesome dessert for little chil- 
dren. To make enough for five persons, allow 

One pint of milk. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One tea-spoonful of vanilla. 

Two table-spoonfuls of corn-starch. 

Two table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

Wet the corn-starch in half a cupful of the milk ; then 
heat the rest of the milk in a milk-boiler, and when it is 
boiling, add the ccrn-starch. Cook eight or ten minutes, 
and then put in the salt, and sugar. Remove from the 
fiite, and when partly cooled, add the vanilla. Turn the 
mixture into a pudding-dish, that has been previously wet 
with cold water, and set it away in a cold place. When 
cold and firm, turn it out of the dish, and serve with it a 
cream sauce or a 



422 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

CHOCOLATE SAUCE. 

One-half cupful of grated chocolate. 
One-half cupful of milk. 
One-half cupful of sugar. 
Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla. 

Boil the milk and chocolate together until they form a 
smooth paste, them add the sugar, and lastly the vanilla 
when the whole has cooled. This pudding is also deli- 
cious served alone with strawberries and sugar. 

COCOANUT PUDDING. 

The quantity given below will serve five persons. The 
pudding is eaten hot, without sauce 

One-half cupful of cocoanut. 

One-half cupful of bread-crumbs. 

One pint of milk. 

One egg. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

Two table-spoonfuls of sugar. ^ 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. # 

Soak the bread and cocoanut m the milk for three 
hours ; then mash the bread fine, and add the sugar, salt 
and melted butter. Beat the white and yolks of the egg 
separately, and add first the yolk and then the white, 
stirring vi^ell. Bake half an hour. 

BOILED RICE PUDDING. 

This IS a very creamy pudding and is served cold. 
For five persons allow as follows : 

One and one-half tea-cupfuls of boiled rice. 
Two-thirds of a tea-cupful of raisins. 



». PUDDINGS. 423 

Two eggs. 

One-half tea-cupful of sugar. 

One pint of milk. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-eighth tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 

Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs, add to the 
yolks two table-spoonfuls of the milk, and place the rest 
of the milk on the fire in a double boiler. Wash and 
stone the raisins (or they may be left unseeded if 
desired,) put them in the milk, and cook them until soft 
and tender — usually fifteen minutes. Add the rice, cook 
five minutes longer, and then stir in the yolks of the eggs 
and the salt, sugar and spice. Stir well, cook two or 
three minutes, remove from the fire, and pour the pud- 
ding into the serving dish. Beat the whites of the eggs 
light, add to them one table-spoonful of sugar, spread the 
froth on top of the pudding, and brown delicately in the 
oven. 

BAKED APPLE PUDDING. 

This is served cold without sauce. The following 
quantity will provide for six persons. The apples 
should be quite tart. 

Six good-sized apples. 

Two eggs. 

One pint of milk. » 

One-half cupful of water. 

Twelve tea-spoonfuls of sugar. 

One and one-half tea-spoonfuls of cinnamon. 

One and one-half tea-spoonfuls of butter. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One tea-spoonful of vanilla. 

Pare the apples, carefully extract the cores from the 



424 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

stem-end, and place in each cavity thus made two tea- 
spoonfuls of sugar, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of cin- 
namon and the same of butter, putting the butter on the 
top. Set the apples in a baking-dish, add the water, and 
bake until tender. Do not bake them until they break, 
as that would spoil the attractiveness of the. pudding. 
While the apples are baking, prepare the rest of the pud- 
ding. Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs, add to 
the yolks a table-spoonful of the cold milk, place the rest 
of the milk on the fire in a double-boiler, and when it 
boils, add the yolks. Cook only a minute after the milk 
boils again, then add the salt, and sugar to taste. Remove 
from the fire, and when nearly cold, add the vanilla. As 
soon as the apples are done, pour this custard around 
them. Should there seem to be an excess of juice from 
baking the apples, drain off nearly all of it before adding 
the custard. If left in the dish it will make the custard 
too thin. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, add one 
table-spoonful of sugar, place a table-spoonful of the white 
on top of each apple, return to the oven, and brown 
lightly. 

BAKED INDIAN PUDDING 

One cupful of Indian meal. 
One cupful of molasses. 
One-half cupful of raisins. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
One quart of milk. 
One egg. 

One-half tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 
One-half tea-spoonful of ginger. 

Place the milk in a double-boiler, and when scalding 
hot, add the meal, stirring constantly until there are no 



PUDDINGS. 425 

lumps. Cook twenty minutes, and turn into a pudding- 
dish; then add the rest of the ingredients, except the ^gg. 
Stir well, and when cooled, add the beaten ^gg. Bake 
an hour in a rather slow oven, and serve hot. 

SUET PUDDING. 

The following recipe makes a pudding large enough 
for ten persons ; one-half will usually be sufficient for 
one dessert. The portion left over will be equally good 
when warmed again. It should be steamed for warming 
over. 

One cupful of chopped suet. 

One cupful of raisins. 

One cupful of molasses. 

One cupful of milk (preferably sour). 

Three cupf uls of sifted flour. 

One tea-spoonful of soda. 

One tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 

One tea-spoonful of cloves. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-half a nutmeg (grated). 

Chop the suet fine, and add to it the spice and salt. 
Warm the molasses, add to it the soda, and when the lat- 
ter is dissolved, turn the molasses over the dry mixture, 
stir quickly, and put in the milk. Add the flour slowly as 
it may not all be needed ; for flour varies so much that it 
is always difficult to apportion it in any recipe. The 
pudding should not be too thick ; when the track of the 
mixing spoon, when turned quickly round in the batter, 
disappears slowly, the batter is generally thick enough. 
Butter a tin basin or a pudding-mold, pour the pudding 
in, set the whole in a steamer, over a kettle of boiling 



426 THE PA TVER AT COOK-BOOK. 

water, and steam for three hours. Serve with the foUow- 



SNOW SAUCE. 

One small cupful of sugar. 

One large table-spoonful of butter. 

One egg. 

Three table-spoonfuls of hot water. 

Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, add the yolk of 
the Q^^^ and stir well. Set the bowl containing the sauce 
over the mouth of the tea-kettle, or stand it in a basin 
of hot water ; add one table-spoonful of the hot water, stir 
well, add another portion of the hot water, and finally 
the third table-spoonful, allowing about a minute to 
-elapse between these additions. If the sugar is not by this 
time entirely dissolved, leave the bowl in the steam of the 
kettle or in the basin until the sauce is like a golden 
syrup. Then remove it from the fire, and pour it into the 
sauce boat. Beat the white of the &gg stiff, lay it on top 
ofthe sauce, and serve. The white should be stirred in 
after the sauce is placed upon the table. This recipe is 
infallible. 

LEMON PUDDING. 

This pudding is eaten cold, without sauce. For a fam- 
ily of six allow 

One cupful of sugar. 

Two eggs. 

Two table-spoonfuls of- corn-starch. 

One pint of milk. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

Two lemons (juice of both, and rind of one). 



PUDDINGS. 427 

Wet the corn-starch in a little of the miik, place the 
rest of the milk on the lire in a milk boiler, and when it 
boils, add the corn-starch. After this has boiled five min- 
utes, add the butter, remove the corn-starch from the fire, 
and set it away to cool. Beat the yolks of the eggs light, 
stir in the sugar, mix very thoroughly, and add the lemon- 
juice and the grated rind. Beat this mixture to a stiff 
cream, and gradually stir it into the corn-starch, which 
should be quite cool by this time. Stir well, and when 
perfectly well mixed, pour the pudding into a buttered 
pudding-dish, and bake slowly for half an hour. Beat the 
whites of the eggs stiff, add to them one lable-spoonful of 
sugar, spread them on top of the pudding, and brown 
nicely. 

J^ICE PUDDING WITH LEMON. 

One pint of cooked rice. 

One pint of milk. 

Two table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of corn-starch. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One tea-spoonful of butter. 

Two eggs (whites). 

Wet the corn-starch in a table-spoonful of the milk, 
place the rice and the rest of the milk together in a 
double-boiler, and boil them ten minutes ; then add the 
corn-starch, cook five minutes more, and stir in the rest of 
the ingredients, adding only half the sugar ; then turn the 
whole into a pudding-dish. Beat the whites of the eggs 
stiif, add the other half of the sugar, spread the 
egg on top of the pudding, and brown nicely. Serve 
with a 



428 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

LEMON SATTCE. 

Two eggs (yolks). 

One cupful of sugar. 

One large lemon, (juice and half the grated rind). 

Beat the yolks well, add the sugar, and stir until 
creamy ; then add the juice of the lemon and the grated 
rind, stir thoroughly, and serve. Oranges may be used 
in place of the lemons, and one orange with half a lemon 
will also make a pleasing combination. This forms a 
particularly pretty dessert, the pudding being very white 
and the sauce a golden yellow. 

CREAM TAPIOCA PUDDING. 

The following recipe will make enough for seven per- 
sons. The pudding is a most satisfactory one and is to 
be eaten cold without sauce. 

Three table-spoonfuls of pearl tapioca. 

Three table-spoonfuls of prepared cocoanut. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One quart of milk. 

Four eggs. 

One cupful of sugar. 

• Soak the tapioca over night in enough water or milk to 
cover it. In the morning place it in a milk boiler with 
the quart of milk, and boil it half an hour. Beat the 
yolks of the eggs, the sugar and the cocoanut well 
together, add this mixture to the milk, and boil ten min- 
utes longer ; then put in the salt, and pour the whole into 
a pudding-dish. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, add to 
them a table-spoonful of sugar, spread them on top of the 



PUDDINGS. 429 

pudding, sprinkle a thin layer of cocoanut over the top 
of the egg, and brown delicately in the oven. 

BAKED BATTER PUDDING. 

One pint of flour 

One quart of milk. 

Four eggs. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Stir the flour into the milk, beat well, and when 
smooth, add the beaten eggs and the salt. Butter a pud- 
ding-dish, pour in the batter, bake one hour in a rather 
hot oven, and serve immediately with 

HARD SAUCE. 

One-half cupful of butter. 
One cupful of powdered sugar. 
Flavoring to suit. 

Beat the butter to a cream, and gradually add the 
sugar. The flavoring may be of any preferred variety. 
If wine is chosen, use three table-spoonfuls of it, beat- 
ing it in gradually. If lemon or vanilla extract is 
preferred add a scanty tea-spoonful ; or the rind and juice 
of a fresh lemon may be used. As soon as the sauce is 
finished heap it lightly and roughly on the dish in which 
it is to be served, and set it in the ice chest until needed. 
The pudding is sometimes spread with" butter by each 
person at table individually and eaten with lemon-juice 
and sugar instead of a sauce. 

CAKE CREAM PUDDING. 

Three eggs. 

One cupful of sugar. 



^ 



430 THE FA TTEKN COOK-BOOK. - 

One and one-half cupfuls of flour 

Two table-spoonfuls of water 

One-half tea-spoonful of baking-powder. 

Stir the baking-powder into the flour ; then beat the 
eggs light, add to them first the water and sugar and then 
the flour, and bake on two buttered pie-tins. When the 
cakes are done split each with a fork, and place inside it 
the following cream. 

CREAM. 

One pint of sweet milk. 
One tea-spoonful of vanilla. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
One-quarter cupful of butter. 
Three-quarters cupful of sugar. 
Two table-spoonfuls of corn-starch 

Wet the corn-starch in a little of the milk, add the but- 
ter to the rest of the milk, and place the latter in the 
milk boiler to heat ; and when the milk boils, stir in the 
corn-starch. Cook five minutes, stirring frequently ; then 
add the sugar and salt, and as soon as these are dissolved 
remove the cream from the fire. When nearly cold add 
the flavoring, and use. This dessert is delicious served 
with strawberries. 

BLACKBERRY PUDDING. 

One pint of molasses. 

One dessert-spoonful of soda. 

One quart of flour. 

One quart of blackberries. 

Warm the molasses, dissolve the soda in it, and add the 
flour first and then the berries. Butter a tin basin or a 



Pi DDINGS. 43 I 

pudding-mould, pour ihe pudding in, set it in a steamer 
over a kettle of boiling water, and steam one hour. Serve 
with hard sauce. This pudding may be baked, if more 
convenient, but it is much more satisfactory when 
steamed as above. 

SIMPLE FRUIT PUDDING. 

Stew currants or any of the small fruits or berries, 
either fresh or dried, with sugar to season. Cut bakers' 
bread into thin slices, and remove the crusts ; then place 
a layer of bread in a pudding-dish, cover it rather 
thickly with the stewed fruit, add another layer of bread 
and fruit, and so continue until all the latter has been 
used, leaving an extra thick layer of fruit on the top. 
Lay a plate on top of the pudding, and when the fruit is 
cool, set the whole upon the ice. Serve thoroughly cold 
with cream and sugar. 

APPLE SNOW. 

Six large apples. 

Two tea-cupfuls of sugar. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One and a-half lemon (juice of both and rind of one). 

One pint of milk. 

Four eggs. 

Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs, beat the 
yolks well, and add to them three table-spoonfuls of the 
milk. Place the rest of the milk on the fire in a double- 
boiler, and when it boils, add the beaten yolks. Let it 
boil about a minute, add a tea-cupful of the sugar and the 
salt, remove from the fire, and when cooled, pour the 
custard into a glass serving-dish. Bake the apples quite 



432 THE PA TTERN CO OK-B O OK. 

whole in a covered dish, adding a little water to prevent 
burning. When tender enough to be pierced with a 
straw, take them out of the oven, remove the skins, and 
scrape out the pulp, being careful to avoid any pieces of 
the cores. Mix into this pulp the remaining sugar, the 
lemon-juice and the grated rind of one lemon. Beat the 
whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add the cold pulp 
very gradually, beating until the .whole is white and fine. 
Pile this snow upon the custard, set in a very cold place, 
and serve when thoroughly cold. 

CURATE PUDDING. {Hot.) 

Three eggs. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla. 
One cupful of flour. 
Two-thirds cupful of butter. 
Two-thirds cupful of sugar. 

Warm the butter, and beat it to a cream ; then grad- 
ually add the flour and sugar, and beat well until the 
whole is perfectly smooth. Beat the eggs very light, and 
add them and the vanilla, stirring all well. Butter small 
cups or tins, fill them a little more than half full of the 
mixture, and bake in a brisk oven for about half an hour. 
When done, turn the puddings out upon the serving-dish, 
and pour around them the following sauce. 

WINE SAUCE, NO. I. 

One and one-half table-spoonful of butter. 

One table-spoonful of flour. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

Two table-spoonfuls of sherry wine. 

Hot water. 



PUDDINGS. 433 

Pour boiling water into a small earthenware bowl, let it 
stand one minute, pour it out, and place the butter in the 
hot bowl ; this will warm the butter sufficiently. Beat 
the butter until soft, add the flour, and beat again until 
a smooth, creamy paste is formed. Gradually add boil- 
ing water, stirring all the time, until the whole is the 
thickness of rich cream. Pour the mixture into a stew- 
pan, stir well, and cook three minutes, adding a little 
more water if the sauce is too thick. When done, add 
the salt, sugar and wine, and serve. Taste the sauce 
before serving, and add more sugar, wine or butter if not 
sufficiently well seasoned. 

FARINA PUDDING. 

One quart of milk. 

Three eggs. 

One lemon (half the juice and all the rind). 

One cupful of sugar. 

Four table-spoonfuls of farina. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One tea-spoonful of vanilla. 

One-eighth tea-spoonful of nutmeg. 

Heat the milk in a double-boiler, and when boiling, 
add the farina, and boil half an hour. Just before remov- 
ing it from the fire, put in the butter, stir it well, and 
when it has melted, turn the mixture into a pudding-dish. 
When cooled, add the sugar and vanilla, the grated rind 
of the lemon, the juice and the nutmeg. Separate the 
yolks and whites of the eggs, beat them thoroughly, and 
add first the yolks, stirring them well into the pudding, 
and then the beaten whites, stirring them in only enough 
28 



434 ■ THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

to mix them well. Bake tlie pudding half an hour in a 
quick oven. Serve with the wine sauce of the preceding 
recipe or with the following. 

WINE SAUCE, NO. 2. 

One cupful of butter. 
Two cupfuls of powdered sugar. 
Eight table-spoonfuls of sherry wine. 
A grating of nutmeg. 

Beat the butter until creamy, and gradually add the 
sugar, stirring all the time ; when all the sugar has been 
used, add the wine by spoonfuls, still stirring. Beat the 
mixture until it becomes a smooth, light froth, set the bowl 
in a basin of hot water, and stir for two minutes. Fill 
the sauce-boat with boiling water to heat it, and when the 
sauce has cooked sufficiently, empty the boat, pour in the 
sauce, grate a bit of nutmeg on the top, and serve hot. 

GRAHAM PUDDING. 

One cupful of Graham flour. 
One cupful of wheat flour. 
One cupful of molasses. 
One cupful of sweet milk. 
One egg. 

One tea-spoonful of soda. 
One cupful of raisins. 

Warm the molasses, add the soda to it, and stir in the 
two kinds of flour well sifted together ; then gradually 
add the milk, then the egg well beaten, and lastly the 
stoned raisins. Place the mixture in a buttered basin or 
in a pudding-mould, set it in a steamer over a kettle of 
hot water, and steam two hours. Serve with the following 



PUDDINGS, 435 



EGG SAUCE. 



One cupful of powdered sugar. 
One-half cupful of butter. 
Two eggs. 
Flavoring. 

Beat the butter to a cream, gradually add the sugar, 
beating well, and lastly stir in the beaten eggs, and any 
desired flavoring. 

STRAWBERRY PUFF PUDDING. 

This pudding is to be served hot. For six persons 
allow 

One pint of flour. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One quart of strawberries. 

Sweet milk. 

Sugar. 

Stir the powder into the flour, and add milk, stirring 
all the time until a rather thick batter is formed. Have 
ready six well greased tea-cups, the hulled strawberries 
and a cupful of sugar. Put a spoonful of the batter in a 
cup, then a thick layer of berries, next two tea-spoon- 
fuls of sugar upon the berries and finally another thin 
layer of the batter. Repeat this until all the batter has 
been used when the cups should not be more than two- 
thirds full. Set them in a steamer over a kettle of boiling 
water, and steam half an hour. There should be no 
delay in serving as soon as, done, for the puffs fall 
verv quickly. Serve with a 



436 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

STRAWBERRY SAUCE. 
Two eggs. 

One-half cupful of butter. 
One cupful of boiling milk. 
One cupful of strawberries. 
One cupful of sugar. 

Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, add the eggs, 
well beaten, and stir in the berries. Set the bowl con- 
taining the sauce in a basin of hot water, gradually add 
the hot milk, cook two minutes, and send to table. Other 
berries may be used as the strawberries are in this case. 

PUDDING OF STALE CAKE. 

Chocolate layer-cake is the best variety to use in this 
way, but any other kind will do. Make a s.oft custard of 

Two eggs (yolks). 
One pint of milk. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

Beat the yolks with a little of the cold milk ; heat the 
rest of the milk, and when it boils, add the ' ^'■-■ 
two minutes, add the salt and sugar, and .c i.ium 

the fire. Break the cake into pieces, — which for this 
quantity of custard should measure not more than a pint. 
Place the cake in a pudding-dish, pour over it the custard, 
and bake twenty minutes. Beat the whites of the eggs 
stiff, add one table-spoonful of sugar, spread the egg over 
the top, and brown delicately in the oven. Serve cold. 

QUEEN OF PUDDINGS. 

This may be eaten hot or cold. The following quanti- 
ties will answer for eight persons. 



PUDDINGS. 437 

Two cupfuls of bread-crumbs. 
One quart of milk. 
Four eggs. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 
One lemon (rind and juice). 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
One-half cupful of jelly. 
One cupful of sugar. 

Soak the crumbs in the milk for half an hour. Beat 
the yolks and sugar together until light, add them to the 
crumbs and milk, stir well, and put in the lemon. Pour 
the whole into a pudding-dish, and bake half an hour. 
Whip the whites of the eggs stiff, and add to them three 
table-spoonfuls of sugar ; when the pudding is done, 
place on top of it a layer of the egg, then a layer of jelly 
and lastly the rest of the egg, and brown to a delicate 
color. If a sauce is preferred, the simple cream sauce 
will be most suitable. 

APPLE ROLY-POLY. 

One pint of flour. 

One tea-spoonful of baking-powder. 
,, One tea-spoonful of salt, 

•milk. 
One table-spoonful of lard or butter. 
One tea-cupful of sugar. 
Two tea-spoonfuls of cinnamon. 
Apples. 

Sift the flour, baking-powder and salt well together, 
rub the lard into them, and when all is thoroughly mixed, 
add sufficient sweet milk to make a soft dough. Turn 
the dough out upon the moulding-board, mould it smooth, 
sifting flour under it to prevent its sticking to the board, 
and roll it into a sheet a-quarter of an inch thick. Spread 



438 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

this thickly with sliced apples, and sift over them the 
sugar and cinnamon. Roll the dough up the same as 
jelly cake, press the overlapping parts of dough well to 
the body of the pudding and also press the ends well to 
prevent the escape of the juices. Place the pudding on a 
plate, set the plate in a steamer over a kettle of hot water, 
and steam an hour and a-half. Serve with wine sauce, 
No. I. 

BAKED APPLE PUDDING. 

The dough for this is made the same as the preceding. 
Slice enough apples to nearly fill the pudding-dish, sea- 
soning them with sugar and cinnamon. After the dough 
is smoothed on the board roll it just the size of the top 
of the dish, lay it on top of the apples, and bake one 
hour. Serve with cream sauce, or with wine sauce. No. 2. 

bird's-nest pudding. 

This dessert is to be eaten hot. To make enough for 
seven persons take 

Six medium-sized apples. 

One cupful of sugar. 

One-half cupful of milk. 

One-half cupful of water. 

Flour. 

One tea-spoonful of baking-powder. 

One tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 

One egg. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

Peel and core the apples, and cut them into eighths. 
Place them in a pudding-dish with half the sugar, the cin- 
namon and the water, and bake them until nearly done — 



PUDDINGS. 439 

generally about twenty minutes. While the apples are 
cooking, rub the butter and the rest of the sugar together, 
add the beaten ^^g^ stir well, and add the milk. Sift the 
baking-powder and half a tea-cupful of flour together, and 
add them to the mixture, stirring in more flour until a 
rather thick batter is formed. When the apples are ten- 
der, but not quite done, remove the dish from the oven, 
stir the apples well, carefully turn the batter over the top 
of them, return the dish to the oven, and bake twenty 
minutes. Serve with cream sauce. 

CHOCOLATE PUDDING. 

One quart of milk. 

Ten table-spoonfuls of grated bread. 

Four table-spoonfuls of grated chocolate. 

One cupful of sugar. 

One tea-spoonful of butter. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

Four eggs. 

Heat the milk, and when it is boiling, stir in the bread, 
sugar, chocolate, salt and butter. Boil three minutes, 
remove from the fire, and turn the pudding into a pud- 
ding dish. Reserve the whites of two of the eggs, beat 
the other two whites and the four yolks well together, 
and add them to the pudding, stirring them in well ; 
then bake half an hour. Beat the two whites stiff, 
add a table-spoonful of sugar, spread the ^gg on top of 
the pudding, and brown delicately in the oven. This is 
eaten cold without sauce. 

ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING. 

This recipe was awarded the two-guinea prize lately 



440 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

offered by the Queen, for which there were five hundred 
competitors. The following will make a pudding weigh- 
ing six pounds. 

One pound of raisins. 

One pound of sue.\ 

Three-quarters pound of stale bread-crumbs. 

One-quarter pound of brown sugar. 

One lemon (rind only). 

One-half pound orange peel (candied). 

One-quarter pound of flour. 

One pound of currants. 

One-half of a nutmeg grated. 

Five eggs. 

One-half pint of brandy. 

Chop the suet fine, mince the orange peel, clean, wash 
and dry the currants, stone the raisins, and mix all the 
dry ingredients together. Beat thc^- --oro-s, add to them 
the brandy; pour this liquid over -.... i^^ mixture, and 
mix thoroughly. Pack the pudding into well greased 
pudding-moulds, and boil six hours as soon as made, and 
six hours when wanted for use. (For boiling pudding, 
see page 456.) Serve with 

BRANDY SAUCE. 

F'our table-spoonfuls of butter. 
Two eggs (whites only). 
One cupful of powdered sugar. 
Four table-spoonfuls of brandy. 
Four table-spoonfuls of boiling water. 

Rub the butter to a cream, gradually add the sugar, 
and beat until white and light. Then add the whites one 
at a time, beating all the while. When ready to serve. 



PUDDINGS. 441 

add the brandy and boiling water, set the bowl containing 
the sauce in a basin of hot water over the fire, stir until 
light and creamy, and serve. 

BREAD PUDDING. 

This pudding is served hot ; and the following propor- 
tions are sufficient for seven persons. 

One pint of stale bread. 

One quart of milk. 

Three table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

Two eggs. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Place the bread in the milk, and after it has soaked 
two hours, mash .. very fine. Beat the eggs light, and 
add to them the sugar and salt. When well mixed, stir 
this into the brt^.K and milk, pour the whole into an 
earthenwar^ .. ^ dish, and bake three-quarters of an 
hour in a rather slow oven. Serve with 

VANILLA SAUCE. 

Two eggs (whites and one yolk). 
One-half cupful of granulated sugar. 
Three table-spoonfuls of milk. 
One tea-spoonful of vanilla. 

Separate the yolks from the whites, beat the latter to a 
stiff froth, and add the sugar, stirring it in vigorously. 
Beat one of the yolks well, stir it thoroughly into the 
milk, add the vanilla, and place the mixture in the sauce-, 
boat. Heap the beaten whites on top, and stir them in 
just before serving and after the sauce is on the table. 
The other yolk is not required in the sauce. 



442 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

CHERRY PUDDING. 

This is a large recipe, two-thirds being sufficient for a 
family of six. 

Three eggs. 

Two quarts of cherries. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

One and one-half pint of stale bread-crumbs. 

One pint of flour. 

One pint of milk. 

One table-spoonful of sugar. 

One-quarter of a nutmeg. 

Soak the bread in the milk for one hour. Mix the 
sugar, salt, baking-powder, flour and nutmeg together, 
sifting all through a sieve. Mash the bread in the milk, 
stir into it the flour mixture, mix well, add the eggs, well 
beaten, and lastly put in the cherries, which may be 
stoned or not, as preferred. This pudding may be 
steamed or boiled. If to be steamed, butter the pudding- 
tin thoroughly, turn into it the mixture, allowing space 
for the pudding to increase one-third in size, and steam 
two hours and a-half. If to be boiled, dip the pudding 
bag in boiling water, spread it out, dredge it well on the 
inside with flour, pour in the mixture, and tie it up 
securely. Have a tin plate at the bottom of a kettle that 
is half full of boiling water. Place the pudding in this 
kettle, and boil it constantly for four hours, replenishing 
the water as needed from the boiling tea-kettle. When 
done, lift the pudding out, plunge it into cold water, 
remove it immediately and turn it out upon a platter. 
Serve with a sauce made the same as strawberry sauce 



PUDDINGS. 443 

(see page 436), substituting for the berries one cupful of 
cherries that have been slightly stewed. 

APPLE TAPIOCA PUDDING. 

Three-quarter cupful of pearl tapioca. 

One quart of water. 

One lemon. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

Seven apples. 

Fourteen tea-spoonfuls of sugar. 

Soak the tapioca over night in the water ; or if the fine 
tapioca is used three hours of soaking will suffice. One 
hour before dinner time, place the water and tapioca 
in a double boiler, and boil until the tapioca is trans- 
parent, usually about thirty minutes. Stir it often, and 
add the salt just before taking the tapioca from the fire. 
Pare and core the apples, place in the cavity made by 
each core two tea-spoonfuls of sugar, and divide the 
juice of the lemon among the seven apples. Place a 
little dot of butter on top of each apple, arrange the apples 
in a baking-dish, pour the tapioca over them, and bake 
until they are soft, usually thirty or forty minutes. 
Serve hot with cream and sugar. 

BLACK PUDDING. 

One cupful of molasses. 

One cupful of warm water. 

Two and one-half cupfuls of flour. 

One cupful of raisins. 

One scanty tea-spoonful of soda. 

One-half scant tea-spoonful of salt. 

One egg. 



444 ^^^ ^^ TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Place the water and molasses together, add the soda, 
and stir all well to dissolve the latter. Add the salt and 
flour and then the egg well beaten, stirring vigorously 
after each addition. Stone the raisins, chop them rather 
coarse and add them the last thing. Butter a pudding 
mould or a basin, turn the mixture into it, set the basin 
in a steamer over a kettle of boiling water, and steam two 
hours. Serve with the following 

SUGAR SAUCE. 

One cupful of white sugar. 
One-half cupful of butter. 
Two eggs. 
Vanilla to flavor. 

Rub the butter and sugar together until they form a 
froth_y cream. Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs, 
add first the yolks, well beaten, and stir them well into 
the butter and sugar ; and then add the beaten whites, 
which have been whipped to a stiff froth. Beat all well 
together, add the flavoring, and the sauce is then ready to 
use. 

FANCY PUDDING. 

One pint of milk. 

Three eggs (whifes). 

Three table-spoonfuls of corji-starch. 

Three table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. , 

Dissolve the corn-starch in a little of the cold milk, 
place the rest of the milk on the fire in a double-boiler, 
and when it is scalding, add the corn-starch. Let the 
latter boil three minutes, and add the sugar and salt and 



PUDDINGS. 



445 



then the whites of eggs beaten to a stilf froth. Cook but 
a moment, remove the mixture from the fire, pour it into a 
pudding-mould that has been wet in cold water, and set 
it away to cool. Make the following 

FANCY SAUCE. 

One pint of milk. 

Three eggs (yolks). 

Vattilla to flavor. 

One-third cupful of sugar. 

One tea-spoonful of corn-starch. 

One-third tea-spoonful of salt. 

Beat the yolks until light, and stir into them two table - 
spoonfuls of the milk. Add the same quantity of milk to 
the corn-starch, and when the latter is well dissolved stir 
the two mixtures vigorously together. Place the rest of 
the milk on the fire in a double-boiler, and when it is 
scalding, turn into it the mixture of ^gg and corn-starch. 
Let the whole boil two minutes, add the salt and the 
sugar, remove from the fire, and when the sauce is cold, 
add the flavoring. Turn the puddfng out upon a platter, 
pour the sauce about it, and serve. 

COTTAGE PUDDING. 

One cupful of milk. 

Two eggs. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One cupful of sugar. 

Three tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Flour to thicken, about one pint. 

Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the ^gg^ 
well beaten, and then the milk, stirring all well. Sift the 



446 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

baking-powder over the top, and before stirring it in, sift 
over it a little flour. Stir well, adding enough more flour 
to make a rather thick batter ; then pour the batter into a 
buttered dish, and bake thirty minutes. Serve hot with 
milk sauce. (See page 415.) 

CHOCOLATE CUSTARD PUDDING. 

One-half cupful of grated chocolate. 
One and one-half pint of milk. 
Three table-spoonfuls of sugar. 
Two table-spoonfuls of corn-starch. 
Two eggs. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla. 

Place the corn-starch in two table-spoonfuls of the milk 
and dissolve it ; place the yolks of the v^ggs also in two 
table-spoonfuls of the milk, and beat them thin v/ith a 
fork ; then place the two mixtures together. Put the 
rest of the milk on the fire in a double-boiler, and when 
it boils, turn in the grated chocolate, stir well, and let it 
boil five minutes or until the chocolate is perfectly dis- 
solved. Remove the liquid from the fire, and strain it 
through a fine wire strainer ; then return it to the kettle 
or boiler, and when it boils again, stir into it the mixture 
of corn-starch and egg. Add the salt and sugar, stir 
often and let the whole cook six or eight minutes. Turn 
the pudding into a pudding-dish, and add the vanilla. 
Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, add one large table- 
spoonful of sugar, lay the froth on top of the pudding, 
and brown delicately. The above quantity is enough 
for six persons. The pudding is eaten cold, without 
sauce. 



PUDDINGS. 



MINUTE PUDDING. 



447 



One quart of milk. 

One pint of flour. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

One tea-spoonful of butter. 

Two eggs. 
t 
Beat the eggs well, and add the flour and enough of 
the milk to make all smooth. Place the rest of the milk 
on the fire in a double-boiler, and when scalding hot, stir 
in the mixture of flour and egg. Cook ten minutes, add 
the salt and butter, and serve at once with 

NUTMEG SAUCE. 

One pint of milk. 
One-half cupful of sugar. 
Nutmeg to taste. 

Place the sugar and milk together and sift into them 
sufflcient nutmeg to flavor. 

SVl^EDISH PUDDING. 

This pudding is to be served hot. For five persons allow 

Two cupfuls of flour 
One-half cupful of butter. 
One-half cupful of sugar. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
Four eggs. 

Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the 
yolks of the eggs, well beaten, then the salt and flour and 
lastly the beaten whites. Butter five tea-cups, and pour 
the batter into them, filling the cups but half full. Place 
the cups in a steamer over a kettle of boiling water, and 



448 THE FA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Steam them thirty minutes, by which time the batter will 
fill the cups. Turn the puddings out upon a hot platter, 
and pour around them a clear 

BRANDY SAUCE. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 
Four table-spoonfuls of brandy. 
Four table-spoonfuls of boiling water. 
One egg (white). 
One-half cupful of powdered sugar. 

Beat the butter to a cream, gradually add the sugar, 
and beat until white and light ; then add the white, 
beaten to a stiff froth, and stir well. When ready to 
serve, add the brandy and the water, stand the bowl con- 
taining the sauce in a basin of boiling water on the fire, 
and stir until the sauce is light and foamy. It is then 
ready to use. 

TIPSY PUDDING. 

This may be made of any dry cake, sponge-cake being 
preferred. The following recipe is calculated for six 
persons. Saturate six slices of sponge cake with sherry, 
taking care the cake is not soaked enough to fall to 
pieces. Place the cake in the serving dish, and pour over 
it the following 

SOFT CUSTARD. 

One pint of milk. 
Three eggs (yolks). 
One-half teaspoon ful of salt. 
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

Beat the yolks well, and add to them half a cupful of 



PUDDINGS. ^g 

the milk ; place the rest of the milk in a double-boiler on 
the fire, and when scalding hot, stir in the yolks, cook 
one minute, and add the salt and sugar. The custard is 
then ready to use. 

If the pudding is placed in a glass dish, decorate the 
top with the whites of the eggs prepared as follows : 
Beat the whites stiff. Have ready a pint of boiling milk, 
put in a spoonful of the egg, cook it one minute, turn it 
on the other side, and cook one minute longer ; then take 
it up, drain on a dish, and when quite free of milk, lay it 
on top of the custard. This is called " poaching the 
white." Repeat the process until all the egg has been 
prepared, and place a dot of jelly on top of each piece 
of egg before sending the pudding to table. 

If the pudding is served in a platter, beat the whites 
stiff, add two table-spoonfuls of sugar and one tea-spoon- 
ful of vanilla, sprinkle the egg on top of the pudding, and 
brown in the oven. 

RICE CARAMEL PUDDING. 

One cupful of rice. 
One-half cupful of sugar. 
Two eggs. 

Two and a half pints of milk. 
One tea-spoonful of salt. 
One stick of cinnamon. 

Wash the rice, and soak it for three hours in plenty of 
water. Drain off the water at the end of the time, place 
the rice and cinnamon in a double boiler with all but half 
a cupful of the milk, and cook for two hours. Place the 
sugar in a small frying-pan, and stir until it turns brown 
and becomes a liquid. Instantly pour the sugar into a 
-9 



450 THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK. 

three-piiiL mould that has been well warmed on the back 
of the range, and turn the mould around so that the sugar 
will coat all parts of it. As the sugar hardens quickly, 
the work must be expeditiously done or the sugar will not 
spread. Beat the eggs well, add the half-cupful of milk 
reserved, and stir tnis into the boiling rice, adding also 
the salt. Let the whole cook only about a minute after 
boiling up, and then turn the pudding into the sugar- 
lined mould. Cover the mould, place it in a pan of boil- 
ing water, and bake half an hour. When done, remove 
it from the oven, and after it has stood ten minutes, turn 
it out upon a flat dish. Serve with the custard sauce. 
The pudding is served hot and the sauce cold. 

SPONGE BATTER PUDDING. 

One quart of milk. 

Three eggs. 

Three table-spoonfuls of butter. 

One-half cupful of flour. 

One-quarter cupful of sugar. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

Place half the milk on the fire in a double-boiler, and 
stir the other half of the milk into the flour, making a 
paste. When the milk in the boiler is scalding, turn into 
it ihe'paste and stir until the whole is smooth. Cook for 
four minutes, remove from the fire, and add the butter, 
sugar, salt and the beaten yolks ; then let the mixture 
cool slightly, and add the beaten whites. Butter a pud- 
ding dish and pour the batter into it, the dish being so 
large that the batter will but half fill it. Set the dish in 
a large pan, pour into the pan enough hot water to come 
half way up the sides of the dish, and bake the pudding 



PUDDINGS. 45 1 

half an hour in a quick oven. Serve without delay with a 
cream sauce, which is also sent to table hot. 

CREAM SAUCE. 

One cupful of sugar. 

One-half cupful of boiling water. 

One cupful of cream. 

One tea-spoonful of vanilla. 

Place the sugar and water in a porcelain-lined saucepan, 
and boil rapidly for fifteen minutes. Beat the cream well 
with a whisk or a fork, and add it gradually to the syrup. 
Remove the sauce from the fire and add the vanilla. 

PUFFS, WITH ORANGE SAUCE. 

These are served hot and make a delicious dessert. 

One-half cupful of butter. 

One cupful of milk. 

Two cupfuls of flour. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

One cupful of granulated sugar. 

One cupful of powdered sugar. 

Three eggs. 

Two oranges (rind and juice). 

Grate the rind from the oranges, squeeze the juice 
upon the rind and set it away until needed to finish the 
sauce. Beat the butter to a cream, gradually add the 
granulated sugar, and when the cream is well beaten, add 
the unbeaten yolks of the eggs. Beat well again, add 
the milk, and then stir in the flour, with v/hich the pow- 
der has been mixed. Bake for twenty minutes in well 
buttered muffin pans. While the puffs are baking, make 
the sauce. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, and gradu- 



452 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

ally add the powdered sugar and then the orange juice 
and rind ; the sauce is then ready to use. Turn the puffs 
out upon a fiat dish, pour the sauce around them, and 
serve at once. A lemon may be substituted for the 
oranges if preferred. 

CREAM PUFFS. 

The following allowance will make nine large puffs. 

One cupful of sifted flour. 
One cupful of water. 
One-half cupful of butter. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
Three eggs. 
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

Put the butter, sugar, salt and water on the fire in a 
rather large sauce pan, and when the water begins to boil, 
add the flour dry, sifting it in by degrees with the left 
hand, while constantly stirring with the right hand. Stir 
vigorously until the mixture is perfectly smooth, about 
three minutes generally sufficing. Remove the pan from 
the fire, turn the batter into a bowl, and set it away to 
cool. When cool, put in the eggs unbeaten, adding but 
one at a time, and beating vigorously after each addi- 
tion. When the eggs are all in, beat the batter very 
thoroughly until it is smooth and soft, at least fifteen min- 
utes being necessary for this purpose. Lightly butter a 
baking-pan, and drop the mixture into it from a table- 
spoon, using a spoonful for each puif, and placing them 
about an inch apart. Bake thirty minutes in a quick 
oven. These puffs are to be served cold. After taking 
them from the oven, let them cool, split them open and 
put in 



PUDDINGS. 453 

THE CREAM. 

One-half pint of milk. 

One egg (yolk only). 

One and one-half table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

One even table-spoonful of corn-starch. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla. 

One-half tea-spoonful of butter. 

Place the yolk of the egg in a tea-cup, beat it light 
with a fork, and add two table-spoonfuls of the cold milk. 
Place the corn-starch in another cup, add to it the same 
quantity of milk, and when the starch is well dissolved, 
add the ^gg mixture. Place the rest of the milk on the 
fire in a small double-boiler, or in a sauce pan set in 
another containing hot water ; and when it boils, stir in 
the mixture of ^gg and corn-starch. Let the whole boil 
three minutes, add the salt, sugar and butter, remove 
from the fire, and when cool, add the flavoring. Pour a 
small spoonful of the cream into the hollow in each puff, 
replace the top taken ofi" to admit the cream, and serve. 

These puffs may be eaten hot vvithout the cream and 
with a strawberry sauce. 

SILVER PUDDING. 

Five eggs, 
* One quart of milk. 

Oncrhalf cupful of sugar. 
One-half table-spoonful of butter. 
One tea-spoonful of vanilla. 
One-quarter tea-spoonful of salt. 

Butter a quart pudding-mould. Separate the whites of 
the eggs from the yolks, being very careful not to leave a 
particle of yolk with the whites. Put one-third of the 



454 ^^^ ^^ TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

sugar and half a table-spoonful of the milk with the 
whites, and beat the mixture with a spoon until it breaks 
readily when poured from the spoon ; then add a pint of 
the milk, half the extract and half the salt, and when all 
is well blended, pour the mixture through a fine strainer 
into the mould. Set the mould in a pan, and pour 
enough hot water about it to reach almost to its lop. 
Place the whole in a moderate oven for three-quarters of 
an hour, being careful that the water in the pan does not 
boil. When the custard is properly cooked, the blade of 
a knife inserted in it will come forth clear and free from 
any milky appearance. As soon as the custard is done, 
set the mould where it will become very cold. While the 
custard is cooking, place the beaten yolks of the eggs in 
two table-spoonfuls of the remaining pint of milk, set the 
rest of the milk on the fire in a double-boiler, and when 
it is scalding hot, add the ^gg, and cook two minutes ; 
then remove the custard from the fire, add the rest of the 
salt and sugar, and set it away to become thoroughly 
cold, after which the vanilla should be put in. At serv- 
ing time turn the baked custard into a flat glass dish, and 
pour the soft custard around it. This pudding makes a 
good dessert for Sunday dinner, as it is all the better for 
being made the day before it is served. 



STRAWBERRY PUDDING. 

One cupful of flour. 

Two cupfuls of sugar. 

Four eggs. ' 

One tea-spoonful of baking-powder. 

One lemon (juice). 

One quart of strawberries. 

One half pint of cream. 



PUDDINGS. 455 

Beat together a cupful of the sugar, the lemon juice 
and the yolks of the eggs ; also beat the whites to a stiff 
froth, and add them to the yolks and sugar ; then mix the 
powder and flour thoroughly and stir them in gradually. 
Butter a deep, round pan, pour in the mixture, and bake 
forty minutes in a moderate oven. While this cake is 
baking, pick over and crush the berries, add to them 
the rest of the sugar, and set away in a cool place. 
Whip the cream light with a whip-churn or a Dover egg- 
beater, and set it away to cool also. When the cake is 
baked and has become cool, place it in a large pudding- 
dish, pour the strawberries over it, heap the w^hipped 
cream upon the fruit, and serve. More cream may, if 
desired, be used than is called for in this recipe. To 
make this pudding properly, the berries should be very 
juicy when emptied upon the cake. Stale sponge cake 
may be utilized in this way. Raspberries may be used in 
place of strawberries, and will require less sugar. 

RICE BALLS, WLFH CUSTARD. 

One cupful of rice. 
Two and a-half cupfuls of milk. 
One tea-spoonful of salt. 
Jelly for decorating. 

Wash the rice well, and soak it for an hour in enough 
water to cover it. Pour off the water, add the milk, and 
cook for an hour in a double boiler ; then put in the 
salt, and cook half an hour longer. Dip small custard 
cups into cold water, fill them with the cooked rice, and 
set them where they will become cold. At serving time 
turn the mounds of rice out upon a flat dish, and after 
putting a bit of bright jelly upon each, pour about them a 



456 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

soft custard, which will have been made by the following 
recipe : 

SOFT CUSTARD. 

One quart of milk. 

Four eggs (yolks). 

One-half cupful of sugar. 

One table-spoonful of corn-starch. 

One tea-spoonful of vanilla. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of salt. 

Beat the yolks light, and add to them two table-spoon- 
fuls of the cold milk. Thoroughly mix two table-spoon- 
fuls of the milk with the corn-starch, and add the eggs. 
Place the rest of the milk on the fire in a double boiler, 
and when it is hot, stir in the mixture of &^g and corn- 
starch. Cook the whole for five minutes, stirring well ; 
then remove the custard from the fire, add the salt, and 
when cold, flavor with vanilla. This is a cheap custard, 
and it is not, of course, as good as if made wholly of eggs, 
in which case the yolks of six eggs should be used and 
the corn-starch omitted. The rice may be served hot and 
the custard cold, if desired. 

HOW TO BOIL PUDDINGS. 

Puddings may be boiled in a bowl, a mould or a cloth. 
The mould should have a closely fitting top and be well 
buttered, top and all, before the batter is poured in. 
Pudding moulds are usually made with hasps or other 
fastenings, but if these are lacking, tie the cover down 
securely. A tin pail may be used in an emergency ; but 
in such a case the top of the pudding should first be 
covered with a cloth that has been wrung from hot water 
and well dredged with flour, and the cover of the pail 



PUDDINGS. 457 

should then be put on securely. If a bowl is used, butter 
it well, and tie a flannel cloth tightly over the top. The 
cloth should be wrung out of hot water, so the flour will 
adhere to it thickly. But whatever utensil is used in 
which to boil a pudding, it should only be two-thirds full 
when the pudding is first put in ; this is to allow for the 
increase in size caused by the boiling. A pudding bag 
should be made with felled seams at the sides and bot- 
tom, the better to exclude the water. When about to use 
it, wring the bag out of hot water, turn it inside out, and 
dust it very thickly with flour on both sides. Turn it 
back again, put in the pudding, and tie the top of the 
bag securely. The water in the kettle must be boiling 
when the pudding is put into it and should not cease 
boiling for one instant until the pudding is done. The 
bag, mould or bowl should be turned several times under 
the water to prevent it sticking to the kettle. The bag 
should be entirely covered with water, but if a mould is 
used, the water need not reach quite to its top. 

When the proper time of boiling is finished, remove 
the mould or bag from the water, plunge it instantly into 
cold water, and then turn it out without losing a second. 
This prevents sticking, and causes the mould to make a 
clearer impression upon the pudding. Boiled puddings 
must always be served immediately, or they will soon 
grow heavy. Many of the puddings that are baked can 
be more successfully boiled, but twice as much time is 
required for boiling as for baking. 

BOILED INDIAN PUDDING. 

One pint of molasses. 
One pint of milk. 



458 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

One pound of suet. 

Four eggs. 

One "tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 

One-half tea-spoonful of nutmeg. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Indian meal. 

Warm the milk, and add the molasses, stirring well 
together ; then beat the eggs vigorously, and stir them 
thoroughly into the liquid. Chop the suet fine, and 
add it and the rest of the ingredients together^ with suffi- 
cient meal to make a rather thick baiter; boil for three 
hours, and serve with wine sauce. 

CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING. 

One pint of seeded raisins. 

One-half pint of currants. 

One-quarter pint of citron, cut small. 

One pint of apples (peeled and chopped). 

One pint of flour. 

One-half a nutmeg (grated). 

One-half pint of sugar. 

One pint of chopped suet. 

One pint of sweet milk. • 

One and a-quarter pint of bread-crumbs. 

Four eggs. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Place the dry ingredients together ; then add the eggs, 
well beaten, and the rest of the recipe. When mixed, the 
batter should be quite thick ; if not satisfactory in this 
respect, add more flour. Boil for four hours, ajid serve 
with brandy or wine sauce. 

SIMPLE CURRANT PUDDING. 

One pint of milk. 

One-half pint of currants (dried). 



459 



PUDDINGS. 

Three table-spoonfuls of flour. 
One-quarter cupful of butter. 
Four eggs (yolks). 



Mix the flour with a little of the milk until perfectly 
smooth, add the rest of the milk, and if the paste seems 
at all lumpy, strain it through a. sieve; then place the 
liquid on the fire in a double boiler, and let it simmer 
until rather thick, stirring often. Add the butter, remove 
from the tire, and when cooled, stir in the beaten yolks 
of the eggs and the dried currants. Put the pudding in 
a bag, and boil two hours. Serve with wine sauce. 

WEBSTER PUDDING. 

One-half cupful of molasses. 
One-half cupful of sweet milk. 
One-quarter cupful of melted butter. 
One-quarter cupful of wine or brandy. 
One half pound of raisins or currants. 
One-half tea-spoonful of soda. 
One-half tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 
One-half tea-spoonful of cloves. 
One-quarter tea-spoonful of nutmeg. 
One-quarter tea-spoonful of salt. 
Flour to thicken. 

Warm the milk, dissolve the soda in it, and add the 
molasses. Mix the dry ingredients together, add them to 
the milk and molasses, and thicken with flour until a 
rather stiff batter is formed. If wine is not convenient 
or desirable, the juice of two lemons may be used. Pour 
the pudding into a well floured bag, boil three hours, and 
serve wdth the following 



460 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

WINE SAUCE. 

One cupful of sugar. 

One-half cupful of blotter. 

One egg. 

One-half pint of boiling water. 

One-eighth pint of wine or lemon-juice. 

Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, add the egg, well 
beaten, and stir in, a spoonful at a tune, the boiling water. 
Set the bowl containing the sauce in a sauce-panful of 
boiling water, and let it stand on the fire for five minutes; 
then remove, add the wine and a dusting of nutmeg or 
cinnamon, and serve. 

BOILED BREAD PUDDING. 

Two cupfuls of bread-crumbs. • 

One cupful of molasses. 
One cupful of raisins. 
One cupful of milk. 
Two e^gs, • 

W Butter or suet the size of an egg. 

One tea-spoonful of soda. 
One tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 
One tea-spoonful of cloves. 
One tea-spoonful of allspice. 
One-half tea-spoonful of nutmeg. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

Soak the bread-crumbs in the milk for fifteen minutes ; 
then mash them fine, add the molasses, warmed, and the 
soda, dissolved in a table-spoonful of cold water. Next 
put in the spice, salt, seeded raisins, butter (if suet is 
used, chop it very fine before adding it), and lastly the 
beaten eggs. Boil in a bag or a mould for two hours, 
and serve with hard sauce. 



FROZEN DISHES. 

"A dainty dish to set before a king." 

' Mother Goose. 

During the summer months desserts should be as 
hght and coolhig as possible, and nothing is more whole- 
some and thoroughly satisfactory for the purpose than 
the many frozen dainties, such as ice-creams, ices, frozen 
fruits, etc. After the housewife has accustomed herself 
to the preparation of ice-creams and ices, the work will 
seem quite as simple as that involved in the productions 
of any other dessert ; besides, the cost is not so great as 
is generally supposed, and the packing and freezing are 
by no means the intricate processes many cooks think 
them. 

The simplest kind of ice-cream is made of cream, sugar 
and flavoring. Almost any kind of fruit may be made 
very sweet and frozen with water, or the juice of tlie fruit 
may be combined with water and sugar and then frozen. 
The more acid the fruit, the smaller the quantity of it 
required, as will be observed by a comparison of lemon 
and orange sherbet, the juice of ten oranges being used 
to produce the same quantity of sherbet that five lemons 
will make. 

461 



462 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

TO FREEZE ICE-CREAMS, ICES, ETC. 

Break the ice into pieces the size of a quart bowl, 
place these in a canvas bag, and pound the ice with a 
wooden mallet until it is reduced to pieces the size of a 
bird's egg — that is, until it is practically crushed. After 
adjusting the can containing the liquid in the freezer, 
pack around the can a layer of ice five inches deep; 
sprinkle this layer freely with rock salt, and continue to 
arrange alternate layers of ice and salt until the freezer 
is full, pounding the packing with a stick of wood after 
each addition of salt, and turning the crank of the freezer 
a few times to settle the ice. Do not draw off the water 
that forms in the tub, as it makes a perfectly cold envel- 
ope for the can. To pack a gallon freezer will require 
ten quarts of ice and three pints of rock salt. By using 
more salt, the work may be more quickly done, but the 
cream will not be so smooth. Turn the crank slowly at 
first, increasing its speed as the cream hardens. When 
finished, carefully wipe the bits of ice and salt from the 
cover of the can, and remove the cover without taking 
out the can. Remove the beater, scrape the cream from 
it, and work a large spoon up and down in the can until 
the space formed by withdrawing the beater is filled and 
the cream is light. Replace the cover, putting a cork in 
the hole in which the trunk of the beater worked ; and 
set the freezer aside for awhile in a cold place, covering 
the can with ice and throwing a piece of carpet or a 
blanket over the whole. At serving time take the can 
from the tub and place it for a few seconds in a pan of 
tepid water ; the cream may then be easily slipped out 
upon a dish, or it may be taken out in smooth, 



FROZEN DISHES. 463 

egg-shaped portions by means of a large cooking-spoon 
that has been dipped for an instant in hot water. 

If the cream is to be moulded, it should be removed 
from the freezer when the beater is taken out. After 
being placed in the mould, it should be worked up and 
down with a spoon, so that every part of the mould shall 
be filled. Lay a sheet of white paper upon the cream 
before putting on the cover, and bury the mould in fresh 
ice and salt. If the mould is to stand in the ice and salt 
for many hours, cut a strip of paper or cloth to fit 
around the cover where it joins the mould, spread this 
with soft butter or tallow, and fasten it w^here the cover 
and mould join ; this strip will keep out the salt water, 
and it should be removed and the mould carefully wiped 
before the cover is taken off. 

There are many good freezers, the best of which, per- 
haps, is the variety that works with a crank and has a 
double, revolving dasher making a triple motion. If 
there is no freezer at hand, an impromptu one may be 
made by using a tin-pail for the can and a bucket or 
cask for the tub; stir the cream occasionally with a 
wooden spoon or flat stick, replacing the lid of the pail 
after each stirring, and giving the pail a rotary motion in 
the ice. 

PHILADELPHIA ICE-CREAM. 

Genuine Philadelphia ice-cream is made simply of 
cream, flavoring and sugar, neither arrowroot, gelatine 
nor eggs being used in its composition. The cream is 
first scalded and the sugar dissolved in it while it is hot. 
When raw cream is frozen the flavoring is not so pro- 
nounced, and the cream has a frozen, snowy taste and is 



464 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

not perfectly smooth and velvety. The cream may be 
either rich or thin, but milk of poor quality will not 
answer. If the cream is exceedingly rich, it may be 
difficult to freeze, and may contain grains of butter. 

VANILLA ICE-CREAM. 

To make enough for six persons, allow 

One quart of cream. 

One-half pint of sugar. 

Two table-spoonfuls of vanilla. 

Put the sugar and one-half the cream in a double 
boiler, and boil for ten minutes, stirring constantly. Re- 
move the liquid from the lire, and set it away to cool. 
When cold, add the remaining cream and the vanilla, 
stir well, and freeze. The ice-cream should stand at 
least two hours after freezing before it is served. 

LEMON ICE-CREAM. 

The following will serve six persons : 

One quart of cream. 

Two-thirds of a pint of sugar. 

Three lemons (rind of all and juice of two). 

One orange (juice). 

Mix the juice of the orange and the juice and rind of 
the lemons with the sugar, and set the mixture in a cold 
place for an hour. Scald the cream in a double boiler, 
and set it aside to cool. When the cream is cold, partly 
freeze it, then add the mixture of juice and sugar (the 
sugar should by this time be quite dissolved), and finish 
the freezing by turning the crank rapidly for five minutes. 



CORNS AND BUNIONS. - 465 

nor will a shoe made with a Spanish arch conform itself 
to a foot that is naturally low or flat through the instep. 
It would therefore be folly to assert that every one should 
wear the common sense shoe ; for more than one woman 
whose foot is not adapted to the style has tried the 
experiment only to go about in misery instead of com- 
fort. A common sense shoe, like all others must fit 
tightly through the instep and be neither too loose nor 
too tight in this or any other part of it. The most scien- 
tific Crispin of the metropolis, whose work cannot be 
imitated or excelled says : " If a foot is not tightly held at 
the instep by its shoe, the result will be too much friction 
over the toes, and then corns and tenderness and temper 
dance attendance on the badly fitted boot." Of course, 
this " artist " allows the toes of his customers as much 
room as he denies their insteps ; and it would seem there- 
fore that the true principle of a comfortable, well fitting 
shoe is to have it long enough and wide enough, but as 
tight as possible from vamp to ankle ; and the theory 
holds good regarding the foot gear of the' sterner sex as 
well as that of the gentler. The frown of corns is as 
apparent on a manly brow as the tight-shoe wrinkle is 
above the dainty feminine nose, and both may be avoided 
with no sacrifice of fancied pedal beauty. 

CORNS AND BUNIONS. 

That the first named affliction is constitutional in many 
cases is an opinion strengthened by the remark of a 
noted chiropodist who said : *' Some people would have 
corns if they were to go barefooted all their lives." Pos- 
sibly the statement may be a little extreme ; but there are 
individuals who, when they were little children, wearing 
30 



466 BEAUTY. 

easy shoes with " spring heels," cried with the pain 
resulting from corns that came no one knew how. They 
simply appeared and no change of shoe or method of 
treatment would remove the trouble. The writer has in 
mind a boy of three or four and a girl of ten years, both 
of whom from their infancy almost, have suffered greatly 
from this trouble, though their shoes could in no apparent 
way have caused it. 

The diversity of opinion as to the cause of corns is 
wide, and in view of the many contradictory examples 
offered to prove that each presents the true foundation for 
this trouble, the wiser course for the writer to pursue will 
be to suggest possibilities both in the way of cause and 
cure. He who claims that corns come from shoes which 
are too loose has some grounds for his argument since 
the friction of a shoe that is too large may cause the 
trouble. Certain it is he will have more advocates of his 
theory among womankind than the man who affirms that 
corns result from shoes that are too tight, and in a way 
he is entitled to the majority; for if a shoe is very tight 
there is no chance for friction, and the latter is generally 
conceded to be the chief foundation for corns. Besides, 
who ever knew a woman who wore her shoes too tight ! 
And, when Crispins disagree and each brings forward the 
proof of his theory, who shall decide the cause ? Let him 
who can ; and in the mean time let the sufferers look 
about them for a good Samaritan who shall bring them 
relief. In the advice as to the proper shape of a shoe 
is included our theory of the prevention and possible 
cure of corns. The tight shoe, which really does pro- 
mote soft corns, and the very loose one which creates the 
friction likely to produce the hard variety, are both depre- 



PROFESSIONAL REMEDIES. 467 

cated ; and the shape that fits the foot after the manner 
described as best, is advised as lessening the tendency to 
corns and increasing the probabilities of curing them. 
In addition to the advice a few remedies of more or less 
merit and reliability are offered. 

If the sufferers from corns reside where they can 
secure the services of a reliable chiropodist, we recom- 
mend them to seek him at once, for two reasons : First, 
if he is at all skillful he will immediately relieve the diffi- 
culty, temporarily, and the patient may go forth with a 
firm and comfortable step instead of the halting, careful 
one with which she arrived. Besides, she will have 
gained an insight into the methods employed which will 
enable her to '* treat '^ her corns herself and thus secure 
partial immunity from their tortures even though she be 
remotely situated. The procedure is painless and is 
what may be called bloodless surgery. A liquid is 
brushed over the corn which deadens it for the time 
being, and then with sharp instruments of shapes adapted 
to the requirements of the difficulty, each corn is skillfully 
pared and softened ; then it is " dressed " with a shield 
cut from chamois, buckskin or felt, and fastened on with 
strips of adhesive plaster, after which a medicated un- 
guent is applied. The shield is shaped to the space it is 
to overlay and has a hole at the center so that the corn 
itself will not be covered ; and its main object is to keep 
the pressure of the shoe from the corn, thus giving the 
latter an opportunity of healing. When the unguent has 
been applied then a piece of adhesive plaster is placed 
over the hole in the shield to prevent the unguent from 
rubbing off. The relief afforded by this " treatment " is 
really very great, though of course when the shields and 



468 BE A UTY. 

plasters are removed, and the shoe has once more irri- 
tated the toes, the corns will become troublesome again. 
But regularly treated in this way they frequently disap- 
pear altogether. There are also corn and bunion plasters 
which may be obtained at drug stores, fashioned after the 
manner of the shields described but made of felt, which 
may be used in the same manner as the shields. Prop- 
erly applied they remove pressure from corns and render 
their pangs less frequent and more endurable ; but some 
judgment in trimming and shaping them for the places 
they are to occupy will be necessar}^, otherwise they may 
increase the tortures going on within the shoe. 

It is said that any hard corn may be cured by the fol- 
lowing method : With a knife that is not too sharp, pare 
the corn as thin as possible, beijig careful not to cause it to 
bleed. Then touch it lightly with a nitrate of silver in 
stick. This, in two or three days' time, will form a 
callous crust over the surface, which remove with the 
knife and again apply the silver nitrate. Follow this pro- 
cedure for a fortnight, protecting the corn from pressure, 
and a cure will most likely result. 

A strong tincture of iodine brushed on corns will some- 
times cure them, and another remedy is to rub them twice 
daily with pumice-stone. Acetic acid is another remedy 
which must be applied very carefully, so that none of the 
flesh surrounding the corn will be moistened by it. Rub 
it on the corn with a tooth-pick or a sharpened match. 

In cutting corns the operator should be careful to fol- 
low the conformation of each. That is, as a corn is 
thickest at the center, it should not be pared straight 
across, but deeper at the center, or in a sort of concave 
or funnel shape. After simply paring a corn, its irritated 



SOFT CORNS. 469 

or inflamed condition may be sootiied by soaking the foot 
in warm water in which there is a little tincture of arnica, 
bi-carbonate of soda, or a few drops of carbolic acid ; or, 
the pared surface may be anointed v/ith carbolic salve, 
and the toe wrapped in tissue paper — a method which is 
often productive of great relief. 

There are numerous caustic and acid preparations sold 
for the removal of corns, but they as often irritate the 
trouble as relieve it, and rarely effect a cure. The latter 
is difficult to obtain, since corns are excrescences of the 
fungus tribe, whose roots are rarely reached or destroyed. 

A plaster said to relieve hard corns that are very pain- 
ful, is made as follows : 

Resin plaster, . . . . i ounce. 
Muriate of ammonia, .... 2 drachms. 
Powdered opium, i drachm. 

Melt the resin, and stir in the other ingredients. Spread 
on a piece of kid or chamois and apply. 

Soft corns, or " sweat " corns as they are frequently 
called, are more generally seen on a warm, moist foot 
than on a cool, dr}^ one, and are usually located on the 
inside of a toe — that is, " between the toes." To cure or 
relieve them, the cause must first be removed, as far as 
possible. Bathe the feet in drying, cooling lotions, and 
liberally sprinkle between the toes any fine, plain or car- 
bolated powder. Any of the washes suggested for ex- 
cessive perspiration or a moist skin will answer the 
purpose. A good wash is made of a. pint of water, to 
which are added a table-spoonful of salt, a pinch of alum, 
and a few drops of arnica ; and a powder that is excellent 
consists of Fuller's earth, in which is mixed a little tannin 



4;0 BEAUTY. 

and a small portion of bismuth. As soon as the little 
irritation or blister, which is the first symptom of a com- 
ing soft corn, appears, paint the spot with tincture of 
iodine, and put a tiny bit of cotton wool or lint over it or 
between the toes, changing it often. Glycerine and car- 
bolic acid — half as much acid as glycerine — may be very 
carefully painted on hard corns ; and a much weaker 
solution used for soft ones, with soothing and healing re- 
sults. 

A piece of lint dipped in powder, and placed between 
the toes, will often relieve soft corns ; and it is also an 
excellent plan to wind the tips of the toes, between which 
there are corns, with soft, woolen yarn, to keep them 
apart, and thus avoid pressure ; or keep them separated 
by bits of felt or chamois fastened on above the corns 
with adhesive plaster. The plan of relieving pressure is 
the method followed by chiropodists, who first pare soft 
corns, the same as the other variety, and then dress them 
with the shields and unguents. In this way the cause is 
partly removed, and the inflammation and tenderness 
overcome. Anything which will slightly separate the 
toes, and thus prevent pressure, will relieve soft corns. 

A bunion is a species of enlarged corn, though it ap- 
pears over the bony prominences of the foot — generally 
on the large toe joint. It is occasioned by excessive 
pressure, which may result from a double cause — a shoe 
that is too tight and too short, and a distortion of the 
great toe, which has resulted from previously wearing a 
shoe having the defects mentioned. The pressure of the 
shoe is increased by that arising from the distortion, and 
together they produce that most painful trouble — a bun- 
ion. If greatly inflamed or very tender, apply hot poul- 



A CURE FOR BUNIONS. 47 1 

tices, or paint the joint with iodine ; or apply an ointment 
made of 

Iodine, 12 grains. 

Spermaceti ointment, .... J ounce. 

When the inflammation is reduced, or if none exists, try 
the " sandal cure," recommended by an English authority, 
who describes it as follows : " Procure a firm sole of cork, 
and make little notches at the inside and top. Place the 
foot on this with a small pad of wool between the large 
and next toe, and strap the foot to this sole firmly, pass- 
ing the ribbon over the pad, and so that it is held in posi- 
tion by the notches. Cover the joint with plaster, well 
and lightly strapped on, and remove only as required. 
Increase the size of the pad daily, until the large toe is 
nearly straight, and by wearing this at night and part of 
the day the most obstinate joint may be put into place. 
One of the square-toed felt house slippers will quite con- 
ceal this arrangement. Have your boots made to meas- 
ure by a good bootmaker, who will give you a well-shaped 
toe, but one side of the boot straight to prevent the large 
toe being turned in. He will also allow you a little room 
for the joint, and thus prevent its being noticeable. If 
you wear short or pointed shoes, which are not made to 
your feet, you will certainly make the outgrowing joint 
more perceptible ; and, in buying boots, be careful that 
the vamp seam crosses the foot well back of the large toe 
joint. A shoe that is very large, will cause a bunion as 
soon as a tight one if its shape is not adapted to the 
foot. Bunion plasters may be applied to a bunion to 
protect it from pressure and friction, and will afford 
great relief. 



472 BEAUTY. 

INGROWING NAILS. 

When this affliction is genuine in its nature, it may 
prove troublesome to cure, as well as painful. Trim the 
nails lightly at the ailing corner, but fully at the opposite 
corner ; but if both corners are afflicted, clip them lightly, 
and then scrape the center of the nail very thin from tip 
to root. If adopted in time this method seldom fails to 
effect a cure ; but if it does not, the ailing nail should be 
treated by an able chiropodist. 

The English authority just quoted, says of ingrowing 
nails : 

" The so-called 'ingrowing ' toe-nail is usually nothing 
of the kind, and is due to a too tight or pointed boot, 
which presses the flesh over the nail, and makes the 
latter appear as if growing into the flesh, which seems 
hard and horny. 

" To cure this, first remove the pressure, and put lint 
between the toes. Bathe the affected toe in fresh lemon- 
juice, or rub a slice of cut lemon over it frequently, to 
detach the flesh from the nail, and if this flesh is 
very hard, endeavor to pare a little away without touch- 
ing the sensitive parts. After bathing and paring, 
take three strips of common sticking plaster and fix 
round the top of the toe, carefully pulling back the 
flesh from the nail, and keeping it back with the 
plaster. 

" This treatment persevered with for ten days or a fort- 
night will gradually release the nail, which should not be 
cut or touched in any way, save with the lotion and 
plaster. Where the toes betray a tendency to press one 
against the other and take strange shapes, you may at 



CHILBLAINS. 473 

once check this by wearing a strip of plaster round each 
toe for a short time." 

An American authority adds that if the toes of children 
show a tendency to overlap, they should be massaged in 
their natural directions each day, in order to correct the 
perverted growth, and prevent nail troubles. 

CHILBLAINS. 

These unpleasant reminders of contact with the cold 
are most usually located upon the feet, although occasion- 
ally the hands are similarly afflicted. Those who suffer 
from chilblains realize to the fullest extent the burning, 
stinging sensation that is kept up for months whenever 
the frosted members become warm or heated ; and on the 
domestic list of remedies are found kerosene oil, the 
water in which potatoes have been boiled, strong brine, 
bran water and muriate of ammonia, and oil of turpen- 
tine ; and occasionally each performs a wonderful cure. 

A lotion said, however, to be far more efficacious than 
any of those just named, is made of 

White Castile soap, . . . . i drachm. 

A mild solution of ammonia, . . 2 drachms. 

Tincture of cantharides, ... 2 ounces. 

The parts must be kept moist with this lotion until a cure 
is effected. 

A less troublesome remedy, and one very highly recom- 
mended, is to paint the frosted portions night and morn- 
ing with equal parts of tincture of iodine and a solution 
of ammonia. 

Whether the skin is broken or not, frequent plungings 
in hot water will relieve chilblains ; or, they may be 



474 ^-^^ ^'^^' 

rubbed with iodine ointment, or painted with the follow- 
ing solution : 

Nitrate of silver 30 grains. 

Water, i ounce. 

A good liniment to apply when the trouble first appears, 
is made of 

Tincture of cantharides, . . . . i part. 

Soap liniment, i part. 

Spirits of camphor, ..... i part. 

Camphorated oil is a good remedy to rub on the frosted 
extremities of young children, or upon very tender chil- 
blains. A lotion for ordinary use in cases of chilblains, 
is made of 

Spirits of turpentine, .... 3 drachms. 
Camphorated oil, 9 drachms. 

Or, a stronger lotion may be made of the same ingredi- 
ents, by using four drachms of the former and eight of 
the latter. 

An English remedy consists of 

Spirits of rosemary, 5 parts. 

Spirits of turpentine, i part. 

Another to use every two hours, immediately upon /^he 
appearance of the first indications, is composed of 

One egg (well beaten). 

Vinegar, \ pint. 

Turpentine, i ounce. 

Spirits of wine, \ ounce. 

Spirits of camphor, i ounce. 



PEDAL HYGIENICS. 475 

Mix thoroughly and keep closely bottled. Undoubtedly 
the best cure for chilblains is prevention ; and a proper 
protection of the extremities by woolen or silk clothing — 
especially woolen — together with plenty of exercise to 
keep the blood in circulation, will obviate the necessity of 
calling into use any of the remedies we have suggested. 

PEDAL HYGIENICS. 

To the abuse of the feet by the manner in which 
they are shod must be added that of neglect. 
Cramped all day and part of the night in tight shoes and 
closely fitting hose, the feet are deprived of the benefits 
of ventilation and are also compelled to absorb much of 
their own excretion. This condition gives rise to many 
troubles both disagreeable and painful ; and it is there- 
fore emphatically urged that as far as possible the same 
care be bestowed upon the feet that is given to other 
portions of the person. 

The feet should be washed night and morning as regu- 
larly as the hands ; and by these ablutions is not meant 
the weekly soaking in hot water which so many deem the 
only attention necessary to keep their feet clean. At 
least twice a week on retiring, the feet should be soaked 
in hot water for ten or fifteen minutes and then thor- 
oughly scrubbed with soap and a coarse wash rag or a 
stiff flesh brush, and the nails cleaned and brushed. 
Rough or calloused spots should be smoothed with a 
piece of toilet pumice-stone ; and once weekly the nails 
should be cut, straight across each toe and not allowed 
to project beyond its tip, being careful not to cut them 
down at the sides too close to the quick. If there are 
thickened accumulations along the sides of the soles use 



4/6 BEAUTY, 

a piece of metal or anything with a thin but dull edge, to 
scrajDe away this deadened skin. If the feet are naturally 
dr}^, thoroughly rub into the soles some fine cream or oil 
and even sleep in stockings in order that the oil may be 
fully absorbed. But if the feet are usually moist, after 
washing them as described, rinse them in water in which 
there is a little alum, or vinegar, or ammonia or any 
astringent that is convenient, and then dust them with 
either of the powders previously mentioned in this 
chapter, especially between the toes. With a semi- 
weekly foot-bath of this kind, the other daily baths need 
be only of the kind given the hands, in tepid or cool 
water, with a little soap always applied to the soles. 
If feet become disagreeably noticeable from perspiration 
or other unfortunate causes, bathe them in hot water and 
ammonia and then douche them with cold water. Or, 
put twenty or thirty drops of carbolic acid in their bath- 
ing and rinsing waters and use carbolic soap ; also use 
carbolated talc or powder after drying them. This powder 
may also be sprinkled in the shoes before putting them 
on, with good results. 

The offensive odor arising from the feet of some indi- 
viduals is not the result of uncleanliness but comes from 
an actual disease which manifests its presence in this way 
only. In such unfortunate cases, anoint the soles of the 
feet for a few days with belladonna ointment, using it 
with caution and changing the boots and stockings which 
should be woolen, daily. 

Another plan is to wear shoes sufficiently large to per- 
mit the use of thin insoles of felt. Of these insoles 
there should be several pairs and they should be steeped 
several times during the week in a solution composed of 



REMEDIES FOR PERSPIRING FEET. 



All 



twenty grains of permanganate of potash to an ounce of 
water, and then dried and inserted. Wash the feet 
morning and evening in cool water containing half an 
ounce of alum, and when they are thoroughly dry, 
anoint them with the following mixture : 

Oxide of zinc ointment, . . . . i ounce. 

Crystallized carbolic acid, .... 5 grains. 

When the stockings are washed, wring them out of a 
solution of 

Salicylic acid, \ ounce. 

Water, ....... i| pints. 

Half an ounce of borax added to a pint and a-half of 
water also makes a good rinsing solution. Sometimes 
internal treatment is necessary in overcoming the 
trouble. 

Boracic acid in the form of a powder may be dusted on 
the feet with quite satisfactory results in removing a dis- 
agreeable odor. If the feet perspire very freely bathe 
them every morning in salt and water to harden them, 
and always wear woolen stockings — thin merino in 
the summer and heavier ones in the winter, as cotton, 
silk or lisle thread hosiery will increase the difficulty. 
If the feet are tender bathe them daily in tepid water 
containing a little alum or tannin or a weak decoction of 
white oak bark or tincture of arnica and water ; and if 
much exercise is taken wear soft woolen or merino 
hosiery, which will prevent the formation of blisters or 
tender spots. It is also well to sprinkle the stockings on 
the inside along the sole with powdered starch or carbo- 
lated talc. Very sensitive or tender feet should never be 



478 BE A UTY. 

bathed without being afterward rinsed in or rubbed with 
any of the astringent or hardening washes suggested in 
(•his chapter, or in the one including remedies for exces- 
sive perspiration. As in the latter trouble, woolen or 
merino hose are best adapted to tender feet since they 
are much softer than either cotton, silk or lisle thread. 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

HOW TO REDUCE OR ACQUIRE FLESH. 

It has been proven that in some instances obesity is a 
disease which requires not only a special diet but medici- 
nal treatment. But more often it is the result of a con- 
stitutional tendency to embojipoiiit^ or of too great an 
indulgence in rich food and drinks, too much sleep and 
too little exercise. Where it is an actual disease a phy- 
sician should be consulted ; if it is constitutional and not 
inconveniencing, " let well enough alone ; " but if it 
interferes with the comfort of the individual independent 
of her health, let her follow the suggestions given those 
whose adipose tissue is the result of self-indulgence and 
a source of annoyance and mortification to them. 

It is said that Falstaff sighed in vain for his too, too 
solid flesh to melt, and many another mortal has done the 
same ; but as a rule the corpulent individual regards one 
means of causing his flesh to decrease — exercise — with a 
repugnance equal in strength to the protests he offers 
upon any attempt to limit the quantity of his food. With- 
out a proper amount of exercise and some restraint in the 
matter of diet, the sufferer from obesity need expect no 
diminution of his or her sufferings. Drastic drugs, 
labeled as anti-fats will simply reduce the flesh of an 
individual temporarily and so weaken the system and 
lower the vitality as to often render him or her an in- 
valid ; and not infrequently is this invalidism attended 

479 



48o BEA UTY. 

with fatal results. A home hygienic treatment of one's 
own case, if faithfully and patiently followed, should 
bring relief with no lessening of the strength \ and when 
it does not, then it may be inferred that the difficulty is 
constitutional or is a regularly developed disease and 
that the individual would increase in avoirdupois even 
though he fasted. 

Perhaps no better suggestions can be offered for the 
treatment of obesity than those contained in an article 
on the subject which recently appeared in one of the 
daily papers of the metropolis. Although it is descrip- 
tive of a system for reducing flesh, its principles are 
sound and include all of those generally applied in over- 
coming superabundant flesh. It says : 

*' A German physician of note has invented a system 
which reduces the flesh to any given weight, and that 
with a minimum of exercise and little or no change in the 
person's method of living. It is named after the inventor 
and is known as the Schweninger system. By it Bis- 
marck's weight was reduced nearly one hundred pounds 
and his life saved. The ex-Chancellor was so pleased 
with the treatment that he made the doctor a professor in 
the University of Berlin, despite great opposition from 
the faculty." 

The American practitioner of the system who was inter- 
viewed said : 

" It is a fact that the rapid accumulation of fat is as 
much a disease as any ailment to which the human sys- 
tem is subject. To explain : We have recently heard 
from Chicago of a young man who has lately been taking 
on flesh at an alarming rate, although he has not eaten a 
single thing. How do those who favor the starvation 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND GELATINE JELLIES. 

"Custards for supper and an endless host of such lady-like lux- 
uries." 

Shelley. 

BOILED OR SOFT CUSTARD. 

One pint of milk. 

Three eggs (yolks). 

Three table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

One-quarter of a tea-spoonful of salt. 

One tea-spoonful of vanilla. 

A boiled custard is much smoother when made with 
only the yolks of the eggs. If a quart of custard is 
desired, five large eggs will be sufficient. Place all but 
half a cupful of the milk on the fire in a double 
boiler. Beat the yolks of the eggs thoroughly, and add 
to them the half cupful of milk reserved. When the 
milk on the fire boils, turn into it the egg mixture, add- 
ing a little at a time, and stirring constantly. A boiled 
custard requires careful watching to prevent it breaking. 
The cook may readily discover when the milk is thick by 
the manner in which the spoon goes through it. The 
moment the custard has thickened remove it from the 
fire. At no time does a custard require more than two 
minute's boiling after the ego^s are added, and sometimes 
31 481 



482 riJE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

it will thicken in one minute, especially if the eggs are 
particularly nice and fresh. On taking the custard from 
the fire add the salt and seasoning, and set it away to 
cool. 

Many cooks direct the mixing of the yolks with the 
sugar only and adding them to the boiling milk in this 
way; but the writer has never found this a success, as 
the yolks grain and the custard does not become smooth. 
When adding eggs to any boiling liquid, they should 
always be thinned with water or milk. 

FLOATING ISLAND. 

This is made with the ingredients mentioned in the 
preceding recipe. While the milk in the boiler is heat- 
ing, have ready the whites of the eggs stiffly, beaten, and 
place them by spoonfuls on the boiling milk, placing 
no more than can easily float. Cook two minutes, turn 
each spoonful of o^gg^ and cook the other side two 
minutes also ; then lift the eggs from the milk upon a 
skimmer, and place them in a wide, shallow dish. Put 
more spoonfuls of the raw ^gg in the milk, and repeat the 
same process until all the egg has been cooked. These 
pieces are the "islands." When all are cooked, send the 
milk through a strainer, measure it, add sufficient more to 
make one pint, and return it to the boiler to heat. When 
scalding, make a soft custard with the yolks of the eggs, as 
in the preceding recipe. Pour the custard under the 
eggs, place the whole in the ice-chest, and serve as cold 
as possible. 

MERINGUE CUSTARD. 

This is made the same as soft custard. When the cus- 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND GELATINE JELLIES. 483 

taid is made, set it aside in a rather small dish to cool, 
.Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, add to them two table- 
spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and stir well. Heap the 
<^gg on a plate about the size of the top of the dish in 
which the custard was placed, and stand it in the oven in 
a good heat to brown delicately. When brown loosen the 
meringue from the plate, and slide it off gently on top of 
the custard. Serve very cold with sponge-cake. 

SOFT CUSTARD WITH CORN-STARCH. 

One pint of milk. 

Two eggs (yolks). 

One-half cupful of sugar. 

One table-spoonful of corn-starch. 

One tea-spoonful of vanilla. 

One-quarter tea-spoonful of salt. 

Place two table-spoonfuls of the cold milk with the 
corn-starch, and stir well. Beat the yolks light, add the 
same quantity of milk to them, stir until smooth, and 
then place them with the dissolved corn-starch. Set the 
rest of the milk on the fire in a double boiler, and when 
it is scalding, stir in the mixture of egg and corn-starch. 
Cook three minutes, season, and set aside to cool. Cus- 
tard with corn-starch is not hard to make, as there is little 
or no danger of its breaking. 

BAKED CUSTARD. 

Four eggs. 

One quart of milk. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

Two-thirds cupful of sugar. 

One-quarter of a nutmeg, grated. 



484 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Beat the eggs, both yolks and whites, well together, 
and add to them the milk, stirring it in by degrees ; then 
put in the salt. Stir the nutmeg into the sugar, and add 
this also, beating well. Let the whole stand ten minutes 
until the sugar is dissolved ; then pour the mixture into a 
small pudding-dish, and bake. Baked custard should 
never boil, but the heat should be moderate. When a 
knife-blade inserted in the custard will come from it clear 
and not milky, the custard has baked enough. This cus- 
tard may also be cooked in cups made for the purpose. 
Set the cups in a pan of boiling water, and place the pan 
in the oven, baking the custard in this way. When done, 
lift the cups from the water, and set them away to cool. 
When the nutmeg is mixed with the sugar, it will be 
found evenly distributed through the milk, and will not 
all float on top. 

CUSTARD SoufflL 

This makes a delicious dessert, but is rather an expen- 
sive one. It is served hot and admits of no delay after it 
is cooked. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 
Two table-spoonfuls of flour. 
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar. 
One cupful of milk. 
Four eggs. 

Rub the butter into the flour. Place on the fire in a 
milk boiler or a small sauce-pan all but two table-spoon- 
fuls of the milk. Beat the yolks of the eggs light, and 
add to them the milk reserved. When the milk on the 
fire boils, add it by degrees to the flour and butter, stir- 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND GELATINE JELLIES, 485 

ring carefully. Replace the milk in the sauce-pan, cook 
it eight minutes; then add tiie yolks of the eggs and 
sugar, remove the mixture at once from the fire, and 
set it aside to cool. When cold, add the whites of the 
eggs, beaten stiff, and bake in a buttered pudding-dish for 
twenty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve at once with 

CREAM SAUCE. 

One-half cupful of butter. 
One cupful of powdered sugar. 
One-quarter cupful of cream or milk. 
Four table-spoonfuls of wine, or 
One tea-spoonful of vanilla. 

If the extract is used instead of the wine, four table- 
spoonfuls additional of cream or milk should be used. 
Rub the butter to a cream, and add the sugar, beating all 
the time. When light and creamy, gradually add the 
wine, and then the cream, a little at a time. When the 
mixture is quite smooth, set the bowl containing it in a 
basin of hot water, and stir until the whole is smooth and 
creamy, but no longer ; it will take a few minutes. This 
is a very fine sauce, and if well beaten, and not kept in 
the hot water long enough to melt the sugar, it will be 
white and foamy throughout. 

CREAMS. 

There are no more delicious desserts made than those 
in which cream is used. They are exceedingly easy to 
make, and as they may be prepared some time before din- 
ner, they have the advantage of being out of the way 
when the meal is being prepared. These dainties are 



486 THE PATTER iY COOK-BOOK. 

very cheap in the country, wliere cream is plentiful, and, 
in fact, they are not expensive in the city, since cream, 
when whipped, is more than doubled in quantity. For 
whipping cream, see page 471. 

PLAIN WHIPPED CREAM. 

Sweeten the cream to taste, and add vanilla to flavor 
rather strongly ; then whip the cream light, set it on 
the ice until cold, and serve. Whipped cream may be 
eaten in many ways. With strawberries nothing is dain- 
tier. It is sometimes served in glasses, sponge cake 
being passed with it. 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE. (PLAIN.) 

One pint of cream. 
One tea-spoonful of vanilla. 
One-half cupful of sugar. 
Sponge cake. 

Mix the cream, vanilla and sugar together, and set 
them on the ice for an hour, to chill thoroughly. Then 
whip to a stiff froth, skim the froth off into a sieve to 
drain, and whip the liquid that drains from it. All the 
cream will not whip light. Set the froth on the ice, or in 
a very cold place. At serving time line a glass dish with 
lady-fingers or sponge cake, and turn in the whipped 
cream. Loaf sponge cake is very satisfactory for this 
dish. Cut the slices not too thin, and lay them side by 
side on a platter or a flat dish. With a table-spoon dis- 
tribute the thin cream that would not whip among the 
slices, to moisten them ; then heap the whipped cream 
upon the cake, and serve. 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AAV GELATINE JELLIES. 487 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE WITH EGGS. 

One pint of cream. 

One tea-spoonful of vanilla. 

Sponge cake. 

One-half cupful of sugar. 

Two eggs (whites). 

Charlotte russe made in this way will be firm and will 
harden sufhciently after being on the ice. Place the 
sugar and vanilla with the cream, and whip as previously 
directed, having the cream very cold. Beat the whites 
of the eggs stiff, and add them to the whipped cream. 
The sponge cake should be baked in a large sheet 
on a dripping-pan Cut an oval piece from the cake 
to fit the bottom of the charlotte pan, or whatever 
the charlotte russe is to be served in, and cut even- 
sized parallelograms to fit the sides. Fill the dish with 
the cream as soon as whipped, and set it on the ice. 
Should there be only sufhcient cake to cover the sides, 
put a paper cut the proper shape in the bottom of the 
mould, and heap in the cream the same as if the bottom 
were cake. 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE WITH GELATINE. 

One-quarter box of gelatine. 
One pint of cream. 
One tea-spoonful of vanilla. 
One table-spoonful of wine. 
One-quarter cupful of cold water. 
One-quarter cupful of boiling water. 
One-half cupful of powdered sugar. 

Soak the gelatine in the cold water until it is softened. 
Whip the cream, placing the froth as it is made in a pan 



488 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

set in ice-water; and when all is whipped, sift over it the 
sugar, and add the vanilla and wine. Pour the boiling 
water upon the gelatine, and when it is dissolved, strain 
it over the whipped cream. Then stir (not beat) rap- 
idly, resting the bowl of the spoon upon the bottom of 
the pan, and turning the pan with the left hand while 
stirring with the right. Stir until the gelatine is well 
mixed with the cream, and when the charlotte is nearly 
stiff enough to drop, turn it into the mould, which should 
be in readiness nicely lined with sponge-cake,, as directed 
in the preceding recipe. 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE WITHOUT CREAM. 

This charlotte is, of course, not to be compared with 
that made with cream, but it makes an excellent substi- 
tute when cream cannot be obtained. For a three-pint 
mould allow 

One-third of a package of gelatine. 

One quart of milk. 

Four eggs. 

One cupful of sugar. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla. 

Soak the gelatine for two hours in a cupful of the cold 
milk. Beat the sugar and the yolks of the eggs together, 
and add one-half a cupful, of the milk. Set the rest of the 
milk on the fire in a double boiler, and when it is scald- 
ing, pour in the ^gg mixture and cook for five minutes ; 
then add the gelatine, and stir until it is dissolved, after 
which remove from the fire, and cool. Place the prepara- 
tion in a bowl of ice-water to chill thoroughly, and when 
it is very cold, add the whites of the eggs, unbeaten ; beat 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND GELATINE JELLIES. 489 

until the whole is thick and frothy, turn it into a cake- 
lined mould, and set away to harden. 

BAVARIAN CREAM. 

This dessert is made of whipped cream and gelatine, 
with or without eggs, fruits being frequently added to 
flavor. It is served m one large mould or in individual 
moulds. In making Bavarian cream, do not add the 
whipped cream to the ingredients with the gelatine, until 
they are quite cold and are beginning to " set " or the 
cream will dissolve. The ingredients will "set" very 
quickly, if placed on the ice. All varieties of this cream 
make delicious charlotte russe. They are sometimes 
frozen, in which case the whipped cream is not added 
until the custard (or ingredients with the gelatine) is 
partly frozen. 

PLAIN BAVARIAN CREAM. 

This is made the same as charlotte russe with gela- 
tine (see page 487), omitting the wine. 

VANILLA BAVARIAN CREAM. 

One pint of cream. 

One pint of milk. 

Four eggs (yolks). 

Two table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla. 

One-half cupful of cold water. 

One-half box of gelatine. 

Whip the cream light, skimming the froth off, and lay- 
ing it on a sieve to drain. When all is whipped, set the 
sieve in a cold place until the cream is needed for use. 



490 THE PA TTER.V COOK-BOOK. 

Place the gelatine in the water to soak, and if required in 
a hurry, set the cup containing it in a warm place ; it is 
much better, however, to let it soak for two hours in a 
cool place. It will soften in a warm place in half an 
hour, and will then be ready for use by the time the rest 
of the cream is prepared. Reserve a large half-cupful of 
the milk, and place the balance on the fire in a double 
boiler. Beat the yolks of the eggs light, and add to 
them the half cupful of cold milk. When the milk in 
the boiler is boiling, stir in the yolks, and cook two min- 
utes ; then remove from the fire, and add the gelatine 
(which should be soaked by this time), straining it into 
the milk. Also stir in the sugar, and when the prepara- 
tion is cold, beat in the vanilla, stirring until all is quite 
smooth. Then stir the whipped cream in very lightly, 
until well incorporated, place the mixture in a mould or 
moulds, and set it on the ice or in some cool place. The 
cream should not be turned out for at least four hours, as 
it requires fully that length of time for the gelatine to 
harden it sufficiently. 

CHOCOLATE BAVARIAN CREAM. 

This is made the same as the vanilla cream in the pre- 
ceding recipe, two table-spoonfuls of grated chocolate be- 
ing added, and but a tea-spoonful of vanilla being 
used. Melt the chocolate on the fire, placing it in a little 
of the cold milk, and stirring and cooking until smooth. 
Add it, strained, to the yolks of the eggs, which should be 
beaten, and half a cupful of the cold milk added, the 
same as in the vanilla cream ; then stir all into the boil- 
ing milk, and finish as directed. 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND GELATINE JELLIES. 49 T 

STRAWBERRY BAVARIAN CREAM. 

One quart of strawberries. 
One-half pint of sugar. 
One pint of cream. 
One-half box of gelatine. 
One-half cupful of cold water. 

Carefully pick the berries over, mash them well, 
squeeze them through a colander, and add the sugar to 
the juice. Soak the gelatine in the water, and when dis- 
solved, add it to the strawberry juice. Whip the cream 
light, draining it on a sieve, and set it in a cool place 
until needed. Place the juice and gelatine on the ice or 
in a cold place, stir it smooth, and when it begins to 
" set/* stir in the whipped cream carefully. Line a mould 
with some whole strawberries, fill it with the cream, and 
set it on the ice or in a cold place. Turn the cream out 
of the mould when ready to serve, and send to table with 
fresh strawberries arranged about it. 

PEACH BAVARIAN CREAM. 

Eighteen peaches. 
One-half pint of sugar. 
One and a-half pint of cream. 
One-half box of gelatine. 
One-half cupful of cold water. 

Place the gelatine in the water to soak. Peel and 
stone the peaches, cut them up fine, and set them on the 
fire in a small stew-pan. Watch them carefully, adding a 
little water, if needed; but, if possible, stew them in 
their own juices. Mash them as they cook, and when re- 
duced to a fine, smooth sauce, add the sugar, and stir 
until it is dissolved; then squeeze all through a fine 



492 THE PA TTERISr COOK-BOOK. 

colander, if there are any lumps. Now add to the peaches 
the dissolved gelatine and half a pint of the cream, stir- 
ring well, and set in a cold place. Whip the rest of the 
cream, and drain well, and as soon as the gelatine begins 
to set, add the whipped cream to it, turn the whole into a 
mould, and place it on the ice for four hours. 

APRICOT BAVARIAN CREAM. 

This is made in the same manner as the peach cream, 
using a pint can or a pint of apricots instead of the 
peaches. 

PINEAPPLE BAVARIAN CREAM. 

One pineapple. 
One-half pint of sugar. 
One pint of cream. 
One-half cupful of cold water. 
One-half box of gelatine. 

Soak the gelatine in the water. Whip the cream light, 
drain, and set it in a cool place. Grate the pineapple, 
add to it the sugar, and simmer in a porcelain-lined 
sauce-pan for fifteen minutes. Add the soaked gelatine 
to the pineapple, set the mixture in a cool place, and 
when it begins to congeal, stir very smooth, and add the 
whipped cream. Stir the cream very carefully, turn it 
into a mould, and set it on the ice for four hours. 

ORANGE BAVARIAN CREAM. 

Three oranges (juice). 
One orange (rind). 
One pint of cream. 
•One-half cupful of sugar. 



CREAMS. 493 



One-quarter cupful of cold water. 
One-quarter cupful of hot water. 
One-quarter box of gelatine. 



Soak the gelatine in the cold water for two hours in a 
cool place. Grate into a bowl the yellow rind from one 
of the oranges, and squeeze the juice from three into the 
same bowl. Whip and drain the cream, and place it in a 
cool place. When the gelatine is soaked, add to it the 
hot water, stirring well ; and when it is completely dis- 
solved, pour it into the bowl with the juice. Strain this 
mixture into a tin basin, set it on the ice or in a cool 
place, and until the gelatine commences to thicken the 
juice; then gradually add the whipped cream, stirring 
thoroughly from the bottom of the pan. Take up a 
spoonful of the mixture, and pour it back ; and if it does 
not immediately sink, the mixture is thick enough to 
mould. It may be poured into a mould lined with 
sponge cake, if desired; or an unlined mould may be 
used. 

SPANISH CREAM. 

One-half box of gelatine. 

One pint of milk. 

Three eggs (yolks and whites). 

F'ive table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

One and one-half tea-spoonful of vanilla. 

One-quarter cupful of water. 

Soak the gelatine in the water. Place all but half a 
cupful of the milk on the fire in a double-boiler. Sepa- 
rate the yolks of the eggs from the whites, beat the yolks 
light, and add to them the half-cupful of milk reserved. 
When the milk in the boiler is boiling, stir in the dis- 
solved gelatine, and cook one minute. Then add the 



494 '^^^ P^ TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

yolks and milk, and cook one minute longer, or until the 
whole is like thick cream. Beat the whites of the eggs 
stiff, and just before taking the cream from the fire, add 
them to it, stir up well, and at once remove the cream 
from the heat. When nearly cold, add the vanilla. Stir 
well, and pour the cream into a mould, which has pre- 
viously been dipped in cold water. Let it stand in a 
cold place until the next day ; or if made early in the 
morning and placed at once on the ice, it will be ready 
for a late evening dinner. Send to table with whipped 
cream, and serve with sponge cake. 

AMERICAN CREAM. 

One-half box of gelatine. 
One-half cupful of cold water. 
One cupful of sugar. 
One and one-half pint of milk. 
One lemon (juice). 

This quantity will serve eight persons. Cover the gel- 
atine with the cold water, and soak for half an hour. 
Place the milk in a double-boiler, and when hot, add the 
gelatine ; stir until dissolved, remove from the fire, strain 
and set the mixture aside to cool. When it is cold, add 
the lemon-juice and sugar, stir well, turn the cream into a 
mould, and set it in a cold place over night. Serve with 
vanilla sauce. 

CHOCOLATE WHIPS. 

One quart of milk. 

One square of Baker's chocolate (one ounce). 

Two-thirds cupful of sugar. 

Six eggs. 

One pint of cream. , 



CREAMS. 495 

One tea-spoonful of vanilla. 
One-quarter tea-spoonful of salt. 
One table-spoonful of boiling water. 

Scrape the chocolate line, and place it in a small fry- 
ing pan with two table-spoonfuls of the sugar and the 
boiling water. Heat in a double-boiler all but half a pint 
of the milk ; and when the chocolate is dissolved, add it 
to the boiling milk, stirring well. Beat the eggs and the 
rest of the sugar together, add to them the half pint of 
milk reserved, and stir the mixture into the boiling milk. 
Stir until the custard thickens, add the salt, and set away 
to cool. Season the cream with the vanilla and two 
table-spoonfuls of the sugar, and whip it to a stiff froth. 
When the custard is cold, half fill glasses with it, and 
heap the whipped cream upon it ; or it may be served in 
one large dish, with the cream heaped on top of the 
whole. The above quantity will serve eight persons. 

PEACH SPONGE. 

Two-thirds of a quart of peaches. 
One-half box of gelatine. 
,Fonr eggs (whites). 
One cupful of sugar. 
One and one-half cupful of water. 

Peel the peaches, and cut them up small, measuring 
them after thus prepared. Place the gelatine in half a 
cupful of water, and set to soak for two hours in a cool 
place; or if hurried, place it on the back of the range, 
where it will dissolve in half an hour. The dessert, how- 
ever, will not be of so fine a flavor if prejoared by the 
latter method. Boil the rest of the water and the sugar 
together for fifteen minutes. Mash the peaches fine, 



496 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

press them through a fine colander, and turn the syrup 
over them. Place the sauce-pan containing the mixture 
in another full of boiling water, and cook for five minutes, 
stirring all the time. Add the gelatine, and stir for five 
minutes more ; then place the pan in cold water, and stir 
the sponge until it begins to cool ; also add the whites 
of the eggs, well beaten, and stir until the whole begins 
to harden, at which point turn it into a mould, and set in 
a cold place. At serving time turn the sponge from the 
mould, and send to table with cream and sugar. 

STRAWBERRY SPONGE. 

One quart of strawberries. 

One-half box of gelatine. 

Four eggs (whites). 

One and one-half cupful of water. 

One cupful of sugar. 

One lemon (juice). 

This is prepared a little different from the peach 
sponge, as the berries are not cooked. Soak the gela- 
tine in half a cupful of the water. Mash the berries and 
add half the sugar to them ; when this is dissolved, press 
the berries through a sieve. Boil the rest of the sugar 
and the water together for fifteen minutes, add the gela- 
tine to this boiling syrup, remove from the fire at once, 
and add the berries. Place the pan containing the prep- 
aration in another full of cold water, or set it in a cold 
place ; and beat the mixture five minutes, until cool and 
beginning to thicken slightly. Then add the whites of 
the eggs, well whipped, and beat well until the whole has 
thickened considerably. Pour the sponge into a mould, 
and set it away to harden. Serve with cream and sugar. 



GELA TINE JELLIES. 497 

GELATINE JELLIES. 

Gelatine as now obtained is refined and clarified dur- 
ing the process of manufacture, and this renders it unnec- 
essary to use the white of eggs for clarifying, as was for- 
merly the case. Many cooks, however, prefer to further 
clarify it for jellies, producing thereby more dainty and 
inviting-looking desserts. When the egg is used it weak- 
ens the gelatine, so that a little more of the latter should 
be allowed than if the ^gg were omitted. 

The packages of all the various brands of gelatine on 
the market are supposed to weigh the same — two ounces 
without the wrappers. Pink gelatine comes in sheets 
and is sold by grocers by the ounce. It is a little more 
expensive than the plain variety. Allowing half pink 
and half plain gelatine will impart a rich pink tint to a 
jelly or a cream. Very many desserts are now made 
with gelatine, and almost invariably they should stand 
over night before being used, that they may be sure to 
harden sufficiently. 

Gelatine has some peculiarities which many house- 
keepers do not understand. If gelatine is kept any 
length of time in a warm place, a disagreeable odor and 
flavor will be developed ; while if soaked in cold water in 
a cold place, these objectionable features will not appear. 
The latter method of preparing requires more time, of 
course, but by using a little forethought this need seldom 
cause inconvenience, . 

TO CLEAR JELLY. 

Allow the whites of two eggs to every three pints of 
the liquid. Beat the whites not too stiff, add one cupful 

32 



498 THE PA TTERX COOK-BOOK. 

of the jelly 10 them, and beat for one minute. Stir this 
mixture into the rest of the jelly, and place the whole on 
the fire where it will heat slowly ; and when bubbling, set 
it back where it will keep at the boiling point for half an 
hour. Keep the pan covered, and at the end of the half 
hour, strain the jelly through a tine strainer, and then run 
it through a flannel bag that has been wiung out of hot 
water, hanging the bag up after the jelly has been poured 
into it, and allowing the liquid to filter slowly through. 
After this filtering process, the jelly will be found clear 
and bright. 

TO REINIOVE JELLY FROM THE MOULD. 

Set the mould in tepid water until it is evident that the 
sides of the jelly are yielding a little. If the mould is 
made of tin, this will require but half a minute ; but if 
made of earthenware, it will take three times as long. 
Lift the mould from the water, wipe it carefully, and, 
tipping it a little to one side, loosen the jelly very gently 
with a knife. Place a flat dish over the open part of the 
mould, and turn dish and mould over simultaneously; 
hold them in this position a moment, and then carefully 
raise the mould. 

TO SERVE GELATINE JELLY. 

The manner of serving these jellies may be rendered 
very attractive. Any kind of ripe, well-tiavored fruit may 
be embedded in the jelly, but the latter must be cooled in 
kiyers, or the fruit will not be distributed evenly through 
the mass. To efifect tiiis, put in a layer of fruit, and wet 
it with some of the liquid jelly; when this hardens, cover 
with the jelly, and after this has hardened, put in another 



GELA TINE JELLIES. 499 

layer of fruit, and proceed as before. Jellies of various 
colors may be combined in layers. To make marbled 
jelly, allow the first layer to but partially cool, and then 
put in the second, which should be of a different color, 
adding this layer by spoonfuls. Another pretty way of 
serving is to cool a pink and a light-colored jelly in thin 
sheets, pouring the liquid upon platters ; and when the 
jelly is set cut it into tiny squares. Heap the pink 
squares in the center of a large glass dish, and surround 
them with the lighter kind. The jelly may also be served 
in baskets made of oranges. To make these baskets, 
choose large, fair oranges. With a sharp knife cut on 
each side of the stem about half way through the orange, 
leaving a strip about half an inch broad for the handle. 
Cut the orange transversely on both sides, and remove 
the sections thus made. With a tea-spoon separate the 
remaining pulp from the skin, being careful not to break 
the latttr. Remove the pulp, and the baskets are com- 
pleted. These baskets may be placed in a pan of 
pounded ice and filled with the liquid jelly, or they njay 
be filled with the tiny squares of jelly at serving time. 
The baskets should be kept in a cool place to retain their 
shape, and bright ribbon will be tied about them when 
filled, to render them more attractive. Still another 
method is to cut each orange in halves, remove the pulp, 
fill one-half with jelly, and the other with Bavarian cream, 
and set the parts on the ice. At serving time put the 
halves together, and tie them with pretty ribbons. Jelly 
is sometimes formed in a mould with a cylindrical tube in 
the center ; when the jelly is turned out, fill the hollow^ 
the tube has made with whipped cream, piling it 
high. 



500 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

WINE JELLY. 

The following named quantities will make three pints. 
If the jelly is preferred light-colored, the spice and the 
pink isinglass may be omitted. 

One box of gelatine. 

One sheet of pink isinglass. 

Two lemons. 

One clove. 

Two-inch piece of stick cinnamon. 

One pint of sherry or Madeira. 

One pint of sugar. 

One and one-half pint of water. 

Two eggs (whites). 

Soak the gelatine and isinglass for two hours in half a 
pint of cold water; then place them in a stew-pan, and 
add the thin, yellow rind of one of the lemons, peeling 
the rind in strips ; also add the juice of both lemons, the 
wine, the spices, the rest of the water and the beaten 
whites of the eggs. Stir these well together, place the 
mixture on the fire, and stir for ten minutes, watching 
carefully; when the jelly bubbles, draw the pan back 
where its contents will be kept at the boiling point only. 
Cover the pan, and let it stand for thirty minutes ; then 
pour the jelly through a wire strainer, and then through a 
flannel bag. Pour it into one large mould or several 
small ones, wetting the moulds before using, and set in a 
cool place for at least six or eight hours. 

Many kinds of wine and liquor may be used in this 
way, the above recipe being proportioned for sherry, Ma- 
deira or port. A smaller proportion of brandy, mara- 
schino, noyau or punch would make sufficient flavoring, 
and a larger proportion of champagne may be used, as it 



GELATINE JELLIES. 5OI 

is not so strong. Those who think clarifying with the 
whites of eggs unnecessary, and yet wish to use spices, 
should steep them in the water for half an hour, then add 
the gelatine and wine, and strain as directed. A very 
little more water may be allowed if the eggs are not 
used. 

ORANGE JELLY. 

Two oranges (rinds). 

One pint of orange juice. 

One and one-half pint of water. 

One pint of sugar. 

Two lemons (juice). 

Two eggs (whites). 

One box of gelatine. 

Soak the gelatine for two hours in half a pint of the 
cold water. Grate the orange rind into a bowl, pour the 
juice upon it, and let both stand for two hours. Beat the 
whites, stir them into the juice, add the rest of the recipe, 
put all in a stew-pan and stir over the fire for ten min- 
utes. When the liquid bubbles, set the pan back, cover 
it, and keep the contents at the boiling point for half an 
hour. Then strain as directed for wine jelly, and mould. 

LEMON JELLY, NO. I. 

One-half pint of lemon-juice. 

One lemon (rind, grated). 

One box of gelatine. 

One pint of sugar. 

Two and one-quarter pints of water. 

Two eggs (whites). 



Make the same as orange jelly. 



502 THE FA TTBIKN COOK-BOOK. 

LEMON JELLY, NO. 2. 

One-half box of gelatine. 
One-half pint of cold water. 
One pint of boiling water. 
One cupful of sugar. 
Two lemons (juice). 

Soak the gelatine in the cold water for two hours ; and 
when dissolved, pour on it the boiling water, stir well, add 
the sugar, and when nearly cold, add the lemon-juice. 
Strain through a sieve into a mould and set away to 
harden. Taste at the last, and add more sugar if 
needed. 

FRUIT JELLIES. 

For best methods of making these jellies, see " The 
Perfect Art of Canning and Preserving," published by the 
Butterick Publishing Co., price fifteen cents. This is a 
convenient sixteen-page pamphlet by the author of the 
present work and contains in compact, readable form com- 
plete instruction regarding all the processes of canning 
and preserving ; and for this reason recipes and directions 
for this class of household work are omitted from this 
book. 



TARTS, COOKIES, GINGERBREAD, ETC. 

" The Queen of Hearts, 
She made some tarts, 
All on a Summer's day." 

** Mother Goose." 

Tarts, so called in America, differ very much from the 
dainties similarly designated in England. We have learned 
to call by that name very small shells of crust, which art 
generally filled after cooking with a preparation made 
expressly for the purpose. The tarts made by the 
" Queen " mentioned above were evidently like our Amer- 
ican pies — that is made with no upper crust, or with nar- 
row strips laid across the top and forming a kind of lat- 
tice-work. 

Tarts are made of pie-crust or of puff paste. No rem- 
nants or cuttings of either should therefore be thrown 
away as useless. Pans in which to bake the crust may be 
purchased at little cost ; and the tarts are easily made 
and form an agreeable addition to the home luncheon or 
supper table. 

TART SHELLS. 

Roll thin a quantity of plain or puff paste, and cut it 
out with a glass or biscuit cutter. With a wine-glass or a 
smaller cutter, remove the centers of two out of three of 

503 



504 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK 

these circles; and lay the rings thus made on the third, in 
this way building a little wall around the shell. Bake on 
a baking-pan in a quick oven. When these shells are used, 
no small pans are required. In using patty-pans, care- 
fully line them with the crust, and bake quickly. When 
the crusts are cold, fill them with jelly. Beat to a stiff 
froth the whites of two eggs, add two table-spoonfuls of 
sugar to the whites, and spread the latter on top of the 
jelly in the shells. Return the shells to the oven, and 
brown the egg delicately. The whites of two eggs will 
make enough meringue for one dozen tarts. The mer- 
ingue, of course, need not be used if not liked, but it adds 
much to the attractiveness of the tarts. 

APPLE TARTS. - 

Five apples. 

Three eggs. 

One lemon (juice and rind). 

One-quarter cupful of butter. 

Three-quarters cupful of sugar. 

One-half cupful of water. 

Peel and core the apples, which should be tart ; and 
cook them in the water until soft ; stewing them very 
slowly. Beat the sauce very smooth, and when partly 
cooled, add the beaten yolks of the eggs, the lemon-juice 
and grated rind and the sugar, increasing the amount of 
sugar if desired very sweet. Line the patty-pans with 
paste, fill them with the mixture, and bake five minutes in 
a very hot oven. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, add to 
them two table-spoonfuls of sugar, spread the egg on top 
of the tarts, return the latter to the oven, and brown deli- 
cately. 



COOKIES. 505 

ALMOND TARTS. 

Three eggs. 

One-half cupful of sugar. 

One-half pound of shelled almonds. 

Beat the yolks of the eggs to a cream, add the sugar, 
and beat vigorously. Pound the almonds slightly, and 
add them to the eggs and sugar. Place the mixture in 
patty-pans lined with paste, and bake eight minutes. 
Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, add two table-spoonfuls 
of sugar, distribute the egg among the tarts, spreading it 
on top, and brown nicely in the oven. 

COCOANUT TARTS. 

One cupful of sugar. 
One-half cupful of water. 
One-half of a grated cocoanut. 
Three eggs. 

Boil the water, sugar and cocoanut together for five 
minutes. Remove the mixture from the fire, and when it 
is nearly cold, add the yolks of the eggs, well beaten. 
Stir all well together, pour the preparation into patty- 
pans lined with crust, and bake eight minutes. Beat the 
whites stiff, add two table-spoonfuls of sugar, distribute 
this meringue among the tarts, and return them to the 
oven to brown lightly. 

Many other fillings may be made for tart shells, mar- 
malade, apple sauce, nicely seasoned jams, etc., being 
very satisfactory for the purpose. 

COOKIES. 

SUGAR COOKIES, NO. I. 

Eight table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

Six table-sijoonfuls of melted butter. 



506 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK, 

Four table-spoonfuls of milk. 
Two eggs. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 
Flour to thicken. 

Stir the butter into tiie sugar ; beat the eggs light, and 
add them to the butter and sugar, stirring well ; then add 
the milk. Sift the powder with a little of the flour, and 
stir this in, adding enough more flour to admit of rolling 
out the dough. Place the latter on a well floured board 
and roll it thin ; then cut out the cookies with a cutter, 
dip each one in granulated sugar as soon as cut, and bake 
in a quick oven. 

SUGAR COOKIES, NO. 2. 

Two eggs. 

One nutmeg (grated). 

Three large tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Flour to thicken. 

Two cupfuls of sugar. 

One-half cupful of butter. 

One-half cupful of lard. 

One cupful of milk. 

One tea-spoonful of salt. 

Rub the butter, lard and sugar well together, and add 
the eggs, well beaten, the salt and the nutmeg. Sift the 
powder in a little of the flour, add this and enough more 
flour to form a dough that may be rolled. Then roll the 
dough, cut it ©ut, and bake in a quick oven. 

CREAM COOKIES. 

One pint of sweet cream. 
Three eggs. 
Flour to thicken. 



COOKIES. 507 

Two cupfuls of sugar. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of soda. 

Four tea-spoonfuls of cream of tartar. 

One-half tea-spoonful of nutmcrg. 

One-half tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 

Put the ingredients together in the same order as 
directed for the sugar cookies, and bake in a quick oven. 

COOKIES WITHOUT EGGS. 

One and one-half cupfuls of butter. 

Two cupfuls of sugar. 

One cupful of milk. 

One tea-spoonful of soda. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of cream of tartar. 

One nutmeg (grated). 

Flour to thicken. 

Place the ingredients together the same as for sugar 
cookies, adding flour to roll as soft as possible ; and bake 
quickly. 

SOUR MILK COOKIES. 

One cupful of butter. 

Two cupfuls of sugar. 

Two-thirds cupful of sour milk. 

Flour to thicken. 

Two eggs. 

One lemon (rind and two tea-spoonfuls of juice). 

One tea-spoonful of soda. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of cold water. 

Rub the butter and the sugar together, and add the 
eggs, well beaten, the rind of the lemon and the required 
quantity of juice. Dissolve the soda in the cold water, 
turn it into the milk, and stir both into the mixture. 
Add flour to thicken, roll out and bake quickly. 



50<S 77iR PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

CHOCOLATE COOKIE . 

One square of Baker's chocolate (one ounce). 

Two cupfuls of sugar. 

One cupful of butter. 

Flour to thicken. 

Two eggs. 

One tea-spoonful of soda. 

One-half cupful of milk. 

Melt the chocolate and butter together, add the sugar, 
the eggs, well beaten, and the milk, in 'which the soda 
has been dissoh^ed. Add flour to roll out thin, and cut 
into small cookies. Frost the cookies with an icing of 
confectioners' sugar. 

JUMBLES. 

One pound of sugar. 

One pound of butter. 

One and one-half pound of flour. 

Four eggs. 

One table-spoonful of brandy. 

Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the 
eggs, well beaten, then the brandy and then the flour, 
sifting the latter very lightly. Roll out the dough, sifting 
pulverized sugar on the board to keep it from sticking, 
and bake quickly. These cookies will be very soft when 
rolled out. If not desired so sweet, use flour when 
rolling the dough instead of sugar. This is a delicious 
but rather expensive way to make cookies. 

mother's jumbles. 

Three eggs. 

One cupful of sugar. 

Two-thirds cupful of butter. 



GINGER-CAKES AND GINGERBREAD. 509 

Flour to thicken. 

Three table-spoonfuls of milk. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

One tea-spoonful of nutmeg (if liked). 

Cream the butter and sugar together, and add in their 
order the beaten eggs, milk, powder, nutmeg and flour. 
Caraway seed may be substituted for the nutmeg, if de- 
sired, being particularly popular with children. Sprinkle 
granulated sugar over the sheet of cake dough just 
before cutting the jumbles out, passing the rolling-pin 
lightly over all. 

GINGER-CAKES AND GINGERBREAD. 

It is yearly growing more difficult to make these old- 
fashioned but delicious cakes satisfactorily, and the 
trouble lies, not in the recipes, but in the quality of mo- 
lasses used. It is not many years since it was possible 
to purchase molasses that would impart a delightfully 
rich color and flavor to anything in which it was used. 
This difference is due to the fact that sugar was formerly 
made by a process which yielded the good, dark molasses 
as a regular product ; while at present it is boiled in vac- 
uum pans, so that the best quality of molasses is very 
scarce. The darkest molasses now comes from Porto 
Rico, but this has a disagreeable flavor to many. The 
next best is the New Orleans molasses, which is disap- 
pointingly light-colored, but of good flavor. Molasses 
may be tested by placing a small quantity of dissolved 
soda in a table-spoonful ; if the molasses is good, it will 
foam up in a dark, rich color and emit a pleasant odor; 
but if it turns of a greenish shade and has an unpleasant 
smell, it will not prove satisfactory. 



10 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 



GINGER COOKIES, NO. I. 



One cupful of sugar. 
One cupful of butter. 
One cupful of molasses. 
One-third cupful of vinegar. 
Flour to thicken. 
One tea-spoonful of salt. 
One tea-spoonful of soda. 
One table-spoonful of ginger. 
One egg. 

Rub the butter and sugar together, add the ^gg^ well 
beaten, the salt and ginger, and stir all well together 
until smooth. Dissolve the soda in the vinegar, stir the 
vinegar into the molasses, and add the latter to the mix- 
ture. Beat all well together, and put in enough flour to 
admit of rolling out properly, taking care that no more 
flour is used than is necessary to prevent the cakes 
sticking to the board. Roll quite thin, cut the cookies 
out, and bake them in a quick oven. These cookies 
are very delicious and are especially prized by chil- 
dren. 

GINGER COOKIES, NO. 2. 

Two cupfuls of molasses. 
One cupful of butter. 
One-half cupful of sugar. 
One tea-spoonful of ginger. 
One tea-spoonful of soda. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
One-half tea-cupful of cold water. 
Flour to thicken. 

Place these ingredients together the same as in the pre- 
ceding recipe, dissolving the soda in the cold water. 
Roll the dough thin, having added no more flour than 



GINGER-CAKES AND GINGERBREAD. 5 1 1 

will keep the dough from sticking to the board. Cut out 
and bake in a quick oven. 

GINGER COOKIES WITH COFFEE. 

One cupful of molasses. 
One cupful of strong coffee. 
One cupful of brown sugar. 
One-half cupful of lard. 
One-half cupful of butter. 
One table-spoonful of ginger. 
One tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 
One tea-spoonful of soda. 
Three tea-spoonfuls of cold water. 
Flour to thicken. 

Beat the butter and lard well together. Dissolve the 
soda in the water, and stir it into the molasses, which 
add to the butter and lard. Add the spice and coffee and 
sufficient flour to make a soft dough ; roll the dough 
three-quarters of an inch thick, cut the cakes out, and 
bake them fifteen minutes in a rather quick oven. 

GINGER SNAPS. 

Two cupful s of molasses. 

One-half cupful of butter. 

Flour to thicken. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of ginger. 

One tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 

One-half tea- spoonful of allspice. 

One tea-spoonful of baking-powder. 

Place the molasses and butter on the fire in a stew-pan, 
and scald them well. Set the pan aside, and when the 
molasses has cooled, add the rest of the ingredients, put- 
ting in only enough flour to make the dough roll nicely. 
Bake the snaps in a quick oven. 



5 1 2 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

GINGER-CAKES. 

One pint of molasses. 
One cupful of brown sugar. 
One cupful of hot water. 
- Ten table-spoonfuls of melted lard. 
One table-spoonful (scant) of soda. 
One and one-half table-spoonfuls of ginger. 
Flour to thicken. 

Dissolve the soda in the hot water, and add it to the 
molasses. Place the lard and sugar together, and stir 
with them the molasses and the ginger, and flour to roll 
out. Bake in a quick oven. 

GINGER DROP-CAKES. 

One cupful of molasses. 

One cupful of sugar. 

One cupful of hot water. 

One-half cupful of butter. 

Four and one-half cupfuls of flour. 

One egg. 

One table-spoonful of ginger. 

One table-spoonful of soda. 

Mix as directed in the preceding recipe ; drop the mix- 
ture by spoonfuls into a buttered baking-pan, and bake in 
a rather quick oven. 

SOFT GINGERBREAD. 

One cupful of sour milk. 
One cupful of molasses. 
One tea-spoonful of soda. 
One table-spoonful of gmger. 
One table-spoonful of vinegar. 
Five table-spoontuls of melted lard. 
Flour to thicken. 



GINGER-CAKES AND GINGERBREAD. 513 

Dissolve the soda in the vinegar, add it to the molasses, 
and stir well. Turn the molasses into the sour milk, stir 
until well mixed, and add the rest of the ingredients. 
The success of this bread depends on the amount of flour 
used being exactly right. The batter should be so thin, 
that the track left by the spoon in stirring disappears at 
once. When well made the cake is delicious. 

SUGAR GINGERBREAD. 

Two cupfuls of sugar. 

One cupful of milk. 

Three cupfuls of flour. 

Two-thirds cupful of butter. 

Two eggs. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

One table-spoonful of ginger. 

Beat the butter to a cream, and gradually beat the 
sugar into it ; then add the ginger, the eggs, well beaten, 
the milk, and finally the flour mixed with the baking- 
powder. This is not baked as a single loaf, but in four 
buttered shallow cake-pans. Bake for fifteen minutes in 
a quick oven, and on taking the cake from the oven, 
sprinkle it with sugar, cut it into broad strips, and spread 
these on a dish to cool. The cake will, of course, be very 
thin. 

SPICED GINGERBREAD. 

One cupful of molasses. 
One cupful of boiling water. 
One large table-spoonful of butter. 
One pint of sifted flour. 
One tea-spoonful of cloves. 
One tea-spoonful of ginger. 
One tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 
One tea-spoonful of soda. 



SH ^^^' PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Partly melt the butter, and put it in the molasses. 
Dissolve the soda in the water, and add the latter to the 
molasses. Then add the rest of the ingredients, and bake 
for three-quarters of an hour in a well-buttered tin. 



CAKE. 

" With weights and measures just and true. 
Oven of even heat, 
Well-buttered tins and quiet nerves, 
Success will be complete." 

Anon. 

Cake and pastry are not included among the neces- 
saries of life, and therefore, if good materials cannot be 
afforded for their making, it is much wiser not to provide 
them for the family at all. In no department of cooking 
does the average housewife need less instruction than in 
cake-making, for it is the one branch of cookery that 
nearly every American girl learns. There are, however, 
a few principles which, if acted upon, will make the work 
easier and the results more certain. 

Accuracy in proportioning the materials is indispen- 
sable. The baking is usually the most difficult part. See 
that there is enough coal on the fire to last through the 
baking; and be sure to have the oven ready to receive 
the cake as soon as it is mixed, for the oven can wait for 
the cake, but the cake can never wait for the oven. 

For most kinds of cake the oven should be rather slow, 
but there should always be a steady heat. If it is too hot 
for sponge cake, it will cause the cake to rise and fall 
again. A good test for sponge cake is to put a piece of 

515 



5l6 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

white paper in the oven and close the door for five min- 
utes. If the paper is then of a rich yellow hue, the oven 
is right ; but if of a light yellow, it is too cool, or if of a 
dark brown, it is too hot. Should the oven by any acci- 
dent be found too hot after the cake is in, so that the 
cake browns almost at once, lift a lid off the stove, and 
cover the cake with a well buttered paper. The cake will 
not be so fine, but this is the only course to be pursued. 

Measure everything carefully before beginning. The 
sugar used should be the fine granulated. Powdered 
sugar makes a dry cake, while coarse granulated sugar 
does not melt, so that cake made with it is coarse and 
heavy. Cookies, layer-cakes and small cakes require a 
rather quick oven. The paper used in testing should 
turn a dark brown in five minutes. Never move a cake 
in the oven, unless it is a layer-cake ; and do not put any- 
thing in the oven while a cake is baking, or the cake will 
surely fall. 

If necessary to look at a cake while baking, do so as 
quickly as possible ; and never throw the door of the 
oven wide open for the purpose. Also be careful not to 
jar a cake while it is baking; shut the door of the oven 
very gently. Let loaf cake partially cool in the pan be- 
fore taking it out. A delicate cake is often made heavy 
by disturbing it while too hot. Never run straws or 
splints into a cake to test it ; a very little experience in 
cake-making will teach the beginner when the cake is 
done. A reliable guide is to watch for the separation of 
the cake from the sides of the tin ; when this takes place, 
the straw may be entered, if desired. But the main ob- 
jection to using a splint or fine knitting-needle, as some 
recommend, is that if the cake is not quite baked, the air 



CAKE. 517 

flows through the hole thus made, and the cake falls in 
consequence. 

Always sift the flour before measuring, unless the 
recipe orders the reverse. As flour differs in thickening 
qualities, a little inspection should be made of the first 
baking of cake from a package of flour to determine 
just how much is needed. When the cake rises in the 
center and cracks open, too much flour has been 
used. 

In a recipe that calls for two tea-spoonfuls of baking- 
powder, two tea-spoonfuls of cream of tartar and one of 
soda may be used instead. Sift the cream of tartar with 
the flour, dissolve the soda in a table-spoonful of cold 
water, and add it to the cake before the whites of the 

Of the makes of baking powders there is no end, and 
each kind seems to furnish unimpeachable testimonials 
from chemists as to strength, purity, etc. The writer, hav-' 
ing tried several kinds, has found that while the "Royal " 
makes fine biscuit and other edibles of the same nature, 
it does not make as good cake as the " Cleveland," which 
is, perhaps, the best on the market for that purpose. 
This powder makes a fine-grained, spongy cake, much 
lighter, with the same materials, than that in which 
" Royal " has been used. The writer has tested this 
point with a considerable interest, and always feels sure 
of her cake when the "Cleveland" powder is at hand. 
The *' Royal " powder produces a coarser grained cake, 
as if the sugar was too coarse. 

Fruit, such as raisins, currants, etc., should not be 
washed just before using, as, even when the cake is well 
done, the water softening the fruit would make it 



5l8 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

heavy and cause it to sink to the bottom. When the 
fruit is received from the grocer, pick over the raisins and 
currants, wash them, rub the currants in a coarse towel to 
dislodge the minute stems, and dry both thoroughly on 
tins. Leave llie fruit in a warm place all day, to make 
sure it is perfectly dry, and put it away in closely covered 
tin cans. When needed for subsequent baking, the cur- 
rants require only to be well fioured, and the raisins to 
be seeded and floured. This will be found a most con- 
venient plan. 

Never melt or warm the butter, unless so directed in 
the recipe. Beat it to a cream with the sugar. 

Use cups of uniform size to measure all materials. 

In baking fruit cake, always line the tins with well- 
buttered paper, fitting it neatly. Grease the cake pans 
with butter. Lard, which many recommend, is of ques- 
tionable advantage for this purpose. If the butter is very 
salt, wash the salt from it before using. 

Never mix cake in a tin basin, but alway use an 
earthenware dish*; for, when the butter and sugar are 
rubbed together, they will be found much darkened 
by the tin. Mix the spices with the flour or the 
sugar. 

The whites of the eggs will beat up quickly if the eggs 
are kept in a cool place. Add a pinch of salt to the 
whites before beating, as salt is cooling. Use a fork in 
beating the whites, instead of the egg-beater, unless the 
work must be hurried, as more froth may be produced 
with the fork than with the beater. 

In rubbing the butter and sugar together, use a spoon 
instead of the hand. 

To keep cake fresh, place it in a tightly covered tin box. 



CAKE. 519 

WEDDING FRUIT CAKE. 

One pound of brown sugar. Two cupfuls of molasses. 

One pound of butter. One wine-glassful of brandy. 

One pound of tlour. One-half ounce of mace. 

Four pounds of raisins. One-half ounce of cinnamon. 

Three pounds of currants. One-half ounce of nutmeg. 

One pound of citron. One-half ounce of cloves. 
Ten eggs. 

Seed the raisins, and chop them rather coarsely. 
Wash the currants, scrub off the little stems by vigorously 
rubbing the currants in a coarse towel, and dry the fruit 
well before using. Cut the citron in rather small pieces. 
Sift the flour, put in it all the spice, and sift again to 
thoroughly mix. Rub the butter and sugar together until 
they form a light cream. Separate the whites and yolks 
of the eggs, beat the yolks light, and add them to the 
butter and sugar ; then add the molasses and the brandy, 
stirring well after each addition. Sift a little of the flour 
on the raisins and currants, and slir the rest of it into the 
mixture, beating until smooth ; then add the fruit, and 
lastly the beaten whites of the eggs. Line two" medium- 
sized cake tins with well-buttered paper, divide the mix- 
ture between them, and bake two hours in a slow oven. 
This makes a fine wedding-cake, and it will last for years. 
Keep it in a stone or tin jar in a cool place. Cut in 
small squares for serving. The cake is v^^v rich, and 
much at a time is not required. 

PLAIN FRUIT-CAKE. 

One cupful of butter. Two tea-spoonfuls of cinnamon. 

Two cupfuls of brown sugar. Two tea-spoonfuls of cloves. 

One cupful of molasses. Two tea-spoonfuls of mace. 



520 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

One cupful of strong coffee. One nutmeg (grated). 

Four and a-half cupfuls of flour. Two pounds of raisins. 

Four eggs. Three-quarters of a pound of citron, 

o tea-spoonfuls of soda. Two pounds of currants. 



Rub the butter and sugar to a cream^ and add the 
beaten yolks of the eggs. Heat the coffee, and then 
stir in the soda. As soon as the latter is dissolved, turn 
the coffee into the molasses, stir well, and add to 
the butter and sugar. Sift the spices and the flour 
together ; seed and chop the raisins coarsely ; clean the 
currants, as directed in the preceding recipe ; and cut the 
citron in small pieces. Sift a little of the flour over 
the fruit, stir the rest of it into the mixture, and when 
well beaten, add the fruit. Lastly, add the beaten whites 
of the eggs. Bake in one large or two medium-sized tins 
for an hour and a-half in a rather slow oven, first lining 
the tins with well-buttered paper. 

WHITE FRUIT CAKE, 

One cupful of butter. One pound of figs. 

Two cupfuls of sugar. One pound of dates. 

Two and a-half cupfuls of flour. One pound of almonds. 

Seven eggs (whites only). One pound of raisins. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking- Three-quarters of a pound of cit- 
powder. ron. 

Rub the butter and sugar to a cream. Chop the fruit 
rather coarsely, keeping each variety separate from the 
others while chopping, and afterward mixing all lightly 
together with the fingers. Sift some of the flour over the 
fruit, place the powder in the rest of the flour, and sift 
the flour again to mix thoroughly. Then add the flour to 
the butter and sugar, stir in the fruit, and lastly add the 



CAKE. 



521 



beaten whites of the eggs. Bake slowly in two medium- 
^ sized tins for an hour and a-half. Line the tins with 
buttered paper. 

POOR man's fruit cake. 
One pound of fat salt pork. One pound of raisins. 

Three cupfHls of coffee (hot). One table-spoonful of cinnamon. 

Four cupfuls of sugar. One tea-spoonful of cloves 

One cupful of currants. Seven and a-half cupfuls of f^our. 

One cupful of figs. 

Chop the fat pork very fine, and pour over it the boil- 
ing coffee ; let the coffee cool slightly, and add the sugar. 
Chop the figs coarsely, seed and chop the raisins, and 
wash and dry the currants ; then put the fruit all together, 
and sift over it a little of the flour. Add the spices to 
the rest of the flour/and stir the latter into the coffee and 
sugar. When the mixture is well beaten, add the fruit, 
and bake in one loaf on buttered paper for an hour. 

SPONGE CAKE, NO. I. 

Six eggs. 

The weight, of five eggs in sugar. 

The weight of three eggs in flour. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

One-half tea-spoonful of baking-powder. 

One table-spoonful of lemon extract. 

Measures instead of weights are used in nearly all the 
recipes given in this book, as they are more convenient 
for the average housekeeper; but in making sponge cake, 
where the whole wetting depends on eggs, which vary so 
much in bulk, it is wisest to decide the quantities of 
sugar and flour by weight. For those who do not possess 



522 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

scales it may be well to state that the weight of five ordi- 
nary eggs in sugar is a full half-pint, while the weight of 
three eggs in flour is a scanty half-pint by measurement. 
Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs, and beat the 
yolks light ; add the salt to the whites, and beat them to 
a dry froth ; then put the yolks with the whites, and beat 
until the yellow is thoroughly incorporated with the white. 
Sift in the sugar by degrees, beating all the time, and add 
the extract. Sift the flour and baking-powder together, 
and add them to the mixture, stirring only enough to mix 
them well into the egg. Butter the pan well, and bake 
three-quarters of an hour in a single loaf. 

This is a most satisfactory recipe. When the cake is 
baked, it will have a delicious sugar coat on the top, 
resulting from sifting in the sugar a little at a time. 
Sponge cake should never be cut with a knife. Instead, 
break it in pieces, and serve on a cake-dish. This 
makes, perhaps, a rather untidy-looking dish ; but the 
cake is rendered heavy by the use of a knife. 

SPONGE CAKE, NO. 2. 

Three eggs. 

One and a-half cupful of sugar. 

One and a-half cupful of flour. 

One and a-half tea-spoonful of baking-powder. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of lemon or vani]Ia extract. 

One-half cupful of boiling water. 

Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs light separately : 
then place them together, and beat again. Sift in tlie 
sugar a little at a time, and add the flavoring, and the 
flour, into which has been stirred the baking-powder. 
Beat all well together, ajid at the very last stir in the hot 



CAKE. 523 

water. Bake in one loaf in a well buttered tin for three- 
quarters of an hour. Break for serving. 

WATER SPONGE CAKE. 

Four eggs. 
♦ Two cupfuls of pulverized sugar. 
Two cupfuls of flour. 
One-half cupful of water. 
One tea-spoonful of vanilla. 

Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs, and beat them 
first separately and then together. Sift in the sugar a 
little at a time, then add the vanilla and the flour, and 
lastly beat in the water quickly. Bake half an hour in a 
moderately quick oven. Break the cake for serving. 

\VHITE SPONGE CAKE. 

Ten eggs (whites). 

One and a-half cupful of sugar. 

One cupful of flour. 

One tea-spoonful of baking-powder. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of lemon extract. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

Add the salt to the whites of the eggs, and beat them 
stiff. Gradually sift in the sugar, and add the lemon 
extract. Stir the powder into the flour, and add the lat- 
ter to the eggs, beating lightly but mixing thoroughly. 
Bake in one loaf for three-quarters of an hour in a well 
buttered tin. ' Break in pieces when cold, to serve. 

CANADA SPONGE CAKK. 

Ten eggs (whites and yolks). 
Two coffee-cupfuls of sugar 
Two coffee-cupfuls of flour. 



524 THE PATTERN COOK-BOO]^, 



One tea-spoonful of baking-powder. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
Two tea-spoonfuls of flavoring. 

Add the salt to the whites of the eggs, and beat them 
stiff; beat the yolks light, and add them to the whites, 
beating both vigorously. Then add the sugar, and 
beat thoroughly ; sift the flour and the baking-powder 
together twice, and add them, stirring very gently 
with a whisk or a knife. Put in the flavoring, and bake 
half an hour in two well buttered tins. 

ENGLISH WHITE MOUNTAIN CAKE. 

One pound of sugar. 

One-half pound of butter. 

One-half pint of the whites of eggs. 

One-half pint of milk. 

One and a-quarter pound of flour. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

The above recipe is from an eminent English cook. 
The apportionment of eggs may seem strange, but it cer- 
tainly is a wise way of measuring, since eggs vary so 
much in bulk. Rub the butter and sugar together to 
form a cream, and add the milk. Sift the powder with 
the flour, and add this to the mixture ; and lastly add the 
whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Bake three- 
quarters of an hour in a large, well buttered tin. 

angels' food. 

One cupful of flour. 

One and a-haif cupful of granulated sugar. 

Eleven eggs (whites). 

One tea-spoonful of vanilla. 

(^ne tea-spoonful of cream of tartar. 



CAKE. 525 

Sift the flour four times; then measure it, and add the 
cream of tartar, and sift four times more. Sift the sugar 
through the flour-sieve three times. Beat the whites of 
the eggs to a stiff, dry froth, and add the sugar a little at 
a time, and then the flour and the vanilla. Bake forty 
minutes in a moderate oven. Do not butter the pan at 
all. Lay a paper on the bottom, leaving it unoiled also. 
When done turn the cake upside down, place the pan 
bottom upward, and lay the cake upon it. Frost the 
bottom of the cake. 

COFFEE SPICED CAKE. 

One-half cupful of sugar. One egg. 

One-half cupful of butter. One tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 

One-half cupful of molasses. One tea-spoonful of cloves. 

One-half cupful of coffee. One tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg. 

Two cupfuls of flour. One tea-spoonful of soda. 

One cupful of raisins. 

Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the egg, 
well beaten. Heat the coffee hot, add to it the soda, and 
when the latter is dissolved, turn the coffee into the 
molasses ; then add the mixture to the butter, sugar and 
^%g. Seed the raisins, and chop them rather coarsely. 
Sift the spices into the flour, sprinkle the raisins with a 
little of the flour, and stir the rest of the flour into the 
mixture. Lastly add the raisins, and beat well for at least 
Ave minutes, when all should be very smooth. Bake in 
one loaf for three-quarters of an hour. 

This is a very reliable recipe. More fruit may be 
added, if desired. Half a cupful of currant- may be 
mixed with the raisins, or a cupful of cunants alone may 
be used. 



3-6 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

SPICED CAKE, 

One cupful of sugar. One cupful of raisins. 

One-half cupful of butter. Two eggs. 

One and a-half cupful of sour One tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 

• milk. One-half tea-spoonful of cloves. 

One and a-half cupful of flour. One tea-spoonful of soda. 

Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the eggs, 
well beaten. Dissolve the soda in the milk, and add it 
to the mixture. Seed the raisins, chop them rather 
coarsely, and flour lightly. Sift the spice, with the rest 
of the flour, and add this to the preparation, stirring 
it in well. Lastly add the raisins, stir well, turn into a 
buttered tin, and bake rather slowly for three-quarters of 
an hour. 

WHITE CAKE, NO. I. 

One coffee-cupful of sugar. u 

One-half coffee-cupful of butter. 

One-half coffee cupful of milk. 

One coffee-cupful of flour. 

One-half coffee-cupful of corn-starch. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Three eggs (whites). 

Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the 
milk. Sift together the flour, corn-starch and baking- 
powder, and add them, beating well. Lastly, stir in the 
whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Bake for half 
an hour in a well buttered tin in a moderately quick oven. 
A flavoring may be added to the cake in mixing, if 
desired. 

WHITE CAKE, NO. 2. 

One and a-half tea-cupful of sugar. 
One-half tea-cupful of butter. 



CAA'£. 527 

One tea-cupful of water. 

Three tea-cupfuls of flour. 

Three tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla. 

Four eggs (whites). 

Mix in the order given in the preceding recipe, and 
bake for half an hour. This makes a very delicate cake. 

POUND CAKE. 

One-half pound of powdered sugar. 

One-half pound of butter. 

One-half pound of flour. 

Six eggs. 

One tea-spoonful of baking-powder. 

Two tea- spoonfuls of flavoring. 

Mix in the order given for white cake, No. i, and bake 
in one loaf in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an 
hour. 

CHEAP POUND-CAKE. 

One cupful of sugar. 
One-half cupful of butter. 
One third cupful of milk. 
One and a-half cupful of flour. 
One tea-spoonful of baking-powder. 
One tea-spoonful of mace. 
Three eggs. 

Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the eggs, 
well beaten, and then the milk. Sift the flour, baking- 
powder and mace well together, and stir them in, beating 
thoroughly. Bake forty minutes in a rather quick 
oven. 



528 THE PA TTERN CO OK-B OOK. 

COCOANUT LOAF CAKE. 

One cupful of sugar. 

One cupful of milk. 

One-half cupful of cocoanut. 

Two cupfuls of flour. 

One egg. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Three table-spoonfuls of melted butter. 

Place the melted butter and the sugar together, and 
stir well ; then add the beaten ^g% and the milk. Sift 
the baking-powder and flour together, and add them, 
beating vigorously. When all is smooth, add the cocoa- 
nut, and bake in one loaf for half an hour in a rather 
quick oven. 

PLAIN LOAF CAKE. 

One cupful of sugar. 

One-half cupful of butter. 

One-half cupful of milk. 

One and a-half cupful of flour. 

Two eggs. 

One tea-spoonful of baking-powder. 

One tea-spoonful of lemon or vanilla extract. 

Cream the butter and the sugar together by stirring 
well ; and add the milk, then the flavoring, and then the 
flour, into which the baking-powder has been stirred ; 
lastly add the eggs, well beaten. This cake requires 
little handling. Do not beat it any longer than is just 
necessary to blend the ingredients smoothly together. 
Bake for three-quarters of an hour. This is a very reli- 
able recipe and makes a delicious cake with very little 
labor. 



CAKE. 



QUICK LOAF CAKE. 



529 



One cupful of sugar. One table-spoonful of wine. 

One cupful of milk. One tea-spoonful of baking-pow- 
One-third of a cupful of melted der. 

butter. One and a-half tea-spoonful of 
Two cupfuls of flour. mace or nutmeg. 

One cupful of raisins. One tea-spoonful of bitter al- 
One egg (yolk only). mond extract. 

Place the ingredients together in the order of the pre- 
ceding- recipe, and bake for three-quarters of an hour. 
This cake is most delicious when fresh, but it soon 
becomes stale and dry. As this recipe makes but one 
loaf, however, the cake is not very likely to become stale. 

CREAM LOAF CAKE. 

One cupful of sweet cream. 

Two cupfuls of sugar. 

Three cupfuls of flour. 

Four eggs. 

Two and a-half tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

One lemon (grated peel). 

Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs separately, and 
add the sugar to the yolks, stirring well ; then put in the 
cream, the grated lemon-peel, the flour with the baking- 
powder stirred into it, and lastly the beaten whites of the 
eggs. Bake for forty minutes in a rather quick oven. 

GRAHAM CAKE. 

One cupful of brown sugar. Four table-spoonfuls of melted 

One cupful of sour milk. butter. 

One cupful of raisins. One tea-spoonful of soda. 

One egg. One tea-spoonful of cloves. 

Graham flour to thicken. One tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 

One-half nutmeg (grated). 



530 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Beat the sugar and butter lightly together, and add the 
^gg> well beaten. Stir the soda into the sour milk, and 
when it is dissolved, add the milk to the sugar and egg. 
Sift the spice with a cupful of flour, and add this and 
enough more flour to make a moderately thick batter. 
In using graham flour it is wise to remember that it 
swells considerably after being placed with a liquid ; 
therefore, this cake need not be quite so thick when fin- 
ished as are most varieties. Seed and chop the raisins, 
sift a little flour over them, and add them at the last. 
Beat vigorously for five minutes, and bake for three- 
quarters of an hour in a rather moderate oven. 

CAROLINE CAKE. 

The following quantities will make two loaves. 

Two cupfuls of sugar. 

Two and a-ha1£ cupfuls of flour. 

One cupful of sweet cream. 

Two table-spoonfuls of butter. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Five eggs (whites). 

Beat the butter and sugar well together ; add the cream, 
and then the flour, into which the baking-powder has 
been stirred; and lastly put in the whites of the eggs, 
well beaten. Bake in two loaves for three-quarters of an 
hour in a moderate oven. 

SHELLBARK (nUT) CAKE. 

Two cupfuls of sugar. 
One cupful of butter. 
One cupful of milk. 
Four eggs. 



CAKE. 531 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 
One pint of nut-meats. 
Flour to thicken. 

Cream the butter and sugar together, and then add the 
yolks of the eggs, the milk, and the flour with the baking- 
powder stirred into it. Next add the nut-meats, chopping 
them coarsely before adding ; and lastly stir in the beaten 
whites of the eggs. Bake for three-quarters of an hour 
in a well buttered pan in a moderate oven. 

CUP-CAKES, IN GEM PANS. 

These are very satisfactory, but are only good when 
quite fresh. The following ingredients will make sixteen 

cakes : 

One-half cupful of butter. 

One cupful of sugar. 

Two eggs. 

Fruit — raisins or currants. 

One cupful of milk. 

Three tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Two cupfuls of flour. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of lemon extract. 

Place the materials together the same as in the preced- 
ing recipe. Heat the gem-pans slightly, grease them 
thoroughly with butter, and place a small table-spoonful 
of the batter in each gem plate ; then lay upon the batter 
three or four whole raisins well floured, or scatter over it 
a few floured currants or two or three thin slices of citron. 
Add another small table-spoonful of the cake-batter to 
each gem, thus arranging the fruit in the center; then 
bake in a rather quick oven. These are very nice cakes 
for children (if cake is allowed them at all), for they are 
not at all rich. 



532 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

DROP CAKES. 

One cupful of brown sugar. Three cupfuls of flour. 

Three-quarters cupful of butter. Two tea-spoonfuls of soda. 

One cupful of sour milk. One tea-spoonful of cloves. 

Three-quarters cupful of mo- One tea-spoonful of cinnamon, 

lasses. Two eggs. 

Warm the molasses, dissolve the soda in the milk, and 
add it to the molasses. Rub the butter and sugar to a 
cream, and add the beaten eggs, and then the molasses 
mixture. Sift the spice with the flour, and stir the 
latter in ; then beat until all is smooth. Drop by 
spoonfuls on a buttered baking-tin, or bake in gem-pans 
or patty-pans, oiling well in any case. 

ROLLED JELLY CAKE. 

Two eggs. 

One cupful of sugar. 

One and a-half cupful of flour. 

Three table-spoonfuls of milk. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Mix together the sugar and the yolks of the eggs, beat- 
ing well, then add the milk and salt, and the flour, into 
which has been stirred the baking-powder. Lastly stir in 
the beaten whites of the eggs. Butter a dripping or 
cookie pan, turn in the batter, and bake quickly in a 
quick oven. When the cake is done, turn it bottom up 
on a baking-board; spread the cake with jelly, roll it up, 
and wrap a cloth or towel about it to keep it in shape 
until cooled. Cut from the end of the roll when 



533 



CAKE. 

SPONGE JELLY ROLL. 
Three eggs. 

One coffee-cupful of sugar. 
One coffee-cupful of flour. 
Two tea-spoonfuls of lemon extract. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
Two table-spoonfuls of water. 

Put the ingredients together the same as in the preced- 
ing recipe, and roll up as directed. This makes a larger 
cake than the last mentioned. 

MARBLE CAKE. 

One cupful of sugar. 
One-half cupful of butter. 

Rub these to a cream, divide the cream into two por- 
tions, and use one portion for the dark and the other 
portion for the light part of the cake. 

THE DARK PART. 

One-quarter cupful of molasses. 
One-half cupful of milk. 
One cupful of flour. 
Two eggs (yolks). 
One tea-spoonful of baking-powder. 
One-half tea-spoonful of cloves. 
One-half tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 
One-quarter tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg. 

Add to one of the portions of creamed butter and sugar 
the beaten yolks of the eggs, and then the milk and 
molasses. Stir the powder, spice and flour together, add 
the mixture, and beat thoroughly for three or four min- 
utes. It may be found necessary to slightly increase the 



534 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

quantity of flour named. The track made by the spoon 
in stirring the butter should not at once sink back. 

THE LIGHT PART. 

Two eggs (whites). 

One tea-spoonful of baking-powder. 

One-half cupful of milk. 

One cupful of flour. 

Add the milk to the other portion of sugar and butter ; 
then put in the flour, into which the powder has first been 
stirred ; and lastly add the beaten whites of the eggs. 

Place a layer of the dark part in a well buttered cake- 
lin, then a layer of the light, and so continue until all the 
batter is used, ending with the dark. Bake for three- 
quarters of an hour in a moderate oven. 

DOUGLASS CAKE. 

One and a-half cupful of sugar. 

One cupful of milk. 

One-half cupful of butter. 

One cupful of raisins. 

Two and a-half cupfuls of flour. 

One egg. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

This cake, when properly made, is extremely delicious. 
It is necessary to use pastry flour for it and fine granu- 
lated sugar. The fruit may be omitted, if not cared for, 
and a table-spoonful of vanilla substituted. Beat the 
butter and sugar together until quite light and creamy ; 
next add the beaten ^^g and then the milk. Seed the 
raisins, chop them coarsely, and sift over them a little of 
the flour. Mix the baking-powder through the rest of 
the flour by sifting the two together at least twice ; beat 



CAKE. 535 

the flour carefully into the mixture, and add the fruit. 
Then beat the batter at least three minutes, and bake 
three-quarters of an hour in a moderate oven. The flour 
should be well sifted before being measured for this cake. 
A chocolate icing made with confectioners' sugar will be 
found particularly nice. 

CHOCOLATE CAKE. 

One-half cupful of butter. 

Two cupfuls of sugar. 

Two cupfuls of flour. 

One-half cupful of coffee (hot). 

One-half cupful of milk. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla. 

Two eggs. 

One square of chocolate. 

Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the 
beaten eggs, and then the milk. Grate the chocolate fine, 
and add it to the coffee, which should be very hot ; stir 
well, and gradually add this mixture to the butter, sugar 
and eggs. Sift the powder and the flour together, add 
the flour, beating well, and then put in the vanilla. Bake 
in one loaf for forty minutes in a moderate oven. 

EGOLESS CAKE. 

One and a-half tea-cupful of sugar. 
Three tea-cupfuls of sifted flour. 
One tea-cupful of sour milk. 
One-half tea-cupful of butter. 
One tea-spoonful of soda. 
One-half tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 
One-half tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg. 
One tea-cupful of raisins. 



/ 



536 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOIC. 

Dissolve the soda in the milk. Rub the butter and 
sugar well together, and add the milk. Seed the raisins, 
chop them rather coarsely, and flour them lightly with a 
little of the flour. Sift the spice with the rest of the flour, 
and stir the latter into the mixture, beating hard ; then 
add the raisins. Bake for forty minutes in one loai 

CUP CAKE. 

One cupful of sugar. 

Three-quarters cupful of butter. 

One-half cupful of milk. 

Two eggs. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Flour to thicken. 

Unite the ingredients the same as in loaf cake. 

"l, 2, 3, 4" CAKE. 

This following recipe will make two good-sized loaves. 

One cupful of butter. 

One cupful of milk. 

Two cupf uls of sugar. 

Three cupful s of flour. 

Four eggs. 

Three tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Put the ingredients together the same as for loaf cake. 
Divide the mixture, place it in tins, and bake. 

RAISED LOAF CAKE. 

Three cupfuls of warm milk. 
One cupful of sugar. 
One-half cupful of yeast, or 
One-half cake of compressed yeast. 
Flour to thicken. 



%-. 



CAKE. 537 

Place the milk, sugar and yeast together, and add 
enough flour to make a rather thick batter. Set the 
batter in a warm place over night. In the morning add 

One and a-half cupful of butter. 

Two cupfuls of sugar. 

One cupful of raisins. 

One wine-glassful of wine or brandy. 

One tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 

One-half tea-spoonful of nutmeg. 

Two eggs. 

Work the butter thoroughly into the batter before add- 
ing the beaten eggs and the sugar, spice and brandy. 
Seed and chop the raisins, flour them, and beat them in 
at the last. Place the cake in two medium-sized tins, 
and when it has risen nicely, bake slowly for fifty min- 
utes. 

DOUGH CAKE. 

The following materials will make two loaves: 

Four cupfuls of light bread dough. Two tea-spoonfuls of cinnamon. 

Two cupfuls of sugar. One tea-spoonful of cloves. 

One cupful of butter. One tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg. 

One cupful of raisins. Three eggs. 

One tea-spoonful of soda. One table-spoonful of cold water. 

Dissolve the soda in the water, and add the latter to 
the dough ; then thoroughly mix in the butter and sugar, 
and add the rest of the recipe. Bake in two well but- 
tered tins, first allowing the cake to rise in the tins until 
quite light. Bread dough cake or raised cake requires 
much beating to mix it thoroughly, it being frequently 
necessary to use the hands to make the whole entirely 
smooth. 



538 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

NUT CAKE. 

One and a-half cupful of sugar. 

One-half cupful of butter. 

Three-quarters cupful of milk. 

Two cupfuls of flour. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of "baking-powder. 

Four eggs (whites only) 

One and a-quarter pounds of English walnuts. 

Mix the ingredients the same as for loaf cake, adding 
the beaten whites of the eggs last. Crack the nuts, 
and reserve twenty-five perfect halves for use on the 
icing upon the top ; chop the rest of the meats fine, and 
stir them into the cake just before adding the eggs. 
Bake in one loaf for forty-five minutes. Frost the top 
with plain frosting (see page 550), and place the perfect 
meats on top of the frosting, sinking them into it in 
squares. 

COCOANUT DROP CAKES. 

One cupful of sugar. 

One-half cupful of batter. 

One cupful of milk. 

One cupful of cocoanut. 

Two cupfuls of flour. 

Two eggs. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Place the cocoanut in the milk and let it soak for an 
hour ; then rub the butter and sugar together, and add 
the beaten eggs, the milk and cocoanut, and lastly the 
flour, into which has been stirred the baking-powder. 
Bake in well buttered gem-pans or patty-pans. Frost the 
cakes. 



CAKE. 539 

CREAM MOLASSES CAKE. 

One egg. One and a-half tea-spoonful of soda. 

One-half cupful of sugar. One tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 

One cupful of molasses. One-half tea-spoonful of cloves. 

One cupful of sour cream. One-half tea-spoonful of nutmeg. 

Flour to thicken. Two tea-spoonfuls of cold water. 

Stir the sugar into the egg. Add the soda to the water, 
and when it is dissolved stir the liquid into the molasses, 
and add the latter to the cream. When the whole is well 
stirred together, mix it with the egg and sugar. Sift the 
spice into a little flour, and add this, and enough more 
flour to make a not too thick batter. Pour the latter into 
a well buttered tin, and bake for an hour. 

SILVER CAKE. 

One-half cupful of butter. 

One and a-half cupful of sugar. 

One-half cupful of milk. 

Two and a-half cupfuls of flour. 

Four eggs (whites). 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Place the ingredients together the same as for loaf 
cake, adding the whites of the eggs, well beaten, at the 
last. Bake in a well buttered tin for forty minutes. 

GOLD CAKE. 

One-half cupful of butter. 

One and a-half cupful of sugar. ^ 

One-half cupful of milk. 

Two and a-half cupfuls of flour. 

Five eggs (all the yolks and one white). 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla. 



540 THE PATTERN COO^K-BOOlC. 

Beat the yolks and the one white until very light, and 
add them to the creamed butter and sugar. Then add 
the milk, the flour into which the baking powder has been 
stirred, and lastly the vanilla. Bake for forty-five minutes 
in a moderate oven. 

BUTTERMILK CAKE. 
One-half cupful of butter. 
One and a-half cupful of sugar. 
Two and a-half cupfuls of flour. 
One cupful of buttermilk. 
One-half tea-spoonful of soda. 
Two eggs. 

Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the 
yolks of tlxe eggs, well beaten. Mash the soda, dissolve 
it in the buttermilk, and add the latter to the butter, eggs 
and sugar. Stir in the flour, beat until smooth, and then 
stir in quickly the beaten whites of the eggs. Bake in a 
well buttered tin for forty-five niinutes. 

LAYER CAKES. 

These cakes require a very hot oven. They should 
cook in five minutes at the longest, and are not disturbed 
by being turned if one side is browning too fast for the 
other. Many people bake these cakes on the grate of the 
oven with good success, as the heat is stronger there. In 
making a layer cake that is to have a rich, sweet filling, 
like chocolate, half a cupful of sugar will be found suffi- 
cient, unless a very sweet cake is desired, 

PLAIN LAYER CAKE. 

One-half cupful of butter. 
One cupful of sugar. 



CAKE. 541 

One cupful of milk. 

One egg. 

One and a-half tea-spoonful of baking-powder. 

Flour to thicken. 

Rub the butter * and sugar together, and add the 
egg, well beaten, and then the milk. Stir the powder 
into a little of the flour, and add it, stirring it in quickly ; 
then add enough more flour to make a not too thin batter. 
Place the batter in three well buttered tins, and bake. 
The batter for all layer cake should be so thick that the 
track made by the spoon in stirring it will not at once 
sink, back into the mixture. This is a good test. This 
quantity will make three medium-sized layers of cake. 
Place any of the fillings given (see page 544) between the 
layers. 

QUICKLY MADE LAYER CAKE. 

One-half cupful of butter. 

One-half cupful of sugar. 

Two eggs. 

One-half cupful of milk. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Flour to thicken. 

The writer has often found this way of making layer 
cake more successful than when "more time and pains 
are devoted to its making. Butter the three tins for the 
cake first, and be sure the heat of the oven is strong and 
steady. Rub the butter into the sugar, break into this 
the eggs, stir them in quickly without previously beating 
them, add the milk, and stir until smooth. Scatter the 
baking-powder over the top of the mixture, sprinkle some 
of the flour over it, and stir thoroughly, adding enough 



542 THE PA TTERN COOK-BQOK. 

more flour to thicken ; then pour the batter into the tins. 
Cake made in this way does not require more than five 
minutes' work after the materials are gotten together. 
Bake quickly, and spread any of the fiUings given between 
the layers. 

WHITE MOUNTAIN LAYER CAKE. 

The following will make four large layers, thus forming 
a good-sized cake: 

One cupful of butter. 

Three cupfuls of sugar. 

One cupful of milk. 

Six eggs (whites). 

One and a-half tea-spoonful of baking-powder. 

One pint of flour (sifted). 

Twenty drops of extract of bitter ahnond. 

Rub the butter and sugar to a light cream, and add the 
milk and then the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff 
froth. Sift the flour with the powder, and add it and the 
extract. Mix all well together, divide the batter among 
four tins, and bake in a quick oven. Spread plain frost- 
ing between the layers, and frost the top. 

RIBBON CAKE. 

This cake contains three large layers, the middle one 
having fruit through it. It is a large cake. 

One cupful of butter. 

Two cupfuls of sugar. 

One cupful of milk. 

Four eggs. 

Three and a-half cupfuls of pastry flour. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 



CAKE. 543 

Separate the yolks and whites of the eggs. Rub the 
butter and sugar to a cream, add to this the well beaten 
yolks, stir well, and put in the milk and then the flour 
into which has been stirred the baking-powder. Lastly 
add the beaten whites. Have ready buttered three long, 
shallow tins of equal size. Divide the cake into three 
parts, and bake two of them plain. To the third add 

One cupfu! of raisins. 
One cupful of currants. 
One-quarter of a pound of citron. 
Two tea-spoonfuls of molasses. 
Two tea-spoonfuls of brandy or wine. 
One-half tea-spoonful of mace. 
One-half tea-spoonfuj of cinnamon. 

Seed the raisins and chop them coarsely, wash and dry 
the currants, and slice the citron fine ; then put all the 
fruit together, and flour it well. Stir the fruit and spice 
into the third portion of batter, and bake in the third tin. 
When all the layers are done, arrange them with the fruit 
cake in the middle, spreading a coat of jelly between 
them. Press each cake lightly with the hand as it is 
laid on, to insure the layers sticking closely together. 
Trim the edges even, and frost with a plain or a boiled 
frosting. 

CARAMEL CAKE. 

To make three large layers allow 

One cupful of butter. 

Two cupfuls of sugar. 

One cupful of milk. 

Three cupfuls of flour. 

Five eggs (whites.). 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 



544 



THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 



Place the ingredients together the same as for plain 
layer cake, adding the whites of the eggs last. Bake in 
three well buttered tins, and when done, spread between 
the layers the caramel filling (see page 546). 

WHITE LAYER CAKE. 

One cupful of sugar. 

One-lialf cupful of butter. 

One-half cupful of milk. 

Two cupfuls of flour. 

Four eggs (whites). 

One and a-half tea-spoonful of baking-powder. 

Put the ingredients together, the same as in the pre- 
ceding recipe. Bake in three layer-cake tins, well but- 
tered, and spread frosting between the layers. 

VARIETY LAYER CAKE. 

One cupful of sugar. 

One table-spoonful of butter. 

One cupful of milk. 

Two eggs. 

Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Flour to thicken. 

Make the same as plain layer cake, and bake in four 
layers. When done, spread between the first and second 
layers a coating of currant jelly, between the second and 
third simple melted chocolate, and between the third and 
fourth the cream filling (see page 545), and frost the top. 

FILLINGS FOR LAYER CAKES. 

In arranging a layer cake it is much more satisfactory 
if the bottom instead of the top of the cake receives the 
filling, the bottom being much more porous and receptive. 



CAKE. 545 

The bottom of the layers will be much softer, and no 
crust at all will form on them, if the cakes are baked on 
the grate of the oven. Put the layers together as soon 
as possible after they are baked ; turn one layer upside 
down for the bottom, spread over it whatever filling is to 
be used, lay the second sheet of cake bottom side up on 
this one, spread it with filling, and so continue, placing 
the top layer with the bottom side downward. 

Cake baked and put together in this way will retain 
whatever filling is put into it ; the layers will not press the 
filling out between them as is often the case when the 
crusted part receives the filling. 

CREAM FILLING. 

One-half pint of milk. 
One table-spoonful of corn-starch. 
• Two table-spoonfuls of sugar. 
One egg (yolk). 
One-half salt-spoonful of salt. 
Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla. 
One-half tea-spoonful of butter. 

Measure the corn-starch evenly across the spoon, 
and put with it two table-spoonfuls of the milk. Add to 
the beaten yolk of the ^gg two table-spoonfuls of the 
milk, and beat well with a fork ; then put these two mix- 
tures together. Place the rest of the milk on the fire in 
a small sauce-pan set in another containing boiling water, 
and when the milk is boiling, stir into it the corn-starch 
mixture. Stir the whole until smooth, and let it cook 
four minutes, stirring all the time. Add the salt, sugar 
and butter as soon as the corn-starch is thoroughly stirred 
in. Then remove from the fire, stir a moment to cool the 
liquid somewhat, add the vanilla, and use. 
35 



54^ THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

CARAMEL FILLING. 

One and a-half cupful of brown sugar. 
One cupful of milk. 
One table-spoonful (scant) of butter. 
One-half table-spoonful of vanilla. 

Place the milk, sugar, and butter on the fire in a sauce- 
pan set in another containing boiling water and cook 
until thick. Take from the fire and beat it hard until 
stiff. Then add the vanilla. 

APPLE FILLING. 

One egg (white). 

One-half cupful of powdered Sugar. 

One large, sour apple. 

Whip the egg to a very stiff froth, and add to it the sugar. 
Grate the apple fine, stir it in very gradually, and use. 

APPLE AND LEMON FILLING. 

One apple (grated). 

One lemon (juice and grated rind). 

One cupful of sugar. 

Grate the apple and the rind of the lemon, place them on 
the lire with the juice and sugar, and boil for five minutes. 

ORANGE FILLING, NO. I. 

Two oranges (juice and rind). 

Two table-spoonfuls of cold water. 

Two cupfuls of sugar. 

Two eggs (yolks and one of the whites). 

Grate the yellow from the oranges, and place the gratings 



CAKE. 547 

in a saucepan with the orange juice, a table-spoonful 
of the water and the sugar. Set the saucepan in another 
containing boiling water. Beat the yolks with the other 
table-spoonful of water, and when the mixture in the 
saucepan is hot, stir in the water and yolks. Let the 
preparation cook a minute, when the whole should be 
thickened; and just before taking it from the fire, stir in 
the slightly beaten white of one of the eggs. Remove at 
once from the heat, and use when cold. 

ORANGE FILLING, NO. 2. 

Two oranges (juice, and grated rind of but one). 
Two table-spoonfuls of cold water. 
One dessert-spoonful of corn-starch. 
One-half cupful of sugar. 
One egg. 

Place the corn-starch in half of the water, and when it is 
dissolved, stir in the beaten yolk of the egg, and stir until 
smooth. Place the rest of the water, the juice of the 
oranges and the grated rind of but one of them, on the 
fire, and when the liquid boils, add the egg mixture. 
Cook two minutes, and add the slightly beaten white of 
the ^gg just before taking the filling from the fire. Cool 
partly before using. 

COCOANUT BILLING, 

One and a-half cupful of cocoanut. 
Two eggs (whites). 

Four table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. 
A little milk. 

Moisten the cocoanut with a little warm milk, and let it 
soak until well softened — usually half an hour. Beat the 



548 THE PA TTE-liN COOK-BOOK. 

whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add the sugar to 
them. Spread on the bottom cake a thin layer of the 
frosting of &gg and sugar, and then a covering of the 
soaked cocoanut, and repeat this operation until all the 
layers ^e arranged. To what is left of the trosting, add 
enough sugar to thicken, stir in the remnant of cocoanut, 
and spread the mixture thickly over the top, sprinkling 
di^ cocoanut over the whole. 

CHOCOLATE FILLING, NO. I. 

One-half cupful of grated chocolate. 
9ne-half cupful of milk. 
One cupful of brown sugar. 
Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla. 
One-half tea-spoonful of butter. 

Place the milk and chocolate together in a saucepan on 
the fire, and stir until the whole is thick and creamy ; 
then add the sugar, stir until smooth, and cook two mm- 
utes. Add the butter, remove from the fire, and add the 
vanilla ; use when slightly cooled. 

For the top of the cake either use a plain frosting, or 
else apportion the filling so there will be enough left to 
cover the top. Return this portion to the fire, and cook 
until it is thick, stirring every minute ; then spread it on 
the top, smoothing it down with a knife wet in hot water. 

CHOCOLATE* FILLING, NO. 2. 

One-half cupful of grated chocolate. 
One-half cupful of milk. 
One-half cupful of white sugar. 
Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla. 
One-half tea-spoonful of butter. 



CAKE. 549 

Unite the ingredients the same as directed in the preced- 
ing recipe. This is not so sweet and rich a filling as No. 
I, and on that account will be found satisfactory to many. 

LEMON FILLING. 

One-half cupful of cold water. 

One cupful of sugar. 

One even table-spoonful of flour. 

One lemon (rind and juice). 

One egg (yolk only). 

One tea-spoonful of butter. 

Place two table-spoonfuls of the water on the flour, and 
stir until the paste is perfectly smooth ; then add the 
well beaten ^gg^ and beat again vigorously with a fork. 
Place the rest of the water, the sugar, the lemon-juice 
and grated rind, and the butter, over the fire in a sauce- 
pan set in another containing boiling water. When this 
mixture is boiling, stir into it the flour mixture, cook until 
it is shiny, and partly cool before using. 

FROSTING OR ICING CAKE. 

The old method of making frosting is no longer fol- 
lowed. It used to be thought necessary to beat the white 
of the ^gg to a very stiif froth, and then to add the sugar. 
Frosting made in this way is extremely hard when 
cut and after a few days can scarcely be cut at all. There 
are many kinds of frosting made just now, but none are 
prepared in this way, except for elaborate decorating. It 
is more satisfactory to have the cake cold to receive the 
frosting, for when it is hot, the sugar in the icing melts 
and often runs down the sides of the cake, giving the lat- 
ter a most untidy appearance. 



550 THE PATTERiV COOK-BOOK. 

TO DECORATE WITH ICING. 

It requires very little extra labor to decorate a frosted 
cake, and it can be done as soon as the icing is cold and 
set. Funnels having ends of different shape may be pur- 
chased for this purpose. In place of a funnel, a cornu- 
copia made of stiff writing-paper may be used. Cut off a 
little of the point of the cornucopia, fill the latter with 
frosting, and press it out at the small end, forming differ- 
ent shapes according to taste. 

When a name or a date is to be placed on a cake, as is 
frequently the case with children's birthday cakes, etc., 
the icing may be colored with red sugar, dissolved 
chocolate or cochineal. Trace the name or date on 
the center of the cake with a pencil, and then follow 
the lines with the frosting. An easy and very pretty dec- 
oration is made by placing dry red sugar in the cornuco- 
pia and running it from the small end upon the soft icing, 
making a name, an initial or a date. The point of the 
cornucopia should be very small for this work. 

PLAIN FROSTING. 

One egg (white). 

Eight table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. 

One-half tea-spoonful of vanilla. 

Beat the white only enough to thin it, but not so as 
to make it frothy ; then add the sugar. In measuring the 
sugar have the spoonfuls even full — not heaped. Stir 
with a fork until the frosting is perfectly smooth and 
light ; the longer it is beaten the finer it will be. Add 
the vanilla, and when it is well mixed in the frosting will 
be readv to use. Place all the frosting in the middle of 



CAKE. 551 

the cake, and press it outward until almost rolling lo the 
edge ; then set the cake in a current of cold air, if possi- 
ble, to set the icing at once, so it will not run off the 
cake ; or set it in the refrigerator. This quantity will 
make a very deep frosting for one cake only, and will 
really be sufficient for two ordinary-sized cakes. 

When only one cake is to be iced and the frosting is 
not desired thick or deep, beat the egg thin, measure a 
large table-spoonful of it, and to this add four table- 
spoonfuls of the sugar. This will make a frosting of 
sufficient depth to suit most tastes. Frosting made in 
this way will form a crust on top, under which the sugar 
will keep soft. 

COCOANUT FROSTING. 

Thicken plain frosting with two table-spoonfuls of 
prepared cocoanut, spread it upon the cake, and scatter 
dry cocoanut over the icing while still soft. 

CHOCOLATE FROSTING, NO. I. 

One ounce of chocolate (one square) 
Three table-spoonfuls of sugar. 
One table-spoonful of water. 

Place these ingredients together in a small frying-pan, 
and stir over a hot fire until the mixture is smooth and 
glossy. Let the chocolate cool, add it to plain frosting, 
and use. 

CHOCOLATE FROSTING, NO, 2. 

Take equal parts of grated chocolate and powdered 
sugar. Melt .the chocolate over the steam of a tea-kettle, 
placing it for this purpose in an earthenware bowl set in 



552 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

the top of the kettle. When the chocolate is meUed, add 
the sugar and a tea-spoonful of vanilla. Stir until 
nearly cool, and use. 

BOILED FROSTING. 

This frosting is convenient to make when there is no 
powdered sugar at hand. The following will make an 
ample allowance for one cake : 

One cupful of granulated sugar. 
One-quarter cupful of boiling water. 
One-quarter tea-spoonful of cream of tartar. 
One egg (white). 
One-half tea-spoonful of vanilla. 

Place the sugar, water and cream of tartar in a small 
sauce-pan set in another containing boiling water, and 
boil for six minutes. Do not stir the sugar at all, or 
it will granulate. Beat the ^g%^ stiff, and gradually add to 
it the boiling syrup, pouring the latter in a thin stream on 
the ^gg^ and stirring rapidly. Beat for five minutes after 
the last has been added, and flavor to taste. 

SOFT FROSTING WITHOUT EGG. 

Twelve table-spoonfuls of sugar. 
Eight table-spoonfuls of milk. 

Boil these together for five minutes in a saucepan set 
in another containing boiling water. Remove from the 
fire, and stir very vigorously until cooled. The frosting is 
then ready for use. 

FROSTING WITH CONFECTIONERS' SUGAR. 

This sugar makes very fine frosting and does not 



CAKE. 553 

require the use of an egg in the making. By confection- 
ers' sugar, however, is not meant the ordinary powdered 
sugar, although both are about the same price. 

For a Plai7i Frosting. — Add to four table-spoonfuls of 
the sugar a scanty table-spoonful of water or milk, stir 
well, and use. Add a little more sugar, if the frosting is 
not thick enough. 

For a Chocolate Frosting. — Make the plain frosting, and 
add to it half a square of chocolate, which has first 
been put in a cup and set over steam to melt, being used 
when thoroughly melted. 

FROSTING WITH GELATINE. 

One-half table-spoonful of gelatine. 
One-half table-spoonful of cold water. 
One table-spoonful of boiling water. 
Pulverized sugar. 
Lemon extract to flavor. 

Place the gelatine and cold water in a bowl, cover, and 
let the gelatine soak half an hour ; then add the boiling 
water, stir until the gelatine is dissolved, and strain it 
through a fine wire strainer. Add sugar to thicken, and 
a tea-spoonful of the extract. Frost when the cake is 
perfectly cold. 



BEVERAGES. 

" If the kettle boiling be 
Seven minutes makes the tea." 

" Hunger is the best seasoning for meat, and thirst for drink." 

TEA. 

Tea is the dried leaves of the tea-plant ; these are 
picked in May and June of each year, the plants usually 
surviving four or five seasons. The tea-leaf contains a 
larger amount of nutritive matter than any plant used for 
human food, although but a small portion of this nourish- 
ment is extracted by our common method of making tea. 
By that method, which, of course, aims to produce a bev- 
erage only, we use such a comparatively small quantity 
of tea that the amount of nutriment obtained is very 
little, the chief value of the drink being the sense of 
warmth and comfort that it diffuses through the sys- 
tem. 

In making tea a tin or granite pot should not be used, 
but one of either earthern, china or silver ware. When a 
metal pot is used, the tannic acid acts upon the metal, 
thus producing a poisonous compound. The water should 
be freshly boiled and used at the first boil, as after it boils 
a few minutes it parts with its gases and becomes flat 

554 



BEVERAGES. 555 

and hard. Pour boiling water into the pot, and let it 
remain long enough to thoroughly heat the pot ; then 
pour it out, put in the tea, pour over it the quantity of 
boiling water required, and stand the pot on the back 
part of the stove for from five to eight minutes, accord- 
ing to the kind of tea used. Most varieties of tea will be 
ready in five minutes, but the English Breakfast, than 
which there is no better tea, requires fully eight minutes 
to extract its full strength. This tea should be placed in 
a greater heat than any other kind. It should be almost 
hot enough to boil, but the boiling point should, of 
course, never be quite reached. The quantity of dry tea 
to be used for each person depends altogether upon indi- 
vidual taste. The old rule, " a tea-spoonful of tea for 
each person and one for the pot," is a good one to follow, 
and by allowing a generous half-pint of water for each 
spoonful of tea, a moderately strong brewing is obtained. 
When several cupfuls of tea are required the proportion 
of tea may be reduced. 

ICED TEA. 

This IS a favorite drink in summer. Make the tea as 
above directed, strain it from the leaves, and set it on 
the ice for three or four hours. Serve with broken ice in 
each glass. 

RUSSIAN TEA. 

This is made by placing a slice of lemon in each cup 
before pouring in the boiling hot tea. 

COFFEE. 

Coffee grows on small trees. Mocha, the best variety. 



556 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

is grown in Arabia. The fruit of the tree is something 
like our cherry and contains two seeds or beans. By 
bruising the fruit, the berries are separated, and they are 
then washed and dried. The raw berries are tough and 
contain but little flavor. Much depends upon the man- 
ner in which the berries are roasted. Comparatively few 
people nowadays roast their own coffee, the work being 
done so well by the large establishments. Mocha and 
Java mixed — one-third of the former and two-thirds of 
the latter — is considered the most satisfactory combina- 
tion by the majority of people. Buy coffee in small 
quantities and unground, keep it in air-tight tin cans, 
and grind it only as required. The finer it is ground, the 
stronger will be the extract. 

There are many kinds of coffee-pots in use, and many 
are modifications of the French coffee-pot or biggim The 
coffee may be made in anything resembling the French 
coffee-pot, as none of the aroma is lost, the spout of the 
pot being closed with a thimble that prevents the escape 
of the steam. The coffee is filtered and comes out 
clear and bright. 

TO MAKE FILTERED COFFEE. 

The coffee should be ground as fine as the mill will 
make it. Allow half a cupful of the ground coffee to a 
generous quart of water; this makes sufficient for five 
cupfuls of coffee. Place the coffee in the cloth or strainer 
in the top of the pot, arranged for the purpose, pour the 
boiling water upon it, and set the pot back, allowing the 
water to filter slowly through. When it is all through, 
set the pot over the heat, and when the coffee is just at 
the bubbling point, pour it out, and at once return it to 



BEVERAGES. t^^'j 

the top of the pot to filter once more. Do this still 
again, making three times in all that the water has 
been poured upon the coffee ; and serve at once. This 
produces a clear, bright coffee and requires, at the most, 
not longer than five minutes in the making, if the heat is 
properly brisk. Coffee should be served as soon as 
made, or the bright tiavor will be lost. 

BOILED COFFEE. (iN COMMON COFFEE-POT.) 

One cupful of unground coffee. 

One egg. 

One quart of boiling water. 

Three table-spoonfuls of cold water. 

Grind the coffee coarsely, and put it into the pot, 
which should be well scalded. Beat the ^gg well," add to 
it the cold water, and stir this mixture into the dry coffee 
in the pot ; then pour on the boiling water, and place the 
pot on the fire. Stir the coffee until it boils, and then 
set it on the back of the stove where it will just bubble 
for ten minutes. Pour a little of the coffee into a cup 
and return it to the pot, to clear the grounds from the 
spout. Let the coffee stand for five minutes where it 
will not bubble, pour it through a fine sieve into a hot 
serving pot, and send to the table at once. This makes 
a very strong coffee, and more or less water may be 
used, according as the coffee is liked weak or strong. 

A cup of coffee is not perfect without cream. If 
cream cannot be used, the next best thing for many 
tastes is condensed milk. When this is disliked, hot 
milk may be substituted. The milk should be heated to 
the boiling point, but should not boil. Never serve cold 
milk with coffee. The cups should be warmed with hot 



558 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

water before being used for the coffee, as the latter can 
scarcely be served hot enough and is simply a disas- 
trous failure when half cold. 

AFTER-DINNER BLACK COFFEE. 

This is made by either of the recipes given, double the 
proportion of coffee being used. It should be very 
strong and clear and should be served in small cups, 
with block sugar, if desired, but never with cream or 
milk. 

VIENNA COFFEE. 

This is the same as the ordinary coffee, with the addi- 
tion of whipped cream at serving. 

CAFE AU LAIT, 

This is made of equal quantities of filtered coffee and 

boiled milk. 

COCOA. 

Cocoa or chocolate nuts are the seeds of a tree growing 
in Mexico, the West Indies and South America. These 
seeds are roasted the same as coffee, until the aroma is 
brought out. They are then pounded to a paste in a hot 
moi tar or ground between rollers. The substance thus 
produced, when mixed with sugar, starch, vanilla and 
cinnamon, forms the chocolate of commerce. 

Cocoa is made by grinding the bean fine, partly extract- 
ing the oil, and mixing a small proportion of sugar with 
the remaining powder. 

Cocoa nibs are the bean deprived of its husks and 
then broken into small pieces. This is the purest and 



BEVERAGES. 559 

best cocoa in our market. The shells or husks are also 
used to make a weak decoction for people with delicate 
digestion. 

TO MAKE COCOA. 

One quart of milk. 

Four table-spoonfuls of cocoa. 

Put the milk on the fire in a farina kettle. Moisten the 
cocoa with a little cold milk, and pour it into the milk in 
the kettle as soon as it boils, stirring all the while it is 
being added. Stir until the milk again boils, cover the 
kettle, boil five minutes, and serve. Whipped cream is 
often served with cocoa. 

COCOA FROM THE NIBS. 

One-half cupful of broken cocoa. 
Two quarts of water. 
One pint of cream. 

Place the cocoa and water together in the double boiler, 
and boil them for two hours, when they should be reduced 
in quantity one-half. Heat the cream, add it, strain, and 
serve. 

cocoatinA. 

This is very like chocolate, but is more delicate, and is 
nearly free from oil. 

Two table-spoonfuls of cocoatina. 
One table-spoonful of sugar. 
Four table-spoonfuls of boiling water. 
One and a-half pint of milk. 

Place the cocoatina in a bowl with the sugar, add the 



560 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

boiling water, and rub the cocoa to a paste. IJeat the 
milk to boiling, stir in the paste, whisk well, pour into a 
hot jug, and serve. If liked stronger, more of the powder 
may be used. 

BROMA. 

One large table-spoonful of broma. 
Four large table-spoonfuls of boiling water. 
One table-spoonful of sugar. 
One pint of milk (hot). 

Place the broma in a sauce-pan, and add the water, stir- 
ring all the time. Add the milk, which should be boiling, 
and then the sugar. Place the pan on the fire, stir until 
the mixture boils, and serve at once. 

CHOCOLATE. 

When properly made, this is a very delicious drink. 
As in the case of tea and coffee, tastes differ as to its 
strength, one ounce of plain chocolate to one quart of 
milk being, however, the proportion generally liked. 
Many prefer the chocolate thick, making it so by using a 
large quantity of chocolate, by putting in some thicken- 
ing substance, such as arrowroot, corn-starch, etc., or by 
mulling the chocolate. The small dasher that comes in 
the regular chocolate pot is called the muller, and is 
worked up and down the same as the dasher of a churn. 
This froths and thickens the chocolate. Should there be 
no muller among the kitchen utensils, the chocolate may 
be made in a double boiler, and then whipped wdth a 
cream whipper or a Dover ^gg beater. Whipped cream 
is often served with chocolate ; it should be whipped and 
drained, and may be served either plain, or slightly sea- 
soned with sugar and vanilla. 



BEVERAGES. 56 1 

PLAIN CHOCOLATE. 

Two squares of chocolate. 
One quart of milk. 
Three table-spoonfuls of sugar. 
Two table-spoonfuls of water. 

Place the milk in a double boiler to heat. Scrape the 
chocolate fine, and put it in a small frying-pan with the 
sugar and water ; set it in a good heat, stir constantly 
until smooth and glossy, and then stir it into the boiling 
milk. Beat with a whisk for three minutes, and serve 
hot. 

A richer drink is made by doubling the amount of 
chocolate mentioned above. A good chocolate is also 
made by using with the same quantity (two squares) a 
pint of milk and one of water. If the chocolate is de- 
sired thick, mix a table-spoonful of arrowroot or corn- 
starch with two table-spoonfuls of cold milk, stir this into 
the boiling milk, and cook for ten minutes before adding 
the dissolved chocolate. Half a tea-spoonful of vanilla 
may be added to the chocolate, if cared for. 

SUMMER DRINKS. 
ROOT-BEER. 

There is no summer beverage, perhaps, that is more 
refreshing than root-beer, and it is very easy to make. 
When the roots had first to be steeped and the strength 
thus obtained, the making of the beer was a laborious 
task ; but now, many root extracts are procurable at 
little cost, and are wholly satisfactory. Hire's extracts 
are iimong the best. 

36 



562 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Fourteen quarts of water. 

Two quarts of sugar. 

Three tea-spoonfuls of extract of ginger. 

One bottle of Hire's Extract. 

One scant pint of baker's yeast. 

Place all these ingredients together in an earthenware 
jar, stir until the sugar is dissolved, and bottle immedi- 
ntely. The corks of the bottles should be tied securely 
down or the contents will be lost. This is the difficult 
part of the work, but if the common beer bottle with pat- 
ent cork is to be had, it will be found most convenient, 
and as they last for years, the expense is not great. Use 
the beer after it has been made one week. 

A recipe for making root-beer may be found in the 
package of any kind of extract sold, but such directions 
can scarcely be depended upon, as each manufacturer en- 
deavors to impress upon the purchaser the large quantity 
of beer that can be made from a single bottle of his ex- 
tract. A tasteless, unsatisfactory drink usually results 
from following these formulas. Set the beer on ice be- 
fore using. 

HOP BEER. 

Two quarts of dry hops. 

Twelve quarts of water. 

One quart of molasses. 

One cake of compressed yeast. 

Three table-spoonfuls of ginger. 

One table-spoonful of wintergreen essence. 

Steep the hops very slowly for two hours in two quarts 
of the water; then strain, and add the rest of the ingredi- 
ents, adding the water first to make the whole tepid be- 
fore adding the yeast cake, which will dissolve in the 



BEVERAGES. 563 

water. Let all stand in an earthen jar for twelve hours ; 
then strain, and bottle tightly. This is a pleasant drink, 
and a tonic as well. 

PHILADELPHIA MEAD. 

One quart of boiling water. 

One-half pint of molasses. 

Two and a-quarter pounds of brown sugar. 

One-half ounce of flavoring extract. 

Two ounces of tartaric acid. 

Put the water, sugar, molasses and acid together ; and 
when the mixture is cold, add the extract, which may be 
the essence of wintergreen or sassafras — or any other 
kind used for such a purpose. Bottle, and set away in a 
cold place. To make the mead, place two table-spoonfuls 
of the syrup in a glass of ice-water, stir until well mixed, 
and add a-quarter of a tea-spoonful of bi-carbonate of soda 
to render the drink effervescent. This is a most refresh- 
ing summer beverage. 

RASPBERRY SHRUB. 

Place any quantity of red raspberries in a stone jar, 
cover them with good cider vinegar, and let the whole 
stand twelve hours ; then strain, and to each pint of the 
juice add a pint of sugar. Boil ten minutes, and bottle 
while hot. In using, add enough to a glass of ice-water 
to suit the taste. 

mother's HARVEST GINGER DRINK. 

One egg. 

One quart of very cold water. 

One-half pint of vinegar. 

One scant table-spoonful of ginger. 

Three table-spoonfuls of sugar. 



564 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Beat the egg well, add to it the sugar and ginger, stir 
until perfectly smooth, and then put in the water. When 
the sugar is dissolved, add the vinegar, using this, how- 
ever, according to its strength, only enough being re- 
quired to give the drink piquancy. 

WINE, AND HOW TO SERVE IT. 

The number of kinds of wine used at dinner varies 
with the taste of the host or hostess. When a great dis- 
play is desired, as many as twelve varieties are served, 
but for ordinary dinners four is generally the limit. 
Indeed, many dinners are now given at which wine is 
omitted altogether, and at simple dinners there is often but 
one wine, which is a choice claret or champagne. When 
three wines are to be served, they usually consist of a fine 
sherry with the soup, claret with the course after the fish, 
and champagne with the roast. If champagne alone is 
selected, it should be served just after the fish. The 
following may serve as a 





WINE MENU. 


^'ith Raw Oysters 


White Wine (Sauterne, Rhine, etc). 


" Soup, ) 
'• Fish, S 


Sherry or Madeira. 


" Meat, 


Champagne. 


Game, 


Claret. 


Dessert, 


Sherry, Port or Burgundy. 



Regarding the temperature at which wines should be 
served : sherry should be thoroughly chilled ; Madeira 
neither warm nor cold, but about the temperature of the 
room ; claret the same as Madeira, and never with ice ; 
and champagne can scarcely be served too cold. 



BEVERAGES. 565 

Wine should be unpacked as soon as possible after de- 
livery, and the bottles laid upon their sides in some place 
in which the changes of temperature will not be felt. 
Red wines, especially clarets, should be kept dry and 
warm, as they are injured more by cold than by heat. 
They are, therefore, better stored elsewhere than in the 
cellar. Champagne and Rhine wines withstand cold bet- 
ter than heat, the latter often causing fermentation. 
Sherry, Maderia and all spirits should be kept warm. 



FRUIT: HOW TO SERVE IT. 

• " Have you apples, good grocer ? ' 
' O yes, ma'm ! how many ? ' " 

Mary Mapes Dodge. 

The arrangement of fresh fruits for the table affords 
play for the most artistic taste. Melons, apples, oranges 
— indeed, all kinds of fruit are appropriate for breakfast. 

APPLES. 

Select for the table only those that are most sightly. 
They should be wiped and brightly polished with a soft 
towel. Serve in a fruit dish or a small, pretty basket. 
Provide silver knives at each plate for cutting the fruit. 

BANANAS. 

These are served whole, the red and yellow being 
mixed. 

PEACHES. 

Rub the down carefully off the peaches, and serve them 
in a pretty basket, with peach leaves peeping through 
them ; or they may be pared, sliced, sprinkled with pow- 
dered siigai- and sent to table immediately the sugar is 
added. Serve thick, sweet cream with peaches when pre- 
pared in this way. 

S66 



FRUIT: HOW TO SERVE IT. 567 

PEARS. 
These are served the same as apples. 

PINEAPPLE. 

Pare the fruit, remove the eyes, and pick it into small 
pieces with a silver fork, beginning at the stump end and 
tearing the fruit from the core. Sprinkle the shredded 
pineapple with powdered sugar, and set it in a cold place 
for at least one hour before it is needed. 

POMEGRANATES. 

Remove the outside skin, and carefully take out the 
seeds, rejecting all the brown skin that divides the sec- 
tions. Heap the seeds in a pretty dish, mix with them 
finely chopped ice, and serve. 

BERRIES. 

Strawberries, raspberries, etc., should be carefully 
picked over a few minutes before serving time, and 
heaped on a glass dish. Pass sugar and cream with the 
berries at table. Berries should never be washed. If 
soiled, they should not be purchased. When berries 
raised in one's own garden become soiled by a heavy 
rain, they may be used, after the needed washing, in mak- 
ing pies or shortcakes, but should never be served alone. 
In France large strawberries are sent to table without 
being hulled ; sugar is placed in the center of the saucer 
passed to each person, and the strawberries are taken by 
the hulls between the thumb and finger, dipped in the 
sugar and so eaten. 



568 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

CURRANTS. 

Stem the currants, and heap them on a dish in rows of 
red and white, placing a border of leaves around the out- 
side. This fruit is also served unstemmed, in which 
case large clusters should be selected. They should be 
rinsed by being dipped repeatedly in cold water, and then 
drained on a sieve. Arrange the clusters on a pretty 
dish, and serve in saucers around a small pyramid of 
powdered sugar, the fruit when eaten being dipped in the 
sugar and eaten from the stem. 

GRAPES. 

If the grapes are at all soiled, or if they are Malagas, 
they should be rinsed in cold water and drained on a 
sieve, after which they may be arranged on a pretty bas- 
ket. Fruit scissors should accompany the basket, with 
which to divide the clusters, if desired. 

ORANGES. 

There are many fancy ways of cutting oranges for serv- 
ing, but these always produce a strained effect that im- 
presses the beholder with an unpleasant hint of vulgar- 
ity. It is, therefore, wiser to serve this fruit plain. At 
table they may be cut crosswise and eaten with a 
spoon, or they may be separated into sections and eaten 
thus from the fingers. 

WATERMELON. 

This should be thoroughly chilled before being used. 
There are many ways of cutting. The melon may be 
simply cut in two, and a slice cut from each convex end 
so that the portions will stand firmly on the platter. In 



FRUIT: HOW TO SERVE IT. 569 

serving the pulp is scooped out with a table-spoon. 
Another method of serving that produces a very attract- 
ive dish consists in peeling the entire melon, leaving only 
the red ball, which is sliced at table. 

CANTALOUPES. 

These are cut in halves and the seeds carefully re- 
moved, half a melon being passed to each person ; and 
they should be very cold for serving. 

They may be eaten with a spoon or fork, and salt 
should be at hand for those who desire it. The half mel- 
ons are often sent to table filled with pounded ice. 

HOW TO ICE FRUITS FOR SERVING. 

Currants, plums, grapes, cherries and many other fruits 
make a most refreshing and appetizing breakfast dish 
when iced. This is done in the following manner : Beat 
the white of an ^,gg just enough to thin it ; dip the fruit in 
the ^gg^ and while still moist, roll it in powdered sugar, 
and place on a sieve to dry. This work, of course, 
should be done the previous day. 

COOKED FRUITS. 

BAKED APPLES, NO. I. 

Use sweet apples for baking. Cut out the blossom 
ends, wash, but do not pare the apples, and place them 
in a large pudding-dish ; pour a cupful of water into the 
dish, cover the latter closely with another dish or a pan, 
set it in a moderate oven, and bake the apples until 
tender. Remove them from the dish, pour the juice over 
them while hot, and repeat this as they cool. Set the 
apples on the ice, and at serving time transfer them to a 



570 thb: fa ttern cook-book. 

glass dish, pouring the juice over them again. Eat with 
powdered sugar and cream. Apples will not brown when 
baked in this way, but will be deliciously flavored. 

BAKED APPLES, NO. 2. 

Select tart apples, and pare them or not, as preferred. 
Extract the cores without breaking the apples, fill the 
cavities thus formed with sugar, sift a little cinnamon on 
lop, and add an-eighth of a tea-spoonful of butter to 
each apple. Place the apples in an earthenware baking- 
dish, cover the bottom with water, and bake until the 
fruit is soft, basting occasionally with the syrup. 

QUINCES. 

These are baked in the same manner as directed in the 
preceding recipe, the spice being omitted. Quinces 
require a long time in baking, and frequent basting. 

APPLE SAUCE. 

Pare, core and quarter tart apples ; place them in a 
granite-ware kettle with enough water to keep them from 
burning, and cook until tender. Turn them into a col- 
ander, pulp them through, and season to taste with sugar 
and a little powdered cinnamon. Return the sauce to the 
kettle, stew it slowly, until the sugar is thoroughly dis- 
solved, and set it on the ice. 

STEWED APPLES. 

Pare, core and quarter lart apples. Make a syrup of a 
cupful of sugar, two-thirds of a cupful of water and a 
little lemon-peel. When the syrup boils, add the apples, 
and cook carefully until they are tender but not broken. 



FRUIT: HOW TO SERVE IT. 57 1 

Remove them carefully, boil the syrup down a little, and 
strain it over the apples. 

SPICED APPLES. 

Place one cupful of sugar and three cupfuls of water in 
a granite-ware pan, and add eight cloves and a three-inch 
piece of cinnamon or a bit of ginger root. Closely cover 
the pan, and boil slowly for fifteen minutes. Wipe a 
number of small, tart apples, extract the stem and blos- 
som ends, and cook the fruit in the syrup until tender, 
taking care that the apples are not broken. Lift them 
out into a dish, boil the syrup until reduced one-third, 
and strain it over the apples. 

SPICED PEARS. 

These are prepared the same as spiced apples ; but if 
the pears are dry and hard, they should be parboiled 
slowly in clear water before being cooked in the syrup, 
as the sugar will harden them, and they will .not be- 
come tender if put into the syrup for the entire cook- 
ing. 

STEWED PRUNES. 

Wash the prunes carefully, and if hard and dry, soak 
them an hour xw cold water before cooking. Place them 
in a porcelain-lined or granite-ware kettle, with boiling 
water to cover. Cover the kettle closely, and boil slowly 
until the prunes are swollen and tender. Then add two 
table-spoonfuls of sugar to every pint of prunes, and boil 
a few minutes longer, but not long enough to break the 
skins. If the prunes lack flavor, add a little lemon-juice. 



5/2 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 



RHUBARB SAUCE. 

Peel the rhubarb, and cut it into inch lengths ; place it 
in a granite-ware stew-pan, and for each quart of rhubarb 
add a tea-cupful of sugar and half a cupful of water. 
Stew slowly until tender. < 

BAKED RHUBARB SAUCE. 

Proceed as in the preceding recipe, and after adding 
the water and sugar, place all in an earthenware baking- 
dish. Cover the dish, and bake slowly for two hours. 
The rhubarb will be found of a rich color when done, and 
it will not have cooked to pieces. 

SAUCE OF DRIED FRUITS. 

This may be made of evaporated apples or peaches or 
of dried berries or plums. If apples or peaches are used, 
wash them carefully in cold water, rubbing them between 
the hands the same as in washing rice. Place the fruit 
in a large bowl, allow a quart of water to each pint of 
fruit, and leave die latter to soak over night. In the 
morning put both fruit and water in a granite-ware sauce- 
pan, add a cupful of sugar, artd, if apples are used, 
also put in the juice of one lemon. Set the pan on the 
back of the range and cook slowly for three hours, not 
stirring the fruit while cooking. When done, turn the 
sauce into a bowl, and set it away to cool. Berries 
require careful washing, and will cook lender much more 
quickly than apples, but they must be soaked over night 
in order to be of proper flavor when done. Plums re- 
quire a large amount of sugar in cooking, the quantity 
varying according to the kind used. 



COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 

" Ol' herbs and other country messes, 
Which the neat-handed Phillis dresses." 

Milton, 

A GOOD nurse is now considered of as much impor- 
tance in the sick-room as a skillful physician. Not the 
least among the nurse's duties is to provide food for the 
sufferer — food that shall be palatable and inviting and at 
the same time nourishing and wholesome. Every mother 
of a family ought to know how to cater to the fitful appe- 
tite and weak digestion of an invalid. The three great 
events of the day to the poor bedridden patient are the 
three meals, and these should be most delicately and 
carefully prepared. 

. The sick person should not be asked what he would 
like to have served, for he will surely sicken of food with 
the effort of selection and will very likely end by saying, 
" Nothing at all 1 " He should be watched carefully and 
the slightest intimation of a desire for any particular 
delicacy should be immediately considered ; and if the 
desired food will not prove injurious, it should be pre- 
pared at once, and without the patient's knowledge, if 
possible, so it may prove a complete surprise. By all 
means make every dish, no matter what its nature, as 

573 



574 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

dainty and attractive looking as may be, and be sure it is 
well cooked. The eye, as well as the palate, of the 
patient is to be considered ; therefore, serve the invalid's 
meals on the choicest ware you possess, accompanied by 
the snowiest of napkins and the brightest of silver. 
Only a little food should be served at a time, for fear of 
frightening away the wavering appetite by the sight of 
much food. A bit of green on a chop or steak will add 
much to the daintiness of the dish. 

All through the present work are given recipes for 
dishes that an invalid may eat with pleasure and safety. 
Among these are nearly all the soups, carefully cooked 
meats and fish, all kinds of bread (if not fresh), cooked 
fruits, simple puddings, in the making of which no fat is 
used, jellies, creams and other light desserts. Re-cooked 
meats, fish or vegetables should never be offered to an 
invalid. Milk is now given in all kinds of illness ; and 
when it does not agree with the patient, a table-spoonful 
of lime-water added to each glassful will generally pre- 
vent any disagreeable consequences. Hot milk is con- 
sidered a good stimulant after much fatigue. It should 
not be allowed to boil, but should just reach that point 
and be served as hot as possible, the cup being heated 
before being used, and the milk being covered with the 
inverted saucer while on its way to the sick-room. The 
patient should sip the milk as hot as can be borne, and 
will often find it as strengthening in its results as wine or 
liquor. 

In preparing any of the grain foods for a sick person, 
extra care should be taken that they are sufficiently well 
cooked, else the result may be hurtful. Of the laxative 
articles of diet, oatmeal is one of the most important. 



COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 575 

It stands before all other grains in point of nutrition. 
Rice is also a very valuable article of food in cases of 
digestive derangement. It nourishes and soothes at the 
same time, and supports the strength most desirably. 
For acute affections of the alimentary canal, rice-water for 
drink and rice jelly for food form a particularly appropri- 
ate diet. These preparations are also advised during 
convalescence from acute fever, and other maladies where 
there is intestinal trouble, especially in the summer com- 
plaints of young children. The value of corn-meal for 
invalids who are thin and low of temperature is but little 
appreciated. Corn-meal contains a large percentage of 
oil, which is heat-producing and nourishing. 

Of meats, none is so juicy and appetizing as a beef- 
steak from a proper cut and properly cooked. Pork and 
veal should never be given in any form to a sick person. 
Some physicians claim that venison is the most easily 
digested and assimilated of meats, and class mutton next 
and beef third; but beef can often be eaten when no 
other variety of meat can even be tasted. 

BEEF-TEA. 

In families where little time is given to preparing 
invalid dishes, the extract of beef is much to be preferred 
in the making of beef-tea. In this way the tea can be 
made as strong or weak as may be desired, and may be got 
ready quickly, hot water and a little salt (generally half a 
tea-spoonful to a cupful of water) being all that is neces- 
sary besides the extract. A physician of large practice 
has said that beef-tea made in this way is much better 
than three-fourths of that prepared direct from the beef, 
and that only with exceptionally good nurses would he 



576 THE FAT TERN COOK-BOOK, 

allow any Other kind to be administered to his patients. 
In making tea from the beef, have tlie meat cut from the 
round and chopped very fine by the butcher. To a 
pound of meat allow a pint of cold water. Put the 
water on the meat in a covered saucepan, and let the 
latter stand for an hour on the back of the stove in a very 
moderate heat, stirring frequently; then place it in a 
stronger heat, letting the liquid heat up very slowl)^, and 
simmer for an hour longer. Add salt to taste, strain and 
set away to cool. When cold remove every particle of 
fat from the top, and heat up only the quantity needed 
for immediate use. When the tea is required m a 
hurry, the grease may be taken off by laying a white 
paper on top of the warm liquid. 

STRONGER BEEF-TEA. 

Place a pound of finely chopped lean beef in a wide- 
mouthed bottle, or in a fruit-jar. Add to it half a pint of 
cold water, and let it stand for an hour ; then place the 
bottle in a sauce-pan of cold water, place the pan on the 
fire, and heat the water slowly almost to the boiling 
point, but be careful not to let it boil. Cook in this 
way for two hours ; then strain, and season with salt to 
taste. 

The thick sediment that falls to the bottom of beef-tea 
after it has stood for a short time, is the most nutritious 
part of the preparation ; yet many ignorantly serve only 
the clearer and poorer part to the patient. It is to keep 
this sediment (the albuminoids) in a safe, digestible con- 
dition that the cook must be careful that the water 
which surrounds the bottle does not boil, as great heat, 
hardens albumen. 



COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 577 

BEEF ESSENCE. 

Have the meat chopped very fine, place it in a fruit-jar, 
and screw on the top of the jar, but not tightly, or the jar 
will burst. Set the jar in a saucepan of cold water, 
heat the water slowly, and keep it near the boiling point 
for four hours. Pour off the juice from the meat, and 
press the latter to extract every drop of the essence, 
using for the purpose a lemon-squeezer, or a meat- 
squeezer that is sold for this particular work. Season 
slightly with salt when serving. This makes an invalu- 
able aliment for persons who are or have been very ill, 
and for weak infants when they need much nourishment 
in small compass. It can be administered like medicine 
by the tea-spoonful at regular intervals. 

BEEF JUICE. 

Choose a thick cut of fresh, juicy and very lean steak. 
Broil it over the coals only long enough to heat it 
throughout ; then cut it into small pieces, place these in a 
lemon squeezer or a meat press and press out the juice 
into a warm dish. Salt slightly in serving. 

MUTTON JUICE. 

Prepare this the same as beef juice, using for the pur- 
pose a thick cut from the leg, and cutting ofif all the fat. 

CHICKEN BROTH. 

Cut up a young fowl, and remove all of the skin and 
fat. Wash the chicken, cut it into small pieces, crack 
the bones well, and place it in a kettle with two quarts of 
cold water. Set the kettle on the fire in a slow heat, 



578 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

and gradually bring the water to the boiling point. 
Skim carefully, and set it back where it will gently sim- 
mer for three hours, keeping the kettle tightly covered. 
Season with salt, strain off the broth, and serve. If sago, 
tapioca or rice is not objectionable to the patient, it may 
be added with advantage. Soak two table-spoonfuls of 
the grain for an hour in cold water, drain, add it to the 
strained broth, and simmer slowly for twenty minutes. 
If the kettle is kept well covered and the cooking is as 
slow as it should be, the liquid will not boil away appre- 
ciably. Should the broth be needed very quickly, the 
rice may be boiled by itself in just enough water to 
keep it from browning, and both water and rice may 
be added to the broth, care being taken that there 
is not enough water with the rice to weaken the 
broth. 

MUTTON BROTH. 

Take a pound of the scraggy part of the neck of mut- 
ton, cut off all the far, and cut the lean into small cubes. 
Add to the meat four table-spoonfuls of pearl barley, and 
three pints of cold water. Heat slowly to the boiling 
point, skim carefully, and set the broth back where it will 
simmer. Place the bones in a pint of cold water, and 
boil them gently for half an hour ; then strain the liquor 
into the broth, and cook the latter two hours longer. 
Season well with salt. The barley may be omitted if not 
cared for, but it adds much to the nutritiousness of the 
broth. 

BEEF BROTH. 

This is made the same as mutton broth. 



COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 



CLAM BROTH. 



579 



For this purpose the clams should be in the shells. 
Scrub a dozen clams with a brush until they are perfectly 
clean, place them in a stew-pan, and add half a pint of 
boiling water. Place the pan on the fire in a moderate 
heat, boil fifteen minutes, and strain the liquor through a 
fine sieve. Should the broth be too fresh (which it sel- 
dom is), add salt. If it is too salt, dilute it with boiling 
water. 

GRUELS. 

Sick persons almost invariably have a natural antip- 
athy against all " sick dishes," and this repugnance is 
perhaps, most decided against gruels of all kinds. When 
gruels are served to an invalid, they should be carefully 
selected with the nature of the complaint in view. Thus, 
in excessive disorder of the bowels, oatmeal gruel should 
never be given, but instead a flour gruel. 

OATMEAL GRUEL, NO. I. 

When much oatmeal gruel is to be required, it will 
prove an economy of time to cook the oatmeal into mush, 
as previously described in this book, making sure that it 
is very thoroughly done. Place it in a bowl, and cover 
tightly. When gruel is needed, place some of the mush 
in a frying-pan, add milk sufficient to thin it to the de- 
sired consistency, and boil slowly for five minutes, stirring 
all the time. Add salt, and serve. 

OATMEAL GRUEL, NO. 2. 

One quart of boiling water. 

One table-spoonful of raw oatmeal. 

One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 



58o THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

Place the water in a frying-pan, add the oatmeal, and 
cook for two hours in a slow heat. Season with the salt, 
and strain or not, as the physician may direct. To 
serve, fill a cup two-thirds full with the hot gruel and fill 
the balance with cream or milk, stirring both well to- 
gether before taking to the patient. 

INDIAN MEAL GRUEL. 

One quart of boiling water. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
Two table-spoonfuls of meal. 
One table-spoonful of flour. 
Four table-spoonfuls of cold water. 

Place the meal and flour in the cold water, rub them 
smooth, and stir the paste into the boiling water. Stir 
well, and when the gruel boils, set it back where it will 
simmer gently for two hours. Add the salt, cook for half 
an hour longer, and serve with cream or milk, the same as 
in the preceding recipe. 

FLOUR GRUEL. 

This is particularly useful in the summer troubles of 
little children. Place a pint of flour in a cloth, tie it 
tightly, put it in a kettle of boiling water, and let it boil 
four or five hours. When the cloth is untied, the gluten 
of the flour will be found in a mass on the outside of the 
ball. Remove this, and the inside will be found a dry 
powder, which is very astringent. Grate from the ball, 
wet the powder in cold milk, and stir it into a pint of 
boiling milk, using as much of the powder as will thicken 
the milk to a palatable porridge. Add salt, and serve 
hot. 



COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 58 I 

FLOUR GRUEL, NO 2. 

One pint of boiling milk. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt 
One table-spoonful of flour. 
Four table-spoonfuls of cold milk. 

Stir ihe cold milk and the flour together, and when they 
are well mixed, add them to the boiling milk. Cook in a 
double boiler for twenty minutes, season with the salt, 
strain, and serve hot. 

This gruel may be made more nutritious by adding 
half a cupful of raisins to the milk when it is put on to 
boil. These also are strained off. 

GRAHAM GRUEL. 

One pint of boiling water. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 
Four table-spoonfuls of cold water. 
One table-spoonful of graham meal. 

Make the same as the preceding, omitting the raisins, 
and boiling for thirty minutes instead of twenty. Serve 
with cream or milk, t^ie same as the flour gruel. 

MILK TOAST. 

Cut the bread in thin slices, pare off the crust, and toast 
carefully until of a golden-brown hue. Butter it lightly 
while hot. Have ready a tea-cupful of milk that has 
been slightly thickened with a tea-spoonful of flour and 
salted to taste ; pour this hot over the toast, and serve at 
once. 

CREAM TOAST. 

This is richer than milk toast, but is often most grate- 



582 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

fully received by the patient already tired of other foods. 
Toast the bread, and butter it the same as directed in the 
preceding recipe. Sprinkle the toast with *a very little 
salt, pour over it three or four tea-spoonfuls of sweet 
cream to every slice, and serve at once. Do not heat 
the cream. The toast, if very hot, will warm it suffi- 
ciently. 

PANADA. 

Sprinkle a tea-spoonful of salt between two large Bos- 
ton, soda or graham crackers or hard pilot biscuit. 
Place the crackers in a bowl, and pour on just enough 
boiling water to soak them well. Set the bowl in a vessel 
of boiling water, and let it remain twenty or thirty min- 
utes, until the crackers are quite clear, but not at all 
l)roken ; then lift them out carefully without breaking, 
and lay them on a hot saucer. Serve very hot with sugar 
and cream. 

WHEY. 

This is made with sweet milk and an acid. Whey con- 
tains the sugar, salt and other saline principles necessary 
for digestion and the repair of the mineral part of the 
body. 

WINE WHEY. 

One cupful of new milk. 
One-half cupful of sherry wine. 
Sugar to sweeten. 

Place the milk in a small saucepan set in another con- 
taining boiling water. When the milk boils, add the 
wine, stir well, and leave in a mild heat until the curd 



COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 585 

and whey separate ; then strain, sweeten the whey, and 
serve. 

Many other acids are used in making whey, and the 
process is the same in each instance as that for making 
wine whey. The proportions are given below. 

LEMON WHEY. 

One cupful of milk. 

Two table-spooufuis of lemon-juice. 

CREAM OF TARTAR WHEY. 

One cupful of milk. 

One level tea-spoonful of cream of laitar. 

ORANGE WHEY. 

Two cupfuls of milk. 
One orange (juice) 

DRINKS FOR THE SICK. 

CURRANT WATER. 

Stir a table-spoonful of currant jelly into a glassful 
of water. Sweeten slightly, if desired. When currant 
juice is obtainable, use three table-spoonfuls of the juice 
and enough water to dilute to the desired acidity. Acid 
drinks are most refreshing in fever. 

APPLE WATER. 

Bake two large, tart apples until tender, sprinkle a 
table-spoonful of sugar over them, return them to the 
oven, and cook until the sugar is slightly brown. Place 
the apples in a bowl, mash them with a spoon, pour a 
pint of boiling water on them, cover, and let them stand 
for an hour ; then strain and cool. 



584 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOf:. 



RICE WATER. 

Wash four table-spoonfuls of rice, add to it three cup- 
fuls of cold water, place it on the fire, and cook for half 
an hour. Season with salt, strain and serve. 

BARLEY WATER. 

Wash five table-spoonfuls of pearl barley, add to it 
four cupfuls of cold water^ place it on the fire, and boil 
slowly for two hours. Strain, and when cold, season 
with a little salt, or, if not hurtful, a little lemon and 
sugar. 

TOAST WATER. 

Toast two or three slices of stale bread until brown all 
through, but not at all scorched. Break the toast in 
small pieces, and put a cupful of it into a pitcher, using 
none of the toast that is not thoroughly brown. Pour on 
the toast three cupfuls of boiling water, let this stand for 
ten minutes, strain, and serve when cold. 

FLAXSEED LEMONADE. 

This is very soothing to patients suffering from colds. 

One quart of boiling water. 

Four table-spoonfuls of whole flaxseed. 

Two lemons. 

Sugar. 

Boil the flaxseed in the water for three hours, letting it 
steep slowly. Strain, sweeten to taste, and add the juice 
of the lemons. If too thick, add a little water. 

HOT LEMONADE. 

This should only be drunk just before retiring ; it is 



COOKERY FOR THE srCK. 585 

excellent for colds, but care should be taken to avoid all 
exposure on the following day. 

One lemon. 

Three-quarters cupful of boiling water. 

Sugar to taste. 

Squeeze the lemon-juice into the water, and add the 
sugar. Serve as hot as possible. 

EGG NOG. 

One egg. 

Milk. 

One table-spoonful of brandy, rum or wine. 

One table-spoonful of sugar. 

Beat the white of the eggs stiff, stir the sugar into it, 
add the yolk of the egg, beat well, and stir in the liquor. 
Place the mixture in a tumbler, and gradually add enough 
milk to fill the glass, stirring all the time. Add a slight 
grating of nutmeg, and serve. 

Wines or liquors should never be given to a patient 
without the advice of the physician, as in fevers they are 
positively harmful. Cases of sudden prostration are, 
however, an exception, a spoonful of liquor often quickly 
relieving the distress. 

MILK PUNCH. 

Sweeten three-quarters of a glassful of milk to taste, 
and add one or two table-spoonfuls of the best brandy. 
Grate a little nutmeg over the top, turn the whole into a 
pint bowl, and beat two minutes with a Dover egg-beater ; 
then pour the punch back into the glass, and serve. 



586 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

RICE JELLV. 

Mix enough water with two table-spoonfuls of rice 
flour to make a thin paste, and then ^dd a coffee-cup- 
ful of boiling water. Sweeten to taste, and boil until the 
rice is transparent. If intended for a person suffering 
from intestinal trouble, boil with it a stick of cinnamon ; 
if for a fever patient, add, when done, several drops of 
lemon-juice. Wet a mould with cold water, pour in the 
jelly, and when cold serve with milk and sugar. 

TO PREPARE AN UNCOOKED EGG. 

Beat the yolk of the egg and a tea-spoonful of sugar 
together, and add to this two tea-spoonfuls of sherry, 
brandy or port, stirring well. Beat the white of the egg 
to a very stiff froth, stir it in, beating well, and serve at 
once. This will quite fill the glass. If wine is not 
desired, nutmeg may be used for flavoring. 

TO PREPARE RAW BEEF. 

Scrape very fine two or three table-spoonfuls of fresh, 
juicy raw beef, season it slightly with pepper and salt, 
spread it between two thin slices of lightly buttered 
bread, and cut for serving into little diamond shapes, two 
and a-half inches long and an inch wide. 

CHIPS FOR DYSPEPTICS. 

One cupful of Arlington wheat meal. 
One cupful of milk. 
One cupful of water. 
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. 

Beat all together until smooth, pour into two well 
buttered dripping-pans, and bake until thoroughly brown. 



COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 



587 



MENUS FOR INVALIDS. 





NO. I. 




BREAKFAST. 


DINNER. 


SUPPER. 


Oatineal Mtish. 


Beefsteak. 


CreajH 7'oust. 


Egg on Toast. 


Baked Potatoes {?n ashed). 


Cup of Tea. 




Toasted Graham Cracker. 


Baked Apple. 




Dessert. 






Gelatitie Pudding. 





NO. 2. 



BREAKFAST. 

Hoviijiy Grits. 
Mutton Chop. 
Bread [not fresh). 
Cup of Hot Milk. 



DINNER. 

Chicken Broth, ivitli Rice. 

Dessert. 
Wine Jelly, with Cracker. 

NO. 3. 



SUPPER. 

Milk Toast. 
Quince Jelly. 



BREAKFAST. 



DINNER, 



SUPPER. 



Crax-ked Wheat Mush. Beef Broth, with Barley. Corn Meal Mtcsh, 

Oysters on 7 oast. Bread {not fresh). 7vith Cream and Stigar. 

Dessert. 

Soft Custard. 



MENUS. 

" Serenely full, the epicure would say, 

' Fate cannot harm me, I have dined to-day.' " 

Sydney Smith. 

The following menus have been prepared for use in 
families where an expensive menu would not be possible. 
Where the cost need not be considered, a caterer is 
generally engaged, or the number of servants is pro- 
portionate to the style of service. 

Any of these menus may readily be served in homes 
where but one maid is employed, if proper forethought 
be given as to time, etc. All the necessary directions for 
preparing the dishes mentioned in these menus will be 
found through this work. 

MENU FOR THANKSGIVING DINNER. 

Oysters 07i the Half-sJicU. 

Noodle Soup. 

Roast Tin-key. Gihlet Gravy. 

Mashed Potatoes. Mashed Turjtips. 

Chicken Pie. 

P/ai/i Celery. Cranberry Sauce. 

Creamed Ouions. 

Lettuce Salad. 

Suet Pudding, with Smm) Sauce. 

Apple Pie. Ptimpkin Pic. Mince Pie. 

Fruit. 

Coffee. 

S88 



MENUS. 

I\IENU FOR CHRISTMAS DINNER. 

Oyster Soup. 
Baked Fish. Tomato Sauce. 

Potato Balls. 
J^oast Goose, ivith Apple Sauce. 
Cauliflower. Mashed Potato. 

Venison Steak. 
Curraiit Jelly. 
Baked Siveet Potatoes. Stewed Celery. 

Lettuce Salad. 
Plum pudding., with Brandy Sauce. 
Ice Cream. Cake. 

Fruit. 
Coffee. 



MENUS FOR A SPRING DAY. 

BREAKFAST. 



589 



Creamed Potatoes. 
Graham Gems. 




Fruit. 
Wheat-Germ Mush. 
Broiled Lamb Chops. 
Hominy Waffles. 
Coffee. 

LUNCHEON. 


Water Cresses. 
Toast. 


Scalloped Oyster 
Canned Peaches 


Tomato Soup. 

s. 

Tea. 


Rolls. 
Cake. 






DINNER. 





Roast Beef, with Yorkshire Pudding. 

Stewed Macaroni. Mashed Potatoes. 

Chocolate Corn-Starch. 

Coflee. 



>90 



THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 



SUPPER. 

Oysters on Toast. 

Tea Biscuit. Stewed Prunes. 

Cookies. 



Chocolate. 



Tea. 



MENUS FOR A SUMMER DAY. 

BREAKFAST. 
Berries. 



Broiled Steak. 


Baked Potatoes. 




Rolls. 




Coffee. 




LUNCHEON. 


Boiled Eggs. 


Toast. 


Sir 


aw berry Shortcake. 




Tea. 




DINNER. 




Clam Soup. 


Baked Veal. 


Potatoes, roasted with the veal. 


Spinach. 


Salsify. 




Tomato Salad. 




Cantaloupes. 




SUPPER. 


Milk Toast. 


Biscuit. 


Berries. 


Cake. 



Tea. 



MENUS FOR AN AUTUMN DAY. 
BREAKFAST. 



Beef on Toast. 



Grapes. 
Oatmeal Mush. 

Coffee. 



Corn Bread. 



MENUS. 



LUNCHEON. 



591 



Grapes. 



Corned-beef Hash. Bread. 

Raw Tomatoes [sliced). 
Peaches. 

Coffee. 
Chocolate. 

DINNER. 

Celery Soup. 
Stewed Chickett. Rice. 

Plain Boiled Potatoes. Stewed Tomatoes. 

Bread Pudding, with Vanilla Sauce. 
Coffee. 

SUPPER. 
Welsh Rarebit. Bread. 

Baked Quinces. Sponge Cake, 

Tea. 

MENUS FOR A WINTER DAY. 

BREAKFAST. 

Corn-meal Mush. 

Broiled Bacon. Creamed Potatoes. 

Buckiuheat Cakes, with Maple Syrup. 

Coffee. 

LUNCHEON. 

Consomme. 
Fried Corn-meal Mush. Baked Sweet Potatoes. 

Apple Sauce. Rolls. 

Chocolate. 

DINNER. 

Roast Turkey, with Cranberry Sauce. 

Mashed Potatoes. Cauliflower. 

Celery Salad. 

Bird's-Nest Pudding. 



592 THE PA TTERX COOK-BOOK. 

SUPPER. 

Cold Tongue. 

Brown Bread, Toasted. Cold Bread. 

Cake. Preserves. 

Tea. 

Cocoa. 

MENUS FOR A LENTEN DAY. 

BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal Mush, with Cream. 

Oysters on Toast. Muffins. 

Coffice. 

LUNCHEON. 

Vermicelli Eggs. Baked Potatoes. 

Rolls. 
Canned Berries. Cake. 

Chocolate. 

DINNER. 

Clam Soup. 

Baked Fish, with Tomato Sauce. 

Plain Celery. Mashed Turnips. 

Boiled Potatoes. 

Gelatine Pudding, with Custard Sauce. 

Coffee. 





SUPPER. 




Potato Salad. 
Cake. 


Milk Toast. 


Bread. 
Cocoa. 


MENU FOR A SMALL COMPANY 


LUNCHEON. 


Sandwiches. 


Raw Oysters. 
Chicken Salad. 


Rolls. 



MENUS. 593 



Preserves. 
Cakes. Ice-Cream. 

Tea. Chocolate. 

MENU FOR A SMALL COMPANY DINNER. 

Oysters on the Half-Shell. 

Consomme. 

Fried Smelts^ with Tartare Sauce. 

Boiled Potato Balls. 

Roast Chicken, with Currant Jelly. 

Sweetbread Croquettes. 

Mashed Potatoes. Boiled Celery. 

Welsh Rarebit. 

Water-cress Salad. 

Custard Souffle^ with Cream Sauce. 

Pruit. 

Coffee. 

TWO MENUS FOR EVENING CARD PARTIES. 
NO. I. 

Bouillon. 
Chicken Salad. Rolls. 

Champagne. 
Olives. Fancy Cakes. 

NO. 2. 

Rolled Chicken Sandwiches. 

Salad. 
Ham [sliced). Wafer Crackers. 

Cream. Cakes. 

Coffee. 

MENU FOR AFTERNOON TEAS. 

Sandwiches. 
Tea. Fancy Cakes. 

Claret Punch. 
38 



594 ^-^^^ ^^ TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

MENU FOR children's BIRTHDAY PARTY. 

Cold Chicken {sliced). Bread. 

Soft Custard. 

Jce-Cream. Fancy Cakes. 

Birthday-Cake {with Nanie and Date). 

Nuts. Fruit. Candy. 

BILL-OF-FARE TABLE. 

Bills of fare can be easily made for the most elaborate 
or the plainest dinner that is to be served in courses, by 
selecting more or less of the dishes mentioned in the fol- 
lowing table, and serving them in the order indicated. 

FIRST COURSE. — Raw oysters, little clams, Roman punch. 

SECOND COURSE. — Soup. 

THIRD COURSE. — Hors-d' oeuvres (Relishes). Cold : sar- 
dines, pickled oysters, cucumbers, radishes, pre- 
served herrings, anchovies, cold slaw. These dishes 
are considered as appetizers and are very properly 
served at this course. It is a French custom. 

FOURTH COURSE. — Fish. Any kind of fish or shell-fish. 

FIFTH COURSE. — Hors-d''(Kuvres. Hot : these are the 
light entrees, such as croquettes, all kinds of hot pat- 
ties (not sweet), sweetbreads, brains, etc. 

SIXTH COURSE. — ReJcves. The substantial dishes, such as 
roast joints of beef, veal, lamb, mutton or venison, 
roast or boiled turkeys or chickens, fillet of beef, 
braised meats, etc. 

SEVENTH COURSE. — Roman punch. 

EIGHTH COURSE. — Entries. Cutlets, all kinds of patties 
(not sweet), sweetbreads, fricassees, scollops, cas- 
seroles, poultry or game en coquiile, croquettes, sal- 



BILL-OF-FARE TABLE. 595 

mis^ blanqtiettes, any of the meats or game made into 

side dishes. 
NINTH COURSE. — Entrements. Dressed vegetables, served 

alone, such as cauliflowers, asparagus, artichokes, 

corn, spinach, boiled celery, string beans, or 

French peas on toast, macaroni, dressed eggs, frit- 
ters. 
TENTH COURSE. — Game of any kind. 
ELEVENTH COURSE. — Salad of any kind. A plain salad 

is often served with the game. 
TWELFTH COURSE. — Chcese, macaroni dressed with 

cheese, cheese omelet, cheese-cakes. Cheese and 

salad are often served together. 
THIRTEENTH COURSE. — EiiU'emets (sweet). Any kind of 

puddings, jellies, sweet fritters, sweet pastries, 

creams, charlottes, etc. 
FOURTEENTH COURSE. — Glaccs. Anything iced, such as 

ice creams, water ices, frozen puddings, etc. 
FIFTEENTH COURSE. — Desscrt. Fruit, nuts and raisins, 

candied fruits, bonbons, cake, etc. 
SIXTEENTH COURSE. — Coffce, and little cakes or biscuits 

(crackers). 



MEASUREMENTS. 

Make it plain upon the tables, 
That he may run that readeth it. 



Scripture. 



4 tea-spoonfuls of liquid, . . . . 

4 table-spoonfuls of liquid, . i gill, J cupful 

I table-spoonful of liquid, . . . . 

1 pint of liquid, .... 

2 gills of liquid, .... 

I kitchen cupful, .... 

I quart of sifted pastry flour. 

1 quart of sifted " new-process " flour, less i gill, 
4 cupfuls of flour, . . . . i 

2 rounded table-spoonfuls of flour, . 

1 rounded table-spoonful of granulated sugar, . 

2 rounded table-spoonfuls of ground spice, 

I heaping table-spoonful of powdered sugar, . 

3 cupfuls of corn-meal, 
i^ pint of corn-meal, 
I cupful of butter, 
I pint of butter, . 
I table-spoonful of butter, 
Butter the size of an egg. 
Butter the size of a walnut, . 

1 solid pint of chopped meat, 
ID eggs, 

2 cupfuls of granulated sugar, 
I pint of granulated sugar, . 



I table-spoonful. 

or I wine-glassful. 

^ ounce. 

I pound. 

I cupful, or I pint. 

i pint. 

I pound. 

I pound. 

quart, or 1 pound. 

I ounce. 

I ounce. 

I ounce. 

I ounce. 

. I pound. 

1 pound. 
. . ^ pound. 

I pound. 
I ounce. 

2 ounces. 
I ounce. 
I pound. 
I pound. 
I pound. 
I pound. 



MEASUREMENTS. 



597 



I pint of brown sugar, . 

2\ cupfuls of powdered sugar, 

I cupful of rice, . . . . 

I cupful of stemmed raisins, 

I cupful of cleaned and dried currants, 

1 cupful of grated bread-crumbs, . 
8 rounded table-spoonfuls of flour, 
8 rounded table-spoonfuls of sugar, 
8 rounded table-spoonfuls of butter, 

2 gills, .... 
I common tumblerful, . 

3 table-spoonfuls of grated chocolate, 

I pint, . . . . . 

I pint, .... 

T ounce, .... 

1 table-spoonful, 
i6 drachms, 

i6 ounces, .... 

4 gills, .... 

2 pints, . • . . 
4 quarts, .... 



1/ UUIUJCS. 

I pound. 


\ pound. 


. 6 ounces. 


6 ounces. 


. 2 ounces. 


I cupful. 


I cupful. 


I cupful. 


I cupful. 


I cupful. 


I ounce. 


1 6 ounces. 


4 gills. 


8 drachms (^ gill). 


\ ounce. 


I ounce. 


I pound. 


. I pint. 


I quart. 


I gallon. 



SMALL ECONOMIES. 

" Waste not — want not." 

" Economy is a poor man's revenue, 
Extravagance — a rich man's ruin." 

There is an old saying (which if rather roughly put, is 
none the less true), that " a woman can throw out with a 
spoon faster than a man can throw in with a shovel." 
While all men do not " throw in with a shovel," in reality, 
there are many women who seem almost to "throw out" 
by the shovelful rather than by the spoonful of this wise 
old proverb. A few " leaks in the kitchen " are here 
mentioned to remind thoughtless housekeepers of the 
many spoonfuls they are continually throwing out. 

In cooking meat the water is often poured out without 
first removing the fat, and quite as frequently the oil 
from the baking-pan is cast away as of no value. 

Scraps of meat are thrown out. 

Cold potatoes are allowed to sour. 

Dried fruits are not looked after and become wormy. 

Vinegar and sauce are left standing in tin vessels. 

Apples are allowed to decay for want of looking over. 

The tea-canister and coffee-box are left open so that 
the tea and coffee lose their strength and flavor. 

Bones of meat and the carcasses of roast fowls are 
598 



SMALL ECONOMJES. 599 

thrown away, when they could be used in making good 
soups. 

Sugar, tea, coffee, rice and flour are carelessly spilled 
in handling. 

Soap is left in the water to waste. 

Dish-towels are used for dish-cloths, napkins for disk- 
towels, and towels for holders. 

Brooms and mops suffer damage from not being hung 
up. 

More coal is burned than is necessary through the 
cook not closing the dampers when the fire is not in use. 

Lights are left burning when not needed. 

Tin dishes are not properly cleaned and dried. 

Good brooms are used to scrub the floors or sweep the 
cellar, when there are plenty of old ones that will 
answer these purposes just as well. 

Silver tjpoons are used in scraping kettles. 

Mustard is left to spoil in the cruse. 

Vinegar is allowed to stand in an open vessel until its 
strength is lost and it becomes dusty, or is filled with 
gnats. 

Pickles become spoiled through the leaking out r'r 
evaporation of the vinegar. 

Pork spoils for want of salt, and beef because the 
brine needs scalding. 

Cheese is permitted to mould, or when dry is thrown 
away. 

Woodenware is put away unscalded and left to warp 
and crack. 

The bread-pan is set away with a quantity of the 
dough still in it. 

Remnants of pie-crust are allowed to harden and ihen 



600 THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK. 

thrown out, instead of being utilized for making a few 
tarts for supper. 

Cold pudding is thrown away because there is not 
enough to " go round." Some fruit should be served 
also, and the pudding steamed, thus producing a good 
dessert. 

Cooked rice is wasted, when a pudding could be made 
of it, or it could be used in soup. 

Vegetables are also thrown away that might be used to 
advantage in soup. 

The scrub-brush is left to rot in a pail of water. 

Pails are scorched on the stove, and tubs and barrels 
are left in the sun to dry and fall apart. 

Potatoes in the cellar commence to grow, and the 
sprouts are not removed until the potatoes are spoiled. 

Dried beef becomes so hard it cannot be cut. 

Servants are allowed to leave a light burning in their 
rooms or in the kitchen, when they are to be out all 
the evening. 

Servants neglect the wash on a windy day, and the 
clothes are whipped to pieces. Fine cambrics are washed 
on the b©ard instead of between the hands, and laces are 
torn in ironing. 

Fruit-stains in the table-cloths are not strained out as 
soon as possible, but are washed into the cloths. 

Clothes-pins that have fallen to the ground are not 
picked up promptly, and so are soon ruined. 

Scraps of soap are wasted instead of being utilized in 
a soap-shaker that costs but a trifle. 

Good sheets are taken for ironing cloths, when coarse, 
unbleached cotton can be had for a few cents a yard. 
Good blankets or quilts also are used for padding the 



SMALL ECONOMIES. 6oi 

ironing board, when an ironing-blanket may be purchased 
at very small cost. 

The egg-beater is left soaking in water, instead of 
being at once cleansed and laid away. 

Kitchen knives and forks are also left in water until 
the handles are loosened if they do not come entirely off. 

HOW TO USE WHAT IS SAVED. 

Save all broken pieces and crusts of bread not fit for 
toast ; they may be used in place of cracker-crumbs for 
dipping oysters, croquettes, etc. (See " How to Dry 
Bread-Crumbs.") Stale bread may also be used in bread 
griddle-cakes, queen of puddings, bread muffins and 
many desserts. 

Muffins left from breakfast may be split in half and 
toasted for luncheon ; or they may be dipped quickly in 
cold water and set in a hot oven for fifteen minutes, when 
they will taste as if newly made. 

Pieces of buns or stale cake make excellent cabinet 
pudding or cake custard pudding. Here also may be 
used the bit of preserves left from last evening's tea. 
There is nothing better for panada than stale rusks, 
toasted. 

All cold mashed potatoes should be saved for cro- 
quettes or potato puff. One cupful will make six cro- 
quettes. 

Cold boiled potatoes make delicious French fried or 
Lyonnaise potatoes and potato salad. 

All small pieces of plain or puff paste trimmed from 
pies or patties may be used for cheese fingers, or with the 
small piece of beefsteak left from breakfast, may be made 
into rissoles^ forming a dainty but inexpensive entree for 



6o2 THE PA TrERN COOK-BOOK. 

luncheon. The unbaked portion of puff paste taken 
from the center of patties, when dried and rolled, makes 
a richer and much better covering for scallops, devils, 
etc., than dried bread-crumbs. 

The green part of celery stalks is not sightly in the 
dish or glass, nor is it fit to eat ; but it is just the thing 
for stewing and for flavoring soups. The roots, when 
boiled, make an excellent salad. 

Save every bone, whether of beef, mutton, veal, ham, 
poultry or game, and also all juices and gravies, for 
making soup. In the soup kettle place the long end of 
the rib roast, which would only become tasteless and 
dry if warmed in the oven ; and also the fat ends of 
French mutton chops. This kettle may be made an inex- 
haustible storehouse, not only for making ordinary soup 
or puree, but also for stock, which is far better than 
water for making sauces and gravies. All the fat from 
the surface of the soup, every piece of suet from chops 
and steaks, in fact, all kinds of fat should be saved, tried 
out, clarified and strained into the dripping pot. If this 
is done, there will always be an abundance of fat for fry- 
ing, and no lard need ever be purchased for this work. 
Doughnuts and fritters are much better fried in drippings 
than in lard, as then so much of the fat is not absorbed. 

The coarse, tough and unprepossessing tops of sirloin 
steaks, and the tough ends of rumps, which cannot pos- 
sibly be eaten when broiled, make most excellent Ham- 
burg steaks. 

Soup meat, nicely chopped and seasoned and freed 
from all tough gristle may be pressed and used for 
luncheon. It needs to be well seasoned, else it will 
prove tasteless. 



SMALL ECONOMIES. 603 

Cold mutton is particularly satisfactory when hashed 
and served on toast, or when stewed with tomatoes. 

Cold roast and boiled chicken or turkey may be made 
into croquettes a la Bechamel^ and if nicely served, will 
never suggest warmed-over meats. 

A cupful of cold boiled rice added to griddle-cakes, 
muffins or waffles makes them lighter and more easy of 
digestion. 

The water in which fresh tongue, mutton or chicken is 
boiled may be used for soup, or may be added to the 
stock-kettle. 

Whites of eggs, saved one or two at a time, and kept 
in a cool place, may be used for angels'-food, white cakes 
or apple snow. 

When the yolks of eggs are to be set aside for any 
length of time, beat them thin, adding a little cold water. 
This will prevent the thick scum forming on the top that 
wastes so much of the egg. If the yolks are to be used 
for salads, however, the water must not be added. 

Cold boiled, baked or broiled fish may be used in cro- 
quettes or salads, a la creme, etc. 

Hard ends of cheese may be grated and saved for 
baking macaroni. From a few of these dried bits a large 
quantity of grated cheese is obtained. 



THINGS WORTH KNOWING. 

" Together let us beat his ample field, 
Try what the open, what the covert yield ; 
Content if hence the unlearned their wants may view, 
The learned reflect on what before they knew." 

Pope. 

HOW TO BLANCH ALMONDS. 

Shell the nuts and pour boiling water upon them. 
Let them stand in the water until the skin may be re- 
moved, then throw them into cold water, rub off the skins 
between the hands, and dry the kernels between towels. 

HOW TO SALT ALMONDS. 

Shell and blanch the almonds, spread them out on a 
bright tin pie-plate, add a piece of butter the size of a 
hickory nut, and set them in a hot oven until they are of 
a golden-brown hue. Remove them from the oven, stir 
well, dredge thickly with salt, and turn them out to cool. 

HOW TO SCRAPE CHOCOLATE. 

If but one square of chocolate is needed, draw a line 
across the two squares at the end of the cake, dividing 
them in halves. With a sharp knife shave off the choco- 
late until the line is reached. In this way there is no 

604 



THINGS WORTH KNOWING. 605 

waste of time or material. If two squares are needed, 
shave off to the dividing line. The pound packages of 
Baker's chocolate contain two cakes, each of which con- 
sists of eight squares; one of these squares is, therefore, an 
ounce. 

HOW TO CLEAN ENGLISH CURRANTS. 

Remove all the pebbles, bits of dirt and long stems 
from the currants, add a pint of flour to two quarts of 
the fruit, and rub the latter well between the hands ; this 
starts the stems and dirt from the currants. Place the 
fruit and flour in a coarse colander, and shake well until 
the flour and stems have passed through ; then place the 
colander and currants in a pan of water, and wash the 
currants thoroughly, leaving them still in the colander. 
Lift the colander and currants together, and change the 
water until it becomes clear. Drain the fruit between 
towels, pick it over carefully, and dry it in a sunny place. 
Do not dry currants in the oven, as the heat hardens 
them. When perfectly dry, put them away in jars. If 
currants are prepared in this way as soon as purchased, 
they will always be ready for use when wanted. 

HOW TO STONE RAISINS. 

Free the raisins from all stems, place them in a bowl, 
cover with boiling water and let them stand two minutes. 
Pour off the water and open the raisins, when the seeds 
can be removed quickly, without the usual stickiness. 

HOW TO BOIL SUGAR. 

The degrees of boiling sugar are variously classified by 
different cooks, some giving six degrees and others as 



6o6 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

many as eight. The French boil sugar for nearly all of 
their desserts. For all practical purposes, however, a 
cook need understand but three degrees. Place a cupful 
of granulated or loaf sugar and half a cupful of water on 
the fire to boil, and when they have boiled fifteen minutes, 
dip the forefinger and thumb in cold water and take up a 
little of the syrup between them. If, upon drawing them 
apart, the syrup forms a thread, it has reached the second 
degree and is at the best stage for use in frozen fruits, 
sherbets and preserves. If, after more boiling, some of 
the syrup being taken up with a spoon and blown hard, 
flies off in tiny bubbles, it is at the fourth degree, called 
the souffle^ about twenty minutes of boiling being required 
to reach this point. This syrup is used for biscuit glad and 
various kinds of creams, and it gives sherbets and fruits 
a much richer flavor than when used at the second degree. 
If the boiling is still continued, and a little syrup on 
being taken up on the point of a stick or skewer and 
dipped in cold water breaks off brittlely, the sixth degree 
has been reached. At this stage the syrup is used for 
icing fruit and cake, the dishes being known as fruit 
glace or gateau glace. The syrup must never be stirred, as 
this would cause it to grain. Great care must be taken 
that it does not boil after coming to the sixth degree, 
because it burns quickly after that point is reached. 

HOW TO MAKE VARIOUS KINDS OF SUGAR. 

If a housekeeper does not like to use extracts, flavored 
sugars may be prepared, and they are then ready for use 
when it is not convenient to obtain the fresh fruits. 
These sugars must be placed in bottles and tightly corked ; 
self-sealing jars are also excellent for this purpose. 



THINGS WORTH KNOWING. 607 

ORANGE. SUGAR. 

Cut off the thin yellow rind of twelve oranges. Spread 
this on a platter, and set it in a warm, dry place to dry. 
When the rind is dry, which will be in about forty-eight 
hours, put half of it in a mortar with a cupful of gran- 
ulated sugar. Pound the mixture to a powder, rub the 
latter through a fine sieve, return the coarse parts left in 
the sieve to the mortar, and pound them again. When 
all is through the sieve, put the balance of the peel and 
another cupful of sugar in the mortar, and proceed as be- 
fore. One table-spoonful of this sugar will flavor a quart 
of custard or cream. 

ORANGE ZEST. 

This is another form of orange sugar, only the oily por- 
tion of the peel being added to the sugar. Rub lumps of 
loaf sugar on the outside of an orange until they are 
coated with the oil from the peel, using enough pressure 
to break the oil sacks. Pound the sugar in a mortar and 
bottle for use. 

LEMON ZEST. 

This is made with lemons in the manner directed for 
orange zest. 

ROSE SUGAR. 

Spread rose-leaves on a flat dish, and dry them in the 
oven. Put a pint of the dried leaves in a mortar with 
half a pint of granulated sugar, pound the whole to a 
powder, rub the latter through a sieve, and bottle tightly. 

VANILLA SUGAR. 

Cut an ounce of vanilla beans into small pieces, mix 



6o8 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK. 

them with a pint of granulated sugar, and pound all in a 
mortar until the mixture is like flour. Sift through a fine 
sieve, pound what will not pass through, and sift until all 
is fine. Allow a table-spoonful of the sugar to a quart 
of cream. 

Another variety of vanilla sugar is made as follows : 
Cut the beans in small pieces, and split them so that the 
seeds may be exposed. Place an ounce of the beans in 
a small jar with a pound of granulated sugar, and seal 
tightly. Sift the sugar as required for use, add more to 
the jar, keeping it closely corked, and use as long as 
there is any flavor in the sugar. 

HOW TO CREAM BUTTER. 

If the butter is hard, the inside of the bowl in which it 
is to be creamed should be warmed. Pour hot water 
into the bowl, let it stand for about a minute, pour it out 
and wipe the bowl. Put in the butter, and cut it in small 
pieces ; work it on the bottom of the bowl until it 
becomes soft, then beat it until it is light and smooth by 
running the spoon rapidly in a circle. After two minutes' 
work the butter should be a light creamy mass, and will 
then be ready for the addition of any other ingredients, 
such as sugar or flour. The work can be done more 
quickly and with less fatigue in this way than if the sugar 
were added at once. The hot water should not stand 
long enough in the bowl to heat the outside, and the 
bowl should never be hot enough to melt the butter. 
Butter should always be prepared thus for cake and for 
pudding sauces. 

HOW TO WASH BUTTER FOR GREASING PANS. 

Rinse a bowl first in hot water and then in cold. Put 



THINGS WORTH KNOWING. 609 

a piece of butter into the bowl, and after covering it with 
cold water, work it with a spoon or with the hands until 
all the salt has been washed out. Pour off the water, 
and press out any water that may remain in the butter. 
Butter thus prepared is used for buttering cake or bread 
pans. 

HOW TO SERVE SARDINES. 

Regular covered dishes for serving sardines may be 
purchased, but if these are not at hand, any small fancy 
dish may be used. Drain the oil from the fish, arrange 
the fish in the dish, and cover them with fresh olive oil or 
not, according to taste. Place a dish of quartered lemons 
near the sardines to be served with them. 

HOW TO ROLL BREAD. 

Cut off all the crust from a loaf of fresh bread. 
Spread a thin layer of butter on one end of the loaf, and 
cut off this end in as thin a slice as possible, using a very 
sharp knife ; then roll the slice up with the buttered side 
inward, and lay it on a napkin. Continue in this way 
until the requisite number of rolls are made, draw the 
napkin firmly around them, pin it, and set the whole in a 
cold place for several hours. Rolled bread is nice to 
serve with raw oysters or at a supper or luncheon party. 

HOW TO DRY BREAD-CRUMBS. 

Place all the crusts and pieces of stale bread in a pan, 
and set the pan in a warm oven or on a shelf over the 
range. When the bread is so dry that it will crumble 
between the fingers, put it in a bag made of strong cloth 
or ticking, and pound the bag with a wooden mallet until 
39 



6 1 THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK. 

the bread is reduced to powder. Sift the powder through 
a line sieve, and put it away in boxes or glass jars. It 
will thus always be ready for breading purposes. 

HOW TO OBTAIN ONION JUICE. 

Pare an onion, and cut it into four pieces. Put one or 
two of the pieces in a wooden lemon-squeezer, and 
squeeze hard. One large onion should yield two table- 
spoonfuls of juice. The squeezer should not be used for 
anything else, as the wood retains both the odor and 
taste of the onion. If the squeezers are not at hand, the 
onions may be grated and the shreds pressed ; but this 
process will not produce so much juice as the former one. 

HOW TO MAKE AND USE A PASTRY BAG. 

Cut a piece of strong cotton cloth twelve inches square 
and fold it from two opposite corners, so as to give it a 
triangular shape. On one side fell the two^ edges to- 
gether, thus making a bag shaped like a " dunce-cup " ; 
and cut off the point at the apex just enough to permit a 
short tin tube, somewhat like a tailor's thimble, to be 
pushed through. The tube for eclairs measures about 
three-quarters of an inch in diameter at the smaller end, 
that for lady fingers three-eighths of an inch, and that for 
meringues and kisses half an inch. The tubes used for 
decorating with frosting are very small. 

Fill the bag with the mixture, gather the cloth together 
at the top with the left hand, hold the point of the tube 
close to the pan on which the work is to be done, and 
press the mixture out with the right hand. It is neces- 
sary to have two or three of these bags if as many tubes 
are needed, for the tubes should fit very closely. 



THINGS WORTH KNOWING. 6l I 

HOW TO KEEP ICE FOR A SICK-ROOM. 

Tie a piece of coarse white flannel over a pitcher, 
leaving a cup-shaped depression in the center of the 
pitcher. Place the broken ice in the flannel, and cover it 
tightly with thicker flannel. The ice may be kept in this 
way all night, and the water that drips from it may be 
poured off as wanted. The water should never be 
allowed to rise to the height of the bag, however. 

HOW TO CHOP SUET. 

Cut the suet into pieces, remove the membrane, 
sprinkle the suet with flour, and chop it in a cool place. 
It will not become soft and sticky when treated in this 
way. 

HOW TO MAKE CLARET VINEGAR. 

Claret-wine when sour, maybe made into excellent vine- 
gar in this way. Place the wine in a small cask or jug, and 
add a pint of " mother" to every four quarts of wine. If 
this is not possible, a twenty-four inch square of common 
brown paper may be used ; but the vinegar will ripen 
less quickly than if the " mother " from other vinegar 
were available. Set the cask in the sun, uncorked ; and 
tie a piece of thin muslin cheese-cloth or tarlatan over the 
cork-opening. It should be ready to use in five or six 
weeks. 

HOW TO MAKE TARRAGON VINEGAR. 

Put two bunches of fresh tarragon in a quart preserv- 
ing jar, fill the jar with white-wine vinegar, cover tightly, 
and set it away in a cool, dark place for two or three 
weeks ; then strain, and bottle. Fill the jar once more 



6l2 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK. 

with tresh vinegar, and set it away. Tliis will be ready 
to use in a month, but it need not be strained until the 
first is used. This vinegar is delicious in any kind of 
salad and in many sauces. 

HOW TO KEEP FOOD IN THE ICE-CHEST. 

Foods that have little odor, and those that absorb 
odors readily should be placed at the bottom of the re- 
frigerator, while all edibles possessing a strong odor 
should be kept on the top shelves. Sour milk or cream 
should be rigidly excluded from the ice-chest, and salad 
dressings, Tartar sauce and celery should be covered 
closely, or they will flavor everything that is shut in with 
them. Pineapples, strawberries and raspberries should 
not be placed in the common ice-chest with milk or 
cream. Butter, milk, cream and other delicate foods 
may be kept in the lower part of refrigerators in which 
there is a circulation of dry air, and the fruits, vegetables, 
etc., with stronger flavors and odors maybe put on the top 
shelves. If this arrangement is carefully observed, 
there will be little danger of one sort of food absorbing 
the odor or flavor of another. A dish of powdered char- 
coal should always be kept on one of the top shelves of 
the refrigerator, as it is an excellent absorbent of odors. 
It should be changed every few days. The refrigerator 
should above all be maintained in a perfect state of 
cleanliness; and with the above precautions there need 
be no trouble in preserving all kinds of food in a properly 
wholesome condition. People who live in flats are espe- 
cially dependent upon this mode of keeping food, and too 
much care and vigilance cannot be exercised to have the 
ice-chest always sweet and healthful. 



THINGS WORTH KNOWING. 613 

HOW TO DISSOLVE GELATINE. 

If gelatine is covered with water and placed on the 
hearth or on the back of the stove, it will melt in fifteen 
minutes ; but it will be strong-flavored and will impart a 
gluey odor to anything in which it is used. But if it is 
soaked in cold water for an hour, or even longer, and 
boiling water or milk is then poured upon it, it will at 
once dissolve and will rarely have an unpleasant taste or 
odor. Here is a good rule for dissolving a box of gela- 
tine : Place the gelatine in a bowl, and pour over it half a 
pint of cold water. Cover the vessel, and let it stand in 
a cool place for at least an hour — two hours will not be 
too long. When ready to use the gelatine, add half a 
pint of boiling water, or the same quantity of boiling 
milk if the latter is to be used. Stir for one minute, when 
the gelatine will be wholly dissolved. 

HOW TO PREPARE MUSTARD FOR TABLE USE. 

Place the dry mustard in a tea-cup, and gradually add 
boiling water sufficient to make a thick paste, stirring 
well until the latter is perfectly smooth. Then put in 
enough strong vinegar to thin the paste to the desired 
consistency, and season with salt. 

LIME-WATER, AND ITS USES. 

Place a piece of unslaked lime in a bottle, and fill 
with cold water. The quantity of lime used is im- 
material, as the water will take up only a certain 
amount. Cork the bottle tightly, and set it in the cellar 
or some cool, dry place ; it will be ready to use in a few 
minutes. Use only the clear portion of the liquid. 



6 14 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK, 

When this has been poured off, more water may be added 
to utilize the rest of the lime. 

The uses of lime-water are many. A tea-spoonful 
diluted with milk or water is a reliable remedy for 
summer troubles in children. Milk that is just turning 
sour may be restored with lime-water, half a tea-cupful 
being allowed to a pint of milk. A small quantity of 
lime-water will prevent the possible souring of cream or 
milk that may be needed for the next day. It will also 
sweeten and purify bottles that have contained milk ; and 
it is sometimes used in bread-sponge to prevent the bread 
becoming sour. Lime-water may be bought very cheaply 
at the drug stores. 

HOW TO DESTROY RED ANTS. 

Tie a little sulphur in a silk bag, and lay it in some 
place which the ants frequent. If a bag is always kept 
in a closet or chest of drawers these receptacles will be 
free from the little pests. A bag of sulphur suspended 
in a bird-cage will keep ants and other insects from the 
bird. 

HOW TO MAKE SOFT SOAP. 

All Strong flavored fats, such as that from mutton, 
goose or turkey, should be fried out and strained while 
still fresh and sweet. Keep this strained fat by itself to 
use when soft soap is to be made. It is a good idea to 
strain it into five-pound lard cans, as it will thus be easy 
to weigh, and measure it at the time of making the soap. 
To make nine gallons of soap put in a large kettle 
a pound can of pure potash and a quart of water. 
Place the kettle on the fire, and boil the water for fifteen 
minutes j then add five pounds of grease, and boil slowly 



THINGS WORTH KNOWING. 615 

for an hour, stirring frequently with a wooden stick. At 
the end of the hour pour the boiling mixture into a large 
soap-tub, and stir into it two gallons of hot water. 
Fifteen minutes afterward add two gallons more of hot 
water, stir well, and add four and a-half gallons of water, 
either hot or cold. Stir the soap three or four times dur- 
ing the next hour ; when it grows cold it will be thick and 
white. 

HOW TO MAKE BAR SOAP. 

Six pounds of washing soda. 
Three pounds of unslaked lime. 
Six gallons of water. 
Six pounds of clear fat. 

Place the soda and the lime together, pour over them 
four gallons of the water, and stir well. Let the liquid 
stand until perfectly clear, then drain it off, place it over 
the fire, add the fat, and boil until the mixture begins to 
harden (which will be in about two hours), stirring almost 
continuously. Meantime, after draining the four gallons 
of water from the lime and soda, add the remaining two 
gallons of water to the sediment, stir well, and when this 
liquid is clear, drain it off also. While the soap is boil- 
ing, thin it with this water, adding a little at a time, as the 
soap puffs up as if to boil over. Try the thickness by 
cooling a little on a plate, and put in a handful of salt 
just before removing the soap from the fire. Wet a tub 
with cold water — to prevent the soap sticking, turn 
the latter in, and when solid, cut it into bars, placing 
them on a board to dry. 



INDEX. 



Air, 13. 

Almonds, 604. 

Ants (red), How to destroy, 614. 

Apple Water, 583. 

Artichokes, 255-256. 

Asparagus, 256-258. 

Au court Bouillon— To boil, 99. 

Bacon, 199. 

With Liver, 164. 
Bain Marie (cut), 35. 
Baking. Time-table for, 69. 
Barley water, 584. 
Basket, Wire (cut), 38. 
Beans. 

Boston Baked, 197-198. 

Lima, 258. 

Creamed, 259. 

String, 259. 

In milk, 259. 
Beef. 

A la mode, 150. 

Balls, 150. 

Braised, 144. 

Broth, 578. 

Cooked (Uses for). 150. 

Corned, 148. 

Dried (creamed), 149. 

Essence, 577. 

Fillet of, 143. 

Hash, 155. 

Heart, 148-149. 

In Tomato, 151. 

Juice, 577. 

Kidney, 156. 

Liver Stew, 155. 

On Toast, 152. 

Pot Roast, 145. 

Raw — How to prepare, 586. 

Roast, with Yorkshire Pudding, 
142. 

Escalloped with Macaroni, 153. 

Soup with Barley. 84. 

Steak, Stuffed, 146. 

Steak, with Onions, 147. 

Tea, 575, 576. 

Tongue, 156. 
Beets, 260. 
Beverages, 554-564. 
Birds (small), 232-234. 
Biscuit, 358-360. 
Blue-Fish, 103. 
Boiling, 62. 



Boiling. 

Time-Table for, 69. 
Boning, 67. 
Bouillon, 80-81. 
Bracket, Soap (cut), 45 
Brains, Scalloped, 169. 
Braising, 65. 
Braising Pan (cut), 38. 
Bread, 332. 

Breakfast, 350. 

Corn, 349. 

Compressed Yeast, 345. 

Dry Yeast, 343. 

Entire Wheat, 346. 

Gems, 362. 

Graham, 347. 

How to roll, 609. 

Kneading, 338. 

Lightning Yeast, 343. 

Moulding, 339. 

Pudding, 441-460. 

Raised Brown, 348. 

Rye, 347. 
Sponge, 336. 

Rye and Indian, 348. 

Stale, 356. 

Stuffing of, loi. 

To warm over stale, 357. 
Bread crumbs — How to dry, 609. 
Broiler, Oyster (cut), 35. 
Broiling, 60. 

Time-Table for, 69. 
Broths, 577-579- 
Brunswick Stew, 236. 
Brussels Sprouts, 260. 
Buns, 353-354- 
Butter, 608. 

Cabbage. 

Creamed, 304. 

Hot Slaw, 262. 

In Milk, 261. 

Salad, 305. 

With Corned Beef, 261. 
Cake. 

Angel's Food, 524. 

Buttermilk, 540. 

Caramel, 543. 

Caroline, 530. 

Chocolate, 535. 

Coffee, Spiced, 524-525,- 

Cocoanut Loaf, 528. 

Cream Loaf, 529. 



6i8 



INDEX. 



Cake. 

Cream Molasses, 539. 

Cream Pudding of, 429. 

Cup, 536. 

Dough, 537. 

Douglass, 534. 

Eggless, 535. 

English White Mountain, 524. 

Fillings for, 544-549- 

Frostings for, 549-553' 

Fruit, 519-521. 

Ginger, 512. 

Gold, 539. 

Graham, 529. 

Jelly, 532-533- 

Johnnie, 377. 

Layer, 540-544. 

Loaf, 528-529. 
Raised, 536. 

Marble, 533. 

Nut, 538-530- 
Pound, 527. 

Shellbark, 530. 

Silver, 539. 

Spiced, 524-526. 

Sponge, 521-523- 

Stale (pudding of), 436. 

White, 526. 

"1,2, 3, 4," 536. 
Cakes. 

Cocoanut Drop, 538. 

Cup, in Gem pans, 531. 

Drop, 532. 

Flannel, 377. 

Griddle, 372-375. 
Calf (cut), so. 
Calf's Head, 167-168. 
Carrots, 262. 
Cauliflower, 263. 
Celery. 

Sauce, 208. 

Soup, 93. 

Stewed, 269. 

Stewed with Brown Sauce, 270. 

Stuffing, 208. 
Charlotte Russe, 486-488. 
Cheese Dishes, 308. 

Au Gratin, 312. 

Cottage, 314. 

Head, 189. 

Puffs, 313. 

Salad, 305. 

Straws, 313. 

Souffle, 311. 

Toasted, 315. 
Chicken. 

A ritalienne, 225. 

Baked— Camping Style, 217. 

Boiled,- 218. 

Boned, 218. 

Boudin a la Reine, 225. 

Braised, 213. 



Chicken. 

Broiled, 216. 

Broth, 577. 

Creamed, 219. 

Croquettes, 220. 

Dishes, 224. 

For Traveller's Lunch, 219. 

Fricassee, 211-213. 

Fried Spring, 214-215. 

Pie, 221-222. 

Pressed, 219. 

Roast, 214. 

Salad, 298. 

Sandwiches, 224. 

Smothered, 215. 
Chips for Dyspeptics, 586. 
Chocolate, 560-561. 

Blancmange, 414. 

Corn-starch, 417. 

How to Scrape, 604. 

Whips, 494. 
Chops, French, 178. 
Chowder. 

Clam, 122. 

Fish, 109. 

Oyster, 121. 
Churn (whip) (cut), 46. 
Clams, 121-122. 
Codfish, 108-iog. 
Coffee, 555-558. 

Mill (cut), 34. 
Cookies, 503. 

Chocolate, 508. 

Cream, 506. 

Ginger, 510-511. 

Jumbles, 508. 

Mother's Jumbles, 508. 

Sour Milk, 507. 

Sugar, 505-506. 

Without Eggs, 507. 
Cook's Knife (cut), 34. 
Cooky Cutters (cut), 33. 
Cottage Cheese, 314-315. 
Corn. 

Bread, 349. 

Canned, 266. 

Dodgers, 376. 

Fritters. 268-269. 

Gems, 363. 

Green, 264-265. 

Muffins, 366. 
Rye, 368. 

Mush, 386. 

Pudding, 266. 

Salad (Fetticus), 268. 

Soup, 92. 

With Tomatoes. 267. 
Corned Beef, 148. 

Hash, 155. 
Corn Meal. 

Griddle Cakes, 373. 

Pone, 377. 



INDEX. 



619 



Corn Meal. 

Puddinff, 424, 

Waffles, 370. 
Corn-starch. 

Blancmange, 421. 
Crabs, 128-130. 
Craw-Fish, 131. 
Cream. 

American, 494. 

Bavarian, 489. 
Apricot, 492. 
Orange, 492. 
Pineapple, 492. 

Cabbage Salad, 304. 

Cookies, 506. 

Filling for Cake, 545. 

For Cake Cream Pudding, 430. 

For Puffs, 453. 

Gravy, 187-196. 

Loaf Cake, 529. 

Molasses Cake, 539, 

Pie, 404. 

Puffs, 4S2. 

Salad Dressing, 296-297. 

Sauce, 137-451-485. 

Spanish, 493. 

Tapioca Pudding, 428. 

Toast, 581. 

Whipped, 471-486. 
Creams, 481-485. 
Croquettes. 

Chicken, 220. 

Fish, 113, 

Mutton, 180. 

Sweetbread, 172. 
Crullers, 382. 
Cucumbers, 270-271. 
Currant W^ater, 483. 
Currants (English)— To clean, 605. 
Cush i la Creme, 112. 
Custard. 

Baked, 483. 

Cocoanut, 407. 

Frozen. 469. 

Lemon Pie, 400. 

Meringue, 482. 

Pie, 406. 

Sauce, 416. 

Soft, 4^48-456-481-483. 

Souffle, 484. 
Cutters (cuts), 33. 

Dandelions, 272. 
Deer (cut), 53. 
Directions (Plain), 57. 
Dish Drainer (cut), 32. 
Doughnuts, 379-381. 
Duck, 228-230. 

To choose, 55. 
Dust-Pan (cut), 44. 

Eels, Fried, 107. 



Egg. 

Balls, 80. 

Nests, 324, 

Sauce, 140-435. 

Uncooked — To prepare, 586. 
Egg-Beater (cut), 36. 
Egg Nogg, 585. 
Egg Plant, 273. 
Egg Whip (cut), 36. 
Eggs- 
Baked, 321-322. 

Boiled, 317. 

Creamed, 323. 

Deviled, 321. 

Fried, 323. 

In Tomato, 320. 

Pickled, 324. 

Poached, 318. 

Scrambled, 319. 

Spanish, 319. 

Stuffed, 325-336. 

To choose (How), 56. 

To Preserve, 317. 

Vermicelli, 320. 
Endive (creamed), 274. 

Farina-Kettle (cut), 41. 
Fat— To clarify, 63. 
Fillings for Cake, 544-549. 
Fish. 

A la Reine, 113. 

Baked, 100. 
With Tomato, 103. 

Boiled, 98. 

Broiled, 107. 

Chowder, 109. 

Croquettes, 113. 

Fillets of, 98. 

Fried, 106. 

Kettle (cut), 36. 

Other modes of dressing, 108. 

Rechauffe, 114. 

Remnants, 112. 

Salad, 301. 

Sauces for, 134. 

Scissors (cut), 46. 

Shell, 115. 

To choose, 55. 

To clean, 96. 

To skin, 97. 
Floating Island, 482. 
Flour, 332-335- 
Fluted Knife (cut), 34. 
Forcemeat Balls, 79. 
Fowls, 230-231. 

To choose, 55- 
Fritters, 382. 

Corn, 268-269. 

Clam, 121. 

Oyster Plant, 286. 

Parsnip, 282. 

Pea, 284. 



620 



COOK BOOK. 



Fritters. 

Plain, 383. 
Potato, 247. 
Salsify, 286. ' 
Sour Milk, 383. 
Frogs' Legs, m. 
Frozen Dishes, 461. 
Frostings for Cake, 549-553. 
Fruit. Cooked. 

Apples, 569-571- 

Pears (spiced), 571. 

Prunes, 571. 

Quinces, 570. 

Rhubarb, 572. 
Frozen. 

Apricots, 480. 

Oranges, 480. 

Peaches, 479. 

Raspberries, 479. 

Strawberries, 479. 
How to ice for serving, 569. 
How to serve. 

Apples, 566. 

Bananas, 566. 

Berries, 567. 

Cantaloupes, 569. 

Currants, 568. 

Grapes, 568. 

Oranges, 568. 

Peaches, 566. 

Pears, 567. 

Pineapple, 567. 

Pomegranate, 567. 

Watermelon, 568. 
Jellies of, 502. 
Pudding, 431. 
Frying, 63. 
Time-Table for, 69. 
Pans (cuts;, 38-39. 

Game, jgg. 

Geese— To choose, 55, 226. 

Gelatine. 

Frosting for Cake, 553. 

How to dissolve, 613. 

Pudding, 415. 
Gems. 

Bread, 362. 

Cornmeal, 363. 

Graham, 361-3620 

Rice, 364. 

Tea, 363. 
Gingerbread, 503-509. 

Soft, 512. 

Spiced, 513. 

Sugar, 513. 
Goose, 226-227. 
Gravy. 

Cream, 196. 

Giblet, 205. 
Griddle Cakes. 

Bread, 372. 



Griddle Cakes. 

Bread and Buckwheat, 375. 

Buckwheat, 374. 

Cornmeal, 373. 

French, 375. 

Graham, 374. 

Rice, 373. 

Sour Milk, 372. 

Sweet Milk, 371. 
Grouse, 231-232. 
Gruels, 579-581. 

Halibut. 

a la Creole, 104. 

Carbonade of, 105, 
Ham. 

Fried, 196. 
With Veal, 159. 

How to boil, 195. 

How to cure, 194, 

How to smoke, 194. 

Omelet, 330. 

Sandwiches, 197, 
Hamburg Steak, 147. 
Hares— To choose, 56. 
Hash, 154-155-165. 
Head-cheese (pork), 189. 
Heat, 13. 
Hoe-Cake, 376. 

Ice— How to keep for sick room, 611. 
Ice Chest— How to keep food in, 612. 

lces,476-477. 
Ice Cream. 

Bisque, 465. 

Chocolate, 466-468. 

Lemon, 464. 

Neapolitan, 468. 

Orange, 465. 

Peach, 466. 

Philadelphia, 463. 

Pistachio, 465. 

Vanilla, 464-467. 

With Arrowroot, 470. 

With Eggs, 467. 

With Gelatine, 470. 

How to freeze, 462. 
Indian Meal (cornmeal). 

Gruel, 580. 

Pudding, 424-457. 

Jellies. 

Fruit, 502. 
Gelatine, 497. 

Kale, 274. 

Kettle, (cut) 36-41-44. 

Kitchen, The, 23. 

Care of, 26. 

Lists, 30-31. 

Lamb, (cut), 52. 

Broiled Breast of, 183. 



INDEX. 



621 



Lamb. 

Chops, 183. 

Roast, 182. 
Lard, 199. 
Larding, (cuts), 65-66. 

Needles (cut), 45. 
Lemonade, 584. 
Lentils, 275. 

Lime Water and its uses, 613. 
Liver. 

Bacon and, 164. 

Beef (Stewed), 155. 

Baked with stuffing, 166. 

Creamed, 165. 

Hash, 165. 
Lobster Salad, 300. 

Sauce, 141. 

M.'\CARONI, 275-276. 

And Escalloped beef, 153. 
Mackerel, no. 

Baked, 106. 

Spiced, 114. 
Measuring Cup (cut), 35. 
Meat, 47. 

For stock, 72. 

Pie, 153- 

Rest (cut), 37. 
Meats. 

Measurements— Table of, 596. 
Menus. 

Afternoon Tea, 593. 

Autumn Day, 590-591. 

Children's Birthday Party, 594. 

Christmas Dinner, 589. 

Company Dinner, 593. 

Company Luncheon, 592. 

Evening Card Party 593. 

Invalid, 587. 

Lenten Day, 592. 

Spring Day, 589, 590. 

Summer Day, 590. 

Table for, 594. 

Thanksgiving Dinner, 588. 

Wine, 564. 

Winter Day, 591, 592. 
Milk. 

Punch, 585. 

Sauce, 415. 

Toast, 581. 
Mince Meat for Pies, 410-412. 
Moulds, (cuts), 40-41. 
Mousses, 472. 
Muffin Pan (cut), 35. 
Muffins, 365-368. 
Mush, 383-386. 
Mushrooms, 277-279. 

Sauce, 144-210. 
Mussels, 131. 
Mustard. 

Cream Sauce of, 141. 

How to prepare for table use, 613. 



Mutton, 173. 

A la Venison, 175. 
And Oyster Sausages, 181. 
Broth, 578. 
Croquettes, 180. 
Cutlets, 179. 
Juice, 577. 
Leg, 174-175- 
Scalloped, 178. 
Shoulder (stuflEed), 176. 
Stew, 177. 

Noodles for Soup, 94. 

Oatmeal. 

Gruel, 579. 

Mush, 384. 
Okra, 279. 
Omelets, 327-331. 
Onions, 280-281. 

Juice of— How to obtain, 610. 
Ox (cut of) 49. 
Oyster. 

And Mutton Sausages, 181. 

Broiler (cut), 35. 

Chowder, 121. 

Omelet, 329. 

Plant (Salsify), 286. 

Sauce, 140. 

Soup, 94. 

Stuffing, 101-206. 
Oysters, 1 15-120. 

To choose, 56. 

Panada, 582. 
Pancakes, 371-375. 
Parsnips, 281-282. 
Partridges, 231-232. 
Paste, Puff. 

American, 391. 
Careme's, 389. 
Chopped, 397. 
How to Bake, 393. 
How to shape for. 
Patties, 395. 

Pies with two crusts, 393. 
Pies with one crust, 394. 
Rissoles, 396. 
Tarts, 395. 
Tart Wells, 395. 
Vol au Vents, 396. 
Jigger (cut). 46. 
Plain with Butter, 396. 
Plain with Lard, 398. 
Pastry, 388. 
Pastry Bag— How to make and use, 

610. 
Peas, 282-284. 
Peppers — Stuffed, 163. 
Pheasants, 231-232. 
Pies. 

Apple, 398. 



622 



COOK BOOK. 



Pies. 

Blackberry, 408. 

Canned Peach Meringue, 405. 

Cherry, 407. 

Chicken, 221-222. 

Chocolate, 405. 

Cocoanui Custard, 407. 

Cream, 404. 

Custard, 406. 

Delicate Puff, 409. 

Huckleberry, 408. 

Lemon, 400. 

Lemon, Custard, 400. 

Lemon, with Bread, 401. 
With Cornstarch, 401. 

Meat, 153. 

Pumpkin, 402. 

Rhubarb (Pie Plant) 409-572. 

Shepherd's, 182. 

Squash, 403. 
Pie-Plant (Rhubarb), 409-572. 
Pig (cut of), 54. 

(Little)— Roasted, 184. 
Pig's Feet. 

Souse of, 188. 

Fried, 189. 
Pigeons, 234. 
Popovers, 365. 
Pork. 

And Beans, 197, 

Chops, 187. 

How to Salt or Pickle, 193. 

Roast, 185-186. 

Sausage, 191-192. 

Salt — Fried with Cream Gravy, 
187. 

Steak, 187. 

Tenderloin, 187. 
Potato. 

Balls, 249. 

Birds roasted in, 234. 

Mayonnaise Dressing, 296. 

Masher (cut of), 32. 

Puff, 252. 

Salad, 303. 

Stuffing, 226. 

Yeast, 342. 
Potatoes. 

Au Gratin, 249. 

Baked, 246. 

Boiled, 245. 

Creamed with Parsley, 248. 

Fried, 252. 
French, 251. 

Fritters, 247. 

Lyonnaise, 253. 

Mashed. 246. 

New — How to cook, 253 

Omelet, 248. 

Princess, 247. 

Roasted under Meat, 250. 

Saratoga, 251. 



Potatoes. 

Stuffed, 250, 

Sweet, 254. 
Poultry, 199. 

Profiteroles for Soup, 79. 
Puddings. 

Apple, 423-438. 
Roly Poly, 437. 
Snow, 431. 
Tapioca, 443. 

Batter, 429. 

Bird's-Nest, 438. 

Black, 443. 

Blackberry, 430. 

Boiled, 422-457-460. 

Bread, 441-460. 

Cake Cream, 429. 

Cherry, 442. 

Chocolate, 439. 
Blanc-mange, 414. 
Corn-starch, 417. 
Custard, 446. 

Christmas Plum, 458. 

Cocoanut, 422. 

Corn-starch (Simple), 421. 

Cottage, 445. 

Cream Puffs, 452. 

Cream Tapioca, 428. 

Currant (simple), 458, 

Curate, 432. 

English Plum, 439. 

Estella, 420. 

Fancy, 444. 

Farina, 433. 

Frozen Rice, 474. 

Fruit (Simple), 431. 

Gelatine, 415. 

Graham, 434. 

How to boil, 456. 

Indian, 424-457. 

Lemon, 419-426. 

Minute, 447. 

Orange, 418. 

Plum, 439-458. 

Puffs with Orange Sauce, 451 

Queen of, 436. 

Rice, 422. 

Silver, 453. 

Sponge Batter, 450. 

Stale Cake, 436. 

Strawberry, 454. 
Puff, 435- 

Suet, 425. 

Swedish, 447. 

Tapioca, 420-428-443. 

Tipsy, 448. 

Webster, 459. 

Yorkshire, 143. 
Pudding Sauces, 415-474. 
Pufif Pie (Delicate), 409. 
Puff Pudding (Strawberry), 435. 
Puffs, 313, 452. 



INDEX. 



623 



Punch. 

Milk, 585. 
Roman, 477. 



Quail, 231-232. 



Rabbits, 235. 

To choose, 56. 
Raisins, How to stone, 605. 
Ramekins, 312. 
Rare-bit, Welsh, 310-31 1. 
Rhubarb (Pie plant), 409-572. 
Rice. 

Baked, 28s. 

Boiled, 284. 

Curry of, 285. 

Gems, 364. 

Griddle Cakes, 373. 

Hash, 154. 

Jelly, 586. 

Muffins, 368. 

Pudding, 422-474. 

Water, 584. 
Roasting, 58. 

Time-table for, 69. 



Salads, 292. 
Fish, 301. 
Lettuce, 304. 
Lobster, 300. 
Potato, 303. 
Sandwiches, 306. 
Tomato, 302. 
Vegetable, 301. 
Notes on, 306. 
Vegetables for, 306. 
Washer (cut of), 39. 
Salad Dressing, 293-298. 
Salmon (canned), iii. 
Salsify (Oyster Plant), 286. 
Sandwiches. 

Chicken, 224. 
Ham, 197. 
Salad, 306. 
Sardines, How to serve, 609. 
Sauces. 

For Fish, 134. 
Bechamel, 140. 
Brown, 136. 
Cream, 137. 
Drawn Butter, 136. 
Egg, 140. 
Kollandaise, 138. 
Lobster, 141. 
Maitre d'Hotel, 139. 
Mustard Cream, 141. 
Oyster, 140. 
Tanare, 139. 
Tomato, 138. 
White, 137. 



Sauces. 

For Meats. 
Apple, 570. 
Brain, 168. 
Caper, 174. 
Celery, 208. 
Chestnut, 207. 
Cranberry, 206. 
Mint, 182. 

Mushroom, 144-210. 
Onion, 157. 
Spanish, 179. 
For Puddings. 
Brandy, 440-448. 
Chocolate, 422. 
Cream, 430-451-485. 
Custard, 416. 
Soft, 448. 
Egg, 435- 
Fancy, 445. 
Hard, 429. 
Lemon, 428. 
Milk, 415. 
Montrose, 474. 
Nutmeg, 447. 
Orange, 451. 
Snow, 426. 
Soft Custard, 448. 
Strawberry, 436. 
Sugar, 444. 
Vanilla, 441. 
Wine, 432-434-460. 
Sausages. 

Casings, 192. 
Mutton and Oyster, 181. 
Pork, 191. 
To Cook, 192. 
Sauteing, 64. 
Scales (cut), 40. 
Scollops, 131. 
Scrapple, 190-191. 
Shad (baked), 103. 
Sheep (cut of), 51. 
Shell-Fish, 115. 
Shrimps, 131. 
Sink Rack (cut), 32. 
Snipe, 232-233. 
Soap. 

Bar, How to make, 615. 
Bracket (cut), 45. 
Shaker (cut), 45. 
Soft, How to make, 614. 
Sorbet, 477. 
Souffle. 

Cheese, 311. 
Custard, 484. 
Orange, 473. 
Soup. 

With Stock, 71-89. 
Without Stock, 90-95. 
Souse, 188. 
Spaghetti, 275. 



624 



COOK BOOK. 



Spinach, 287. 
Squabs, 234. 
Squash, 288. 
Squirrels, 236. 
Steaming, 67. 
Stock, lArn-^q. 
Stuffing. 

Cracker, loi. 

For Calf's Liver, 166. 

For Goose. * 

Oyster, loi. 

Potato, 226. 

For Roast Pig, 185. 

For Turkey. 
Celery, 208. 
Chestnut, 207. 
Oyster, 206. 

Stale Bread, loi. 
Succotash, 266. 
Suet. 

How to chop, 611. 

Pudding, 425. 
Sugar, 605-607. 

Sauce, 444. 
Sweetbreads, 170-172. 

Tapioca, 420-443. 
Tart. 

Almond, 505. 

Apple, 399-504- 

Cocoanut, 505. 

Shells, 503. 

Wells, To shape, 395. 
Tea, 554. 

Terrapin, 132-133- 
Toast, 581-584. 

Beef on, 152. 
Tomato. 

Beef Stewed in, 151. 

Eggs in, ^20. 

Italian, 289. 

Omelet, 329. 

Salad, 302. 

Sauce, 138. 

Soup, 90. 

Spanish, 290. 
Tomatoes. 

Baked, 290. 

Corn with, 267. 

Macaroni with, 276. 

Stewed, 289. 
Tongue (Beef), 156. 
Tripe, 157. 

Trussing Needles (cut), 45. 
Turkey. 

Boiled, 207. 

Braised, 209. 

Chestnut Sauce for, 207. 

Cranberry Sauce for, 206. 

Roast, 204. 

Soup. 88. 

Stuffings for, 206-208. 



Turkey. 

To choose, 54. 

Warmed over, 210. 
Turkish Soup, 85. 
Turnips, 291. 

Utensils for Kitchen, 28. 
Care of, 26. 

Veal. 

And Ham, 158. 
Breast (stuffed), 158. 
Cutlets, 159. 
Fricandeau of, 164. 
Jellied, 162. 
Loaf, 161. 
Roast, 158. 

Stew and Dumplings, 160, 
With Peppers, 163. 
Vegetable Cutters (cuts), 33. 
Vegetables. 

For Salads, 306. 
In Omelet, 329. 
Kind to serve with. 
Beef (corned), 242. 
Beef (fresh), 242. 
Fish, 242. 
Game, 243. 
Lamb, 242. 
Mutton, 242. 
Pork, 243. 
Poultry, 243. 
Veal, 243. 
To choose, 56. 
Venison, 237, 238. 
Vinegar, 611. 
Vol-au-Vents, How to shape, 396. 

Waffles, 368-370. 
Waffle Iron (cut), 37. 
Water, 13. 
Whey. 

Cream of Tartar, 583. 

Lemon, 583. 

Orange, 583. 

Wine, 582. 
Whip Churn (cut), 46. 
Whipped Cream, 471-486. 
Wine. 

How to serve it, 564. 

Jelly, 500- 

Menu, 564. 

Sauce, 432, 434, 460. 

Whey, 582. 
Woodcock, 233. 

Yeast, 335. 

Hop, 340. 

Lightning, 341- 

Raw Potato, 342. 
Yorkshire Pudding, 143, 

ZpST, 607. 



JUN -0 i5'i2 



